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THE COMPLETE 

pr'actsical paglr^ij Gool^, 



THREE PARTS. 




PAET I.— Pies, Tarts, Pastry Cakes, Etc. 

PAET II. — Sweet Sauces and Puddings. 

PART III. — Savory Pies and Puddings — 
CJ^J .^ Patties Vol-au- Vents, Etc. 



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CHICAGO: 

J. Thompson Gill, Manager Confectioner and Baker Publishing Co., 

1889. 



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PREFACE. 

We have aimed in the preparation of this book to 
make it the most complete work ou pastry which it is 
practicable to compile. In doing so we have been 
forced to restrict the scope of the subject exclusively to 
those preparations in which puff and other crusts are 
used; namely pies, tarts, pastry-cakes, puffs, puddings, 
Charlotte Russe, raised pies, patties, vol-au- vents, souffles 
timbales, Fondues, bondins, fritters (beignets) Rissoles, 
etc. To have extended the work beyond these limits 
would have encroached on other subjects. The work 
is particularly complete on the subject of puddings, 
raised pies, patties. With these few words of intro- 
duction we commend it to the attention of the trade, 
trusting it will give as ranch satisfaction as our other 
works on kindred subjects. 



THE COMPLETE 



^mlM pagtsi^ij Cook. 



THREE PARTS. 



PART I. 
Pies, Tarts, Pastry, Cakes, Etc, 



CONTAINING THOSE RECIPES OF MOST USE TO THE BAKEK AND CON 
FECTIONER IN THIS SPECIAL BRANCH OF THE BUSi: 



I 






CHICAGO: 
J. Thompson Gill, Manager Baker and Confectioner Publishing Co. 

1884. 



Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1889, by 

The CoNFECTioNEii AND Baker Publishing Co. 

In the ofiice of Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 

All Rights Reserved. 



CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER I. p^ 

Pastry in General 7 

CHAPTER II. 
Puff Paste 11 

CHAPTER III. 
Pie Crusts and the Manufacture of Pies 19 

CHAPTER IV. 
Various Pastes Used by the Pastry Cook — Patty 

Cases — ^Vol-au-Vent 28 

CHAPTER V. 
Pies and Tarts 36 

CHAPTER VI. 
Pie and Tart Fillings 41 

CHAPTER Vn. 
Pastry Cakes 62 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Pastry Creams — Blanc Mange — Charlotte Russe, Etc . 79 

CHAPTER IX. 
Puffs 87 

CHAPTER X. 
Custards 93 

APPENDIX. 
Miscellaneous Recipes 99 



CHAPTEE I. 
PASTRY IN GENERAL. 

Wherein the Art Consists — Materials Used — Flour — Butter — Lard- 
Suet— Clarified Beef Drippings— Cleanliness — The Mixing and 
KoUing — Puff Paste — Greasing of Tins and Moulds — How to 
Ascertain the Right Heat of the Oven — The Baking of Pastry — 
To Prevent Pastry Being Burnt — To Glaze Pastry — To Ice 
Pastry. 

The art of making puff and other pastes used by the 
pastry cook requires much practice, dexterity and skill; 
it should be handled lightly, made with cool hands, and 
in as cold a place as possible, a marble slab and a glass 
rolling pin being much better for the purpose, than those 
made of wood. In warm weather especially select the 
coolest spot possible for the process. Furthermore, to 
ensure rich paste being light, great expedition must be 
used in the making and baking, for if it stand long be- 
fore being put in the oven, it becomes flat and heavy. 
In making pastry, the following general directions should 
be carefully attended to: 

Flour should be of the best quality, perfectly dry and 
well sifted before being used; if in the least damp, the 
paste made from it will certainly be heavy. 

Butter, unless fresh is used, should be washed from the 
salt, and well squeezed and wrung in a cloth, to get out 
all the water and buttermilk, which, if left in, assist to 
make the paste heavy. 

Lard should be perfectly sweet, which may generally 
be ascertained by its appearance and flavor. 



PASTBY IN GENERAIi. 



Suet should be finely chopped, perfectly free from sldn, 
and quite sweet; during the process of chopping, it 
should be lightly dredged with flour, which prevents the 
pieces from sticking together. Beef suet is considered 
the best; but veal suet, or the outside fat of a loin or 
neck mutton make good crusts; as also the skimmings 
in which a joint of mutton has been boiled, but without 
vegetables. 

Clarified Beef Dipping answers very well for kitchen 
pies, puddings, cakes, or for family pies. A very good 
short crust may be made by mixing with it a small quan- 
tity of moist sugar; but care must be taken to use the 
dripping sparingly, or a very disagreeable flavor will be 
imparted to the paste. 

Strict cleanliness must be observed in pastry making; 
all the utensils used should be perfectly free from dust 
and dirt, and every article required for pastry be kept 
entirely for that purpose. 

In mixing paste, add the water very gradually; work 
the whole together with the knife blade, and knead it 
until perfectly smooth. Those who are inexperienced iu 
pastry making should work the butter in by breaking it 
in small pieces, and covering the paste rolled out. It 
should then be dredged with flour, and the ends folded 
over and rolled out very thin again; this process must 
be repeated until all the butter is used. 

BAKING OF PASTBY. 

The heat of the oven should be regulated according to 
the article to be baked, or those things should be made 
first which will suit the heat of the oven. 

Light paste requires a moderately quick oven, for if 
the oven is too hot, it will be colored before it is properly 



PASTRY IN GENERAL. 



baked, and if it is taken out of the oven, it will fall and 
become flat; a cool oven will not cause it to rise suffi 
ciently, and puff paste baked in an oven with anything 
that causes much steam, will not be so light as otherwise. 

Pastry, when baked suflfieiently, may be easily slid 
about on the tin or pan while hot, and puffs or patties or 
small pies may be lifted from the tin without breaking, 
by putting the fingers round the edges and carefully 
lifting them, which cannot be done unless they are baked 
enough to be taken from the oven. 

Puff Paste requires a brisk oven, but not too hot, or it 
would blacken the crust; on the other hand, if the oveji 
be too slack, the paste will be soddened, and will not 
rise, nor will it have any color. 

Tart tins, dishes for baked puddings, patty tins, etc., 
should all be buttered before the article intended to be 
baked is put in them. 

Things to be baked on sheets should be placed on but- 
tered paper. 

Raised pie paste should have a soaking heat, and paste 
glazed must have rather a slack oven. It is better to 
ice tarts, etc., when they are three parts done. 

To ascertain when the oven is heated to the proper 
degree for puff paste, put a small piece of tiie paste in, 
previous to baking the whole, and then the heat can be 
thus judged of. 

When pastry is not done through, and yet the outside 
is sufficiently brown, cover it over with a piece of white 
paper until thoroughly cooked; this prevents it from 
getting burnt. 

To glaze pastry, which is the usual method adopted 
for meat or raised pies, break an egg, separate the yolk 



10 PASTRY IN GENEEAIi. 

from the white, and beat the former for a short time. 
Then, when the pastry is nearly baked, take it out of the 
oven, brush it over with this beaten yolk of egg-, and put 
it back in the oven to set the glaze. 

To ice pastry, which is the usual method adopted for 
fruit tarts and sweet dishes of pastry, put the white of 
an egg on a plate, and with the blade of a knife beat it 
to a stiff froth. When the pastry is nearly baked, brush 
it over with this, and sift over some powdered sugar; 
put it back in the oven to set the glaze, and in a few 
minutes it will be done. 

Great care should be taken that the paste does not 
catch or burn in the oven which it is very liable to do 
after the icing is laid on. 



CHAPTEE n. 

PUFF PASTE. 

Its Simplicity — What It Is — Precautions Necessary— How to Make 
Puff Paste in Summer — In Cold Weather — How to Eoll it Out 
— How to Proceed if the Butter Breaks Through — To Choose 
Butter for Puff Paste— To Prepare Butter for Puff Paste- How 
to Bake Puff Paste — How to Make it Rise in Leaves or Flakes — 
Feuilletage — Ude's Recipe for Puff Paste — Soyer's Recipe for 
Puff Paste — Puff Paste, American and French Methods — 
Rundell's Recipe for Puff Paste — Puff Paste, an Easy Method — 
Medium Puff Paste— Half Puff Paste. 

The production of a first-class puff paste is commonly 
regarded as a matter of considerable difficulty, but by the 
exercise of proper precautions it is, on the contrary, an 
extremely simple affair. The paste, before being placed in 
the oven, consists of alternate laminae of butter or fat, 
and ordinary flour dough, the latter being, of course, the 
thickness of the two. During the process of baking the 
elastic yapor disengaged, being in part restrained from 
flying off by the buttered surface of the dough, diffuses 
itself between these laminae, causing the mass to swell 
up, and to form an assemblage of thin membranes or 
flakes, each of which is more or less separated from the 
other. Indeed, these flakes resemble those of an ordi- 
nary, rich, unleavened dough when baked; but coDec- 
tively they form a very light crust, possessing an extremely 
inviting aT?pearance and an agreeable flavor. 

The precautions above referred to, are, (1) the use of 
perfectly dry flour, and its conversion into dough with a 
light hand, avoiding unnecessarily working it; (2) the use 
of butter freed from water or buttermilk, and which has 



12 PUFF PASTE. 



been reduced to precisely the same degree of plasticity 
as the dough between which it is to be rolled; (3) con- 
ducting the operation in a cool apartment, and after two 
or three foldings of the dough, exposing it to a rather 
low temperature before proceeding further with the pro- 
csss; (4) £\,nd lastly, baking the paste in a moderately 
smart but not too hot an oven. A piece of puff paste ^ 
inch thick, when baked, will rise to the height of 2 inches, 
thus increasing its volume eight times. 

In summer it is impossible to ensure success in making 
puff paste without the use of ice, it being matter of the 
first necessity that it should be kept cool and firm, two 
]'equisites that tend materially to facilitate the working 
of the paste, and also contribute very considerably to 
give it that very extraordinary degree of elasticity, when 
exposed to the heat of an oven, so well known to expe- 
rienced pastry cooks. To effect this properly a good 
plan is to' procure thin oblong tin pans, of the following 
dimensions: The first 20x16 inches, and 3 inches deep; 
the second 18x14, 2 inches deep; and the third 16x12 
inches, 3 inches deep. Place pounded rough ice in the 
largest; set the second-sized tin on this with the puff 
paste in it; lastly, put the smallest pan, also filled with 
ice on the top of the paste; by this method puff paste 
may be easily made to perfection during the hottest days 
ol summer. 

In extreme cold weather, when butter is very hard, it 
will be necessary to press it in a cloth or on the slab, to 
give it more expansion, and thus facilitate its incorpora- 
tion with the paste. Care must be taken in mixing the 
paste, not to make it too stiff, especially in summer, as 
in that case, it becomes not only troublesome to work, 
but it also effects its elasticity in baking. 



PUFF PASTE. 13 



In winter the precaution of letting the paste lay before 
rolling out a third or fourth time, may be dispensed with, 
if it is required in a hurry, as the butter being firm and 
the weather cold, it will admit of its being done so. 

After giving the paste the second rolling, it is well to 
let it stand for half an hour, after which it will roll 
much easier and more evenly. 

Koll as much as possible, and give as many folds as 
possible, without the butter breaking through the dough. 
Success in making good puff paste depends in a great 
measure upon the ability to use the rolling pin level and 
evenly, and in such a manner as to roll without breaking 
the dough and thus allowing the butter to come through. 

If this accident should however happen, cover the 
paste with a piece of " plain dough," dust it well with 
flour and confinue the rolling. It is a good plan to keep 
a piece of plain dough in reserve for this purpose. 

If the dough is not kneaded firmly in making puff 
paste, the butter will run out in cooking. 

TO CHOOSE BUTTER FOR PUFF PASTE. 

Butter which is short and crumbly when broken, is 
seldom of any use for puff paste; it should be good, firm 
and solid. There are butters which have a soft and oily 
feel, without any degree of toughness when worked or 
moulded; these should not be used, as they are generally 
poor and weak- In summer, however, the softness of 
butter is no criterion, as the heat naturally renders it so. 

TO PREPARE BUTTER FOR PUFF PASTE. 

In summer get a pail of cold spring water, into which 
throw 3 or 4 pounds of pounded ice, previously washed 
and 1 oz powdered salt; break the butter into small 



14 PUFF PASTE. 



pieces, put it into the pail and let it remain 20 minutes, 
until quite firrh and hard; it should then be well moulded 
on a marble slab or paste board, and again immersed in 
ice water until wanted for use, when it should be pressed 
in a clean cloth or napkin. 

If ice cannot be procured, the following mixture may 
be used: 1 oz crystalized muriate of ammonia, 1 oz 
nitrate potash, and 2 ozs sulphate of soda; powder each 
separately and put them into just sufficient water for the 
butter to float freely. When taking the butter out for 
use, wash it well in cold water. 

If the butter is too soft, the dough clings to the slab 
and it will lose its smooth appearance; if the butter is 
too hard, the doagh will not rise any better. 

Do not put the paste into the oven until it is sufficiently 
hot to raise it; for the best prepared paste, if not per- 
fectly baked, will be good for nothing. Brushing the 
paste as often as rolled out, and the pieces of butter 
placed thereon, with the white of an egg, assists it to 
rise in leaves or fiakes. As this is the great beauty of 
puff paste, it is as well to try this method. 

PUFF PASTE— FEUILLET AGE (UDE'S RECIPE.) 
Equal quantities of flour and butter — say 1 lb of each ; 
^ saltspoon of salt; the yolks of 2 eggs; rather more 
than \ pt water. Ascertain that the flour is perfectly 
dry, and sift it; squeeze all the water from the butter, 
and wring it in a clean cloth till there is no moisture re- 
maining. Put the flour on the marble slab; work lightly 
into it 2 ozs of the butter; then make a hole in the centre 
and put therein the yolks of 2 eggs, the salt, and about 
\ pt water (the quantity of this latter ingredient must be 
regulated by the cook, as it is impossible to give the 



PUFF PASTE. 



exact proportion of it); knead up the paste quickly and 
lightly, and when quite smooth, roll it out square to the 
thickness of about -J- inch. Presuming that the butter is 
perfectly free from moisture, and as cool as possible, roll 
it into a ball, and place this ball of butter on the paste; 
fold the paste over the butter all around, and secure it hj 
wrapping it well all over. Flatten the paste by rolling it 
lightly with the rolling pin until it is quite thin, but not 
thin enough to break through; keep the slab and paste 
dredged Hghtly with flour during the process of making 
it. This rolling gives it the Jirst turn. Now fold the 
paste in three, and roll out again; and should the weather 
be warm place it on ice during the several turns, or the 
paste may be entirely spoiled. Roll out the paste again 
twice; put it by to cool; then roll it out twice more, mak- 
ing six turnings in all. Lastly, fold the paste in two and 
it will be ready for use. If pei'fectly baked and well 
made, this crust will be delicious and should rise in the 
oven about 3 or 4 inches. The paste should be made 
rather firm in the first instance, as the ball of butter is 
liable to break through. Great attention must also be 
paid to keeping the butter very cool, as if it is in a liquid 
and soft state, the paste will not answer at all. Should 
the cook be dexterous enough to succeed in making this, 
the paste will have a much better appearance than that 
made by the process of dividing the butter into four 
parts, and placing it over the rolled out paste. The 
above paste is used for vol-au-vents, small articles of 
pastry, and in fact, everything that requires very light 
crust. 

PUFF PASTE— SOYER'S RECIPE. 
Put 1 lb flour upon the pastry slab; make a hole in the 
centre into which put a pinch of salt; mix with very cold 



16 PtiPF PASTE. 



or iced water into a soft, flexible paste with the right 
hand; dredge it off a little with flour until it is cleared 
from the slab, but do not work it any more than possi- 
ble; let it remain 2 or 3 minutes on the slab; then take 
1 lb fresh butter ( from which the buttermilk has been 
squeezed in a cloth and brought to the same consistency 
as the paste) ; place it upon the paste, pressing it out flat 
with the hand; fold over the edge of the paste so as to 
hold the butter, and reduce it with the rolling pin to the 
thickness of about ^ inch, when it will be about 2 feet in 
length; fold over one-third, over which again pass the 
rolling pin; then fold over the other third, thus forming 
a square; place it with the ends, top and bottom towards 
you, shaking a little flour both under and over, and re- 
peat the rolls and turns twice again, as before. Flour a 
baking sheet, put the paste on this, and let it remain on 
ice, or in some cool place for -^ hour; then roll it twice 
more, turning it as before; place it again upon ice for | 
hour; give it two more rolls, making seven in all, when 
it is ready for use when required. 

The yolk of an egg and the juice of a lemon are some- 
times added with the salt. 

PUFF PASTE— AMERICAN AND FRENCH 
METHODS. 

dibs flour (amber white). 4 ft)S butter. 

1 qt cold ice water. 

"Wash the butter well, so as to extract all the salt out 
af it, and to give it a smooth texture; place it on the ice 
to harden; make the flour and water into a paste; roll 
vout thin; place the butter in the centre, and gather the 
paste all around it; take the rolling pin and roll as thin 
as possible in the form of a square; double it up and 



yUPP PASTE. 17 



roll it out again, if the butter does not get greasy and 
stick to the rolling pin; if so, put it into a cloth and 
place in the ice-box until the mass gets hard. It will 
take from one to three hours. Take it out and roll five 
or six times, until the dough is nice and clear, and has a 
fine grain. Place in the ice-box till ready for use; bake 
in a hot oven. 

The French put in the above mixture ^ doz eggs, and 
work them into the paste before putting in the butter. 
This does very well for patties, but is not required for 
pie dough. 

PUFF PASTE— EUNDELL'S KECIPE. 

Take J peck of flour; rub into it 1 Sb of butter, mak- 
ing a " light paste " with cold water, just stiff enough to 
work well; lay it out ^ inch thick; put a layer of butter 
all over it; sprinkle on a little flour, double it up, and 
roll it out again; by repeating this with fresh layers of 
butter three or four times, or oftener, a very light paste 
will be formed. Bake in a moderately quick oven. 

PUFF PASTE— AN EAST METHOD. 
To every pound of flour allow 1 fb of butter, and not 
quite ^ pt water. Work the flour into a smooth paste 
with the water, using a knife to mix it with; roll it out 
to an equal thickness of about an inch; break 4 ozs of 
the butter into small pieces; place it on the paste; sift 
on a little flour; fold, roll out again, and put on another 
4 ozs of butter. Repeat the rolling and buttering until 
the paste has been rolled out four times, or equal quant- 
ities of flour and butter have been used, not omitting 
every time the paste is rolled out, to sprinkle a little 
flour over that and the rolling pin, to keep both from 
2 



18 PUFF PASTE. 



sticking. Handle the paste as little as possible, and do 
not press heavily upon it or the rolling pin. 

PUFF PASTE— MEDIUM. 

To every pound of flour allow 8 ozs of butter, 4 ozs of 
lard, and not quite ^ pt water. This paste may be made 
as ordinary puff-paste, only using less butter, and substi- 
tuting lard for a portion of it. Mix the flour into a 
smooth paste with not quite ^ pt water; roll it out three 
times, the first time covering the paste with butter. 
Keep the rolling pin and paste slightly dredged with 
flour to prevent them from sticking, and it will be ready 
for use. 

HALF PUFF PASTE 

Is puff paste made with half the quantity of butter, and 
giving the paste only 3 or 4 folds. 



CHAPTER III. 

PIE CRUSTS AND THE MANUFACTURE OF PIES. 

Common Crust for Kitchen Pies and Puddings— Common Pie 
Crust (top) — Common Pie Crust (bottom)— Domestic Pie Paste 
(1) — Domestic Pie Paste (2) — Domestic Pie Paste, Without 
Butter or Lard — Lard or Plead Crust — Eaised Pie Crust — 
Raised Pie Crust (French)— Short Crust (1)— Short Crust (2)— 
Short Crust (3)— Soyer's Method with Pies— How to Make 
Pies — General Directions — Use of the Jagger — Suiting the 
Crust to the Flavor of the Fruit Used— How to Make Deep 
Fruit Pies — Eaised Pies. 

COMMON CRUSTS FOR KITCHEN PIES AND 
PUDDINGS. 

To every pound of flour allow 6 ozs clarified beef drip- 
pings, and I pt water. After having clarified the drippings, 
weigh it, and to every pound of flour allow the above 
proportion. With a knife work the flour into a smooth 
paste with the water, rolling it out three times, each 
time placing on the ci'ust 2 ozs of the dripping broken 
into small pieces. If this paste is lightly made, if good 
dripping is used^ and not too much of it, it will be found 
good ; and by the addition of two tablespoonsful of fine 
moist sugar, it may be converted into a common short 
crust for fruit pies. 

COMMON PIE CRUST— TOP. 

16 lbs flour. 9 lbs hard, solid lard. 

3 qts cold water. 

Mix lard and flour lightly together; add water; mix 
lightly, or rather shake it up, as it were, so that the 
dough will sponge well. 



2Q PIE CRUSTS. 



COMMON PIE CRUST— BOTTOM. 

16 lbs flour. 6 flbs hard, cold lard. 

3 qts cold water. 

The scraps left from making the tops of pies are used 
for the bottoms, as far as they will go. 

DOMESTIC PIE PASTE (1). 

2 lbs butter, washed in cool 3 lbs pastry flour (sifted), 
ice water, or 

1^ lbs butter and i lb lard. 

Mix the butter and flour together (not too fine), as it 
is better to have the butter in good sized lumps. Make 
a hollow in the centre and mix in enough ice water to 
make a stiff dough. If not used immediately place in 
a cool situation until wanted. 

DOMESTIC PIE PASTE (2). 

1 fb flour. ^ ft) hard lard. 

Salt to taste. 

Mix as for domestic pie paste (1). This makes a good 
and cheap pie crust, if eaten whilst it is fresh baked, 
but it lacks the flavor of that made with butter. 

DOMESTIC PIE CRUST— WITHOUT BUTTER OR 
LARD. 

Put into a good sized bowl, a cup of thick sweet 
cream; add sifted flour to it by degrees, not stirring it 
about, but chopping it in with the edge of a knife, until 
thick enough to roll without sticking. This paste 
scorches very easily, and must also be baked as soon as 
possible after it is made. 

LARD OR FLEAD CRUST. 

To every pound of flour, allow ^ lb lard or flead,-^ pt water, 
and pinch of salt. Clear the flead from skin, and slice it 



PIE CRUSTS. 21 



into thin flakes; rub it into the floi;r, add the salt, and 
work the whole into a smooth paste with the above pro- 
portion of water; fold the paste over two or three times; 
beat it well with the rolling pin; roll it out, aiid it will 
be ready for use. Tlie crust made from this will be found 
to be extremely light, and may be made into cakes or 
tarts; it may also be very much enriched by adding more 
flead to the same proportion of flour. 

KAISED PIE CRUST (1). 
To every pound of flour allow ^ pt water, 1^ ozs but- 
ter, 1^ ozs lard, and a pinch of salt. Put the water into a 
saucepan, and when it boils add the butter and lard; 
when these are melted, make a hole in the middle of the 
flour; pour in the water gradually, beat it well with a 
wooden spoon, and be particular in not making the paste 
too soft. When it is well mixed, knead it with the hands 
until quite stiff, dredging a little flour over the paste 
and slab to prevent them from sticking; when well 
kneaded, place before the fire, with a cloth covered over 
it, for a few minutes; it will then be more easily worked 
into shape. This paste does not taste so nicely as a 
richer one, but it is worked with greater facility, and 
answers just as well for raised pies, for the crust is 
seldom eaten. 

RAISED PIE CRUST— FRENCH. 

1 lb flour. 4 ozs butter. 

1 teaspoon salt. 1| gills cold water. 

Make a well in the flour and add the other ingredi- 
ents; work into a fine paste in the following manner: 
When the ingredients have been worked into a paste 
this must be brought to the edge of the slab; use the 



22 PIE CRUSTS. 



palms of both hands, applying them alternately with 
great force, to spread and divide the paste into small 
parts; sprinkle a few drops of water over the paste, and 
knead it together; this is called breaking and kneading 
and must be repeated 3 or 4 times. This paste must then 
be gathered up, placed in a clean rubber, and firmly knead- 
ed by pressing upon it with the elbow. It will then be 
ready for use. 

SHORT CRUST (1.) 
To every pound of flour allow 8 ozs of butter, the 
yolks of 2 eggs, 2 ozs sifted sugar, and about | pt milk. 
Rub the butter into the flour, add the sugar, and mix the 
whole as lightly as possible to a smooth paste; work the 
yolks of the eggs well beaten, and the milk. The pro- 
portion of the latter ingredient must be judged by the 
size of the eggs; if they are large, so much will not be 
requhed; and more, if the eggs are smaller. 

SHORT CRUST (2.) 
To every pound of flour allow 2 ozs of sifted sugar, 3 
ozs of butter, and about | pt boiling milk. Crumble 
the butter into the flour as finely as possible; add the 
sugar and work the whole up to a smooth paste with 
the boiling milk. Roll it out thin and bake in a 
moderate oven. 

SHORT CRUST (3.) 
To every pound of flour, allow | or | lb of butter, 1 
tablespoon of sifted sugar, ^ pt water. Rub the butter 
into the flour, after having ascertained that the latter is 
perfectly dry; add the sugar, and mix the whole into a 
stiff paste with about | pt water. Roll it out two or 



MANUFACTURE OF PIES. 23 

three times, folding the jiaste over each time, and it 
will be ready for use. 

This crust is used specially for fruit tarts. 

PIES-SOYER'S METHOD. 

To make a pie to perfection — when the paste (half 
puff or short) is carefully made, and the dish or form 
properly full, throw a little flour on the paste-board; 
take about J lb of paste, which roll with the hand until 
(say) an inch in circumference; moisten the rim of the 
pie dish, and fix the paste equally on it with the thumb. 
When the paste for the cover or upper crust is rolled of 
an equal thickness throughout, and in proportion to the 
contents of the pie (^ inch is about the average), fold 
the cover in two, lay it over one-half of the pie, and 
turn the other half over the remaining part; press it 
slightly with the thumb round the rim; cut the rim of 
the paste neatly, form rather a thick edge, and mark 
this with a knife about every quarter of an inch apart; 
observe to hold the knife in a slanting direction, which 
gives it a neat appearance; lastly make two small holes 
in the top, and egg over the whole with a paste brush, 
or else with a little milk or water. Any small portion 
of paste remaining may be shaped to fanciful designs, 
and r>laced as ornaments on the top. 

For meat pies, observe that if the paste is either too 
thick or too thin, the covering too narrow or too short, 
and requires pulling one way or the other, to make it fit, 
the pie is sure to be imperfect, the cover no longer pro- 
tecting the contents. It is the same with fruit; and if 
the paste happens to be rather rich, it pulls the rim of 
the pie to the dish, soddens the paste, makes it heavy, 
and therefore indigestible as well as unpalatable. 



24 MANUFACTURE OF PIES. 

HOW TO MAKE PIES. 

The making of pies is so simple an operation that few 
words will suffice to give all nteded instructions on the 
matter. The object is to get a good even bottom and a 
sightly, well-fitting top. The methods adopted for 
doing this are varied according to the conveniences at 
hand or the quantity of pies to be made. The general 
principle may be illustrated, by taking a piece of dough 
large enough for the bottoms of two pies; roll it very 
lightly into a long, round shape, and cut into four equal 
parts; roll the bottoms out; place them on the pie tin, 
pressing them smoothly to the form; fill the pies; roll 
out the covers and top the pies, not forgetting to use the 
jagger; mark on the top of the pie the first letter of 
fruit, etc., used in filling the pie Vvith stamps made for 
this purpose ; cut the scrap off with the hand if it is 
common dough, or if puff-paste cut with a very sharp 
kuife; use the scrap for the bottom of the next pie, etc. 
Where, however, pies are made in quantities, the bot- 
toms are placed on by one set of hands, the filHng done 
by a second set, and again a third set put on the covers 
and finish the pies ready to be placed in the oven. The 
object of making holes in the top crust of the pie with 
tlie jigger or pie-mark, is to let the steam escape whicli 
is generated in baking, otherwise the crust would be apt 
to burst open on the side. 

Most workmen trim the pie by using the palms of 
both hands to cut off the superfluous paste, as if they 
were clapping their hands together; this is said to raise 
the crust and give a larger appearance to the pie. 

In conclusion we may add that pies may be made of 
almost any variety of fruit, either green or dried; but 



MANUFACTURE OF PIES. 



very often the flavor is destroyed for want of a trne 
knowledge of making them. A great deal depends on the 
manipulation of the pie dough, as well as on the regula- 
tion of the oven in which it is baked. No matter what 
kind of a covered pie is made, if the dough is not suit- 
able, the flavor of the pie is destroyed. Take, for in- 
stance, a dough made of lard and baked in a slow oven ; 
all the fat goes into the fruit, and consequently spoils 
the flavor of the pie. Lard makes a good crust if 
properly handled, otherwise it will not; but butter is 
always the best. Puff paste makes the finest cover for 
pies of all kinds, especially for apple, peach, or mince 
pies. What is commonly known as domestic pastry 
answers the purpose very well where ice is not plentiful, 
or if wanted for immediate use, and not requiring as 
much butter as puff-paste, it comes cheaper. 

DEEP FRUIT PIES. 
Fruit pies in deep dishes, such as made by the Eng- 
lish and French, are preferable to ordinary fruit pies, be- 
cause more juice and fruit is obtained. The best 
method of making these is as follows: Take a deep, 
oval pie dish, china, not tin; line the edge with paste, 
also about half its depth inside; place a small cup, an 
egg cup is best, and one that will stand a little above 
the edge of the dish; fill the dish with fruit, and add a 
little water if the fruit has not too much juice. Some 
fruits, such as currants and raspberries, have enough 
juice. Also add sugar to taste; cover this with a crust 
of short paste, wash it with water or white of an egg, 
and dust with powdered sugar. Make a few fancy cuts 
on it before baking, and after it is washed and sugared; 
do not cut too deep. These cuts give it a rich looking 



26 MANUFACTURE OF PIES. 

appearance. The cup in the center collects the juice, 
and if the whole of the pie is not eaten at one meal, 
what is left can be supplied with juice by simply litfing 
the cup and allowing the juice to escape. The edge of 
this pie, to be artistic, should be pinched up with the 
finger and thumb, then notched with a knife. If fruit 
is used which gives too much juice, it can be prevented 
from boiling over by mixing a little flour with the sugar, 
about one teaspoonful of flour to twelve of sugar. 

RAISED PIES. 

To form: Take as much pastry as it is intended to use 
for the pie; cut off as much as will be wanted for the 
cover, and form the remainder to the shape of a cone. 
Flatten the sides with the palms of the hands, and 
when they are quite smooth, squeeze the point down a 
little, and press the knuckles of the left hand into the 
middle of the pastry till the inside is hollow. Knead it 
well with the fingers, and be careful to have every part 
of an equal thickness. Fill the pie, roll out the re- 
mainder of the pastry to the size of the top of the pie, 
moisten the edges with a little egg, and lay on the 
cover. Press this down securely, and pinch it with 
pastry pinchers. Make a small hole in the centre of the 
pie, and ornament with pastry leaves, chains, or any 
fanciful designs. Brush all over with egg, and bake in 
a well-heated oven. When the pie is done enough, take 
it out, and pour in a little good gravy, which will jelly 
when cold. If a mould is used, butter it, and line it 
with good firm pastry. Fill the pie, roll out the cover, 
moisten the edges of the pastry, lay it on, and press it 
down securely, so that the edge of the pie may be 
raised slightly above the cover. Pinch the edges with 



MANUFACTURE OF PIES. 27 

the pastry nippers; raako a small bole in the center, and 
lay upon the pie pastry ornaments of any descripticn. 
Brush over with egg, bake in a well- heated oven. Take 
the pie out, draw out the pin which fastens the side of 
the mould, and take it out carefully. If it is not suffi- 
ciently browned, put it into the oven a quarter of an 
hour longer. * Raised pies should be served on a neatly- 
folded napkin, and garnished with parsley. 



CHAPTER lY. 

VAKIOUS PASTES USED BY THE PASTRY COOK- 
PATTY CASES— VOL-AU-VENT. 

Almond Paste — Confectioners' Paste— Croustade Cases — French or 
or Swiss Paste — Gum Paste— Nouilles Paste — Office Paste — 
Patty Cases (1)— Patty Cases (2)~Tart Pa-te -Timbale Paste - 
Vol-An-Vent (1)— Vol-Au-Vent (2). 

ALMOND PASTE. 

1 ft) sweet almonds. | oz gum tragacantli, 

1^ ibs fine white sugar. soaked and squeezed 

through a napkin. 

Blanch the almonds; pound quarter of them with a 
little rose water to prevent oiling; when pounded to a 
paste, pound another quarter, and so on until all are 
done; then put the paste through a hair sieve, and put 
it into a preserving kettle with the sugar; place over a 
slow fire; keep stirring about 25 minutes, clearing it 
from the sides of the pan; when it feels tough take it 
out and put into a mortar with the gum tragacanth; add 
the juice of a lemon and pound until quite cold, when 
it is ready for use. 

If not used directly, roll up in a ball and place upon 
a plate under a basin to keep moist. Stands can be 
made of this paste, or it may be converted into any 
fancy ornament. 

CONFECTIONERS' PASTE. 

1| lbs flour. 2 yolks of eggs. 

10 ozs sifted sugar. 1 gill hot water. 

Spread out the flour with a hollow in the center on 



PASTES USED BY PASTRY COOKS. 29 

the slab, placing the yolks and sugar therein; add half 
the water and work the ingredients together with the 
fingers; when well mixed add the remainder of the 
water, and vigorously work all together into a firm, 
smooth, compact paste; roll this up in a cloth till 
wanted for use. 

CROUSTADE CASES. 

Eoll out I ft) Timbale Paste to the thickness of about 
i inch; take a circular tin cutter about 4 inches in 
diameter, and stamp out a dozen flats; press one of them 
in the end of a circular piece of wood, about 6 inches 
long by 1-^ ins. diameter (or failing this, cut a carrot to 
that shape). Line a dariole mould, previousl}' slightly 
spread with butter, with the paste so prepared; use the 
thumb to make the paste lie evenly in the mould; trim 
away the edges; raise the sides a little; then fill each 
croustade so finished with flour, mixed with | part of 
chopped suet, and bake them of a light color; when done 
empty them and place them on a dish. 

The tops must be stamped out with a small circular 
fluted cutter, from some puff paste, rolled seven times; 
put these on a baking sheet previously wetted to receive 
them; egg them over with a soft brush; place a much 
smaller circular piece of paste on the top of each; egg 
these over, and then bake them of a bright color; when 
done, trim them and place each on top of one of the 
croustades after they are garnished. 

Croustades and patties are garnished with scollops or 
ragouts of chicken, game, all kinds of fillets of fish, the 
the tails of crayfish, prawns, and shrimps, with oysters in 
scollops, or small dice, and also lobsters cut up in small 



30 PASTES USED BY PASTRY COOKS. 

dice. They may be sauced either with Supreme, Becha- 
mel, or Allemande, lobster, oyster or crayfish sauces. 

FRENCH OR SWISS PASTE, 

This paste is made precisely the same as Puif Paste, 
the difference is simply in the cutting and baking. Take 
the paste and roll it out about | inch thick; cut it into 
strips about 3 inches long and -^ inch wide; lay them on 
the baking plate with the cut side uppermost, placing 
them about 3 inches apart; bake in a moderately quick 
oven. While they are baking, instead of rising, they 
will spread out like a fan; take them out and dust over 
them some fine powdered sugar; put them again into 
the oven one minute to melt the sugar, and they will be 
glazed. 

GUM PASTE. 

Dissolve a sufiicient quantity of Gum Tragacanth in 
rose water; make it into a paste with double refined 
sugar, well beaten; color with vegetable colors different 
portions of the paste, according to fancy. Keep moist 
for use. 

NOUILLES PASTE. 

1 lb flour. Water sufficient to melt 

10 yolks of eggs. the salt. 

1 teaspoonful salt. 

Form a hollow in the centre of the flour; put in the 
salt and water, and add the yolks of 8 eggs; work well 
together, at first rubbing between the hands, and then if 
necessary add two more yolks of eggs; finish working 
the paste by pushing it from you with the palms of the 
hands, using considerable pressure; sprinkle a few drops 
of water over it; knead the paste into a ball and keep it 



PATTY CASES. 31 



wrapped up in a cold cloth till wanted for use. This 
paste must be kept very stiff. 

OFFICE PASTE. 

1 ft) flour. 2 whole eggs. 

8 ozs powdered sugar. 2 j^olks. 

Make a well in the flour; add the sugar and eggs; 
work into a stifl' compact body. If the paste should 
appear dry, and present any difiiculty in kneading; 
another yolk or two may be added. 

This paste is mostly used for making ornaments for 
the second course. 

PATTY CASES (1.) 

Make 1 tb Puff Paste, give it seven turns, wetting the 
last turn before folding it; roll the paste out so as to 
leave it scarcely ^ inch thick; about 3 minutes after- 
wards take a fluted circular tin cutter about 2 inches in 
diameter, and use this to stamp out as many patties as 
may be required ; previously to stamping out each patty 
the cutter should be first dipped in very hot water, as 
the heat thus imparted to the cutter causes it to slip 
easily through the paste, and produces the same effect 
as if it w^ere cut with a sharp knife; in consequence of 
there being little or no pressure on the edges, the paste 
has thus a much better chance of rising while baking, 
especially in the summer season. 

As soon as the patties ai-e cut out they should be im- 
mediately placed in rows, on a baking sheet, previously 
wetted over, about 2 inches apart; then egg them over 
with a soft brush dipped in beaten egg, being careful 
not to smear the edges; stamp them in the centre, 
making a slight incision through the surface, with a 



32 PATTY CASES. 



plain circular tin cutter about 1| inches in diameter 
(this cutter must also be dipped in hot water each time 
it is used.) The patties should then be quickly put in 
the oven and baked of a light color; when done, let the 
covers or top be removed; pick out the inner crust care- 
fully with the point of a small knife, and then place the 
patties with their tops on a baking sheet lined with 
clean paj)er. 

PATTY CASES (2). 

These should be made from the best paste. Get three 
cutters of different sizes; roll out the paste about | inch 
thick; cut out as many pieces as required with the large 
cutter; cut out the same quantity of pieces with the 
second sized cutter; and with the third size, cut out 
some small thin pieces to put on the top of these; — then 
with the second cutter, cut the paste partly through, 
what was had from the large cutter, leaving as near as 
possible, an equal edge round out; wash the top with 
egg, and bake them on an iron-plate; — dip each of the 
cutters into boiling water before using, which prevents 
the edge being drawn, and they rise more evenly. 

When baked take out the centre of the large pieces 
with a knife, as far as the mark of the cutter and about 
three parts of the depth of the paste; fill these vacancies 
or holes with some jDrepared patty meat, put the other 
pieces on toj), and send to the table quite hot. 

TART PASTE. 

1 lb flour. 8 ozs butter. 

Rub the flour and butter together till the latter crum- 
bles into pieces; mix into a moderately stiff paste with 
cold water; continue rubbing it with the hands on the 
board or slab until the paste becomes smooth and sup- 



VOL-AU-VENT. 33 



pie, having no degree of toughness, and shines on the 
surface. This paste will take considerably less water to 
mix it in summer than in winter. 

This is used for making raspberry tarts, and all covered 
tarts, and occasionally for large fruit, and other pies. 

TIMBALE PASTE. 

lib flour. ^ Sb butter. 

1 teaspoon salt. Yolks of 2 eggs. 

Nearly ^ pt water. 

Make a well in the centre of the flour; place in this 
the yolks, salt, butter and | of the water; work together 
with the hands into a somewhat firm paste; dip the 
fingers into the flour to separate any of the paste that 
may adhere to them; sprinkle a little water over it, and 
then work the whole together into a ball, and keep it iu 
a cloth till wanted for use. 

VOL-AU-YENT (1). 
A vol-au-vent presents one of the handsomest forms in 
which the remains of dishes can be served. It is gener- 
ally filled with a mince, or ragout, or fricasse — or what- 
ever other name may be chosen — of dressed meat; and 
fifter the vol-au-vent case is made, there is abundant 
opportvmity for the cook to display his skill, either in 
the richness and delicacy, or in the savoury nature of its 
contents. A vol-au-vent can be made successfully only 
with the lighest puff paste. If the puff paste is not 
exceedingly light, the vol-au-vent will not rise properly, 
and so will have a very bad appearance. In I'olling it. 
care must be taken to keep it perfectly square and even 
at the ends, as unless this is done the pastry cannot 
rise evenly. The pasty for a vol-au-vent ought to have 



34 VOLr-AU-VENT. 



sis turns, and five minutes should be allowed to elapse 
between each turn. After it has been turned five times, 
brush the pastry over with lemon juice, and when it is 
doubled for the last time, fold it in such a way that, 
when finished, it will be the exact size of the inside of 
the dish in which it is to be served, and a little more 
than an inch thick. Cut it evenly all around with a 
knife that has been made hot in water, so as not to drag 
the pastry. Place a stew-pan lid, or any other shape of 
a suitable size, within an inch and a half of the outer 
edge of the pasty, and with a sharp knife make an incis- 
ion a quarter of an inch deep all around the edge of the 
lid. Press the inner circle away from the outer one 
with the point of the knife to prevent them closing 
again; this inner cake, when baked, will form the cover 
of the vol-au-vent. Put the vol-au-vent in a well-heated 
oven; in half an hour or three-quarters of an hour, if it 
should appear baked through, take it out of the oven, 
lift up the cover with the point of a knife where it has 
been marked, and scoop out the soft, crummy centre 
without at all injuring the walls of the case. 

VOL-AU-VENT (2). 
Take some paste as for Patty Cases, give it an extra 
half turn; make it about 1| inches thick; cut it out with 
a large oval or round cutter, or in any shape, with a 
a knife, to suit the form and size of the dish; heat the 
knife or cutter in hot water; mark it round about an inch 
from the edge; ornament the centre part by cutting any 
design with a knife; egg the top and bake it in a moder- 
ate heat; — when rather more than three parts done, take 
it out and remove the centre piece, reserving it for a 



VOT.-AU-VENT. 



35 



cover; — scoop out the remaining part of the paste from 
the centre, leaving it ^ inch thick at the bottom; put in 
the oven again to dry or finish baking; it should be 4 or 
5 inches high and quite straight; fill it with any sort of 
ragout or fricasse, as for patties. 

These are occasionally filled with a compote, or a 
made dish of fish, or served as a sweet entree, filled with 
1 cream or fruit. 




OHAPTEE V. 
PIES AND TAETS. 

Distinction of the Terms, Pies, Tarts and Tartlets—English Nom- 
enclature—Stripping—Glazing, etc., — Tarts and Tartlets, (1) 
—Tarts and Tartlets, (2)— Tarts of Puflt Paste— Fruit Pies and 
Tarts— Berry Pies— Fruit Tarts, Soyer's Method— Ornamenta- 
tion — Mosaic Boards — Patty Cases— Vol-au-Vents. 

In England the term pie is applied almost exclusively 
to savory or meat pies, tart being the name for what the 
Americans designate promiscuously by the former word. 
Consequently tartlet corresponds with our term, tart. It 
is well to understand this distinction when referring to 
English works on pastry, in order to avoid mistakes. As 
the general directions for making pies have been given 
before, (Chapter III,) it will be only necessary here to 
note some special memoranda in regard to the manipu- 
lation of both pies and tarts or tartlets, before giving the 
formulae for their fillings. 

1. Stripping. Pies and tarts are sometimes covered 
with a net work of strips of pastry, in place of a full top 
cover, or no cover at all. To do this, after the dough 
covered pie plates have been filled, cut long strips from 
the dough, about the width of the finger; roll this out 
flat, about | inch thick; plait these strips over the filling, 
laying the first one across the centre, the second cross- 
ing the first, then two others from each side of the first, 
and lastly two from each side of the second, keeping 
them about \ inch apart, so that two strips alternately 
cross from side to side, until the whole filling is covered, 
as it were, with a net work. The ends must then be cut 



PIES AND TARTS. 37 



off even at the edge, the ridge of the pie washed with 
egg and then bordered with one of the before men- 
tioned strips; wash the pie with egg, being careful that 
none of it runs off on the sides. 

For tarts, the strips must, of course, be made propor- 
tionately narrower, in order to make a net work on so 
small a surface. 

2. All pies of puff paste must be glazed well with 
pulverized sugar while in the oven, or else covered with 
snow of the white of eggs and sugar, sprinkled with wa- 
ter, and baked in a more than medium hot oven. 

TAETS AND TARTLETS, (1.) 

Tarts or tartlets are generally made in the following 
manner: Have some puff paste rolled out thin; press 
out the slices; put them into appropriate tin moulds, 
and add the filling. Or, after having rolled out the 
dough about ^ inch thick, press out the under crust 
about 3 or 4 inches in diameter; put it on the baking 
pans; wash it with eggs, and put on an edging of about 
^ inch in height; put in the filling and bake as usual. 

TARTS AND TARTLETS, (2.) 
Place a layer of puff paste in the pans, about ^ inch 
thick; make it thinner in the centre than at the edges, 
by pressing the thumb round the centre; trim it off 
close to the pan with a knife; fill with any fruit or filling 
desired; cover with a net-work of strips of paste, by 
stringing them across the tart. 

TARTS OF PUFF PASTE. 

Roll out 1 ib puff paste to the thickness of 1-6 inch; 
with a circular tin cutter about 1| inches in diameter, 
stamp out forty flats; again, use a smaller cutter meas- 



38 PIES AND TARTS. 



uring 1 incli in diameter, to stamp out the centre of 
these; gather up the trimmings, knead them together, 
and roll them out | inch thick, stamping out as many 
flats as there are rings; place them on a wetted baking 
sheet and moisten the edges with a soft brush dipped in 
water; stick the rings of paste on these; shake some su- 
gar over them, and bake of a very light color, (at a mod- 
erate heat.) When the tarts are done, mask the bands 
or rings with a little meringue-paste; dip them either 
in some chopped, or very finely shred pistachios or al- 
monds, and place them in the screen to dry. Previously 
to serving these tartlets, they may be filled either with 
cherries, currants, plums, etc., or any kind of preserved 
or prepared fruits. 

FRUIT PIES AND TARTS. 

When the larger kinds of stone fruits are used for mak- 
ing pies and tarts, such as peaches, api'iots, etc , the stones 
must be taken out and cracked, and the kernels placed 
upon the top of the fruit in the dish. Add a spoonful of 
water, and sugar enough to sweeten; cover with pie paste, 
and finish as usual. For making cherry or damson pies 
follow the same directions, except that the stones should 
not be removed. 

Gooseberries, currants, raspberries, strawberries, etc., 
may be treated in the same way. These fruits may also 
be prepared for tartlets, as well as plums, etc., by boil- 
ing them gently for a few minutes in sufiicient syrup; 
the fruit should then be drained in a sieve, and the syrup 
reduced to one third its original quantity, and kept with 
the fruit in a small basin to fill the tartlets with. 

Berry pies are generally so juicy that they do not cut 
well; to obviate this difficulty, the beaten white of an 



PIES AND TARTS. 39 



egg may be added to thicken the juice; but a better way 
is to add a small quantity of rolled crackers or cracker 
crumbs. A little flour is sometimes sprinkled over the 
berries after filling the pies. 

FRUIT TARTS—SOYER'S METHOD 

They may be made from the trimmings of any puflf 
paste which remains, and should be enveloped in paper, 
and kept in a cold place, or in the flour tub. Make 
them as follows: Have ready twelve or more small tart 
pans, which butter; line each with a bit of puff paste 
cut with a small cutter; force up the edges with the 
thumb and finger; put a small ball (made of flour and 
water) in each, and bake them nicely in a very hot oven; 
when done, take out the ball, (which may be kept for 
other occasions,) from the tarts, and shake powdered 
sugar over the bottom of each; glaze with a salamander, 
turn them over, and shake sugar in the interior, which 
also salamander; fill with any kind of preserve, fruit or 
marmalade. 

They may be made with cream as follows: — Make the 
tarts as before, placing cream instead of the ball of flour, 
made thus; put ^ pt. milk in a stewpan, when boiling, 
add half a stick of vanilla; reduce the milk to half ; in 
another stewpan have the yolks of 2 eggs, ^ oz. pow- 
dered sugar and 1 oz. sifted flour, with a pinch of salt; 
pour in the milk, taking out the vanilla; place over a 
slow fire and keep stirring till it thickens; when cold, 
fill the tartlets; bake nicely in a slow oven; when cold, 
add a little jam; have ready a meringue of 4 eggs; lay 
a teaspoon of each upon them, spreading it quite flat 
with a knife; ornament the top with some of the mix- 
ture, put into a paper cornet; sift sugar over; place in 



40 PIES AND TARTS. 



a slow oven till a light brown color, and the meringue is 
quite crisp; if the oven is too hot, cover with a sheet of 
paper; dress and serve in a pyramid upon a dish. They 
ought to be of a light color. 

ORNAMENTATION. 

Pies, tarts, etc., may be ornamented by means of stars, 
roses, leaves and other fanciful designs, stamped out of 
the paste. Cutters for making a great many patterns 
can be procured from any dealer in bakers' supplies. 
Touch the tops of the designs with the white of egg; sift 
sugar over them, and sprinkle with a very little water; 
put them on a plate and bake them; or the ornaments 
may be baked with the pies. 

MOSAIC BOARDS. 

These boards may be procured of all sizes and pat- 
terns. To cut out impressions from them, it is neces- 
sary to use small circular flats of raised pie- paste, which 
must be placed on the board, and pressed into the de- 
sign, by rolling it with a paste-pin; the superfluous 
paste must then be cut or shaved away, and the mosaic 
of paste that remains in the design shaken out of the 
board. 

PATTY CASES AND VOL-AU-VENTS. 

Both patty cases and vol-au-vents when filled with 
preserved fruits, etc., make a nice species of tart. 

As a general rule the same fillings can be used for 
either pies, tarts or tartlets. 

Directions for using the salamander will be found un- 
der Chapter I, Part II. 



CHAPTEE YI. 

PIE AND TART FILLINGS. 

Adelaide Pie — Apple Pie, Sliced — Apple Pie, Quarters, Eighths, 
etc. — Apple Pie, Stewed (1)— Apple Pie, Stewed (2)— Apple 
Pie, Custard — Apple and Rice Pie (Soyer's)— Apple Pie with 
Quince — Apple Pie, Creamed — Apple Pie, Euylish — Apple 
Tarts (1) — Apple Tarts (2)— Banana Pie — Blackberry Pie — 
Cherry Pie (1)— Cherry Pie (2) — Cherry Pie, Seedless — Cherry 
Tarts — Chocolate Custard Pie— Chocolate Pie — Chocolate 
Tarts — Cocoanut Pie (1) — Cocoaniit Pie (2) — Cocoanut Pie 
(3) — Cranberry Pie — Cracker Pie — Cream Pie — Cream Pie a la 
Meringue — Currant Pie (1)— Currant Pie (2) — Currant Tarts- 
Custard Pie (1)— Custard Pie (2)— Custard Pie (3)— Damson 
Pie — Dewberry Pie — Dried Fruit Pies— Farina Pie — French 
Plum Pie — Gooseberry Pie — Gooseberry Tarts — Grape Pie- 
Huckleberry Pie — Irish Potato Pie — Jelly Pie — Lemon Pie — 
Lemon Pie, Cheap — Lemon Cream Pie — Lemon Marang Pie — 
Marlborough Pie— Mince Pie (1)— Mince Pie (2)— Mince Pie 
(3) — Mince Pie, Common — Mock Apple Pie— Mosaic Tarts — 
Orange Pie — Peach Pie (1) — Peach Pie (2) — Peach Custard 
Pie — Pear Pie — Pine-apple Pie — Plum Pie — Prune Pie- 
Pumpkin Pie (1) — Pumpkin Pie (2) — Pumpkin Pie, Dried — 
Pumpkin Pie, Grated — Punch Pie— Quince Pie — Eaisin Pie — 
Easpberry Pie — Rhubarb Pie (1) — Rhubarb or Pie-Plant Pie 
(2)^Rice Pie — Squash Pie— StrawbsiTy Pie — Strawberry Mer- 
ingue Pie — Sweet Potato Pie — Transparent Pie — Vanilla 
Cream Pie — Vanilla Tarts — Washington Cream Pie, 

ADELAIDE PIE. 

1 oz candied citron peel. 3 eggs. 

1 oz " lemon peel. 3 yolks of eggs. 

1 oz " orange peel. 2 ozs butter. 

^ doz macaroons, beaten 2 ozs sugar. 

fine. 1 tablespoon rice flour. 
1 gill milk. 

Boil the rice flour with the milk until thick; add the 
butter; when cold, add it to the eggs, sugar, and maca- 
roons, which have been beaten ten minutes together; 



42 PIE AND TART FILLINGS. 

lastly add the citron, lemon and orange peels, chopped 
up finely; bake in a deep pie plate Avith top and bottom. 

APPLE PIE— SLICED. 

Pare and slice some sour apples; bottom the pans and 
put the apples therein, with sufficient sugar to sweeten 
them; sprinkle over a little salt and cinnamon; add 1 or 
2 ozs of butter to each pie; add water until the plate is 
two-thirds full; cover with puff paste. Lemon zest may 
be used in place of the cinnamon to flavor. 

Sour apples are the best for pie purposes, and they 
should be sweetened to taste. 

APPLE PIE— QUAETERS, EIGHTHS, ETC. 

Proceed as for sliced apple pie, quartering, etc., the 
apples in place of slicing them. 

APPLE PIE— STEWED (1.) 
Boil one peck of apples very soft in enough water to 

cover them; strain; sweeten with about 6 ibs white 

sugar, and boil about 20 minutes longer, flavoring with 

nutmeg. 
Apples stewed may be used as the basis of a great 

numbei of pies, and flavored with lemon, orange, etc., 

to taste. 

APPLE PIE -STEWED (2.) 
Peel, core, stew and strain the apples; add light brown 

sugar, and ground cinnamon or mace, until sweet enough 

and of the right flavor; stir them up well to get the 

different articles thoroughly mixed. 

APPLE PIE— CUSTARD. 

Proceed as for Peach Custard pie, substituting thick, 
stewed apples. 



PIE AND TART FILLINGS. 43 

APPLE AND EICE PIE— SOYER'S. 
Peel some apples, cutting them in rather thin slices; 
boil ^ ft) rice in water till tender, and put in a sieve; 
when dry put in a basin and add 2 ozs sugar, in which 
a little cinnamon has been mixed, with 2] ozs butter: 
stir lightly; put a layer of rice and a layer of apple 
alternately till full; add a little more sugar on the ap- 
ples; make the border of the dish damp, and put a thin 
rim of paste round it; moisten the rim of paste, place a 
plain pancake over it, fixing it by damping the rim of the 
cake; fix artisticall}' another thin band of the same paste; 
trim neatly, egg over, sprinkle sugar, bake and serve hot. 
In omitting the rice, apple alone may be used, or any 
other fruit introduced. 

APPLE PIE WITH QUINCE. 

Peel the apples, remove the cores, cut them in slices, 
and arrange them neatly in a pie dish; add the quince, 
which must be sliced thin and stewed with a little water, 
sugar, and a bit of butter, in a small stew-pan over a 
slow fire; add sugar enough to sweeten the quantity of 
apples required, and some grated lemon peel; cover the 
pie with puff-paste, first placing a baud of paste upon 
the wetted edge of the dish, and then, after wetting the 
band, place the cover upon its place, and having pressed 
it down all round, cut the edge evenly, and scolloi? it 
with the back of a knife; decorate the top with leaves of 
paste; egg it over and bake; when done, dredge it over 
with sugar, and salamander. 

APPLE PIE— CREAMED. 
Pare, cut in quarters and core a sufficient quantity of 
baking apples; sweeten to taste, adding some grated 



44 PIE AND TART FILLINGS. 

lemon peel, a few cloves, and a small quantity of water; 
put round the dish an edging of puff-paste, to keep the 
apples moist; put into the oven till the apples are 
baked. When the apples are cold, cover them well with 
a cold boiled custard; ornament the top with leaves 
and stars. 

APPLE PIE— ENGLISH. 

Lay some paste crust round the sides of a deep dish ; 
quarter the apples and take out the cores; put in a 
thick layer of apples, cover with half the sugar intended 
for the pie, some lemon peel grated fine and a few cloves; 
put in the rest of the apples and sugar, and add a little 
lemon juice; boil the cores and peelings of the apples in 
water with a blade of mace until they are soft; press it 
through a colander; boil it with sugar, and pour it in 
the pie with a little quince or marmalade; put on the 
upper crust and bake. 

APPLE TAETS (1.) 
EoU out 1 ib tart paste rather thin; stamp out forty 
circular flats, with a fluted cutter suited to the size of 
the tartlets, and use them to line the moulds; fill each 
tartlet with a spoonful of apple marmalade; cover them 
with a mosaic of paste, egg them over, place them on a 
baking sheet, and bake them of a light color; when 
done, shake some fine sugar over them, and use the red- 
hot salamander to give them a glossy appearance. 

APPLE TAETS (2.) 

Line the tart pans, as for Apple Tarts (1); garnish 
them with halves of small apples, previously turned and 
divested of the cores, and afterwards parboiled in a little 



PIE AND TART FILLIXGS. 45 

Syrup in which a piece of a lemon has been squeezed. 
Bake the tarts, and when they are done dihite some 
apricot jam with a httle of the syrup; use this to mask 
the apples in the tarts; place a preserved cherry on the 
centre of each. 

BANANA PIE. 

Slice raw bananas, add butter, sugar, allspice and 
vinegar, or boiled cider or diluted jelly; bake with two 
crusts. In the South they use cold boiled sweet pota- 
toes in this way, and regard the pie as choice. 

BLACKBERRY PIE. 

Bottom the tins and fill with picked blackberries; 
sweeten to taste; cover and bake. 

CHERRY PIE (1.) 
Fill the pies with ripe cherries; sweeten to taste. 

CHERRY PIE (2.) 
Line a pie-tin with rich crust; nearly fill it with the 
carefully seeded fruit, sweeten to taste, and sprinkle 
evenly with a teaspoonful of corn starch or tablespoon- 
lul of flour; add a tablespoonful of butter cut into small 
bits and scattered over the top; wet the edge of the 
crust, put on upper crust, and press the edges closely 
together, taking care to provide holes in the centre for 
the escape of the air. Pies from blackberries, rasp- 
berries, etc., are all made in the same way, regulating 
the quantity of sugar by the tartness of the fruit. 

CHERRY PIE— SEEDLESS. 
Seed 1 peck cherries, adding ^ ft) sugar to every 
pound; bake with or without crust. 



46 PIE AND TART FILLINGS. 

CHEKEY TARTS. 

Stone 2 ibs cherries; put them into a small sugar- 
boiler with I ft) pounded sugar; toss them in this, then 
set them on the fire, and allow to boil for about five 
minutes; the cherries must be strained on a sieve, and 
the syrup reduced about one-third, and then added to 
the cherries, and kept in a small basin. 

Line 2 doz small tart-pans with short paste, or tart 
paste (the flats being stamped out with a fluted cutter) ; 
knead as many small pieces of paste as there are tarts, 
and after dipping them in flour, press one of them into 
each of the tarts; place them on a baking sheet, and put 
them in the oven (moderately heated) to be baked of a 
light color. When they are nearly done, withdraw 
them, and take out the pieces of paste; shake some 
fine sugar over them, and glaze them with the red-hot 
salamander. Just before serving the tarts, fill them 
with the cherries. 

CHOCOLATE CUSTARD PIE. 
Simmer 1 quart of milk; add | lb of chocolate, 
grated; sweeten to taste; incorporate 4 well-beaten eggs. 
Line deep pie-pans with rich paste; pour in the mixture; 
bake in moderately quick oven. 

CHOCOLATE PIE. 
To one pint of boiling milk add one tablespoonful of 
rice flour, the yolks of five eggs, well-beaten, a little 
salt, and one pint of cream; sugar to taste; | ft) of 
grated chocolate, well dried; let them boil, stirring; let 
it cool. Line deep buttered tins, pour in the mixture 
and bake. 



PIE AND TART FILLINGS. 47 

CHOCOLATE TAETS. 

Rub 4 fillets of chocolate smooth in milk; heat over 
the fire; add corn starch and milk, and stir until suffi- 
ciently thick. When cold, beat in the yolks of 1 or 2 
doz eggs; sweeten to taste, and flavor with vanilla; bake 
in open shells lining patty pans. Cover with a merin- 
gue made of the whites of the eggs and powdered 
sugar, when they are nearly done, and let them color 
slightly; serve cold. 

COCOANUT PIE (1.) 

1 qt milk. 3 ozs flour. 

I lb sugar. ^ ib grated cocoanut. 

8 eggs. 

Mix eggs, milk, sugar and flour; add ^ ib cocoanut; 
fill and bake without top. After it has baked have 4 
eggs well-beaten; add while beating 1 oz sugar; add ^ 
lb more cocoanut to the whites with 4 ozs sugar; mix 
lightly and spread on the pies; set in the oven to brown. 

COCOANUT PIE (2.) 

Proceed as for Custard pie, adding | cupful of grated 
cocoanut, and leaving out | pt milk. 

COCOANUT PIE (3.) 

1 ft) flour. 8 eggs. 

2 lbs sugar. | pt milk. 

•^ ft> butter. Meatof2cocoanuts,grated 

These pies should be made on very small plates or 
patty pans; bake with only a bottom crust. 

CRANBERRY PIE. 
Boil 1 fl) cranberries in 1 pt water until soft; add 1 
ib fine white sugar, and let simmer 15 or 20 minutes. 
Line a pie-plate; put in the cranberry jam; wash the 



48 PIE AND TART FILLINGS. 

edges, and lay three narrow bars across, fasten at the 
edges, then three more across, forming diamond shaped 
spaces; lay a rim of paste; wash with egg wash, and 
bake in a quick oven until the paste is cooked. 

A little corn starch dissolved in cold water, is some- 
times added with the sugar. 

CKACKER PIE. 

1 qt milk. ^ lb sugar. 

3 or 4 crackers. Vanilla flavor, 

■J- doz eggs. 

Boil crackers and milk; when melted take off the fire 
and let cool; add the other ingredients; bake without 
crust, with frosting on top. 

CREAM PIE. 

1 qt. white wine. 1 oz corn starch dissolved 

1 fi) sugar. in cold water. 

8 yolks and 2 whites of Zest of a lemon, 
eggs. 

Boil sugar and wine; add yolks and whites well 
whipped, stirring till it boils again; add corn starch and 
lemon zest; when cool, fill into dishes and bake. 

CEEAM PIE A LA MERINGUE. 
Boil 3 qts. milk; take 8 ozs. corn starch, 10 whole 
eggs or 20 yolks, and 1 fib sugar; beat the eggs, corn 
starch and sugar together, and pour into the boiling 
milk; stir briskly over a slow fire, until it thickens to 
the consistency of a stiff batter. This constitutes the 
cream, one pint of which will fill an ordinary pie; bake 
as custard pie; when baked, ornament with a meringue 
mixture; place back in the oven to color; when it is done, 
^aYor with yaniUa. 



PIE AND TART FILLINGS. 49 

CUREANT PIE, (1.) 
Leave no stems on the currants; fill the pie with ripe 
currants, adding 6 ozs. sugar to each pie. 

CURRANT PIE, (2.) 
Stew ripe currants in sufficient sugar; strain, and 
proceed as for cranberry pie. 

CURRANT TARTS. 
Carefully pick over a pint of green currants, put in a 
sauce pan, add a little water, and scald; pour ofi" the 
water and»mash them up with six ounces of white sugar, 
three ounces of fresh butter beaten to a cream, white of 
2 eggs, one cup of red currant jelly; line the tart pans with 
paste, put in the mixture, and bake. 

CUSTARD PIE, (1.) 
Boil 1 qt. milk; stir in 1 tablespoon corn starch dis- 
solved in cold water; sweeten and flavor to taste; stir 
in thoroughly 3 beaten eggs; bake with only a bottom 
crust. 

CUSTARD PIE, (2.) 
1^ pts. milk. ^ ib sugar. 

4 eggs. Lemon zest to flavor. 

Beat well together and strain. 

CUSTARD PIE, (3.) 
15 eggs. 2 ozs. flour. 

1 ft> sugar. ^ gal. milk. 

Mix eggs, flour and sugar together first; add milk. 

DAMSON PIE. 
Cover damsons with water and boil till very soft; rub 
through a sieve and add 1 8) sugar to every pound of 
fruit. 

4 



50 PIE AND TART FILLINGS. 

DEWBERRY PIE. 

Proceed with dewberries as for raspberry pie. 

DRIED FRUIT PIES. 
Dried apples, peaches, prunes and plums, etc., may be 
used; cook in water and strain through a sieve; add ^ 
to I ft) sugar to pound of fruit; flavor with lemon, etc., 
to suit taste. 

FARINA PIE. 
2 eggs, 1 pt. milk, 1 tablespoon corn starch, a pinch 
of salt, and sugar to taste. Set the milk over the fire; 
let it simmer, but not boil; soak the corn starch in a 
little cold milk, and when the other milk is hot, stir the 
starch in; add the beaten eggs, and sweeten to taste; 
let all boil a little till it thickens; take it off; add any 
flavoring desired, and pour it into the crust; bake half 
an hour. When baked, glaze the top with the beaten 
white of an egg and a little sugar; set back in the oven 
for a few minutes to brown it a little. 

FRENCH PLUM PIE. 
Steep the fruit overnight in water; add sugar to taste; 
flavor with lemon. 

GOOSEBERRY PIE. 

Boil over a slow fire 1 gal. gooseberries in 1 pt. water; 
when soft, strain through a sieve; add 6 lbs of sugar to 
the juice, if for immediate use, if not, add 8 Bbs sugar; 
in both cases boil ^ hour. 

GOOSEBERRY TARTS. 
Top and tail the gooseberries. Put into a porcelain 



PIE AND TABT FILLINGS. 51 

kettle with enough water to prevent burning, and stew 
slowly until they break. Take them off, sweeten well, 
and set aside to cool. When cold pour into pastry 
shells, and bake with a top crust of puff paste. Brush 
all over with beaten egg while hot, set back in the oven 
to glaze for three minutes. Eat cold. 

GRAPE PIE. 
Boil grapes with as much water as will cover them; 
when boiled to a thick liquor, add ^ lb sugar to each 
pound grapes. Preserved grapes may be used if desired. 

HUCKLEBERRY PIE. 

"Wash and pick the berries; sweeten to taste. 

IRISH POTATO PIE. 

One pound mashed potatoes rubbed through a cullen- 
der, one-half pound butter creamed with the sugar, six 
eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately, one lemon 
squeezed into the potato while hot, one teaspoonful nut- 
meg, one teaspoonful mace and -^ lb white sugar. Mis 
and bake same as sweet potato pie. 

JELLY PIE. 

Take 1 doz. soda crackers, rolled fine, with sufficient 
jelly; beat them well together, adding a little water. 

LEMON PIE. 

Yolks 1 doz eggs. 4 ozs pounded almonds. 

1 oz corn starch. 3 ozs citron. 

Juice and zest of 4 lemons. ^ pt wine. 
•J ft) sugar. 

Heat over a fire till it thickens; add the beaten whites 
of 6 eggs; fill the pies and bake. 



52 PIE AND TART FILLINGS. 

LEMON PIE— CHEAP. 

Boil 1 peck apples, mashing them thi'ougli a strainer; 
add 8 or 10 grated or ground lemons; cut the lemons 
open; take out the seeds before grating; sweeten to 
taste. 

LEMON CREAM PIE. 

Proceed as for Cream Pie a la Meringue, by grating 
the rinds of 3 or 4 lemons according to the quantity re • 
quired. Care must be taken not to let any of the juice 
get into the cream, as it would make the cream sour, 
and ruin the pie. Put the grated rind into the cream 
and stir; flavor with lemon extract and ornament the 
same as other pies. 

The only way the whole of the lemon can be used is 
to substitute water for milk, using a little more egg. 
This makes a good, nice pie, and is equally as good as 
that made with cream 

LEMON MARANG PIE. 

I lb sugar. 2 grated lemons with 

6 ozs butter. juice. 

■^ doz eggs. 1 oz flour. 

Beat butter and sugar, add eggs and lemon; make the 
bottom of puff paste dough; ornament with kiss batter 
and bake in a moderate heat. 

MARLBOROUGH PIE. 

I pt stewed apples. | gill brandy. 

3 eggs. 1 oz chopped citron. 

1 oz butter. 8 macaroons. 

1 gill cream. 

Beat the macaroons fine; add apples and eggs, beating 



PIE AND TART FILLINGS. 63 

well; then the melted butter, cream, citron and brandy; 
bake in deep pie-plate with thin rim of paste. 

MINCE PIE (1.) 

Mince very finely some beef suet, and of this take 1^ 
lbs; pick some currants, stone and chop finely some 
Malaga raisins, and take 1^ Bbs of each. Peel and core 
a quantity of apples, and weigh out 1^ flbs of these, 
mince them also finely, and mix these four ingredients 
in a basin, adding to them 1 lb of moist sugar, -^ lb of 
mixed orange, citron, and lemon, candied peel, also 
finely minced. Squeeze the juice of a lemon in the 
mixture, and, lastly, put in half the thin rind of it, 
chopped as finely as possible. Work the mixture with a 
spoon for a little time; put half a teaspoonful of salt 
into half a tumblerful of brandy, with powdered mixed 
spice and ginger, according to taste; add this to the 
mince, work it a little more to get it well mixed, and put 
it by in a covered jar. It should remain seven or eight 
days before being used, and it will keep for several 
weeks. Butter slightly a number of patty-pans, take a 
piece of the paste, roll it out to the thickness of a 
quarter of an inch, and line the pans with it. Put a 
wineglassful of brandy into the mince, stir it well, and 
put a small quantity of it into each pan; brush the 
paste round with white of egg, and put on a cover of 
paste rolled out to about one-third of an inch thick. 
Press the edges well together, brush the top with cold 
water, strew finely powdered sugar over, and bake about 
half an hour. 

Mince pies are frequently made about Chi-istmas time 
in the shape of mangers, to represent the cradle of 
Bethlehem. 



54 PIE AND TART FILLINGS. 

MINCE PIE (2.) 

10 ibs beef. 1 ft citron. 

20 flbs apples, chopped 10 ibs sugar. 

fine. 2 ozs ground cloves. 

6 ibs raisins. 2 ozs ground cinnamon. 

6 fts currants. 1 oz nutmegs. 

Mix with 2 qts good brandy and the meat broth; press 
the mass in a pot; when used, thin it with cider. The 
above will keep 2 or 3 months in a cold but not damp 
place. Some makers use part sugar and part molasses. 

MINCE PIE (3.) 

8 ibs beef suet, chopped 4 Bbs sugar. 

fine. Mixed spices to taste. 

10 ibs apples, chopped fine. Add 1 pt brandy. 

8 ibs mixed lemon, orange 
and citron peels, chop- 
ped fine. 

Mix the whole and keep in close jar for use. 

MINCE PIE (3*.) 

Prepare the spices in manner and proportion as fol- 
lows: To 4 ozs cinnamon add 2 ozs nutmeg, 4 ozs 
cloves, 2 ozs ground ginger, 1 oz coriander seed, the 
zest of 1 doz each oranges and lemons; pound and sift 
the spices, mixing with the orange and lemon zests; keep 
well corked in dry bottles. 

Procure 4 fts stoned raisins, 4 ibs cleaned currants, 2 
ibs Eleme figs, 2 fts preserved ginger, 4 fts mixed can- 
died peel, 6 fts coarse chopped beef suet; 4 fts tripe, 
and 4 fts boiled salt beef chopped fine together; '6 fts 
peeled apples, to be chopped with the raisins and cur- 
rants; the candied-peel is to be shred small; mix all to- 
gether on a clean table, adding 6 fts moist sugar, and 



PIE AND TART FILLINGS. 55 

the spices; when thoroughly mixed, put the mincemeat 
into stone jars, and two da,js after, pour into each its 
fair proportion of 2 bottles of brandy and two bottles of 
port wine. The addition of 4 ozs pounded bitter al- 
monds would be an improvement. 

MINCE PIE— COMMON. 

This may be made with chopped apples, suet, molasses, 
ground cinnamon, raisins, etc., according to quality 
desired. 

MOCK APPLE PIE. 

Proceed as for Cracker pie, flavoring with lemon. 

MOSAIC TARTS. 

Prepare 2 doz puff paste tartlets (see chapter 5); fill 
each of them with a spoonful of apricot or greengage 
jam; wet round the edges and place a mosaic of paste 
on the top of each; egg them over slightly, and bake 
them of a light color; when they are done shake some 
fine sugar over them, and 'glaze with the red-hot 
salamander. 

ORANGE PEE. 

^ ft) almonds, chopped 5 lbs apples, cut fine. 

fine. 1 ft) sugar. 

1 pt wine. Zest of | doz oranges. 

Mix well; shce the oranges and layover the pies; bake 
with bottom crust and rim. 

PEACH PIE (1.) 

Stone the peaches, and either slice them thinly or cut 
them in quarters or eighths; fill the dishes and sweeten, 
adding a little water; or pounded almonds, grated lemon 
peel and wine may be added. If the fruit is not ripe, 



56 PIE AND TART FILIilNGS. 

it is preferable to boil the peaches soft in only sufficient 
water to prevent burning; when cold enough, remove 
the stones and sweeten with sugar to taste. 

PEACH PIE (2.) 
Proceed with peaches as for stewed apple pie (1.) 

PEACH CUSTAED PIE. 
Proceed as for Custard pie, laying on the bottom 
some cooked fresh or canned peaches; add the custard. 

PEAR PIE. 
If mellow pears are used, proceed as for Apple pie; 
but if stewing pears are made used of, they must first be 
stewed with a little water, sugar, a few cloves and lemon 
peel. When the pears are cold, put them in the dish; 
cover with pie paste and half bake it; sprinkle it over 
with water and the white of an egg whisked together; 
shake sifted sugar over the surface, and put it back in 
the oven to finish baking, of a light color. 

PINE- APPLE PIE. 

Remove the outer rind of a well ripened pine-apple; 
cut in thin slices; add | ib sugar and cook over a slow 
fire, adding i pt red wine and ^ oz cinnamon; let cool 
and fill the pies. 

PLUM PIE. 

Proceed with plums as for Damson pie. 

PRUNE PIE. 

Give the prunes a scald; take out the stones and 
break them; put the kernels into a little cranberry 
juice, with the prunes and sugar; when cold fill the pies. 



PIE AND TART FILLINGS. 57 

PUMPKIN PIE (1.) 

1 doz medium sized pump- 2 fts butter. 

kins. 4 fts sugar. 

2 gals scalded milk. 2 doz eggs. 

Peel and boil the pumpkins, strain through a sieve 
and add milk, butter and sugar. 

PUMPKIN PIE (2.) 
Cut the pumpkins in halves, and remove all the seeds; 
cut them into small pieces, and put the whole onto boil 
with about 1 pt water poured over them ; this moistens 
it sufficiently at first, and if the pumpkin is stirred fre- 
quently it will not burn, — as it softens by cooking, it has 
sufficient moisture of its own. Let it stew an hour or 
more after it becomes soft; strain it through a colander 
into a large pan ; to each quart of pumpkin, add 1 qt 
milk and 4 eggs; sweeten to taste, and flavor with cin- 
namon and ginger. After all is prepared, set the pan 
containing the mixture upon a kettle of warm water, 
that the whole may become warm while preparing the 
crusts; bake the crusts a little before pouring the pump- 
kin in; fill, and bake immediately in a hot oven. 

PUMPKIN PIE— DRIED. 

Dry the pumpkin after the following manner : Boil 
it a good while: spread it upon plates, or drop a spoon- 
ful at a time upon buttered paper, which is laid on tins, 
forming cakes, as it were, and set the tins into a slow 
oven after the baking has been removed; it dries in this 
way without getting dusty. 

In making the pies, take for each pie three cakes of 
pumpkin and 3 eggs; sugar to taste; soften the pump- 



58 PIE AND TART FILLINaS. 

kin in warm milk; strain through a colander; spice 
with cinnamon, and bake in a deep dish. 

When well dried, the pumpkin will keep over a year. 

PUMPKIN PIE— GRATED. 

An excellent pie is made by grating the raw pumpkin, 
adding one egg and a cup of cream for each pie; sugar 
and spice to taste. A little butter is an improvement. 

PUNCH PIE. 

1 qt white wine. 1^ ozs corn starch dis- 

1 ft) sugar. solved in cold water. 
Yolks of 8 eggs. Lemon flavor. 

2 whole eggs. 

Boil wine and sugar; add the eggs and corn starch 
beaten well together; let come to a boil; when cool fill 
the pies. 

QUINCE PIE. 

6 K)S quinces, sliced. 3^ lbs sugar. 

1 pt wine. Zest of a lemon. 

1 pt cider. | oz cloves. 

Boil and press through a sieve. 

RAISIN PIE. 

Take 1 lb raisins; turn over them 1 qt boiling water; 
keep adding so that there will be 1 qt when done; grate 
the rind of a lemon into ^ Sb sugar, adding three table- 
spoons of flour and 1 egg; mix well together and turn 
the raisins over the mixture, stirring the while. 

Prunes may be used instead of raisins. 

RASPBERRY PIE. 
After picking and cleaning the berries, add ^ lb sugar 



PIE AND TART FILLINGS. 59 

to every pound. If desired to keep for 3 or 4 days boil 
for -J hour with the sugar and a little water. 

EHUBARB PIE. 

8 lbs rhubarb, cut and 1 qt water, 
peeled. 6-8 lbs sugar. 

Boil the rhubarb in the water until it gets thick; add 
sugar and some grated lemon peel; when boiling again 
add 1 oz corn starch dissolved in a little cold water; 
leave it on the fire a few minutes longer. 

RHUBARB OR PIE PLANT PIE. 

Select the largest stalks; peel off the skin carefully; 
slice them fine, and when the undercrust is prepared 
upon a plate, spread them over as full as for apple pie; 
sprinkle over with sugar to taste, and a little water; 
dredge with flour, adding a few bits of butter; cover 
with crust and bake. While warm, grate white sugar 
over. 

RICE PIE. 

Boil 1 lb rice in about ^ gal milk until very soft; rub 
through a sieve and add 1 doz eggs well beaten, a little 
salt and 1 ib sugar; flavor as desired; bake as for 
Custard pie. 

SQUASH PIE. 

Boil winter squash soft, and strain it through a col- 
ander; for every pint of squash add 1 pt milk or cream; 
add 4 eggs well beat, and cinnamon and sugar to taste; 
strain and bake in a deep pie dish. 

STRAWBERRY PIE. 
Proceed with strawberries as for Raspberry pie. 



60 PIE AND TART FILLINGS. 

STRAWBERRY MERINGUE PIE. 
Procure some good strawberries that are clean and 
do not need washing, as it is well known that washing 
destroys the delicate flavor of the berries. Pick them 
clean, taking care not to multilate them in the least. 
Make a dough as follows: Take 2 lbs of the best pastry- 
flour; rub into it |- lb fresh butter, the same as for soda 
biscuit, adding 1 oz baking powder; make a hollow in 
the middle, put in 2 eggs, -j ft) sugar, a little salt, and 
enough milk to make a nice dough. Roll the dough as 
an ordinary pie crust, and line the pie plates; dock the 
crust with a fork so that it will not get displaced from 
the bottom of the tin; bake in a moderate oven with 
great care, as it spoils them to get too well done, or not 
to be baked enough. Beat up the whites of 6 eggs to a 
stiff froth; add 8 ozs pulverized sugar; put in the straw- 
berries and mix as gently as possible; fill the pie-plate 
with the mass and ornament the top with the meringue 
made as before; place the pies in the oven until they 
have a nice color, when they are ready for use. This is 
the best way of making pies of strawberries, because 
the crust being cooked before, they do not require any 
cooking after the berries are added, whereby the flavor 
is destroyed. The above makes an excellent shortcake 
by rolling the dough a little thicker and baking in a flat 
pan. 

SWEET POTATO PIE. 

Peel and cook as many sweet potatoes as desired; 
when cooked, press through a sieve or colander and 
season with spices. Make a custard, using 4 eggs to 1 
quart milk and 8 ozs sugar; put the whole through a 
sieve again, and bake the same as pumpkin pie. 



PIE AND TART FILLINGS. 61 

TRANSPARENT PIE. 

I lb white sugar. 4 eggs. 

J fb butter. 

Beat the eggs very light; mix the ingredients, and 
bake in one lower crust; flavor to taste. 

VANILLA CREAM PIE. 

1 stick vanilla, pounded ^ ft) sugar. 

fine. 1 oz corn starch, dissolved 

1 qt white wine. in cold water. 

8 whole eggs. 

Stir over a slow fire, removing immediately when it 
comes to a boil; finish as for custard pie. 

VANILLA TARTS. 

1 ft) sugar. 1^ ft)S flour. 

2^ doz eggs. Vanilla flavor. 

Beat eggs; warm over the fire with the sugar; add flavor 
and flour, stirring well. Make the bottom out of short 
paste and place it in patty pans; put in the centre 
of each pan a little jelly; force the batter through a bag 
into the pans, or drop with a spoon; sift sugar over 
them and bake in a moderate oven. 

WASHINGTON CREAM PIE. 

1 ft) sugar. ^ ft) citron, cut fine. 

2 doz yolks of eggs. Cinnamon and allspice to 
J ft) bread crumbs. taste. 

4 lb grated chocolate. 

Stir sugar and yolks together; beat up the whites 
stiff; mix altogether well; make the bottom of short 
paste, with a ridge around them; bake in a moderate 
oven. 



CHAPTEEVIL 
PASTKY CAKES. 

Bread and Butter Pastry— Cheese-cakes, (1) — Cheese-cakes, (2) — 
Cheese-cakes, (3) — Conde Cakes— Darioles — D'Artois Cakes — 
Eccles Cake, (1)— Eccles Cake, (2)— Eccles Cake, (3)— Fancy 
Pastry Cakes, (1> — Fancy Pastry Cakes, (2) — French Paste — 
German Tourte of Apricots, etc.--Genoise Pastry— Jam Sand- 
wiches — Lover's Knots — Marigolds — Mince Cakes — Mirlitons 
— Parisian Loaves — Parisian Turnovers of Apple, etc. — Pastry 
Pyramids— Pethivier's Cake — Plaits — Polish Cakes— Puits d'A- 
mour — Raspberry Sandwiches — Rings or Wreaths- -Royals — 
Sandwiches— Shortcakes — Swiss Paste — Talmouses — Walnuts. 

BREAD AND BUTTER PASTRY. 

Roll out 1 ft) pu£f paste 5 inch thick; cut into bands 
3 inches wide, and then into strips a little more than ^ 
inch wide; place them (on the cut side) on a baking 
sheet in rows 2 inches apart, so as to allow them suffi- 
cient room to spread out; bake in a rather sharp oven, 
and just before they are done, glaze them, by shaking 
fine sugar over them and using the red-hot salamander. 
About 2 doz. of them are required for a dish; they 
must be spread with some kind of preserve and stuck 
together in pairs, to imitate bread and butter. Dish 
them up on a napkin, piled up in several circular rows, 
in a pyramid. 

This kind of pastry may also be dished up with some 
stiffly whipped cream, seasoned with a glass of liqueur 
in the centre. 

CHEESE-CAKES, (1.) 

1 ft) pressed curd. 1 doz. yolks of eggs. 

I tb ratafias. Zest of 4 oranges or lemons 



PASTRY CAKES. 63 



I ft) sugar. Pinch salt. 

^ ft) butter. Nutmeg to taste. 

Press the curd in a napkin to absorb the superfluous 
moisture; pound it thoroughly in a mortar, and mix in 
the above ingredients; when the whole is incorporated 
together into a kind of soft paste, take this up in a basin. 
Line four dozen or more tart pans with some well- 
worked trimmings of puff paste; garnish them with the 
cheese curd; place a strip of candied peel on the top of 
each; put them on a baking sheet, and set them in the 
oven, at a moderate heat, to be baked of a very light 
brown color; when done, sift a very little sifted sugar 
over them, serving them quite hot. 

Currants, dried cherries, sultanas or citron, etc., may 
be used instead of the candied peel. 

CHEESE-CAKES, (2.) 
Four eggs well beaten, stirred into one pint of boiling 
milk; put pan containing the milk and eggs over the 
fire and stir until it curdles; strain off the whey, and 
let the curd cool; grate six ounces of stale sponge cake 
and mix the cold curd; stir half a pound of butter and 
the same of pulverized sugar to a cream, add a wine 
glass of brandy and Madeira mixed, a little rose water 
and powdered cinnamon; mix all these ingredients to- 
gether. Have ready a nice puff paste, roll it out very 
thin, and cut it into squares about four or five inches 
wide; place a large spoonful of the cheese mixture in 
the centre of each square, spread it a little and fold the 
edges of the paste partly over it, press and pinch down 
the corners. This forms a flat square tart. Sprinkle a 
few Zante currants in the centre on the uncovered por- 



64 PASTRY CAKES. 



tion of the cheese; place them on baking tins and bate 
in a moderate oven. 

CHEESE-CAKES, (3). 
See under Baked Puddings, Part II, Chapter 5: 

Almond Cheese Curd Pudding; 

Cheese Curd Pudding; 

Egg Cheese Curd Pudding; 

Lemon Cheese Curd Pudding; 

Orange Cheese Curd Pudding; 

Potato Cheese Curd Pudding; 
Also under Cold Puddings, Part II, Chapter 9: 

Dorothy's Curd Pudding. 

CONDE CAKES. 
Chop I ft) of Jordan Almonds as fine as possible; mix 
them with ^ ft) sifted sugar, some lemon zest and the 
whites of two eggs; the whole should present the ap- 
pearance of a rather firm paste. Roll out 1 fb puff 
paste 1-8 inch thick, and with a tin cutter of an oval, 
circular, cresent, diamond, or any other fancy shape, 
stamp out about 3 doz. Condes, and place them on a 
baking sheet, previously wetted over with a paste brush. 
Spread a coating of the prepared chopped almonds on 
the surface of each; shake some fine sugar over them, 
and bake of a very light-fawn color. 

DARIOLES. 

1 lb puff paste trimmings. 2 eggs and 1 doz. yolks. 

2 ozs flour. 2 ozs candied orange 
4 ozs pounded sugar. flowers. 

2 ozs ratafias. 2 ozs butter 

6 gills cream. Pinch salt. 

Place the sugar, flour, bruised ratafias and the eggs, 



tASTBY CAKES. 65 



in a spouted basin; work the whole well together, and 
add the cream, salt and a tablespoon of orange-flower 
water. Line 2 dozen dariole-moulds with some trim- 
mings of puff paste; place them on a baking sheet; put 
a very small piece of butter at the bottom of each dari- 
ole, and then after stirring the batter well together, 
pour it into the moulds; strew the candied flowers on 
the top of each, and set them in the oven (at moderate 
heat) to bake. When done, the darioles should be 
slightly raised in the centre, and of a light color; take 
them out of the moulds without breaking them; shake 
some finely sifted sugar over them, and serve them hot. 
Darioles may also be flavored with vanilla, lemon, or- 
ange, coffee, chocolate, etc. 

D'AKTOIS CAKES. 

Make 1 lb puff paste, giving it seven turns or foldings; 
take one-third of it, and after kneading this well to- 
gether, roll it out to the size of a square baking sheet 
about 14x12 inches, and lay the paste upon it; spread 
a rather thick layer of apricot or other jam over the 
paste to within about an inch of the edges. Roll out 
the remainder of the puff paste to the size of the baking 
sheet, and place it neatly over the surface of the jam; 
fasten it round by pressing upon the edges with the 
thumb, and trim the edges by cutting away the super- 
fluous paste from the sides with a knife. 

The D'Artois must now be marked out in small oblong 
shapes with the back part of a knife; and after the 
whole surface has been egged over, score them very 
neatly, forming a kind of feather-pattern on each cake. 
Bake them of a bright, light-brown color; and when 
they are done, shake some finely-sifted sugar over them; 
5 



66 PASTRY CAKES. 



put them back again into the oven for a minute or two 
to melt the sugar, and then pass the red-hot salamander 
over them to give the pastry a bright, glossy appear- 
ance. When the D'Artois have become sufficiently cold, 
cut them up, and serve them, dished up in circular rows 
piled on a napkin. 

This kind of pastry may also be garnished with Pethi- 
vier's cream, pastry cream, apple marmalade, or any 
other kind of preserve. 

Puff-paste or large D'Artois cakes may also be garn- 
ished with mince-meat, etc. In this case, however, 
where the cake has been covered in with the puff paste, 
previously to marking out the design on its surface, it 
must be egged over with a paste brush; when it has 
been baked of a bright yellow color, shake some finely 
sifted sugar over it and proceed as directed above. 

ECCLES CAKE (1.) 
Roll out a sheet of paste sufficiently large to cover the 
baking plate, about | inch thick; roll out another sheet 
the same size but rather thicker; spread some Banbury 
meat (see Banbury Puffs) on the first sheet, ^ inch 
thick; cover it with the second sheet; trim it, and mark 
the top sheet into squares; bake in a moderate oven; 
when done dredge the top with powdered sugar. 

ECCLES CAKE (2.) 
Have ready some tins 1 foot long by 6 or 9 inches 
wide. Roll out a sheet of puff paste rather more than 
I inch thick, and sufficiently large to line the tin; put 
on a layer of Banbury meat | inch thick; cover with a 
sheet of paste as thick again as the bottom crust; trim 
the paste from the sides, and divide the top into small 



PASTRY CAKES. 67 



squares; bake in a moderate oven; as soon as it is done, 
dust the top with powdered loaf sugar. 

The thickness of the Banbury meat, as well as the 
size of the squares, should be regulated by the price at 
which they are to be sold. 

ECCLES CAKE (3.) 

Make a | paste, or use scraps of paste; roll it out | 
inch thick and cut in 3-inch squares; prepare a mixture 
of equal quantities of moist sugar and clean currants; 
add a little finely-chopped lemon peel, also a little lemon 
flavor; add a good flavoring of ground cinnamon and 
ginger. Mix the whole together, just wetting it with 
water; place a tablespoonful of this in the centre of 
each piece of paste, and draw the paste over it so as to 
cover it, making it round in form ; roll them out 4 inches 
in diameter and pan the folded part down; wash with 
eggs and milk, and dust with sugar; with a knife give 
them a few cuts across each other on the surface, and 
bake in a solid oven a nice brown. 

If a poorer quality is desired, add a few cake or 
cracker crumbs. 

FANCY PASTEY CAKES (1.) 
Puff paste, turned or folded eight times, rolled out 
I inch thick, and stamped with appropriate fancy-shaped 
tin cutters — either in the form of crescents, leaves, 
trefoil or shamrock, stars, etc. It should be baked as 
directed for rings and wreaths, and decorated in the 
same manner, a paper cornet being used for this pur- 
pose. 

FANCY PASTEY CAKES (2.) 
Roll out puff paste thin; cut it into small pieces with 



68 PASTRY CAKES. 



a round scolloped cutter, or into square pieces with a 
knife; or make them in any form desired with tin cut- 
ters; place the cakes on a clean tin, and bake them in 
a moderate oven; put jam or jelly on the top of each, 
and arrange them tastefully in a nougat or other basket, 
or in a dish on a folded napkin. 

FKENCH PASTE. 

See Kaspberry Sandwich. 

GERMAN TOURTE OF APRICOTS, ETC. 

Cut 1 doz ripe apricots into quarters, and put them, 
with the kernels extracted from the stones, into a small 
sugar boiler or stewpan, with 4 ozs pounded sugar and 
a spoonful of water; stir over the tire until the fruit has 
dissolved into a jam, and then remove. 

Roll out some puflf-paste trimmings, or about ^ ft) 
short paste, to the diameter of 8 inches; place this on a 
circular baking sheet, and with the forefinger and 
thumb of the right hand, twist the paste round the 
edges, so as to raise it in imitation of cording; cut up 1 
doz ripe apricots into quarters, and place these in close 
circular rows on the j)aste; shake sifted sugar (mixed 
with lemon zest) over the apricots, and bake the tourte 
at a moderate heat. When it is done, pour the marma- 
lade of apricots over the others; shake sifted sugar 
mixed with cinnamon powder over the surface; dish the 
tourte on a napkin, and serve it either hot or cold. 

This kind of tourte may be made of every kind of 
fruit, following in each case the above directions. 

GENOISE PASTRY. 
Take a J ib of fresh butter, put it into a bowl, and 
warm it until it can be beaten with a spoon; add 4 ozs 



PASTRY CAKES. 69 



of powdered loaf sugar, and beat the two together until 
a smooth white cream is obtained; then add one egg, 
and keep on beating the mixture till it is smooth again, 
then add three more eggs in the same manner. Lastly, 
incorporate quickly with the mixture ^ lb of the finest 
flour, and as soon as it is smooth pour it out to the 
thickness of ^ inch on a buttered tin, and put this into 
the oven at once. When done (in about 10 or 15 min- 
utes) turn out the slab of Genoise and put it to cool, 
underside uppermost, on a sieve. When cold, spi*ead 
a very thin layer of apricot jam over the top of the slab, 
then a coating of chocolate icing. Put it in the oven 
for a minute, then in a cold place till quite cold, when, 
with a sharp knife or cutter, the slab can be cut in 
a variety of shapes, to be served piled up on a napkin. 

JAM SANDWICHES. 
Mix the yolks of two eggs very smoothly with a table- 
spoonful of ground rice, add a very small pinch of salt, 
a tablespoonful of sugar, half a pint of thick cream, and 
a quarter of a pint of new milk. Beat the whites of the 
eggs to a firm froth, add them last of all, and beat the 
mixture for four or five minutes. Butter two large 
plates, put in the mixture, and bake in a quick oven 
until it is set and lightly browned. Spread a little jam 
over one of the cakes and lay the other upon it, the 
browned part uppermost. Sift a little sugar over it be- 
fore serving. Jam sandwiches may be eaten either hot 
or cold. Time, twenty minutes to bake. 

LOVER'S KNOTS. 
Roll out a piece of puff paste into a thin sheet; cut it 
into pieces 3 or 4 inches square; fold each corner over 



70 PASTRY CAKES. 



into the centre, and cut a piece out from each side, leaT- 
ing it in the form of a true lover's knot; put them on a 
tin, and bake in a moderale oven; when they are done, 
place some jam or preserve on each point, and some in 
the centre. 

MARIGOLDS. 
Roll out 1 ib puff paste 1-6 inch thick; stamp out 40 
flats with a circular fluted tin cutter, about 1| inches in 
diameter, and place them on a wetted baking sheet; 
roll out the trimmings rather thin, and with two smaller 
cutters stamp out as many rings, about | inch in diame- 
ter, as there are cakes, placing one of these on the centre 
of each marigold, previously wetted all over the surface. 
Place some almonds split into four strips lengthwise 
closely around the rings, in a somewhat slanting direc- 
tion; these must be slightly pressed in the paste to make 
them hold on, and should be so arranged as to give to 
the cake as much as possible the appearance of the 
flower they are meant to resemble. When they are all 
completed, shake sugar over them, and bake of a light 
color. When done, insert some very narrow strips of 
bright, firm, red currant or apple jelly, between each 
piece of almond, and place a piece of apricot or green- 
gage jam in the ring. 

MINCE CAKES. 

See Eccles Cakes. 

MIRLITONS. 

1 doz. eggs. ^ lb butter. 

1 tb stfgar. Pinch salt. 

^ ft) ratafias. Puff paste trimmings. 

2 ozs candied orange 
flowers. 

Put the above into a basin having a spout. The rata- 



PASTRY CAKES. 71 



fias and orange flowers must be bruised, and the butter 
merely melted. Work the whole well together with a 
wooden spoon, until the batter presents the appearance 
of a rich, creamy-looking substance; it must then be in- 
stantly poured into about 8 dozen small, deep tartlet-pans 
lined with puff paste trimmings; shake a rather thick 
coating of sifted sugar over the Mirlitons, and when it 
has nearly melted on their surface, put them in the oven 
( at very moderate heat) and bake them of a light fawn 
color. When the Mirlitons are done, the centre should 
rise out from the tartlets to the height of about ^ inch, 
resembling the crown of a boy's cap. 

These cakes may also be flavored with grated choco- 
late, or with pounded pistachios or almonds. They 
may also be flavored with extract of vanilla, lemon, etc. 
Previously to pouring the batter into the tartlets, a 
spoonful of apricot or pineapple jam may be placed in 
them. 

PAEISIAN LOAVES. 

Prepare some small slender finger-biscuits; spread 
them with apricot or greengage jam, and stick two of 
them together; hold one at a time on a fork and mask 
them over slightly with meringue paste; then with a 
paper cornet filled with some of the same paste, draw 
parallel lines across the cakes in a slanting direction; 
when they are all completed, shake sugar over them, 
and put them into the oven to be baked, or rather dried 
of a very light fawn color. When done, insert some 
narrow strips of currant jelly, greengage jam, or apple 
jelly, between the bars of decoration. 

PARISIAN TURNOVER OF APPLES, ETC. 
Peel about 1 doz apples; cut them in quarters and 



72 PASTKY CAKES. 



take out the cores; after which, put them into a stew- 
pan with 8 ozs sugar, 2 ozs butter, the zest of a lemon, 
and two tablespoons of water; toss the apples over a 
slow fire until they are about half done, when remove. 
While the apples are being prepared, roll out a piece of 
short paste in a circular form, | inch thick, and about 
the size of a dinner plate; wet this round the edge; 
fasten a rolled cord of paste, the thickness of the small 
finger, within an inch of the edge, and pile the pre- 
pared apples up in the centre in the form of a dome. 
Spread apricot marmalade over the surface, and cover 
the whole in with a circular piece of puff-paste; press 
them together round the edges, wet the extremities, and 
with the forefinger and thumb of the right hand, turn 
or fold the edges over in the form of a cord. Let the 
turn-over be now egged all over with a soft paste-brush 
dipped in some beaten white of egg; strew rough granite 
sugar over the entire surface, and bake of a light color. 
These turnovers may also be made of all kinds of 
plums, the only difference in their mode of preparation 
being that they need not undergo any dressing pre- 
viously to placing them in the paste, except that the 
stones should be removed. The plums, peaches, or 
apricots, must be piled up in several rows forming a 
dome, with pounded sugar between each layer; and 
some of the same kind of fruit the turn-over is made of 
should be first boiled down to a jam, for the purpose of 
masking the fruit with, preparatory to its being covered 
in. 

PASTRY PYRAMIDS. 

Roll out some puff-paste into a sheet -J inch thick; 
cut it out, either with round or oval cutters, into pieces 



PASTRY CAKES. 73 



each a size or two smaller than the other; bake in a 
moderate oven; spread jam or marmalade over each 
piece, being careful not to put in enough to run down 
the sides and disfigure them; put the pieces one on the 
other in the shape of a pyramid. Each slice or piece 
may be spread with a difterent sort or colored preserve. 

PETHIVIER'S CAKE. 

1 ft) almonds or nuts. 8 yolks of eggs. 

I lb sugar. A pinch of salt. 

^ tt) butter. 2 spoonsful orange flower 



ft) ratafias. water. 



Blanch and pound the almonds or nuts with a little 
white of an egg until they become pulverized; add the 
remainder of the ingredients and pound the whole well 
together until thoroughly incorporated, when it should 
present the apj^earance of a rather soft creamy paste; 
take this up in a basin. 

Have ready 1 ib puff-paste; take about f of this and 
knead or rather fold it, by twisting over the corners, so 
as to form it into a cushion; knead the other piece in a 
similar manner; roll them both out in a circular or oval 
form, to the size of a small dish or dessert plate; place 
the thinest piece on a baking sheet; wet around the 
edges with a paste-brush dipped in water; fill the whole 
of the centre with the layer of Pethivier's cream, about 
an inch thick, placing the other piece of puff-paste over 
the top of this; press it all round the edge by beariug 
on it with the thumb of the right hand; trim the edges 
round neatly, and with the point of a knife, handling 
lightly and freely, sketch or mark out some neat or 
elegant design, such as a lyre, a vase of flowers, a hel- 
met with flowing mane or feathers, a wreath, star, etc. 



•74 PASTRY CAKES. 



Shake finely sifted sugar over the cake, and bake of the 
lightest possible color; indeed, it should be free from 
any color, the characteristic appearance of this kind of 
pastry being its whiteness. Pethivier's cake should be 
eaten cold. 

These cakes may also be made in tart moulds, thinly 
lined with puff-paste, and after being neatly filled with 
the Pethivier's cream (the edges being previously wetted 
round) the mould must be covered in with circular pieces 
of puff paste, stamped out with a cutter to fit them; 
they should then be fastened down by pressing the two 
pieces of paste together with the forefinger and thumb 
of the right hand, and finished and baked as directed 
above. 

PLAITS. 

Roll out 1 ft) puff-paste | inch thick; cut this into 
bands about 5 inches in width, and divide these into 
narrow strips J inch wide. Take four of these strips, 
and after fastening them together at one end, with a 
little egg or water, plait them neatly but rather loosely 
together, and when finished, fasten the ends. As each 
plait is completed, place it on a baking sheet, and when 
they are all ready, egg them over and bake them of a 
light color; when done, let them be glazed as usual. 
Just before sending these cakes to the table, decorate 
them by placing in the small cavities some dots of bright 
currant or apple jelly, and some greengage jam. 

POLISH CAKES. 
KoU out 1 lb puff paste about 1-6 inch thick; cvit it 
up icto square pieces of 2 inches eacli; wet Ihese in 
the centre, folding down the corners so as to make them 



PASTRY CAKES. 15 



all meet iu tlie middle of the piece of paste; place a dot 
of paste in the centre of each, pressing it down with the 
end of the finger; egg over, and bake in a rather sharp 
oven, of a fine, bright, light color; just before they are 
(lone, shake finely sifted sugar over them; pat them back 
in the oven to melt the sugar, and pass the red-hot sala- 
mander over them to give them a glossy appearance. 
Decorate this kind of pastry with red-currant or apple 
jelly. 

PUITS D'AMOUK 

Eoll out puff pa^te as for patty cases; cut out as many 
pieces as required with an oval scolloped cutter about 2 
or 3 inches long; cut the top of the paste with a sharp- 
pointed knife half through at each end of the oval; 
brash the tops over with egg, place them on a tin and 
bake in a moderate oven. Roll out pieces of tart paste 
into a small roll; twist them and make them into semi- 
circles, to form handles; place in a tin and bake them. 
Take out the paste from the centre of the ovals where it 
was marked with a knife, and fill with any sort of pre- 
serve or cream; or a fine strawberry, grape or goose- 
berry may be put on each; fix the handle over the cen- 
tre with a little barley sugar or icing. 

These cakes may be made rovind instead of oval, and 
the edges may be strewn with blanched and chopped 
sweet almonds or pistachios, and the sides piped with 
any sort of jam or jelly. These cakes form a pretty 
dish for a second course. 

EASPBERRY SANDWICH. 
Rollout puff paste- ^ inch thick; cut into strips 3 
inches long and | inch wide; lay them on a baking plate 
with the cut side uppermost, placing them about 3 



16 PASTRY CAKES. 



inches apart. Bake in a moderately quick oven. While 
they are baking, instead of rising they will spread out 
like a fan; take them out and dust over them some fine 
powdered sugar; put them again into the oven one min- 
ute to melt the sugar, and they will be glazed. When 
done, form a sandwich by spreading some raspberry jam 
between two pieces. 

By varying the jam used, quite a variety may be made 
from this recipe. Another name for the above is French 
or Swiss Paste. 

RINGS OR WREATHS. 
Roll out 1 lb puff paste 1-6 inch thick; stamp out 40 
circular pieces with a fluted tin cutter, about 1| inches 
in diameter; stamp out the centre of these with a plain, 
circular cutter | inch in diameter; place the rings on a 
wet baking sheet; shake some fine sugar over them, and 
bake in a moderate oven of a very light color. When 
they are done, decorate them with the whipped white of 
egg and sugar, over which strew some coarse sugar; put 
them in a screen to dry; finish decorating them by plac- 
ing or inserting some strips of currant or apple jelly 
between the folds or dots of the decoration. 

ROYALS. 

Mix the whites of 4 eggs with as much finely sifted 
sugar as they will absorb, so as to form a soft paste; 
mix as lightly as possible and flavor to taste. Roll out 
1 tb puff paste and finish as for Conde Cakes. 

SANDWICHES. 

Roll out puff paste into a thin sheet; spread rasp- 
berry or other jam over it; roll out another piece the 



WASTRY CAKES. 7? 



same size and thickness as the former, and put it over 
it; cut the whole with cutters into rings, crescents, or 
other forms; or with a knife into diamonds, squares, 
triangles or fingers; glaze as for Raspberry Sandwiches; 
or they may be iced with the white of an egg that has 
been whisked to a froth, and dusted with fine powdered 
sugar, and sprinkled with just enough water to soften 
the sugar. 

SHORTCAKES. 

See Fancy Pastry Cakes, Sandwiches, etc. 

SWISS PASTE. 
See Raspberry Sandwich. 

TALMOUSES. 

1 pt. milk, I ft) cream curd, 

■^ ft) flour, Zest of two oranges, 

\ ft) sugar, 1 doz. yolks of eggs, 

^ ft) butter. Pinch salt. 

Put the milk, butter, sugar and salt into a stew-pan 
on the fire, and as soon as they begin to simmer, fill in 
the flour by stirring the whole with a wooden spoon for 
2 or 3 minutes; add the curd (from which all superflu- 
ous moisture must be extracted by pressing it with a 
napkin,) and work in the eggs one after the other, re- 
membering that this paste must be kept to about the 
same substance as for Petits-choux. 

Roll out 1 lb puff paste 1-8 inch thick; stamp out 
about 4 doz. circular pieces with a tin cutter 2 inches 
in diameter, placing them in neat order on a baking 
sheet, an inch apart; place a teaspoon of the above prep- 
aration in the centre of each ; wet them round the edges, 
and turn up the sides so as to form each of them in the 



78 PASTRY CAKES. 



shape of a three-cornered hat; egg them over with a 
paste-brush; bake them of a hght brown color, and 
when they are withdrawn from the oven, shake some 
fine sugar over them. These cakes may be served either 
hot or cold. 

WALNUTS. 
Roll out 1 lb puff paste 1-6 inch thick; stamp out 40 
circular pieces with a fluted cutter, about 14- inches in 
diameter; after wetting each of these with a paste-brush 
dipped in water, fold them up, at the same time press- 
ing the two parts of paste slightly, so as to cause them 
to adhere closely together. They must then be placed 
on a baking-sheet in rows, egged over, and baked of a 
bright, light color; just before they are done, shake over 
them fine sugar, and put back in the oven for a little 
while to melt the sugar; pass the red-hot salamander 
over, and withdraw them. Previously to serving this 
kind of pastry, a broad strip of red-currant or apple 
jelly should be placed across the centre. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

PASTRY CREAMS— BLANC MANGE— CHARLOTTE 
RUSSE, ETC. 

Bavarian Cream— Blanc Mange, (1) — Blanc Mange, (2) — Blanc 
Mange, Almond — Blanc Mange, American — Blanc Mange, 
Berry — Caramel Cream — Celestine Cream— Charlotte Kusse— 
Chocolate Cream— Cofiee Cream— Fruit Creams — Italian Cream 
— Pastry Cream or Custard, (1)— Pastry Cream or Custard, (2) 
— Rock Cream — Russian Charlotte — Russia Cream — Tapioca 
Cream — Vanilla Cream, with fruit sauce — Whipped Cream, (1) 
— Whipped Cream, (2.) 

BAVARIAN CREAM. 
Whip 1 pt. double cream until it presents the appear- 
ance of a snow-like froth; be careful not to over- whip 
it for it would then produce butter. To the whipped 
cream add a glass of any kind of liqueur, 6 ozs. of sifted 
sugar and 2 ozs. clarified isinglass; mix lightly and 
thoroughly; use this to fill a mould imbedded in ice; 
when set firm, dip the mould in hot water, wipe it, and 
turn the cream out on its dish. 

BLANC MANGE, (1). 

2 qts. milk. | pt. rose water. 

I lb sugar. 4 ozs. isinglass. 

Mix; let it come to a boil; flavor with almonds, etc.; 
allow it to stand until blood warm, and run in moulds. 

BLANC MANGE, (2). 
Pound in a mortar 4 ozs. of blanched sweet almonds 



80 PASTRY CREAMS, BLANC MANGE, ETC. 

with ^ oz. bitter ones, moistening them gradually with 
orange flower water; mix this with 1 qt. fresh cream 
and 1 oz. clarified isinglass; put into a saucepan stirring 
constantly until it boils; pass through a fine sieve, pour 
into a mould and set on ice. 

Blanc mange may be flavored with vanilla, Mocha 
coffee, maraschino, pistachios, etc.; in which case 
the bitter almonds should be left out. 

BLANC MANGE— ALMOND. 

Blanch and pound in a mortar 8 ozs. of sweet and 1 
oz. of bitter almonds, with a little orange flower water 
to moisten them. Mix this with 2 ozs. isinglass and ^ gal. 
fresh cream; put it on the fire till it boils, stirring all 
the time; strain through a sieve; pour into moulds; 
which place on ice. 

Blanc mange made according to this recipe may be 
fliavored with cofi'ee, strawberries, pistachios, maras- 
chino, etc. If required in this case, use no bitter al- 
monds. 

BLANC MANGE— AMERICAN. 

Peel and pound to a soft paste eight or ten Brazil 
nuts; add a gill of water while pounding; let this stand 
for two hours to extract the flavor. Beat four fresh 
eggs and mix them into five tablespoonfuls of corn 
starch; dissolve four ounces of loaf sugar in a pint of 
new milk; add the nuts, simmer for five minutes, let it 
stand off the fire for five minutes, then strain it into the 
eggs, stirring them quickly as the milk is added; stir 
over a slow fire till it thickens. Pour the mixture into 
a mould, and let it remain in a cool place till firmly set. 



PASTRY CREAMS, BLANC MANGE, ETC. 81 

Turn out carefully, and garnish with preserved mango, 
guava jelly, or preserved ginger. 

BLANC MANGE— BERRY. 

Stew ripe strawberries or raspberries, strain off the 
juice and sweeten to taste; place over the fire, and when 
it boils stir in corn starch wet in cold water, allowing 
two tablespoons of corn starch for each pint of juice; 
continue stirring until sufficiently cooked, pour into 
moulds wet in cold water and set away to cool; serve 
with cream and sugar, and fresh berries if desired. This 
makes a pretty and delicious dessert. 

CARAMEL CREAM. 

Put 4 ozs. of sugar with a bruised stick of cinnamon, 
the peel of a lemon and ^ gill of water, into a stewpan 
on the fire, to boil until it is of a light brown; it must 
then be stirred a little while longer on the fire, without 
allowing it to gain too dark a hue; pour in ^ gill water 
to dissolve it, and add 8 yolks of eggs, 1 pt. milk, and 6 
ozs. sugar; stir the cream on the fire until it thickens; 
run it through a sieve into a basin, add ^ pt. whipped 
cream, and 2 ozs. dissolved gelatine; mix, and fill a 
mould imbedded in ice. 

CELESTINE CREAM. 
Imbed a plain mould in some rough ice; line the 
bottom and sides of the mould with picked strawberries, 
taking care to dip each strawberry in dissolved thin 
isinglass, in which there has been mixed some maras- 
chino, as they are built round the mould; when the 
mould is thus completely lined inside, fill the interior 
with any pastry cream. 

6 



82 PASTRY CREAMS, BLANC MANGE, ETC. 

CHARLOTTE RUSSE. 

1 pt. sweet cream. 1 oz. isinglass. 
•^ pt. new milk. 1 doz. eggs. 

2 glasses Madeira. 

Form a custard with the yolks of the eggs and the 
milk; sweeten to taste; dissolve the isinglass in 1 pt. 
water, and add it to the custard; put the whole on the 
fire until it gets thick and creamy, keep stirring and add 
the wine. Whip the cream; sweeten it and mix with 
the custard; pour the mixture into moulds previously 
lined with sponge cake, and set on ice. 

The custard must be allowed to cool before adding 
the whipped cream. Any flavor desired may be added 
in place of the Madeira wine. 

CHOCOLATE CREAM. 

Grate 6 ozs. chocolate and put it into a stewpan with 
1 pt. boiled milk, 6 ozs. sugar, and 8 yolks of eggs; stir 
the cream over the fire until it thickens; run it through 
a hair sieve into a basin; add 2 ozs. dissolved gelatine; 
mix, and set the cream in a mould imbedded in rough 
ice. 

COFFEE CREAM. 

Put a breakfast cupful of Mocha coffee into a stewpan 
with rather better than ^ pt. boiled milk ; add 8 yolks of 
eggs, a pinch of salt, and ^ lb sugar; stir the cream 
briskly on the fire until it begins to thickens; stir for a 
minute longer, and then run it through a sieve into a 
basin; add 2 ozs. dissolved gelatine; mix, and set the 
cream in a mould imbedded in rough ice. 

FRUIT CREAMS. 
These are made by adding a suflScient quantity of 



PASTRY CREAMS, BLANC MANGE, ETC. 83 

any kind of fruit, pureed (see Part 2, Chapter 1), to 1 
pt whipped cream and 2 ozs clarified isinglass; mix and 
with this fill a mould imbedded in rough ice; finish as 
for Bavarian Cream. 

ITALIAN CREAM. 
Put 4 ozs of ratafias into a stewpan with 8 yolks of 
eggs, a glass of curacoa, a bruised stick of cinnamon, 
some orange rind, 1 pt boiled milk, and 6 ozs sugar; stir 
the cream on the fire until it thickens; rub it through a 
hair sieve into a basin ; add 2 ozs dissolved gelatine, ^ 
pt whipped cream and 2 ozs each of preserved ginger, 
dried cherries and candied peel — all cut small; mix, and 
fill a mould imbedded in ice. 

PASTRY CREAM OR CUSTARD (1.) 
Boil i pt each of milk and cream with the peel of a 
lemon and some sugar; put this into a stewpan with the 
yolks of I doz eggs and two spoonfuls of flour; mix 
this with a wooden spoon and dilute with the above; 
stir this over the fire till it boils, working it well for 
five or six minutes; mix in ^ lb clarified butter with the 
paste; put into a basin and stir until cold; if it is too 
thick, add a little cream. 

PASTRY CREAM OR CUSTARD (2.) 

8 ozs flour. 1 qt cream or milk. 

8 ozs sugar. 2 spoonfuls orange flower 

4 ozs butter. water. 

2 ozs ratafias. Pinch salt. 

12 yolks of eggs. 

Mix the flour, sugar, and salt with two whole eggs, in 
a stewpan with a wooden spoon; add the cream and 
the batter, stirring the whole over the fire till it boils; 



84 PASTRY CREAMS, BLANC MANGE, ETC. 

it must then be ^Yell worked together to make it smooth. 
Withdraw the spoon, and after putting the lid on the 
stewpan, place the cream in the oven, or over a slow 
fire, to simmer gently for about 20 minutes; the cream 
must then be put into a basin and the bruised ratafias, 
the yolks of eggs and the orange flower water added. 
Put 8 ozs of butter into a small stewpan on the fire, and 
as soon as it begins to brown, add to the cream, and mix 
the whole thoroughly. 

The above cream is used to garnish various kinds of 
pastry. 

EOCK CREAM. 

Steam one cup of rice in new milk until tender; 
sweeten with white sugar and heap on a dish; lay over 
it small slices of jelly, or any preserved fruit; beat the 
whites of eggs to a froth with a little white sugar, and 
flavor with vanilla; add one tablespoouful of rich sweet 
cream and lay over the rice with a spoon, giving the 
form of a rock of snow. It is both ornamental and 
delicious. 

RUSSIAN CHARLOTTE. 
Trim about 6 ozs finger biscuits perfectly straight, so 
as to make them fit closely to one another, and line the 
bottom and sides of a plain mould with them; imbed 
the mould in rough ice; fill in with any fruit or other 
cream (to which add ^ pt whipped cream); when set 
turn it out on its dish. 

RUSSIA CREAM. 

Four eggs, ^ lb sugar, one qt milk, 2 ozs gelatine dis- 
solved in one-half pt of warm water. Beat the yolks of 



PASTRY CREAMS, BLANC UrANGE, ETC. 85 

the eggs and sugar together, and cook with the milk 
hke custard. Take oflf the stove and add the well- 
beaten whites of the eggs, stirring rapidly for a few 
moments; add the gelatine, and then a teaspoonful of 
vanilla. Pour it into a pretty-shaped dish to harden, 
and turn it out on a platter and cut ofif in blocks, as ice 
cream. Make this the day before it is to be used. 

TAPIOCA CREAM. 
After soaking three tablespoonfuls of tapioca in water 
for an hour, put it in a quart of milk, setting it in a 
kettle of boiling water, and cooking until soft, stirring 
often. Beat the yolks of four eggs with 2 or 3 ozs of 
white sugar; stir it into the milk with a little salt; 
divide the four whites, beat them to a stiff froth; have 
two of them ready to stir into the tapioca as soon as 
done, taking from the fire before stirring them in, and 
flavor with vanilla. Beat the two remaining whites to a 
stiff froth, and place them over boiling water, letting 
them stand until hard, and then spread over the top. 
Eaten cold. 

VANILLA CREAM WITH FRUIT SAUCE. 
Make a custard with a pint of rich milk and the yolks 
of 5 eggs, about \ It) sugar, and vanilla to taste. 
When this custard thickens take it off the fire, and add, 
while still hot, about 2 ozs of gelatine previously dis- 
solved in cold v/ater. Wet a mould, pour in the cream, 
and set on ice. When set turn it out on a deep dish, 
arrange a bunch of tine candied cherries on top, and 
pour around it a sauce made of red cherries stewed, 
sweetened, strained and slightly thickened with corn 
starch. 



86 PASTRY CREAMS, BLANC MANGE, ETC. 

VELVET CEEAM. 
Put into a pan 1 oz isinglass, ^ pt sherry, the juice of 
a lemon and half the rind, with two or three ounces of 
sugar. Let it boil gently until the isinglass is melted, 
and strain through a piece of muslin into a pint and a 
half of cream. Keep stirring until nearly cold, and put 
into moulds, first wet with clear water. 

WHIPPED CREAM (1.) 
Whip 1 pt or more of double cream with a whisk un- 
til stiff; sweeten very slightly and flavor to taste. Care 
must be taken not to over-whip the cream, as it would 
then produce butter. 

WHIPPED CREAM (2.^ 

12 eggs. 10 drops each of essence 

1 qt cream. lemon, orange and 

^ pt pale sherry. musk, to flavor. 

Whisk to a froth; remove the latter onto a sieve; fill 
glasses with the cream; pile the froth on top of them. 



CHAPTER IX. 

PUFFS. 

Apple Pasty— Banbury Puffs (1)— Banbury Puffs (2)— Claires- 
Coventry Puffs — Cream Puffs — French Puffs— Fried Pies — 
Petits Choux— Pelits Choux a la Creme — Potato Puffs — 
Raspberry Puffs - Spanish PuSs —Three Cornered Puffs— 
Turn-over Puffs. 

APPLE PASTY, OR TURNOVER. 

Make a short crust with half a pound of flour, two 
ounces of butter, two ounces of lard, and a little salt. 
Rub the butter thoroughly into the four, mix it with 
very little water, and roll it out thin on the pastry board. 
Stamp out with a small cutter as many rounds as there 
are pasties to be made. Moisten the inside of the round; 
lay stewed apples, sweetened and flavored, on one half, 
and lift the other half right over it. Press the edges, 
and bake in a quick oven. A plain and very nice crust 
may be made with good beef drippings and a little baking 
powder. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. Make a 
dozen pasties. 

BANBURY PUFFS (1 ) 

Roll out the puff paste and cut it the sizes required, 
with a cake cutter; form an oval puff with the hand; 
put some meat in the middle; turn them over and lay 
them together; dust over them some powdered sugar, 
and bake in a moderate oven. 

The meat for Banbury Puffs is made according to re- 
quirements and ingredients at command. The following 
will mak^ a good mixture for this purpose: Chopped 



88 PUFFS. 

apples, candied peel cut fine, bruised currants, and 
crumbled stale sweet cake; mix the whole with a little 
molasses or moist sugar; shake mixed spice over the lot. 

BANBURY PUFFS (2.) 

Cut the paste as directed for Coventry Puffs, without 
rolling it thin; lay some Banbury meat in the middle, 
and fold up the edges of the paste, so as to form an 
oval puff ; this is done by pressing more of the paste 
together at the ends than in the centre; turn them and 
dust the tops well M'ith loaf sugar dust; bake in a 
moderate oven. 

Banbury Meat (1.) — Cream, | ft) buttei*, and mix with 
1 lb moist sugar, | ib flour, and ^ ft) of candied oi-ange 
and lemon peels, cut up fine, 2 ft)S chopped currants and 
^ oz mixed spices; keep in a jar for use. 

Banbury Meat ( 2.) — Crumble together stale Savoy 
pound cake, or sweet biscuits ; mix with chopped 
apples, currants, candied peels (cut fine), mixed spices, 
a little butter, sugar and lemon zest; moisten the whole 
with thin raspberry jam or molasses; mix according to 
taste, making it richer or poorer according to judgment; 
press the whole into a jar and keep for use. 

CLAIRES. 
Prepare the batter as for Cream Puffs; then with a 
spoon lay out the " Claires " on pans, about five inches in 
length, and about the thickness of the thumb, and bake 
them. These require no washing, as they are covered 
with icing of some kind. When baked, cut them open 
lengthwise, the same as for Cream Puffs, and fill them 
with cream. The neatest way of filling them is to 
fill a bag, with a tube to it, with the cream, then insert 



PUFFS. 89 

the end of the tube into the "Claires," and fill in that 
way. When filled, proceed to ice them. They are 
generally covered with a thick coating oi chocolate. 

COVENTRY PUFFS. 
Roll out the paste about ^ inch thick and cut in square 
pieces of any desired size; roll out rather thin; put 
some raspberry jam in the centre and fold up the sides 
to form a three-cornered puff; turn it over, notch the 
edges with a knife, and ice them, by first washing them 
over with the white of an egg, that has been whisked to 
a froth; dust thf m well with finely powdered loaf sugar, 
and with a briish sprinkle them with clean water, just 
sufficiently to moisten the sugar. If sprinkled too much, 
they will appear as if not iced at all, as it washes the 
sugar off again. 

CREAM PUFFS. 

, 1^ lbs flour. 1 lb lard or butter. 

1 qt water or milk. 26 eggs. 

Boil the water and lard a couple of minutes; stir the 
flour in quickly; take it from the fire and mix in the 
eggs, three or four at a time; butter the pans well, and 
drop with a spoon the size wanted; bake in a hot oven. 
When baked, they will be hollow inside; cut them open 
and fill with pastry cream. 

FRENCH PUFFS. 

Use same batter as for Cream Puffs and flavor 
with vanilla; drop with a spoon, pieces the size of a 
walnut, in a kettle of hot lard; when done, take out with 
a skimmer; let them drain; split them in the middle 
with a sharp knife; put currant jelly inside, and sugar 
them over the top; to be eaten warm. 



90 PUFFS. 

FKIED PIES. 
Take ordinary doughnut dough; roll out thin pieces 
about the size of a walnut; wet round the edges: put 
stewed apples or other fruit in the centre; double over; 
press the edges down and trim with a cutter to desired 
size; fry in hot lard. 

PETITS CHOUX. 

6 ozs butter. ^ pt water. 

2 ozs white sugar. Pinch salt. 

^ stick vanilla. 

Put into a stewpan over the fire and when it begins to 
boil, stir in 3 tablespoons of flour; continue stirring it 
over the fire, keeping it cleared from the bottom of the 
stewpan until it becomes a tough paste; take it from the 
fire and stir in gradually 7 or 8 eggs; work well into the 
paste; butter a baking sheet, and lay the paste upon it 
in pieces the size of an English walnut; egg them over; 
sugar them and bake them in a moderate oven; when 
baked and cold, open a lid at the top of each, and fill it 
with jam or marmalade; replace the lid and serve upon 
a napkin. 

PETITS CHOUX A LA CREME. 
Put about 1 pt of water into a saucepan with a few 
grains of salt, a pat of butter, sugar to taste, with 
plenty of grated lemon peel. When the water boils, 
throw into it gradually flour enough to form a thick 
paste; take it off the fire, let it remain ten minutes, and 
work into it three or four eggs. Butter a baking sheet 
and lay the paste upon it in neat little heaps, about one 
teaspoon to each. Bake a nice color in a moderate oven; 
take them out, sprinkle powdered sugar over them, and 



PUFFS. 91 

put them in again for a few minutes. Make an in- 
cision in the under side of each, and insert a small piece 
of jam or jelly, or some pastry cream or custard. 

POTATO PUFFS. 

Two large cups of cold, mashed potato, two spoonfuls 
of melted butter, two well-beaten eggs, a cup of milk, 
and salt to taste. Mix the butter with the potato and 
beat smooth. Then add the other ingredients, beat well; 
put into a deep dish and brown in a quick oven. Serve 
at once. 

EASPBEKRY PUFFS. 

Proceed precisely the same as for open tarts, rolling 
them out thin, about six inches in diameter; place a tea- 
spoonful of raspberry preserves on each, a little from 
the centre, spread it a little, and then bring the back 
part over on the preserve, keeping it back a little from 
the front edge, for if it laps over, the bottom edge is pre- 
vented from raising. It is best to allow the top edge to 
lie back from the front edge at least one-fourth of an 
inch. This folding forms a half circle. This being 
done, wash them with water, or egg and water, and dust 
them with powdered sugar. Also cut a few deep but 
short cuts across the top — over where the preserve 
lays — when baked the preserve shows through. 

SPANISH PUFFS. 

Make some paste as for Petits Clioux a la Creme, and 
with the fingers or with a teaspoon lay this out in the 
form of round balls, the size of walnuts, on sheets of 
buttered paper; these being held at one end, must be 
immersed in hot frying fat, to be gently shaken oflF. 
As they are frying, they are to be carefully moved about 



92 PUFFS. 

with a draining spoon, until they are done of a light 
color, and have increased four times their original size; 
they must then be drained on a wire sieve, dished up on a 
napkin, some sugar dredged over them, and served im- 
mediately. 

THREE-CORNERED PUFFS. 

Roll out a thin sheet of paste and cut it with a cake 
docker, according to the size the puffs are to be made; 
put a tablespoon of thin raspberry or other jam in the 
middle; turn up the sides in three places, forming a 
peak at the top; turn them over, and place them on the 
board, side by side, fitting in closely to each other; 
whisk the white of an egg and wash the puffs all over 
with it, laying it on with a brush; dredge them all over 
with powdered sugar; just before putting them into the 
oven sprinkle them over with water. 

TURN-OVER PUFFS. 

Roll out some puff paste | inch thick; cut into pieces 
with a round-scolloped cutter, or into square pieces with 
a knife; put a little jam or preserve into the centre of 
each; fold or double them over; press down the thumb 
a little on each side of the jam to close them; ice as 
directed for Coventry Puffs, and bake in a moderate oven. 



CHAPTEE X. 

CUSTARDS. 

General Directions — Almond Custaid— Baked Custard — Discolor- 
ations on Cnstard Cups— Boiled Custard, (1) — Boiled Custard, 
(2)— Burnt Custard — Cake Custards — Caramel Custards — 
Chocolate Custards — Chocolate Uustard, Baked — Chocolate 
Custards, Boiled-- Oatmeal Custard — Rice Custard — Straw- 
berry Custard— Sweet Potato Custard— Tapioca Custard. 

For several good ways of making custards see the 
second part of this work under the chapters treating of 
steamed, boiled and baked puddings. See also this 
part under Pie and Tart Fillings. A few special recipes 
are, however, given below. 

For custards use only perfectly fresh eggs. Custards 
should not be allowed to boil. 

ALMOND CUSTARD. 

Blanch and beat fine 8 ozs. almonds with a spoonful 
of water. Beat 1 qt. of cream with a little rose-water 
and put to the yolks of 8 eggs; sweeten to taste and add 
the almonds; stir over a slovv fire till it is of a proper 
thickness; do not let it boil; pour it into cups. 

BAKED CUSTARD; 

Made with a pint of milk, two or three eggs, two 
tablespoonfuls of sugar, a pinch of salt, a teaspoonful of 
flavoring, and a grating of nutmeg, baked in cups set in 
a pan of water and served in the same cups, accom- 
panied by plain cake, is as good as it is simple. The 
excellence depends on the baking, which should be 



94 CUSTARDS. 



done slowly. Three eggs make the best custard, but 
two will answer. 

DISCOLORITIONS ON CUSTARD CUPS. 
To take the brown discolorations off of cups in which 
custards are baked, rub with damp flannel dipped in 
best whiting. Scouring-sand or sand-soap will answer 
the purpose. 

BOILED CUSTARD, (1). 
Boil a quart of new milk with sugar, a piece of cinna- 
mon and lemon-peel, and a bay-leaf. Mix a tablespoon- 
ful of ground rice with a little cold milk, and the beat 
yolks of four or six eggs. Stir the whole gradually into 
the boiling milk in a basin, then put it in a saucepan 
and thicken over the fire, but not boil. Pour it into a 
cold dish and stir one way till cool. 

BOILED CUSTARD, (2). 

1 qt. milk. Pinch salt, 

3 eggs well beaten, 2 tablespoons corn starch. 

Heat the milk nearly to boiling; add the starch pre- 
viously dissolved, the eggsy and sugar to taste; let it 
boil up once or twice, stirring briskly; flavor to taste. 

BURNT CUSTARD. 
1 quart of milk, 5 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar, nut- 
meg and flavoring extract to taste. Scald the milk, but 
not to boiling; beat eggs light with the sugar, and pour 
upon them the hot milk. Mix well, and bake in a well- 
buttered dish; turn out when cold; strew very thickly 
with white sugar. Set the plate containing the custard 
upon the upper grating of a hot oven. The sugar 



CUSTARDS. 95 



will melt, and run in brown streams all over the 
moulded pudding. Slip carefully to a dish, and eat cold. 

CAKE CUSTARDS 

Moisten two cupfuls of stale cake with a custard 
made of one pint of milk, four eggs, and two tablespoon- 
fuls of sugar; put into buttered cups, set them in a pan 
with enough hot water to reach half way to the brim, 
and bake in a moderate oven until the custard is firm. 
They may be served in the cups or may be turned out 
and dusted with powdered sugar; any kind of pudding 
eauce preferred may be served with them. 

CARAMEL CUSTARDS. 

Put a handful of loaf-sugar in a sauce-pan with a lit- 
tle water, and set it on the fire until it becomes a dark- 
brown caramel : then add more water (boiling), to pro- 
dace a dark liquor like strong coffee. Beat up the 
yolks of six eggs with a little milk; strain, add one pint 
of milk (sugar to taste) and as much caramel liquor 
(cold) as will give the mixture the desired color. Pour 
it into a well-buttered mould, put this in a bain marie 
with cold water, then place the apparatus on a gentle 
fire, taking care that the water does not boil. Half an 
hour's steaming will set the custard, which then turn 
out and serve. By using the white of one or two eggs 
in addition to the six yolks, the chances of the custard 
not breaking are made more certain. 

CHOCOLATE CUSTARDS. 
One quart of milk; one ounce of best French choco- 
late; eight eggs; two teaspoonfuls of vanilla; sugar to 
taste. Beat the eight yolks and the two whites of the 



96 CUSTARDS. 



eggs until they are light. Boil the milk; when boiling 
stir the chocolate and the sugar into it, and then put 
it into a clean pitcher. Place this in a pot of boiling 
water; stir one way gently all the time until it becomes 
a thick cream; when cold strain it and add the vanilla; 
place it in cups; beat the whites of the eggs to a stifi 
froth, and add the sugar to them; beat well, and place 
some of this frosting on the top of each custard. 

CHOCOLATE CUSTARD— BAKED. 

1 qt. milk, 1 oz. grated French choc- 

■^ doz. eggs, yolks & whites olate, 

separated, Vanilla flavoring. 

Scald the milk ; stir in the chocolate and simmer two 
minutes, to dissolve and incorporate well with the milk. 
Beat up the yolks with the sugar and put into the hot 
mixture. Stir for one minute before seasoning and 
pouring into the cups, which should be set ready in a 
pan of boiling water. They should be half submerged, 
that the water may not bubble over the tops. Cook 
slowly about twenty minutes, or until the custards are 
firm. When cold, whip the whites of the eggs to a mer- 
ingue with a very little powdered sugar (most meringues 
are too sweet) and pile some upon the top of each cup. 
Put a piece of red jelly on the meringue. 

CHOCOLATE CUSTARDS— BOILED 

One quart of milk ; six eggs, whites and yolks separ- 
ately beaten; J lb sugar; 1 oz grated chocolate; vanilla to 
taste, a teaspoonful to the pint being a good rule. Scald 
the milk, stir in sugar and chocolate. Boil gently five 
minutes, and add the yolks. Cook five minutes more, 
or until it begins to thicken up well, stirring all the 



CUSTARDS. 97 



time. When nearly cold beat in the flavoring, and 
whisk all briskly for a minute before pouring into the 
custard cups. Whip up the whites with a little pow- 
dered sugar, or what is better, half a cup of currant or 
cranberry jelly, and heap upon the custards. 

OATMEAL CUSTARD. 

Take two tablespoonfuls of the finest Scotch oatmeal, 
beat up in sufiicient cold water to run freely, add the 
beaten yolk of a fresh egg; have a pint of scalding new 
milk on the fire. Pour the mixture into it, stirring 
thoroughly; add sugar to taste, and a glass of sherry 
with a little grated nutmeg: Pour out in dish and take 
warm in bed. It will be found very grateful in colds 
and chills. 

RICE CUSTARD, 
Is made of one quart of sweet milk, two-thirds of a 
cup of uncooked rice, and a little salt. Put this in tea 
or coffee cups, set them in the steamer over a kettle of 
boiling water. Let it cook until the rice is almost like 
jelly. When cold turn it out of the cup. Serve with 
sugar and cream or with pudding sauce. 

STRAWBERRY CUSTARD. 

Make boiled custard of a quart of milk and the yolks 
of five eggs properly sweetened. Boil till it thickens to 
the right consistency, take it off the fire, and put in the 
flavoring. Take a gill of sugar and a pint of ripe straw- 
berries; crush them together and pass through a fine 
strainer. Take the whites of four of the eggs, and while 
beating them to a stiff froth add a gill of sugar, a little 
at a time. Then to the sugar and eggs add the sweet- 
7 



98 



CUSTARDS. 



ened strawberry juice, beating all the while to keep it 
stiff. This makes a beautiful pink float, which is to be 
placed on top of the custard. 

SWEET POTATO CUSTAKD. 
Boil 8 flbs prime sweet potatoes; pGel them, and force 
them through a sieve; add ^ lb butter, 1 gal. milk, 1 lb 
sugar, and 1| doz. eggs; flavor with cinnamon; beat the 
whole for a few minutes and bake in deep dish lined 
with paste. 

TAPIOCA CUSTARD. 
One teacupful of tapioca dissolved in water over 
night. Beat 3 eggs and ^ lb of sugar together, and 
stir into the tapioca; add 1 quart of sweet milk; 
stir well; bake in a pudding dish until the custard 
thickens. 



APPENDIX. 



AliMOND CHEESE CUED PUDDING. 
Blanch and pound ^ ft sweet almonds and 8 bitter 
ones, with one glass of orange-flower water; add J ft 
sugar, J pt. cream, and the whites of two eggs beat 
stiff; bake as for cheese curd pudding. 

CHEESE CUBD PUDDING OE CHEESECAKE. 

Mix with the dry beat curd of 3 pts. milk, 6 ozs. of 
well washed and picked currants, sugar to taste, a little- 
lemon zest, and the yolks of 4 eggs beat in ^ pt. scalded 
cream, and 1 glass of brandy; mix well and put into a 
tourte tin lined with puff paste; bake, and serve with a 
dust of sugar. 

To make the curd, put new milk into a clean pan and 
set it by the side of the fire so that it will keep blood 
warm; put a spoonful of rennet into it, not too much, or 
it will make the curd hard and the whey very salt; in a 
short time it will separate into curd and whey; cut the 
former into small pieces with a knife. 

A large variety of cheesecakes may be made from the 
above recipe by the addition of proper flavors and ma- 
terials. 

DOEOTHY'S CUED PUDDING. 
Bon with lemon peel and cinnamon, 1 qt. of milk or 
eream; add to it 8 eggs; sweeten and flavor with rum; 



100 APPENDIX. 



stir and let it boil until it curdles, and until the whey is 
completely separated; then drain it on a sieve, and put 
into a mould with holes in it, to let the whey drain 
wholly off; when firm, turn it out, and serve with cold 
sauce. 

EGG CHEESE CUKD PUDDING. 
Boil with lemon peel and cinnamon, 1 qt. milk or 
cream; add 8 eggs well beat and a little salt; sweeten 
and flavor with two glasses of rum; stir and let this 
boil until it curdles, and the whey is completely separ- 
ated; drain it well on a sieve, add | Bb butter, put into 
a dish lined with pufif paste, and bake. 

LEMON CHEESE CUED PUDDING. 

Cut into slices four sponge biscuits, and soak them in 
a gill of cream; add the zest and juice of three lemons, 
with 4 ft) each of butter and sugar, a 1 ttle mixed spice 
and three eggs; bake as for Cheese Curd pudding, deco- 
rating with candied lemon peel. 

ORANGE CHEESE CURD PUDDING. 

Proceed with oranges as for Lemon Cheese Curd Pud- 
ding; decorate with candied orange peel. 

POTATO CHEESE CURD PUDDING. 
Boil or roast -^ fl> good mealy potatoes; take off their 
skins and press them fine; then reduce J lb good butter 
to a cream; mix this with the yolks of 3 eggs, 3 ozs. 
powdered loaf sugar, a piece of stale savoy or pound 
cake crumbled, and a little essence of lemon; mix as 
for pound cake, adding the potato pulp after the butter 
and sugar, using a few currants if desirable. 



APPENDIX. 101 

CUSTAKD PUDDING— BAKED. 
Put 1 pt. milk into a stewpan with half a stick of cin- 
namon, the rind of a lemon, and three cloves; bring this 
to a boil, and strain it over 4 yolks and 4 whole egga 
beat; mix well with the whisk, adding one glass each of 
brandy, rum and noyeau, and a little pineapple syrup; 
bake slowly in a buttered dish, and serve with whipt 
cream in a boat. 

CUSTAED PUDDING— STEAMED. 
Beat fifteen yolks of eggs; add this to 1 pt. cream, ^ 
pt. milk, a little sugar, and a pinch of salt; put into a 
prepared mould; place in a stewpan with a Uttle boiling 
water; cover, and steam at the corner of the stove until 
set, but by no means allow the water to boil. 

TO BLANCH ALMONDS, PISTACHIOS, ETC. 

Boil over the fire some water, with a pinch of salt; 
when boiling, throw in the almonds, pistachios, etc. ; in a 
little more than a minute the skins if tried will come off 
freely; remove from the fire, throw on a sieve, pour cold 
water over them, and skin or blanch. 

PUREES. 
A puree of fruits is fruit cooked according to recipe, 
and passed through a sieve; and sometimes, as for ripe, 
fleshy fruits, such as ripe apricots, strawberries, etc., 
passed through raw. The term puree applies also to 
nuts, meat or fish; but these are not generally passed 
through raw. 

USE OF THE SALAMANDER. 
This is a thick and heavy piece of iron with a long 



102 APPENDIX. 



handle; it is made red hot in the fire, and is used to 
brown the tops of cakes, puddings, etc., when so di- 
rected; if sweet, the cake, pudding, etc., must be dusted 
with sugar, and if a cheese pudding, it must be sprin- 
kled with grated Parmesan cheese, bread crumbs, or a 
few bits of butter, before the salamander is applied. 

ENGLISH MINCE MEAT. 

25 Bbs. beef. J fe ground nutmCg. 

8 lbs. suet. 2 ozs. " mace. 

I bbl. apples. 1^ gals, molasses. 

6 ibs. muscatel raisins. 1 gal. brandy. 

4 fcs. seedless " 1 " Maderia wine. 

7 Bbs. currants. 2 gals, boiled cider. 

4 ibs. citron. 6 lemon rinds, peeled thin 

•^ S) ground cloves. and chopped fine. 

Chop the beef, suet and apples very fine; mix all well 
together, and let stand two weeks before using. 



Bmd or Past I. 



THE COMPLETE 



^mM pagtr'ij Gool^, 



— »— 



THREE PARTS. 



u-' 



PART II. 

Sweet Sauces and Puddings. 



CHICAGO: 
J, Thoupbok Gill, Makaoeb Confectiokeb and Bakeb Pdblishinq Go. 

1888. 



Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1889, by 

The Confectioner a.sd Baker Publishing Co. 

In the office of Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 

All Rights Reserved. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTEK I. 

Page. 
Moulds, Flavors and other j\Iaterials used for Sweet 

Puddiugs . 5 

CHAPTER II. 
Sweet Sauces for Puddings 12 

CHAPTER III. 
Steamed Puddings 24 

CHAPTER IV. 
Boiled Puddings 36 

CHAPTER V. 
Baked Puddings 58 

CHAPTER VI. 
Pastry Cream Puddiugs 79 

CHAPTER VII. 
Sweet Souffles.. 87 

CHAPTER VIII. 
Dumplings . '- 97 

CHAPTER IX. 
Cold Puddiugs — Diplomatic Puddiugs 101 

CHAPTER X. 
Fried Puddings 109 

CHAPTEK XI. 
Fritters.. - 113 

CHAPTER XII. 
Pancakes 120 

CHAPTER XIII. 
Miscellaneous Articles of Sweet Pastry 126 

CHAPTER XIV. 
Miscellaneous Puddings 130 



CHAPTER I. 

Moulds, Flavors, and Other Materials 
Used for Sweet Puddings. 

IVIOULDS AND DISHES. 

Plain pudding- moulds are made of copper, tinned on 
the inside, or of plain tin, either round or oval. 

Plain dariole moulds are miniature ones of the same 
class. 

Boudin moulds are a kind of oblong, plain copper 
mould, tinned inside, or of plain tin, with or without 
flutes. 

A souffle dish consists of a silver case, with an interior 
lining; the souffle is baked or iced in the prepared lining, 
being served in the silver case. 

Special i)udding tins, pudding basins, earthenware 
pudding moulds and dishes, etc., need only to be men- 
tioned. 

TO PREPARE A PLAIN MOULD FOR PUDDINGS. 

Batter the interior of around or oval plain mould; 
cut a piece of foolscap paper to fit it at the bottom; but- 
ter this; decorate the interior, if approved, with fruits, 
etc., and use for baked, boiled or stewed puddings, as 
directed. 

TO PREPARE SOUFFLE CASES FOR HOT OR 
COLD SOUFFLES. 
Butter the interior of the souffle lining; tie and pin 



PUDDING MOUDLS, FLAVORS, ETC. 



round it a double band of buttered paper, about 7 or 8 
inches in height; when ready to serve, remove the 
paper and put the lining into the silver dish. 

USE OF THE SALAMANDER FOR PUDDINGS. 

This is a thick and heavy piece of iron with a long 
handle; is made red hot in the fire, and is used to brown 
the tops of puddings, etc., when so directed; if sweet, 
the pudding must be dusted with sugar, and if a cheese 
pudding, it must be sprinkled with grated Parmesan 
cheese, bread crumbs, or a few bits of butter, before the 
salamander is applied. 

Hints on PUDDING CONDIMENTS, FLAVORS, Etc. 

As a general rule, a little salt should be added to all 
sweet puddings, and in most cases a little sugar to all 
savory ones; essences are good and useful, but should be 
used carefully; flour should be sifted before it is used; 
when not otherwise mentioned in the recipe the sugar 
should be the best loaf, pounded and passed through a 
hair seive; fresh butter is the best, particularly for the 
more delicate sort of puddings. Great care should be 
taken in using eggs, as a single musty one will spoil any 
of the puddings. 

SAVARIN FOR PUDDINGS. 

Weigh 1 lb flour; mix 1 oz. German yeast in a basin 
with a little luke-warm water and a little flour, to the 
consistency of cream; put it in a warm place to I'ise; 
melt 10 ozs. of butter to a sort of cream, beat this to a 
smooth paste with the flour, with ^ doz. whole eggs and 
4 yolks, 2 ozs. sugar and a little salt; then beat in the 
sponge; cover over with a cloth, and let this rise; when 



PUDDING Moulds, FiiAvoRS, etc. 



well risen put into a plain mould prepared as for souffle; 
put onto a baking sheet with a bed of salt under the 
mould to prevent the bottom from burning; bake in a 
moderately quick oven. 

SAVOY CAKE FOR PUDDINGS. 

1 lb sugar, f lb flour, 

10 eggs. Zest of a lemon. 

Beat together the sugar, eggs and zest; stir in the 
flour lightly with a wooden spoon ; put the mixture into 
a mould, the interior of which has been brushed over 
with clarified butter mixed with a very little flour; the 
mould is then dusted with fine sugar, and a buttered 
double paper band fastened round the top; bake in a 
moderate oven. 

GENOISE FOR PUDDINGS. 

Cream 1 lb. butter with a wooden spoou; stir in 1 lb 
sugar and 10 eggs, (one at a time) ; thoroughly mix in 
IJ lbs flour and a little lemon zest, or other flavors; 
spread this batter on a baking sheet with a turned up 
edge, which has been previously buttered, papered, re- 
buttered and floured; bake in a moderate oven and use 
as directed. 

MERIN.GUE FOR PUDDINGS. 
Beat up very fine the fresh whites of ^ doz. eggs; stir 
in i lb sugar, lightly; make this into spoon meringues, or 
any other form according to recipe. 

PETITS CHOUX FOR PUDDINGS. 

Put J pt. water into a stewpan with a pat of butter; 
add to this while boiling, j^ lb flour, and stir with a 



PUDDINa MOULDS, FLAVORS, ETC. 



wooden spoon until it detaches from the sides of the 
stewpan; then remove from the fire and stir in 3 or 4 
eggs, one at a time; flavor or season according to recipe. 

PASTRY CREAM FOR PUDDINGS. 

Boil ^ pt. of cream and the same of milk with the peel 
of a lemon and some sugar; put this into a stewpan with 
the yolks of ^ doz. eggs, and two spoonsful of flour; mix 
this with a wooden spoon, and dilute with the above; stir 
this over the fire until it boils, and work it well for five 
or six minutes; then mix in ^Ib clarified butter with the 
paste; put it into a basin and stir until cold; if it is too 
thick add a little cream. 

CARAAIEL SUGAR FOR PUDDINGS. 

Put into a copper sugar boiler about 1^ lbs broken 
sugar, adding sufiicient water to soak it; when dissolved 
put it on a quick fire with a cover over it, and boil down 
very rapidly; have ready a small basin of water with a 
lump of ice in it, and half a lemon and an iron spoon by 
the side; and as it reduces, try it by dipping the handle 
of the spoon into the sugar, from thence into the water 
and ice; when near the crack (which is the case when it 
breaks with a snap between the fingers), put in half a 
teaspoon of lemon juice; try it again quickly, remove 
from the fire and it is ready for use. ' 

VANILLA SUGAR FOR PUDDINGS. 

Cut up three sticks of vanilla into small pieces; pound 
in a mortar with J lb lump sugar; pass it through a hair 
seive; then beat the dregs with another J lb lump sug:ii 
which pass as before; put into a canister for use. 



I 



PUDDING MOULDS, FLAVORS, ETC. 



ZEST OF ORANGE OR LEMON FOR PUDDINGS. 

Rub an orange equally all over on the rough part of a 
rather large lump of loaf sugar; scrape this ofi with a 
knife, and use for puddings as directed. Proceed in the 
same manner for lemon zest. 

TO CUT ORANGE AND LEMON PEEL FOR PUD- 
DINGS. 

When orange or lemon peel is required, care should be 
taken to cut it very thin with a sharp knife; the zest of 
the rind is contained in a number of very small cells all 
over the surface, to liberate which, for the sake of its 
flavor, it is necessary to cut the peel thin, so as to divide 
or open these cells, and thus obtain their essence; there- 
fore peel cut thick is not of the slightest use for culinary 
purposes. 

TO BLANCH ALMONDS, PISTACHIOS, ETC. 

Boil over the fire some water, with a pinch of salt; 
when boiling, throw in the almonds, pistachios, etc. ; in 
a little more than a minute the skins if tried will come 
off freely; remove from the fire, throw on a seive, pour 
cold water over them, and skin and blanch. 

PUREES. 

A puree of fruits is fruit cooked according to recipe 
and passed through a sieve; and sometimes, as for ripe, 
fleshy fruits, such as ripe apricots, strawberries, etc., 
passed through raw. The term puree applies also to 
nuts, meat or fish; but these are not generally passed 
through raw. 



10 PUDDING MOULDS, FLAVORS, ETC. 

COMPOTE OF ORANGES FOR VARIOUS PUD- 
DINGS. 

Cut up with a sharp knife six or eight oranges with the 
skin on, each one into six divisions; cut away the skin 
and white part with one cut; make one cut across the 
edge, cut away the pips; trim the pieces slightly, and 
put them into a basin with pounded sugar for an hour or 
two. 

COMPOTE OF CHERRIES FOR VARIOUS PUD- 
DINGS. 

Stone the cherries, put them in a copper pan with 
pounded sugar, and boil for about five minutes; take the 
cherries out and put them into a flat dish; put the juice 
on the fire again, adding a glass of noyeau and a little 
lemon juice; color with cochineal; when it comes to a 
boil thicken with arrowroot; pour it over the cherries 
and let it cool for use. 

GOOSEBERRY AND RHUBARB FOOL FOR PUD- 
DINGS. 

Put 3 pts. green gooseberries into a copper preserving 
pan with cold water, and a tablespoon of salt to preserve 
the color; set them over a slow fire to simmer until ten- 
der; strain and puree them; put the puree over the fire 
with about | lb sugar; put this into a basin, and then 
reduce the consistency with cream. Proceed in the same 
manner for rhubarb. 

CARAMEL FRUITS FOR PUDDINGS. 

To caramel fruits they must be very dry, such as 
cherries, grapes, etc. ; cut the stalks short, just leaving 
room enough to hold them by; dip them in caramel 



PUDDING MOULDS, FLAVORS, ETC. 11 

sugar, strain at the side of the sugar boiler, and place 
each one carefully on an oiled slab or baking sheet; when 
cold, cut ofi" the stalks, and build them in a plain mould 
slightly oiled, sticking them with the caramel sugar. 

CARAMEL ORANGES FOR PUDDINGS. 

Take the peel and white part off 1 doz. dividing oran- 
ges; carefully divide them with the fingers, and put them 
in a sieve; dip each piece in melted caramel sugar; put 
on an oiled slab or baking sheet; when cold, build them 
in an oiled mould with caramel sugar. The divisions cf 
orange should be lelt on the sieve for three or four hours 
to dry before they are used. 



CHAPTER n. 
Sweet Sauces for Puddings. 

There is a great variety of ways of making sauces for 
puddings, but the general principles may be briefly illus- 
trated as follows: 

Take, say 2 qts. of water; boil in a saucepan, one stick 
of whole cinnamon, and one sliced lemon; let it boil for 
three or four minutes; take J lb butter, ^ ft or more 
brown sugar (beat together as for cake); add to this 2 
ozs. flour or corn starch; put it into the water and stir 
briskly for one minute, until it becomes of the consist- 
ency of thick cream, taking care that it does not burn. 
If the cinnamon is left out it will be lemon sauce; or 
leave out the lemon and it is cinnamon sauce; leave out 
both and flavor with brandy, wine, rum, etc., for brandy, 
wine and rum sauce, etc. 

The above sauce, owing to the presence of the butter, 
is too rich for many persons, and the following sauce is 
one which will give more general satisfaction : Take one 
sliced lemon and 2 qts. water (boil from three to five 
minutes), | ft brown sugar, sifted with two ozs. of corn 
starch ; stir into the boiling water until it colors or thick- 
ens, when it is ready for use. 

This latter sauce can be made into any kind of wine or 
brandy, or lemon sauce, that suits; or it can be made 
strong with liquor; or if there are temperance people 
who object to the use of liquor, the spirits can be dis- 
pensed with in a part or the whole sauce. For brandy 



SWEET SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS. 13 

sauce, use a little caramel for coloring; for rum, use no 
color; for sherry wine, a little caramel; cochineal is ap- 
propriate for port or claret; for champagne sauce, in 
place of brown sugar, use granulated with more lemons 
to give it the required color. 

ALMOND AND RAISIN SAUCE. 

Soak 3 ozs. of the best dried raisins in brandy for four 
hours; cut up in fillets, or chop, 2 ozs. of blanched al- 
monds; throw these into an ari'owroot sauce. 

ALMOND SAUCE. 

Blance and pound to a paste in a little milk 2 ozs. al- 
monds; add this during the process of making to a cus- 
tard of ^ pt. cream, 3 yolks of eggs, and ^ glass of noyeau; 
sweeten to taste. 

APPLE JELLY SAUCE. 

Melt a pot of apple jelly with two glasses of sherry; 
add lemon juice and syrup to taste. 

APPLE SAUCE. 

Add a little lemon zest in the making of a puree of six 
apples; dilute this with cream. 

APRICOT JAM SAUCE. 

Pass a pot of apricot jam through a sieve; add the 
juice of a lemon, two glasses of sherry, and a little syrup; 
make this hot and serve. 

APRICOT SAUCE. 

Pass six apricots through a sieve; mix with some syr- 
up, half a glass of brandy, and a little lemon juice; stir 
altogether over the fire for a few minutes. 



14 SWEET SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS. 

AREOWEOOT SAUCE. 

Mix some Bermuda arrowroot in a little cold water; 
add this according to judgment to any boiling liquid 
which requires thickening with arrowroot. 

BLACK CHEEEY SAUCE (1). 

Proceed as for red cherry sauce, using black-heart 
cherries, and omitting the cochineal. 

BLACK CHEEEY SAUCE (2). 

Proceed as for red cherry sauce, with ^ lb black-heart 
cherries, adding the juice of half a lemon. 

BLACK CHEEEY AEEOWEOOT SAUCE. 

Proceed as for red cherry arrowroot sauce, using black- 
heart cherries, and omitting the cochineal. 

BLACK CUEEANT SAUCE. 

Stew 1 pint black currants with 6 ozs. sugar, 1 glass 
of sherry, and a little lemon, for five or six minutes over 
the fire. 

BLACK CUEEANT JELLY SAUCE. 
Proceed with black currants as for red currant jelly 
sauce, using a glass of port wine. 

BLACK GEAPE SAUCE. 

Proceed as for white grape sauce, substituting black 
grapes and a glass of port wine instead of sherry. 

BLOOD OEANGE SAUCE. 

Port wine arrowroot Scauce with cochineal, and just 
before serving throw in a compote of six blood oranges. 



SWEET SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS. 15 

BRANDY ARROWROOT SAUCE. 

Proceed as for wine arrowroot sauce, using a glass of 
brandy and the juice of half a lemon. 

BRANDY PLUM PUDDING SAUCE. 

Make some good melted butter with milk; sweeten to 
taste, and add two glasses of brandy. 

BROWN BREAD PUDDING SAUCE. 

Melt a little red currant jelly with three glasses of port 
wine and two of claret; sweeten to taste. 

CHOCOLATE SAUCE. 

Scrape a fillet of chocolate; melt it in a little weak 
syrup; add half a glass of brandy, and sufficient arrow- 
root to make it the consistency of double cream. 

CIDER SAUCE. 

Simmer ^ pt. cider with J lb sugar for about ten min- 
utes; add 2 ozs. butter and slightly thicken with arrow- 
root. 

COCOANUT SAUCE. 

Work a grated cocoauut over the tire with 3 yolks of 
eggs, ^ pt. cream, 1 oz. sugar, and then a glass of maras- 
chino; when set, serve in a boat. 

COLD SAUCE. 
Work I ft) butter with a wooden spoon to a cream* 
adding first | fc sugar, and then a glass of sherry, and 
the same of brandy by degrees. 

COFFEE SAUCE. 

Simmer | ft) of whole coffee in | pt. cream, for about 
ten minutes; add half a glass of brandy, 5 yolks of eggs, 
and sugar to taste, pass through a metal sieve and serve. 



16 SWKET SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS. 

DAMSON SAUCE. 

Stone and stew 1 pt. damsons in weak syrup until ten- 
der; puree them, with the juice of a lemon. 

DUNDEE SAUCE. 

Melt a pot of orange marmalade with one glass of 
sherry and one of curacoa. 

EGG SAUCE. 

Add to smooth custard sauce one glass of brandy and 

two hard boiled eggs cut into small dice, just at the 

last. 

EVA'S CREAM SAUCE. 

Put ^ pt. cream and two glasses of maraschino, on the 
fire; when it has come to a boil, thicken to the consist- 
ency of double cream, with a little arrowi'oot. 

GERMAN SAUCE. 

Put three glasses of sherry into a stewpan, with the 
juice of a lemon, a little syrup, and 4 yolks of eggs; whisk 
sharply over a not too quick fire for four or five minutes 
until done. 

GINGER SAUCE. 

Chop up ^ tb preserved ginger; add this with a little 
of the syrup, to | pt. cream, and two yolks of eggs; stir 
this over the fire until set. 

GREENGAGE JAM SAUCE. 

Proceed with a pot of greengage jam, as for apricot 
jam sauce, adding a glass of brandy. 

GROUND RICE SAUCE. 
Boil some ground rice in single cream, stirring all the 



SWEET SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS. 17 

while until it comes to the consistency of double cream; 
flavor with maraschino or noyeau. 

HARD SAUCE. 

Take ■§■ lb table butter, and 1 lb powdered sugar; beat 
them up until very light in a wooden bowl or earthen 
dish; add the white of one egg and flavor with brandy, 
lemon, etc. (or whatever flavor there is in the pudding); 
place in ice till ready to use; one teaspoonful is sufficient 
for each order. 

KIRSCHWASSER SAUCE. 

Thicken J pt. kirschwasser over the fire with the yolks 
of four eggs and one gill cream; sweeten to taste. 

LEMON ARROWROOT SAUCE. 
Proceed as for orange arrowroot sauce, with the zest 
and juice of one lemon. 

LIQUEUR ARROWROOT SAUCE. 

Make a clear arrowroot sauce with very weak syrup, 
adding a glass and a half of any of the liqueurs, and the 
juice of half a lemon. 

MACARONI SAUCE. 

Cut some boiled macaroni into very small lengths, and 
add arrowroot sauce. 

MARROW PUDDING SAUCE. 
Work the yolks of four eggs over the fire, with a spoon- 
ful of flour, 2 ozs. of sugar, 2 ozs. of butter, 3 glasses of 
Madeira, and the juice of half a lemon; when up to the 
boil pass it through a metel sieve and serve. 

MELTED BUTTER SAUCE. 
Make some melted butter with milk; stir in one glass 

2 



18 SWEET SAUCES FOK PUDDINGS. 

of sherry, half a glass of rum, the zest of a lemon, and 
powdered sugar to taste; serve ia a boat with grated nut- 
meg on top. 

MIXED SPICE SAUCE. 

Make a melted butter sauce; add to this half a tea- 
spoon of ground ginger, and the same of mixed spice. 

NECTARINE SAUCE. 

Pass ^ doz. nectarines through a sieve, and finish as 
for apricot sauce. 

NOUILLE SAUCE. 

Make some nouilles; add them just at the last to 
smooth custard sauce, flavored with a little rum. 

ORANGE ARROWROOT SAUCE. 

Boil with the weak syrup arrowroot sauce, the zest of 
an orange; add the juice of two oranges and half a lemon. 

ORANGE FLOWER SAUCE (1).' 

Add two glasses of orange flower water to the weak 
syrup arrowroot sauce. 

ORANGE FLOWER SAUCE (2). 

Add orange flower water to taste, to smooth custard 

sauce. 

ORANGE SAUCE. 

Cut ^ doz. oranges as for compotes; throw them into 
wine arrowroot sauce just before serving. 

PEACH SAUCE. 

Proceed as for apricot sauce with ^ doz. peaches, ad- 
ding a few drops of essence of almonds, and omitting the 
brandy. 



SWEET SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS. 19 

PEAR SAUCE. 

Make a puree of | cloz. mellow pears and J lb sugar; 
dilute thi^with cream. 

PINEAPPLE JAM SAUCE. 

Put about -^ lb pineapple jam into a stewpan over the 
fire, with the yolks of three eggs, ^ pt. cream, and the 
juice of half a lemon; stir over the fire and pass through 
a sieve. 

PINEAPPLE SAUCE. 

Peel and cut a small pineapple into slices; take out the 
core; cut into small dice; stew them in a weak sx'rup; 
when done, add the juice of one lemon and a half; thicken 
with arrowroot. 

PISTACHIO SAUCE. 

Chop 3 ozs. of blanched and dried pistachios very fine; 
throw them into a very clear arrowroot sauce, flavored 
with brandy. 

PORT ARROWROOT SAUCE. 

Make a clear weak arrowroot sauce with very weak 
syrup, adding two glasses of port wine and the juice of 
half a lemon. 

PUNCH ARROWROOT SAUCE. 

Add to a weak syrup arrowroot sauce, a little decoc- 
tion of green tea, two glasses of rum, and the juice of 
half a lemon. 

PUNCH STORE SAUCE. 

Mix together 1 pt. sherry, i pt. rum, | pt. brandy, J pt 
curacoa, -J oz, lemon peel, and | oz. Seville orange peel; 



20 SWEET SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS. 

infuse this for ten days, shaking the bottle every day; 
strain, and add ^ pt. rich syrup, and bottle for use. 

RASPBERRY AND CURRANT SAUCE. 

Stew -J pt. each of red currants and raspberries in 6 
OZ8. sugar; if too liquid, add a little arrowroot; serve hot 
or cold. 

RASPBERRY SAUCE. 

Proceed with ^ lb fine raspberries as for strawberry 
sauce. 

RASPBERRY JAM SAUCE. 

Proceed with raspberry jam as for strawberry sauce. 

RATAFIA SAUCE. 

Stir J pt. cream, the yolks of three eggs, and 3 ozs. of 
very finely bruised ratafias, over the fire until set. 

RED AND WHITE CURRANT SAUCE. 

Stew for five minutes in a stewpan, with 6 ozs. sugar, 
half a glass of brandy, and | pt. each of red and white 
currants; serve hot or cold. 

RED CURRANT JELLY SAUCE. 
Melt about 1 lb of red currant jelly with a glass of 
brandy; add syrup to taste. 

RED CHERRY ARROWROOT SAUCE. 

' Stone and pass ^ lb red cherries through a sieve; boil 
a little syrup down strong; add the cherries, a few drops 
of cochineal and some lemon juice: thicken slightly with 
arrowroot, and serve. 

RED CHERRY SAUCE (1). 
Use a compote of red cherries with sufficient arrow- 
root. 



SWEET SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS. 21 

KED CHERRY SAUCE (2). 

Stew ^ ,1b stoned red cherries in a little syrup; pass 
them thi'ough a sieve, and add one glass of port wine, 
and some royal white sweet garnish pudding; cut into 
rather small dice and throw in at the last. 

REDUCED WINE SAUCE. 

Reduce on the fire ^ pt. port wine and ^ pt. sherry, 
mixed together, till half the original quantity; add a little 
sugar and lemon juice. 

RED GOOSEBERRY JAM SAUCE. 

Pass gooseberry jam through a sieve with two glasses of 
sherry; make hot and serve. 

SEVILLE ORANGE ARROWROOT SAUCE. 

Add the zest and juice of two Seville oranges and half 
a glass of brandy, to a weak syrup arrowroot sauce. 

STRAWBERRY JAM SAUCE. 

Proceed with strawberry jam as for aprocot jam; sub- 
stituting two glasses of claret for the sherry. 

STRAWBERRY SAUCE. 

Throw three dozen fine strawberries into wine arrow- 
root sauce before serving. 

SHRUB ARROWROOT SAUCE. 

Thicken three glasses of shrub over the fire with a lit- 
tle arrowroot; add syrup to taste. 

SMOOTH CUSTARD SAUCE. 

Stir -J pt. cream over the fire until it boils; add three 
yolks of eggs mixed with a little milk; sweeten and flavor 
to taste. 



22 SWEET SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS. 

TEA SAUCE. 

Add a custard of four yolks of eggs and ^ pt. of cream 
to some strong decoction of tea,and half a glass of brandy; 
sweeten to taste, 

TRAFALGAR SAUCE. 

Melt three glasses of jelly in a stewpan; add one glass 
of sbeiTy, one of curacoa, and a little lemon; thicken 
slightly with arrowroot. -' 

UNCLE TOM'S CAROLINA SAUCE. 

Boil a little Carolina rice; dry it; put into arrowroot 
sauce, flavored with a glass of rum. 

VANILLA SAUCE. 

Sweeten smooth custard sauce with vanilla sugar. 

VERMICELLI SAUCE. 

Proceed as for nouille sauce, with some vermicelli 
broken and blanched in milk. 

WALNUT SAUCE. 
Prodeed with 1 doz. blanched walnuts as for almond 
sauce. 

WHITE CHERRY ARROWROOT SAUCE, 

Proceed as for red cherry arrowroot sauce, using white 
cherries, adding a glass of white noyeau, and omitting 
cochineal. 

WHITE CHERRY SAUCE (1). 

Proceed as for red cherry sauce (1) using white-heart 
cherries, stewing them longer and omitting the co- 
chineal. 



SWEET SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS. 23 



WHITE CHEERY SAUCE (2), 

Proceed as for red cherry sauce (2) with ^ lb white- 
heart cherries and two glasses of sherry. 

WHITE GRAPE SAUCE. 

Make an arrowroot sauce with a weak syrup: add the 
juice of half a lemon, a glass of sherry, and half a glass 
of elder flower water; throw in 3 doz. small white grapes 
just before serving. 

WHIPT CREAM GARNISH FOR PUDDINGS. 

Whip ^ pt. or more of double cream with a whisk un- 
til stiff; sweeten very slightly and flavor to taste; care 
must be taken not to over-whip tlie cream as it would 
then produce butter; if required to pour round a pud- 
ding it should only be half whipt. 

WINE ARROWROOT SAUCE. 

Make a clear arrowroot sauce with very weak syrup; 
add a couple of glasses of sherry or any other wine. 

YANKEE SAUCE. 

Put J lb molasses into a stewpan with a glass of rum, 
one of brandy, one of sherry, and the juice of half a 
lemon; serve very hot. 



CHAPTEK III. 
STEAMED PUDDINGS. 

ALBERT PUDDING. 
Take the crumb of two French rolls; soak it in ^ pt. 
boiling milk; when cold, add 5 eggs (leaving out the 
whites of two), 6 ozs of butter, 1 glass each of port wine 
and brandy, and | teaspoon of ground ginger; sweeten 
to taste; put into a mould and steam for one hour; serve 
with German sauce. 

AMERICAN PUDDING. 
Cut some thin slices of superior gingerbread; make a 
cold custard of 4 eggs and | pt of milk, flavored with a 
little preserved ginger syrup; soak the slices in a little of 
the custard; place them in the mould and fill up with the 
remainder; steam and serve with Yankee sauce. 

BISCUIT PUDDING. 
Pour 1 pt boiling cream over | lb broken Savoy cake; 
let it steep five minutes; add J lb sugar, essence of van- 
illa to taste, and a small pinch of salt; mix the whole 
with the yolks of six eggs and the whipped whites of two; 
put into a mould and steam for one hour; serve with 
vanilla sauce. 

BLACK CAP PUDDINGS. 

Butter eight dariole moulds; cover the bottom of each 
mould with washed and picked currants; fill them with 
Queen's custard (see Queen's custard pudding) ; steam 
and serve with shrub arrowroot sauce. 



STEAMED PUDDINGS. 25 



BLACK CHERRY PUDDING. 
Proceed with black cherries as for red cherry pudding; 
serve with black cherry sauce (2). 

BREAD PUDDING. 
Put I lb bread crumbs, 6 ozs of sugar, 2 ozs butter and 
the zest of a lemon into a basin ; pour over this 1 pt of 
boiling milk letting it steep for ten minutes; then add 
6 yolks of eggs and 2 whipped whites; mix all to- 
gether; steam in a mould, serve with ratafia sauce. 

BRIGHTON BISCUIT PUDDING. 
Arrange lightly, about 2 doz Brighton biscuits in a 
mould; till up with a cold custard of 4 eggs, and | pt of 
milk; steam and serve with orange flower arrowroot 
sauce. 

BROWN BREAD BISCUIT PUDDING. 
Procure 1^ doz brown bread biscuits, (a light mixture 
made in square tins); cut in slices and place lightly in a 
mould; fill up with a cold custard; steam about | hour, 
and serve with almond sauce. 

BROWN BREAD PUDDING. 

Take \ lb bread crumbs, \ lb unblanched almonds, 
chopped fine, J lb brown sugar, ^ lb mixed peel chopped, 
\ lb melted butter, 1 teaspoonful ground cinnamon, the 
zest of two lemons, and a glass of brandy; work in the 
yolks of 6 eggs; add the white, beat stifi'; steam in 
mould and serve with brown bread pudding sauce. 

CABINET PUDDING. 
Decorate a mould with dried cherries, citron, etc, fill 
with sponge biscuits cut in slices, ratafias, and a little 



26 STEAMED PUDDINGS. 

finely cut orange and lemon peels in layers; pour over 
this two glasses of brandy; fill up with a cold custard of 
4 eggs and 1 pt of milk; flavor to taste, and serve with 
orange flower sauce. 

CARAMEL PCJDDINa. 

Put some powdered sugar into a plain copper pudding 
mould; melt it in the mould as for nougat, so that 
the inside will be perfectly masked over with the cara- 
mel; fill up with a cold custard of 10 yolks of eggs and 1 
pt cream, flavored with a glass of rum, and sweetened 
to taste; steam gently for about 40 minutes, and serve 
without sauce. 

CARRAWAY PUDDING. 

The same as chocolate pudding, using carraway seeds 
in place of chocolate; serve with wine arrowroot sauce. 

CHARCOAL PUDDING. 

Pour 1 pt boiling milk over 2 doz charcoal biscuits; 
when thoroughly soaked, sweeten and flavor to taste; 
mix well with five beat eggs; steam in a mould, and 
serve with wine arrowroot sauce. 

CHESTNUT PUDDING. 
Peal and boil until tender 40 chestnuts (marrons) ; rub 
them through a sieve, and place io a stewpan with 1 pt 
cream, J lb butter, ^ lb sugar, a pinch of salt, and vanilla 
sugar to flavor; stir this over the fire until it thickens 
aud detaches from the sides; remove from the fire and 
add 8 yolks and the whites of 6 eggs beat firm; mix the 
whole well together; put into a mould; steam for 1^ 
hours, and serve with Eva's cream sauce. 



STEAMED PUDDINGS. 27 

CHOCOLATE PUDDING. 

Make a petit cliou mixture as for ginger pudding, us- 
ing yolkes onl}' at first, and adding the "whites beat stiff, 
at the last; work in two sticks of chocolate, scraped, be- 
fore the petit chou is put on the fire; put into a mould 
and serve with chocolate sauce. 

COBUEG PUDDING. 

Cut up some Savarin cake in cii'cular slices, about one 
inch less in diameter than the mould used, which should 
be previously decorated with cheriies and citron; soak 
the slices of savarin in maraschino; spread them with 
apricot jam, placing them up the centre of the mould; 
fill up with a cold custard of 4 eggs, | pt milk, and 2 ozs 
vanilla sugar; serve with liqueur arrowroot sauce. 

CRUMPET PUDDING. 

Proceed and finish as for muffin pudding. 

CUSTARD PUDDING WITH FRUIT SAUCE. 
Make a custard pudding; dish, and serve round it 
any of the fruit sauces. 

CUSTARD PUDDING. 

Beat fifteen yolks of eggs; add this to 1 pt cream, ^ 
pt milk, a little sugar, and a pinch of salt; put into a 
prepared mould; place into a stewpan with a little boil- 
ing water; cover and steam at the corner of the stove 
until set, but by no means allow the water to boil* 

DARIOLE CUSTARD PUDDING. 

Fill eight buttered dariole moulds with custard as for 
custard pudding; steam; when set, dish, and pour over 
them smooth custard sauce. 



28 STEAMED PUDDINGS. 

EGGS A LA SUKPRISE. 

Make a small iiole at each end of the eggs, so as to get 
the whole interior out without breaking or damaging 
the shell; stop up one end of the eggs with a small 
piece of stiff paste; till the shells (by means of a very 
small funnel) with custard (see custard pudding) flavored 
to taste; stop up the aperture with paste; put them in 
a stewpan on the stove, simmering the water very gently 
until they are set; take off the paste at each end, and 
serve on a napkin with liqueur arrowroot sauce, in a boat. 

FRENCH ROLL PUDDING. 
Take two or three French rolls, pare off the crust and 
soak the crumb in 1| pts boiling milk; flavor with ground 
cinnamon and a glass of shrub; add 5 yolks and 3 whites 
of eggs, and one oz sweet almonds; sweeten to taste; 
put in a decorated mould; steam and serve with red 
cherry arrowroot sauce. 

GAUFFRE CUSTARD PUDDING. 
Cut gauffres in quarters; trim and place them in a 
mould; fill up with a cold custard of 4 eggs, | pt cream, 
a glass of mm, and sugar to taste; steam 40 minutes, 
and serve with punch store sauce. 

GINGER PUDDING. 
Put 1 pt cream into a stewpan with \ lb butter; place 
this on the fire to simmer; then mix in 6 ozs sifted flour, 
which work in the manner oi petit s choux; remove from 
the fire, stir in six eggs (one at a time), and add ^ lb 
preserved ginger, cut up small; mix all together; fill a 
mould; steam 1^ hours, and serve with ginger sauce. 



STEAMED PUDDINGS. 29 

GOOD FRIDAY PUDDING. 

Cut I doz Good Friday buns in slices; place them in 
a mould and fill up with a cold custard of 4 eggs and 1 
pt cream ; sweeten to taste, steam, and serve with mixed 
spice sauce. 

ITALIAN PASTE CUSTARD PUDDING. 

Boil \ ft Italian paste, and drain on a sieve; make a 
custard of 8 yolks of eggs, 1 pt double cream, a desert- 
spoon of flour and a little butter, worked over the fire 
with a wooden spoon until it thickens; when cold add 2 
yolks and 2 whole eggs; flavor to taste, and mix the 
paste in very lightly; put the whole in a prepared 
mould; steam 40 minutes, and serve with smooth custard 
sauce. 

JUMBLE PUDDING. 

Break about 1 doz jumbles into convenient pieces; 
place them lightly in a mould; fill up with a cold custard 
of 5 yolks and 2 whole eggs, 1 pt milk, and a little es- 
sence of ginger; steam and serve with ginger sauce. 

LEED'S PUDDING. 
Beat 9 eggs, adding 1 pt cream and a pinch of salt; 
steam in a prepared mould for about 20 minutes; serve 
with a cherry sauce, round the base, and hot sherry in a 
boat. 

MACARONI PUDDING A LA SURPRISE. 

Boil £ ft Naples macaroni in 3 pts milk and a little 
sugar; when tender drain it, cut and build it in a pre- 
pared mould as for timbale of macaroni; fill carefully 
with pastry cream, flavored to taste, and finished off with 
five extra yolks of eggs, introducing a small pot of apri- 



30 STEAMED PUDDINGS. 

cot jam in the centre of the timbale; steam and serve 
with Eva's cream sauce. 

MILK BISCUIT PUDDINa 
Soak ^ doz milk biscuits in 1 pt boiling milk ; when 
cool, add 4 eggs, sweeten and flavor to taste ; steam in a 
mould for | hour, and serve with wine arrowroot sauce. 

MONDAY PUDDING. 
Line a mould with very thinly cut cold plum pudding; 
fill up with a cold custard of 12 yolks of eggs and 1 pt 
cream, sweetened to taste and flavored with a glass of 
brandy; steam gently and serve with German sauce. 

MUFFIN PUDDING. 
Take four fresh muffins; split and spread with apricot 
jam; close and cut them in quarters; lay them in a dish 
and soak them with a cold custard of 4 eggs, ^ pt milk, 
^ pt cream, and flavor with a glass of brandy and one of 
maraschino; sweeten to taste; fill up the mould with the 
pieces and the remainder of the custard; steam and serve 
with vanilla sauce. 

NEWCASTLE PUDDING. 
Butter a half melon mould; line it with dried cherries; 
fill with bread and butter and a cold custard of 4 eggs, 
and I pt milk ; flavor to taste ; steam 40 minutes, and 
serve with port arrowroot sauce. 

NOKFOLK CUSTAED PUDDING. 
Make and boil some small suet dumplings of the size 
of marbles ; fill the mould with these, filling up with a 
cold custard of 6 eggs and | pt milk; steam and serve 
with mixed spiced sauce. 



STEAMED I'UDDIJSGS. 31 

NOUILLE PUDDING. 
Stir some nouilles liylilly into a pastry cream, pre- 
viously adding 4 yolks of eggs to it in a cold state; flavor 
with maraschino; steam in a mould, and serve with 
nouille sauce. 

ORANGE FLOWER PUDDING. 
Proceed with a handful of orange riowers as for choco- 
late pudding, omitting the chocolate; serve with orange 
flower arrowroot sauce. 

ORANGE PRAWLING PUDDING. 
Mix -J ib orange prawlings in a pastry cream with four 
yolks and one whole egg added; steam one hour, and 
serve with Seville orange arrowroot fiance. 

PALERMO PETITS CHOUX PUDDING. 

Make some petits choux into small balls, and bake 
them; when cold, introduce some apricot jam into the 
centre of each; fill a mould with these, filling up with u 
cold custard of 4 eggs and | pt milk; flavor to taste; 
steam a little more than half an hour, and serve with egg 
sauce. 

PANCAKE PUDDING. 

Mask some very thin pancakes with apricot jam; roll 
them up and cut across in slices; place these in miroton 
up the sides of a mould; fill the centre with sponge cake, 
and fill up with a cold custard of 4 yolks, 2 whole eggs^ 
and 1 pt cream; sweeten and flavor with vanilla; steam 
and serve with vanilla sauce. 

PICNIC PUDDING. 
Pour 1 qt boiling milk over | tb picnic biscuits; let 



32 STEAMED PUDDINGS. 



them stand on the corner of the stove for half an hour 
in a covered stewpan; remove from the fire, stir in five 
yolks of eggs, and the whites beat stifif; flavor to taste; 
steam in mould, and serve with strawberry jam sauce. 

PINEAPPLE PUDDING. 
Made in the same way as ginger pudding, substituting 
pineapple jam for the ginger; steam and serve with pine- 
apple sauce. 

QUEEN'S CUSTAED PUDDING. 

Break 1 doz whites of eggs with the whisk; add 1 pt 
cream, half a glass of maraschino, and a small pinch of 
salt; steam in a prepared mould, being very careful not 
to let the water come to a boil; pour round it Eva's cream 
sauce. 

EASPBERRY PUDDING. 

Proceed with raspberries as for strawberry pudding, 
adding the juice of half a lemon to the mixture; serve 
with raspberry sauce. 

RATAFIA PUDDING. 

The same as cabinet pudding, using ratafias only, and 

omitting the orange and lemon peel; serve with ratafia 

sauce. 

EED CHEEEY PUDDING. 

Beat -J lb butter and ^ ib sugar till quite light, in a 
basin; add 8 yolks of eggs, and | lb breadcrumbs, which 
have been previously soaked in milk and passed through 
a sieve; add to this 1 ft) whole red cherries, stoned, and 
6 whites of eggs beat stiff; steam in mould for one hour; 
serve vpith red cherry sauce (2). 



STEAMED PUDDINGS. 33 

REGENCE PUDDING. 
Add to ^ lb butter 2 tablespoons flour, the zest of a 
lemon, and a teacup of milk ; stir over the fire until it 
boils; add five yolks of eggs, and half a glass each of 
brandy and orange flower water; sweeten to taste; stir 
in the whites of the eggs beat; steam in mould and serve 
with punch store sauce. 

ROYAL HEART PUDDING. 

Cut 1 doz royal heart cakes in slices; place them round 
a prepared mould in alternate rows of brown and white 
parts; cover the bottom of the mould in the same man- 
ner; fill the centre with what is left of the cake; fill up 
with a custard of 4 eggs, 1 pt milk, and two glasses of 
noyeau; steam and serve with cocoanut sauce. 

RUSK PUDDING. 

Make a cold custard of 1 pt cream, ^ doz eggs, and 6 
ozs sugar; line a mould all over with dried cherries; take 
some rusks, dip them in the custard, and place them in 
the mould with a little raspberrj' jam between each layer; 
fill up with the custard; steam and serve with punch 
store sauce. 

SAGO PUDDING. 

Proceed with sago as for tapioca pudding; steam and 
serve with punch arrowroot sauce. 

STRAWBERRY PUDDING. 
Proceed as for cherry pudding, using 1 lb strawberries 
for the purpose; serve with strawberry sauce. 

TANSY PUDDING. 
Half fill a mould with Savoy biscuit or sponge cake ; 



31 STEAMED PUDDINGS. 

fill up with a cold custaid of 1 pt cream, 5 eggs a few 
tiiu^y leaves chopped fine, and 2 ozs fiuely chopped 
pistachios; sweeten to taste; steam and serve with port 
arrowroot sauce. 

TAPIOCA PUDDING. 

Take -^ flb tapioca, ^ ft> sugar, the zest of a lemon, and 
2 0Z6 of butter; put the whole in a stewpan with 1 qt 
milk; stir over the fire until it boils; then cover and set 
at the corner of the stove for a quarter of an hour; re- 
move it and stir in the yolks of G eggs, and the beat 
whites of 2; put into a mould or buttered basin; steam 
14 hours, and serve with punch arrowroot sauce. 

VANA PUDDING. 
Make a custard with the yolks of 6 eggs, ^ pt milk 
and 2 tablespoons arrowroot ; when cold, add 4 whites 
of eggs, 3 tablespoons cream, 2 of brandy, 2 of marma- 
lade, 1 of maraschino, 2 ozs muscatel raisins, 2 ozs rata- 
fias, and 2 ozs chopped pistachios; decorate a mould 
with dried cherries; fill with the pudding; steam for 1^ 
hours, and serve with brandy arrowroot sauce. 

VIENNOISE PUDDING. 
Put into a large basin | ft) of bread, cut into small 
dice, the zest of 2 lemons, 2 ozs of sweet and ^ oz bitter 
almonds, chopped, and 6 ozs sultana raisuis; pour over 
this two glasses of Madeira, adding enough burnt cus- 
tard to fill a mould; decorate with citron; fill up with 
the mixture, and steam for 1^ hours; serve with walnut 
sauce. The burnt custard is made of 8 yolks of eggs, 1 
pt cream, 2 ozs burnt and 6 ozs plain sugar. 



STEAMED PUDDINGS. 35 



WHITE AND BROWN BEEAD PUDDING. 
Cut some thin slices of white bread and butter, and an 
equal quantity of brown; cut these in large rounds with 
a circular cutter, one inch smaller in diameter than the 
prepared mould; decorate with dried cherries; stamp 
the middle of these with a two-inch circular cutter; 
spread the rings of brown bread and butter with rasp- 
berry jam, and the white with marmalade; place these 
alternately up the centre of the mould until it reaches 
the top; fill up with a cold custard of 4 eggs and 1 pt 
milk; sweeten and flavor with essence of almonds; steam 
and serve with Dundee sauce. 

WHITE CHERRY PUDDING. 

Proceed with white-heart cherries as for letl cherry 
pudding; serve with white cherry sauce. 



CHAPTER IV. 
BOILED PUDDINGS. 

SUET AND BUTTER PASTE FOR BOILED PUD- 
DINGS. 

6 ozs chopped suet. Pinch of salt. 

I lb flour. 

Mix together, and knead lightly with cold water, and 
roll it out; butter a pudding basin, line it with the 
paste, and fill the pudding with whatever required; wet 
the edge of the paste and cover the pudding with the 
top crust; tie over with a cloth, and it is then ready for 
boiling. 

For butter paste, use 6 ozs of butter to | lb flour. 

In the following recipes where prepared pudding 
basin is mentioned, it is prepared as above. 

ALEXANDRA PUDDING. 
Fill a mould with equal quantities of bread crumbs^ 
currants, and sultana raisins; add mixed spices and a 
couple of glasses of biaudy; fill up with a cold custard 
of four eggs, and | pt cream, sweetened and flavored to 
taste; tie the mould over with a cloth, as usual in boiled 
puddicgs; boil 2 hours, and serve with white cherry ar- 
rowroot sauce. 

ALPHABETICAL CHRISTMAS PUDDING. 

A. — Applfs, chopped, 2 ozs. 
B. — Butter, melted, ^ lb. 
C. — Currants, ^ It). 



BOILED PUDDINGS. 37 



D. — Dried cherries, 2 ozs. 

E. — Eggs, whole, ^ doz. 

F.— Flour, 1| ft)s. 

G.— Greengages, dried, cut up and stoned, 2 ozs. 

H. — Honey, 2 ozs. 

I. — Imported figs, cut up, 2 ozs. 

J. — Jam, apricot, J Bb. 

K. — Kirsch-wasser, half a glass. 

L. — Lump sugai', pounded, J ft). 

M — Milk, a very little, according to judgment, 

N. — Nutmeg, grated, one. 

O. — Orange peel, cut up, J ftj. 

P. — Port wine, one glass. 

Q. — Quince jam, one tablespoonful. 

R —Raisins, 1 ft). 

S. — Salt, half a teaspoonful. 

T. — Tamarinds, freed from the stones, 2 ozs. 

U. — Uncut and unshelled whole walnut. 

V. — Veal suet, | ft». 

W. — White noyeau, half a glass. 

X. — Excellent Jordan almonds, blanched and chopped, 
4Mb. 

Y. — Yolks of eggs, two. 

Z.— Zest of one lemon. 

&. — Pudding sauce; cold sauce. 

This Christmas Pudding, the invention of Massey 
Bros., in spite of its whimsical method of treatment, is a 
very good and rich eating one. Much amusement will 
be caused (if the recipe is known) by some one getting 
the walnut in their share. Boil as a plum pudding. 

APPLE PUDDING. 
Pare, core and quarter about 1 doz apples; place them 



38 BOILED PUDDINGS. 



in a prepared pudding basin, with about 6 ozs sugar, a 
little lemon zest, two or three cloves, and a pat of butter; 
boil about two hours. 

APPLE AND CREAM PUDDING A LA CERES. 

Take about 12 or 15 good apples; peel, core and quar- 
ter them, and place in a stew pan with ^ tb fine sugar, 
the zest of an orauge, and 4 ozs melted butter; cover 
(he stew pan, and put into a moderate oven until the 
npples are tender; as soon as they are done, place them 
in a dish to cool; line a mould with butter paste; put a 
layer of apples on the bottom, and the remaining quar- 
ters up the sides; fill the centre with a pasti-y cream 
flavored with vanilla sugar; egg the edge of the pudding, 
covering it with a round piece of the paste; tie over 
light with a cloth and boil 1^ hours; when done, turn it 
out and mask lightly with apricot jam; strew with 
bruised macaroons, and serve with wine arrowroot sauce 
round the base. 

APRICOT PUDDING. 

Prepare a pudding basin ; fill up with some apricots, 
jjeeled, stoned, and halved; add about ^ Tb sugar; boil 
1^ hours. 

APRICOT PUDDING A LA CERES. 

Take 2 doz fine apricots; peel, divide, stone them; 
roll them in ^ ib sugar; place them at the bottom and 
sides of the mould, and fill up with pastry cream; finish 
as for Apple and Cream Pudding a la Ceres; serve with 
wine arrowroot sauce. 

APRICOT JAM ROLL PUDDING. 

Spread the paste with apricot jam, adding a few drops 
( f lemon juice; finish as for Marmalade Roll Pudding. 



BOILED PUDDINGS. 89 



BALTIMORE PUDDING. 
Proceed as for Princess Puddiug, using i Bb red cur. 
rant jelly (melted), and a few drops of lemon juice and 
cochineal; serve with raspberry and currant sauce. 

BARBERRY PUDDING. 

Stew enough barberries in a copper sugar boiler for 
five minutes, in weak syrup, to fill a prepared pudding- 
basin; reduce the syrup, and add enough to sweeten the 
puddiug; boil for 2 hours. 

BATTER PUDDING. 

Mix a little milk with ^ lb flour; add to this 1-^ pts. 
milk and a pat of butter; stir over the fire till it thickens; 
when cold add the beat yolks of 4 eggs and one whole 
one; boil in buttered basin for 2 hours; serve with melted 
butter sauce, in a boat, or plain. 

BIRKENHEAD PUDDING. 
J ft> mashed potatoes. 2 ozs almonds, chopped. 

^ lb hard boiled eggs, 2 eggs. 

chopped small. 1 glass brandy. 

J ft) mincemeat. Sugar to taste. 

2 ozs butter, melted. 

Mix well and boil in a raould for 2 hours; serve with a 
dust of sugar and egg sauce. 

BLACK CURRANT PUDDING. 

Fill a preparnd pudding basin with black currants; 
add about i ft> sugar; boil 1| hours; serve with double 
cream in a boat. 

BLACK CURRANT PUDDING A LA CERES. 
Roll 2 ifas picked black currants in :|^ ib sugar; finish 
as for Cherry Puddiug a la Ceres; wine arrowroot sauce. 



40 BOIJLED PUDDINGS. 



BLACK CURRANT JAM ROLL PUDDING. 
Spread the paste with black currant jam; finish as for 
Marmalade Roll Pudding. 

BLACKBERRY PUDDING. 

Fill a prepared pudding basin with ripe blackberries 
and sliced apples; add a glass of cherry brandy, a few 
drops of lemon juice, and 10 ozs sugar; boil 2 hours. 

BLACK HEART CHERRY PUDDING. 
Fill a prepared pudding basin with black heart cher- 
ries; add ^ ib sugar, and the juice of half a lemon; boil 
about 2 hours. 

BLACK GRAPE PUDDING. 
Half fill a prepared pudding basin with black grapes; 
put in the middle sufficient red currant jelly; fill up with 
grapes and ^ ft) sugar; boil 1^ hours. 

BLACK AND WHITE GRAPE PUDDING. 

Proceed as for White Grape Pudding, using black and 
white grapes and double quantity of apricot jam in the 
centre. 

BREAD PUDDING. 

Put the crumb of three French rolls, cut in dice, 
into a basin, and cover with boiling milk; add a pat of 
butter and the zest of a lemon, a little grated nutmeg 
and a glass of brandy; when well plumped up, work it 
up with a wooden spoon, and beat in ^ doz whole eggs ; 
put it into a buttered basin; tie over with a cloth; boil 
nearly an hour, and be sure the water boils before the 
pudding is put in; serve with lemon arrowroot sauce. 



BOILED PUDDINGS. 41 

BEEAD AND BUTTER PUDDING. 

Cut slices of French roll; butter them thinly on one 
side; put layers of the bread and butter and currants 
alternately up a mould; fill up with a cold custard of 
eight yolks of eggs and 1 pt milk, sweetened and flavored 
to taste; let it stand for ten minutes, then boil for | 
hour; serve with Kirschwasser sauce. 

BROWN BREAD PUDDING. 

^ ft) brown bread crumbs. Sugar and nutmeg to taste. 

6 ozs beef suet. 4 eggs. 

10 bitter almonds, blanch- One glass of brandy. 

ed and beat. Two glasses of cream. 

Put into a buttered basin; tie over with a cloth; boil 3 
hours, and serve with Brown Bread Pudding sauce. 

CAPE MAY PUDDING. 

Proceed as for Princess Pudding, using 1 ft) orange 
marmalade; serve with Seville orange arrowroot sauce. 

CARROT PUDDING. 

Mix -J ft) of boiled carrots, pureed, with ^ ft) flour, 10 
ozs currants, 6 ozs chopped suet; spices and sugar to 
taste; 3 eggs, and a little milk; boil for 3 hours in a 
basin, and serve with Seville orange arrowroot sauce. 

CHERRY PUDDING A LA CERES. 
Pick and stone 1| lbs of cherries; shake them in a 
basin with the juice of a lemon, then roll them in | ft) 
sugar; pass them over the fire to extract the juice 
(which use for sauce) ; finish as for Apple and Cream 
Pudding a la Ceres; serve with wine arrowroot sauce. 

CHERRY PUDDING. 

Fill a prepared pudding basin with cherries, about ^ 
tb sugar, and the juice of a lemon; boil for 2 hours. 



42 BOILED PUDDINGS. 



CHESTNUT PUNCH MARROW PUDDING. 

Skin about 40 or 50 cliestuuts and make a puree with 
J ft) butter; add 6 ozs of rice flour, i lb veal suet, J lb 
raarrow, ^ lb sugar, ^ lb bruised macaroong, a little nul;- 
meg, one glass of cream, 3 glasses of rum, one whole egg 
and eight j'olks; boil in a cloth for 3 hours; serve with 
Marrow Pudding sauce. 

CORN STARCH PUDDING. 
Three tablespoons of corn starch to 1 qt milk; dis- 
solve the corn in some of the milk, and mix with it three 
well beat eggs and a little salt; heat the remainder of 
the milk to near boiling, add the preparation, and boil 
four minutes, stirring briskly; put into buttered dish, 
grate nutmeg over the top, and serve with punch store 
sauce, in a boat. 

CRANBERRY PUDDING. 
Take 3 pts of cranberries out of the liquor; place them 
in a prepared pudding basin with 10 ozs sugar; boil 
about 2 hours. 

CURRANT PUDDING. 

1 lb chopped suet. A little powdered cinna- 

1 !b flour. mon. 

I lb currants. Pinch of salt. 

4 eggs. A teaspoon baking powder. 

Beat the eggs, and add as much milk as will mix the 
whole together; tie in a cloth, boil about 3 hours, and 
serve with melted butter sauce, in a boat. 

CURRANT MARROW PUDDING A LAFORTESCUE. 

Mix -^ lb flour with 5 ozs of sugar, | lb currants, ^ lb 

beef suet, ^ lb marrow, the zest of a lemon, a little mixed 



BOILED PUDDINGS, 43 

spices, and 5 eggs; finish as for Marrow Padding a la 
Fortescue, and serve with marrow pudding sauce. 

DAMSON PUDDING. 
Fill a prepared pudding basin with damsons and 
about ^ lb sugar; boil full two hours. 

DATE PUDDING (1). 

Mix 6 ozs of dates, stoned and cut in slices, with ^ doz 

sponge cakes soaked in cream, 3 eggs, a little lemon 

zest, a glass of brandy, and sugar to taste; boil in a 

basin for 1^ hours, and serve with port arrowroot sauce. 

DATE PUDDING (2). 
Proceed as for Barberry Pudding, adding a glass of 
brandy. 

EVA'S CREAM PUDDING. 

Mix 3 tablespoons of flour very smoothly with 6 yolks 
and two w^hole eggs; add 1 pt double cream and two 
glasses of white noyeau; put into a buttered basin, and 
tie over with a thickly-buttered and floured cloth; boil 
I hour, and serve with Eva's cream sauce. 

FRESH FRUIT ROLL PUDDING. 

Almost any of the fresh fruit pudding saucer, stiffened 
with arrowroot, may be used for rolled puddings, of course 
excepting orange and a few others of the same nature. 

GENOISE PUDDING. 
Beat to a cream, with a wooden spoon, ^ ft) butter; 
stir in ^ ft) sugar, adding 5 eggs (one at a time), ^ lb 
flour, ^ lb dried cherries, and the zest of a lemon; put 
into a mould; boil and serve with red and white currant 
sauce. 



44 BOILED PUDDINGS. 



GREEN APRICOT PUDDING. 

Fill a prepared puddiug basin with green apricots, and 
about 10 ozs of sugar; boil for 2 hoars. 

GREEN CURRANT PUDDING. 

Fill a prepared puddiug basin with picked currants; 
add i lb sugar, and boil for 2^ hours. 

GREEN GOOSEBERRY PUDDING. 
Fill a prepared pudding basin with about 3 pts. picked 
gooseberries; add 10 ozs sugar, and boil 2^ hours. 

GREEN FIG PUDDING. 
Pick and halve about 1^ doz green figs; put them in a 
prepared pudding basin, with ^ ft) loaf sugar, and the juice 
of a lemon; boil for 2 hours. 

GREEN FIG PUDDING A LA CERES. 

Proceed as for Apricot Pudding a la Ceres; serve with 
wine arrowroot sauce. 

GREENGAGE PUDDING. 

Stone enough greengages to fill a prepared pudding 
basin, and add 6 ozs sugar; boil 2 hours. 

GREENGAGE JAM ROLL PUDDING. 

Spread the paste with greengage jam, no additions 
being required with this pudding; finish as for Marma- 
lade Roll Pudding. 

HALF PAY PUDDING. 

\ ft) chopped suet. ^ ft) bread crumbi. 

J lb flour. 2 tablespoons molasses. 

\ lb currants. ^ pt milk. 

I ft) raisins. 

Mix all well together; boil in a cloth for 3 hours; 



BOIIiED PUDDINGS. 45 

serve with melted butter sauce. The above is au excel- 
lent substitute for plum pudding, at a small expense. 

HASTY PUDDING. 

Boil one stick cinnamon with 1 qt milk; while boil- 
ing, shake into it three tablespoons of flour; stir until it 
thickens, then pour into a deep dish; stir in 1 oz of 
butter and some sugar, grate nutmeg on the top and 
serve. 

HASTY ARROWEOOT PUDDING. 

Proceed as for Hasty Pudding, with the exception of 
shaking in; the arrowroot should be mixed in a little 
cold milk, and then added to the boiling milk. 

HONEY PUDDING. 

To ^ fc clear honey add 6 ozs butter, beat to a cream, 
and 4 ozs bread crumbs; beat altogether for 10 minutes 
with 8 yolks of eggs; put into a mould and boil for IJ 
hours, serve with Seville orange arrowroot sauce. 

INDIAN MEAL MUSH PUDDING. 

Boil some Indian meal as for porridge, using milk in- 
stead of water; drop the meal gradually into the boiling 
milk, stirring briskly between each handful as well as 
when dropping it in; boil well, sweeten and flavor to 
taste; pour it into a mould, and in a few minutes it will 
be ready to turn out, still hot; pour over it melted butter 
sauce. 

LEMON PUDDING. 

Chop ^ ft) suet ver}' fine; mix with ^ fb bread crumbs, 
the zest and juice of two lemons, 6 ozs sugar, and 3 eggs; 
put into a mould or cloth, and boil for 2 hours; serve 
with lemon arrowroot sauce. 



48 BOILED PUDDINGS. 

MACARONI PUDDING. 
Break ^ flb macaroni into inch lengths; put on in a 
stewpan with 1 qt milk; simmer until tender; then pour 
over it 2 tablespoons of bread crumbs; when cold, add 6 
yolks and 2 whole eggs, a dariole of cream, and a glass of 
noyeau; sweeten to taste; put into a buttered basin; tie 
over and boil as usual; serve with macaroni sauce. 

MAGNUM BONUM PLUM PUDDING. 

Stone the plums, iilliug a prepared basin with them; 
add sugar | fib and sufficient butter; boil for 2 hours. 

MARMALADE ROLL PUDDING. 
Make a suet paste; roll it out rather thai than other- 
wise; cut it neatly into a convenient length; spread this 
with orange marmalade; slightly egg the edge of the 
paste; roll it up and tie in a cloth in the form of a 
bolster; boil for 1 1 hours; cut off the ends before serving. 

MARROW PUDDING A LA FORTESCUE. 
J Bb marrow. 4 apples, chopped fine. 

^ fib beef suet, chopped -^ lb apricot jam. 

fine. ^ gill cream. 

6 ozs flour. i gill brandy. 

J lb sugar. 5 eggs. 

6 ozs citron. Nutmeg to taste. 

6 ozs muscadine raisins, 

stoned. 
Mix and tie in a buttered cloth and boil for 5 hours ; 
serve with marrow pudding sauce. 

MEDLAR PUDDING. 
Proceed as for Pear Pudding. 

MIRABELLA PLUM PUDDING. 
Fill a prepared pudding basin with Mirabella plums 
6 ozs of sugar and a pat of fresh butter; boil for 2 hours. 



BOILED PUDDINGS. 47 

MIRABELLA PLUM PUDDING A LA CERES. 

Stone sufficient Mirabella plums; roll them in sugar 
and finish as for apple and cream puddding a la Ceres. 

MELON PUDDING. 

Peel and cut a lemon into convenient pieces; put into 
a prepared pudding mould, with alternate layers of 
sliced apples; add 6 ozs sugar and 2 tablespoons of 
cream; boil 2 hours. 

MICHAEL ANGELO'S PUDDING. 

2^ lbs curd (as for cheese J lb dried cherries, cut up 
cake). and soaked in brandy. 

10 eggs (leaving out the 6 ozs sugar. 

whites of four). 6 ozs brown bread crumbs. 

1 lb stoned rasins. 3 ozs chopped citron. 

\ lb preserved gage and ap- 1 glass each of brandy and 
ricot. rum. 

Beat the whites stifi and mix well; tie in a cloth and 
boil as plum pudding; serve with reduced wine sauce in 
a boat. 

MINCEMEAT PUDDING. 
1 lb mincemeat. 4 eggs, whisked. 

\ lb bread crumbs. 1 glass brandy, 

Zest and juice of a lemon. 

Mix and boil in a cloth for 3 hours; serve with Ger- 
man sauce, in a boat. 

MINCEMEAT ROLL PUDDING. 

Spread the paste with 1 lb of mincemeat, mixed with 
a couple glasses of brandy; finish as for marmalade roll 
pudding. 

MINCEMEAT AND APRICOT ROLL PUDDING. 

Spread the paste thinly with apricot jam, and strew 
with mincemeat; finish as for Marmalade Roll Pudding. 



48 BOILED PUDDINGS. 

MULBERRY PUDDING. 
Proceed as for blackberry pudding. 

NACTARINE PUDDING. 
Proceed as for apricot pudding. 

NECTARINE PUDDING A LA CERES. 
Proceed as for apricot pudding a la Ceres; serve with 
wine arrowroot sauce. 

NAHANT PUDDING. 
Proceed as for Princess pudding, using ^ lb pineapple 
jam (melted); add the juice of a lemon, and serve with 
greengage jam sauce. 

NEWPORT PUDDING. 
Proceed as for Princess pudding, using 1 lb greengage 
jam, pureed; add half a lemon and a glass of sherry; 
serve with greengage jam sauce. 

OATMEAL PORRIDGE. 

Put on a stewpan with 1 pt or more of water, accord- 
ing to the quantity to be obtained; when the water is 
boiling shake fine oatmeal in with the left hand, stirring 
it continuously with a wooden spoon in the right hand 
until it forms a sort of smooth paste; add salt and serve 
in souj) plates. It is generally eaten with cold milk. 

ONE, TWO, THREE PUDDING. 

First, ^ lb flour. Third, i lb chopped suet. 

Second, ^ lb molasses. 

Mix well, adding a teaspoon baking powder; boil in a 
cloth for 4 hours, and serve with brandy plum pudding 
sauce. 



BOILED PUDDINGS. 49 

ORANGE PUDDING. 

Proceed with a couple of oranges, the same as for 
lemon pudding, adding the juice of half a lemon: serve 
with orange arrowroot sauce. 

PARISIAN PUDDING. 

^ lb chopped marrow. Teaspoon mixed spice. ' 

6 ozs flour. Zest of two oi-anges. 

J lb apricot jam. 4 eggs. 

I lb chopped apples. Glass of brandy. 

I lb dried cherries. Piiicli of s:ilt. 

1 lb orange, lemon andcit- ^ pint cream, 
ron peel. 

Mix well, butter and flour a plain mould; fill up with 
the pudding; tie over lightly with a cloth; boil about 4^ 
hours; serve with cold sauce^ in a boat. 

PARISIAN MARROW PUDDING. 

6 ozs rice flour. | doz apples, chopped fine. 

^ lb veal suet. A little grated nutmeg. 

\ lb chopped marrow. 1 glass each of cream, 

j lb vanilla sugar. maraschino and noyeau. 

2 ozs blanched pistachios. One whole egg, and the 
2 ozs dried cherries, cut up. yolks of ten. 

J lb bruised macaroons. 

Mix and boil in a buttei-ed cloth for 4 hours; when 
ready to serve stick fillets of pistachios over the pudding; 
serve with marrow pudding sauce, round the base. 

PEACH PUDDING. 

Peel, stone and halve enough peaches to fill a prepared 
pudding basin; place over thi.s ^ lb sugar, the juice of 
half a lemon, and three drops of essence of almonds; boil 
about 1| hours. 



60 BOILED PUDDIiVGS. 

PEACH PUDDING A LA GEKES. 

Proceed with peaches as for Apricot Padding a la 
Ceres; flavor the pastry cream with a few drops of peach 
essence; serve with wine arrowroot sauce. 

PEAK PUDDING. 
• Proceed as for Apple Puddiug, adding the juice of a 
lemon. 

PEAEL BAKLEY PUDDING. 
Wash -^ pt pearl barley ; put it into a stewpan with 3 
pts milk, ^ lb sugar, and a little nutmeg; place over a 
slow fire and when properly swelled take it out, flavor to 
taste, add 4 eggs, and boil in a basin for one hour; serve 
with black cherry arrowroot sauce. 

PINE APPLE PUDDING. 

Cut off the outside of a small pine-apple; slice, core 
and cut it up into convenient pieces, which parboil in a 
little weak syrup; place the pine with slices of apple in 
alternate layers in a prepared pudding basin; add 6 ozs 
sugar; boil 2| hours. 

PISTACHIO AND APPLE PUDDING A LA CEKES. 

Make the pudding as for Apple and Cream Pudding a 
l.i Ceres, using 20 apples, and adding ^ lb apricot jam 
and 4 ozs blanched pistachios; when the pudding is 
turned oat, mask as usual with apricot jam, adding 
chopped pistachios; serve with pistachio sauce round the 
base. 

PLUM PUDDING (1.) 

1 lb stoned raisins. -^ ft moist sugar. 

1 ft cui'rants. Zest of two lemons. 



BOILKD PUDDINGS. 61 

6 ozs candied orange, ^ oz mixed spice, 
lemon and citron peel, Pinch salt, 
cut up. 5 eggs. 

1 lb beef suet, chopped. Half a tumbler milk. 
1 lb flour. 2 glasses of brandy. 

Mix well together; pour into a mould; tie over with a 
cloth and boil from 5 to 6 hours; serve with brandy 
sauce, in a boat. 

PLUM PUDDING (2.) 

1 lb suet. 3 ozs blanched almonds. 

1 lb currants. Spice to taste. 

1 lb raisins. 2 glasses brandy. 

I lb brown sngar. 1 (.(lass rum. 

^ lb mixed peel. 4 opgs. 

1 lb flour. A liUle milk. • 

3 ozsbread crumbs, or * 

Savoy cake. 
Boil 5 hours in a mould or cloth, and serve with 
brandy plum pudding sauce. 

PLUM PUDDING (8)— CHEAP. 

^ lb chopped beef suet. 1 teaspoon salt. 

10 ozs flour. 1 teaspoon baking powder. 

\ lb currants. Zest of a carrot, grated. 

J lb raisins. 1 glass wine. 

2 ozs sugar. A little milk. 

Tie up in a cloth and boil for 4 hours; serve wiih 
brandy plum pudding sauce. 

PKESEKVED CHERRY AND APPLE PUDDING A 
LA CERES. 

Proceed as for Apple and Cream Pudding a la Ceres, 
adding preserved cherries; flavor the pastry cream with 
Kirschwasser, and serve with wine arrowroot sauce. 



52 BOILED PUDDINGS. 

PEINCESS PUDDING. 

Cream ^ lb butter in a basin with a wooden spoon; 
beat in | lb sugar and | doz eggs (one at a time) together 
with ^ lb raspberry jam pureed, the juice of a lemon and 
a few drops of cochineal; mix with | lb flour; put into a 
mould, tie over with a cloth and boil 3 hours; serve with 
raspberry sauce. 

This pudding is also made with strawberry jam in 
place of raspberry, in which case serve with strawberry 

sauce. 

PUMPKIN PUDDING. 
Peel and cut into convenient pieces a small pumpkin; 
parboil it, and mix with about the same quantity of ap- 
ples, 2 tablespoons apricot jam, 6 ozs sugar, a few drops 
of lemon juice and some of the zest; put into a prepared 
pudding basin, and boil for two hours. 

QUINCE JAM ROLL PUDDING. 

Spread the paste with a thin layer of puree of apples, 
and a layer of quince jam over this; finish as for Marma- 
lade Roll Pudding. 

RAISIN AND APPLE PUDDING A LA CERES. 

Proceed as for Apple and Cream Pudding a la Ceres, 
using 20 apples and adding ^ lb raisins; serve with 
orange arrowroot sauce. 

RASPBERRY PUDDING. 
Fill a prepared pudding basin with picked raspberries, 
adding about 6 ozs of sugar and 1 gill of cream; boil 
about 1| hours. 

RASPBERRY PUDDING A LA CERES. 

Proceed with 2 lbs fresh raspberries as for Strawberry 
Pudding a la Ceres; serve with wine arrowroot sauce. 



BOILED PUDDINGS. 53 

KASPBERRY AND CURRANT PUDDING. 

Fill a prepared pudding basin with equal quantities of 
picked raspberries and currants; add about 10 ozs of 
sugar; boil 1| hours. 

RASPBERRY JAM ROLL PUDDING. 

Spread the paste with raspberry jam, adding the zest 
and a little of the juice of a lemon; finish as for Marma- 
lade Roll Pudding. 

RED GOOSEBERRY PUDDING. 

Proceed as for Green Gooseberry Pudding, using | ib 
sugar. 

RED AND GREEN GOOSEBERRY PUDDING A 
LA CERES. 
Roll I lb each of picked green and red gooseberries in 
^ ft) sugar; finish as for Cherry Pudding a la Ceres; 
serve with wine arrowroot sauce. 

RED GOOSEBERRY JAM ROLL PUDDING. 

Heat about 1 lb red gooseberry jam in a stewpan, with 
a little lemon juice; rub it through a coarse wire sieve; 
spread the paste and finish as for Marmalade Roll 
Pudding. 

RED CURRANT PUDDING. 

Fill a prepared pudding basin with red currants, about 
i lb sugar, and the zest of two oranges; boil about 1| 
hours; serve with whipt cream in a boat. 

RED CURRANT JAM ROLL PUDDING. 

Spread the paste with red currant jam and raspberry 
mixed; finish as for Marmalade Roll Pudding. 



54 BOILED PUDDINGS. 



RHUBARB PUDDING. 
Skin and cut the rhubarb into small pieces; fill a pre- 
pared pudding basin with it; add about 10 ozs sugar; 
boil 2^ hours. 

RHUBARB JAM ROLL PUDDING. 
Make a stiff puree of rhubarb; sweeten to taste, and 
finish as for Marmalade Roll Pudding. 

RICE PUDDING. 

Boil a large cupful of rice in water for five minutes; 
drain off the water and put the rice on again in milk ; 
let it boil until soft, stirring it occasionally to prevent it 
from burning; when done, put into a basin with a of pat 
butter, the zest of a lemon, a little nutmeg, and half a 
glass of brandy; sweeten to taste, and add 5 eggs; boil 
I hour in a basin; serve with marrow pudding sauce. 

RICE AND ORANGE MARROW PUDDING. 
Boil 1 lb of rice well in milk with \ lb butter, and J lb 
sugar, on which two oranges have been rubbed; when 
the rice is tender add 2 ozs chopped marrow, 2 ozs of 
butter, a glass of brandy and sufficient orange marma- 
lade; mix the whole with 2 whole eggs and the yolks of 
8; boil in a cloth for about 3 hours; serve without sauce. 

SAGO PUDDING. 
Boil 3 ozs of sago in 1 pt milk until tender; when 
cold add 5 eggs, a few bread crumbs, and sugar and 
brandy to taste; boil in a buttered basin (tied over with 
a cloth) for about 1^ hours; serve with black cherry 
arrowroot sauce. 



BOILED PUDDINGS. 65 

ST. CATHERINE S PLUM PUDDING. 
Proceed as for Mirabella Plum Padding. 

SARATOGA PUDDING. 
Proceed as for Princess Pudding, using 1 tb apricot 
jam pureed, the juice of a lemon and one glass of brandy; 
finish and serve with apricot jam sauce. 

STRAWBERRY PUDDING. 

Proceed as for Raspberry Pudding, adding the juice 
of half a lemon. 

STRAWBERRY PUDDING A LA CERES. 
Roll 2 lbs of picked strawberries in 6 ozs of sugar; 
tinish as for Apple and Cream Pudding a la Ceres; serve 
with wine arrowroot sauce. 

STRAWBERRY JAM ROLL PUDDING. 

Proceed as for Marmalade Roll Pudding, using straw- 
berry jam and the juice of half a lemon. 

SUET PUDDING. 

Make a rather thick batter of 1 ft) flour, | ft) chopped 
suet, 3 eggs, a teaspoon of baking powder, some grated 
nutmeg, sugar, salt and water; boil in a cloth for 3 hours; 
serve with melted butter sauce. 

SULTANA PUDDING. 

Soak 3 ozs Sultana raisins in 1 glass of rum ; add this 
to 1 lt» flour, 6 ozs chopped suet, ^ ft) sugar, 3 eggs, and 
a little milk to form it into a paste; boil it in a buttered 
ba in for 2 hours; serve with almond and raisin sauce. 
SULTANA MARROW PUDDING A LAFORTESCUE. 

Proceed as for Currant Marrow Pudding, a la Fortes- 
cne, substituting Sultana raisins for currants; serve with 
marrow pudding sauce. 



66 BOILED PUDDINGS. 

TAPIOCA PUDDINa. 
Proceed with 3 ozs of Tapioca as for Sago Pudding. 

TAYMOUTH PUDDING. 

1 lb beef suet, chopped Zest of 2 lemons. 

fine. A little salt 'and milk. 

I It) moist sugar. 3 yolks of eggs, and three 

1 ft) bread crumbs. whites (whipped.) 

2 teaspoons mixed spice. 

Mix the above ingredients to the consistency of plum 
pudding; tie in a cloth and boil 5 or 6 hours; serve with 
cold sauce, in a boat. 

TURKISH PUDDINa. 
Moisten and pass | ib figs through a sieve; add 6 ozs 
each of sugar, chopped suet and bread crumbs; 2 eggs 
and a cap of peel; mix well and put into a mould; boi) 
4 hours, and serve with Trafalgar sauce. 

UNCLE TOM'S PUDDING. 

^ ft) flour. 6 ozs raisins. 

6 ozs suet. 1 gill milk. 

6 ozs molasses. A little lemon zest. 

Put into a mould and boil 2 hours; serve with Undo 
Tom's Carolina sauce. 

VEAL SUET PUDDING. 
Pour 1 qt boiling milk over ^ ib chopped veal suet, ^ !b 
bread crumbs, J ft) dried cherries and 3 eggs; sweeten 
and flavor to taste; tie in a cloth, and boil 2^ hours; 
serve with brandy plum pudding sauce. 

WHITE CURRANT PUDDING. 
Make the pudding in the usual manner with 6 ozs of 
sugar, adding sufficient apricot jam; serve with whipped 
cream, in a boat; boil 1^ hours. 



BOILED PUDDINGS. 



57 



WHITE HEART CHERRY PUDDING. 

Fill a prepared padding basin with white heart cher- 
ries; add 10 ozs sugar and the juice of half a lemon; boil 
about 2 hours. 



WHITE GRAPE PUDDING. 

Proceed as for Black Grape Pudding, using apricot 
jam in place of red currant jelly. 



CHAPTEK V. 
BAKED PUDDINGS. 

ALMOND AND RAISIN PUDDING. 
Mix ^ ft) blauclied and finely chopped almonds, and 
the same quantity of muscatel raisins, with a pastry 
cream; add a glass of noyeau, and bake in a buttered 
dish. 

ALMOND PUDDINGS A LA BOLENO. 

Blanch, cut and beat to a paste in a mortar, ^ ft) sweet 
and I oz bitter almonds, with a spoonful of water; add 
to this paste 3 ozs of butter melted in a glass of hot 
cream, 4 eggs, sugar to taste, and a glass of curacoa; 
bake in buttered dariole moulds, and serve with walnut 
sauce. 

ALMOND PUDDING A LA MONGLAS. 

Blanch, cut and beat in a mortar 6 ozs of sweet al- 
mf)uds and G bitter ones, with a little plain water; mix 
the paste with the beat yolks of 6 eggs, 4 ozs butter, the 
zest and juice of one lemon, 1 glass of sherry, 1^ pts 
cream, and sugar to taste; pour into a buttered pudding 
dish, sprinkle the top with chopped almonds, and bake 
until properly set. 

ALMOND CHEESE CURD PUDDING. 

Blanch and pound \ ft) sweet almonds and 8 bitter 
ones, with one glass of orange flower water; add ^ ft> 



BAKED PUDDINGS. 59 



sugar, J pt cream, and the whites of two eggs beat stiff; 
bake as for cheese curd pudding. 

APPLE PUDDING A LA DOUGLASS. 

Pare and core | doz apples; fill the hearts with moist 
sugar, and a clove; place them in a buttered pie dish, 
and fill up with a light batter mixture, flavored with a 
glass of sherry; sweeten to taste and bake. 

APPLE PUDDING A LA WASHINGTON. 
Make a stiff apple jam with a little apricot mixed; let 
it cool in a jam pot, and then proceed as for apricot pud- 
ding a la Washington ; serve with pear sauce. 

APPLE OR PEAR PUDDING A LA CHICAGO. 
Proceed as for cherry pudding a la Chicago, substi- 
tuting a puree of apples or pears. 

APRICOT OR PEACH PUDDING A LA CHICAGO. 

Proceed as for cherry pudding a la Chicago, substi- 
tuting a compote of apricots or peaches. 

APRICOT OR PEACH PUDDING A LA DOUGLASS. 

Peel the apricots or peaches; place them in the bottom 
of the dish, as for apple pudding a la Douglass; dust 
them with sugar and squeeze lemon juice over them; 
flavor the batter with two glasses of brandy. 

APRICOT PUDDING A LA WASHINGTON. 

Line a mould with puff paste trimmings, worked up 
with a little extra flour; turn sufficient apricot jam into 
the center of the lined mould, the same as for a mould 
of jelly; fill np with a firm, plain custard; bake untii 
quite set; serve with apricot sauce. 



60 BAKED PUDDINGS. 



ARROWROOT PUDDING. 
Boil 1 pt milk; stir in a spoonful and half of arrowroot 
(mixed smooth with a little cold water); stir this over 
the fire until thick, and sweeten to taste; add the yolks 
of 4 eggs, 2 whole ones, and a half glass of bB»ndy; rim 
a pudding dish with puff paste, fill it with the pudding, 
and bake for half an hour. 

ARROWROOT CHERRY PUDDING. 

Pat in a buttered dish a compote of cherries; pat | 
pt milk and \ pt cream on the fire, with 2 ozs sugar, some 
cherry syrup, and a few drops of cochineal and lemon 
juice; stiffen this when boiling with some arrowroot; 
pour over the compote and bake. 

A great variety of arrowroot puddings, with various 
fruits, etc., can be made from this recipe. 

BAKEWELL PUDDING. 

Line a pie dish with puff paste cuttings; put in a layer 
of strawberry jam about an inch thick, and fill up witli 
the following mixture: -^ ft) butter and ^ ft) sugar, well 
beat together, adding 8 yolks and the whites of 4 eggs 
beat; flavor with a glass of brandy, and bake in a mod- 
erate oven. 

BATH PUDDING. 

Decorate a mould with dried cherries; take 3 Bath 
buns, split and spread with some preserve, rejoin and 
place them up the center of the mould; fill up with a 
cold custard of 5 yolks and 1 whole egg, and 1 pt cream 
flavored with cloves; bake and serve with white cherry 
s:\uC8. 

BATTER PUDDING. 

Pour 4 tablespoons of flour into a basin; add about 1 



BAKED PUDDINGS. 61 



pt milk by degrees until quite smootli, a pinch of salt, 
and 5 eggs; flavor to taste, and bake in a buttered dish. 

BEETROOT PUDDING. 
Make a puree of | S> cooked beetroot; add ^ pt cream, 
4 yolks and 2 whole eggs, and a glass of brandy; bake 
in a buttered dish, and serve with a d-jst of sugar. 

BLACK CURRANT PUDDING A LA CHICAGO. 
Work the black currants as for raspberry and currant 
pudding a la Chicago; finish as for cherry pudding a la 
Chicago. 

BLACK CURRANT PUDDING A LA WASHING- 
TON. 
Reduce 1 lb of black currant jam over the stove, being 
careful not to burn it; put it back into the pot, and when 
it is cold proceed as for apricot pudding a la Washing- 
ton ; serve with black currant sauce. 

BLOOD ORANGE PUDDING A LA CHICAGO. 

Proceed as for raspberry and currant pudding a la 
Chicago, with a compote of blood oranges. 

BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING. 

Cut slices of French roll very thin; butter on one side; 
put a layer of bread and butter and a layer of currants 
and candied fruits alternately in a buttered dish; make 
a cold custard of 4 eggs and 1 pt milk, sweetened and 
flavored to taste; fill up with this; let it stand for ten 
minutes, and bake in a moderate oven. 

BROWN BREAD PUDDING. 
Proceed as for steamed brown bread pudding, adding 
half pint of cream; bake in a buttered dish. 



BAKED PUDDINGS. 



CALIFORNIA PUDDING. 
Chop and pouud to a paste ]^ lb candied orange peel; 
put into a stewpan in which | lb each of butter and 
sugar have been melted; stir altogether, and add the 
yolks of 12 eggs; put into a buttered disband bake, 

CANADA PUDDING. 

When mush of Indian meal boiled pudding is nearly 
cooked, stir in about 1 lb of some sort of jam, 3 glasses 
of shrub, and sweeten to taste; bake in a buttered dish 

CALVES' FEET PUDDING. 
Bone three calves' feet ; boil them with the bones in 3 
qts water until tender; strain off, reserving the liquor 
for other purposes; press the best of the meat between 
two dishes; when cold mince up fine, and mix wit'u ^ tb 
sultanas, 2 glasses of sherry, the juice of half a lemon, 
and 4 ft) sugar ; fill a buttered dish three parts full with 
this, and fill up with batter pudding mixture, flavored 
with two glasses of brandy; sweeten to taste and bake. 

CHARLOTTE OF APPLES. 

Cut, core and quarter about 20 apples; put them on 
the corner of the stove in a covered stewpan with ^ lb 
butter until thoroughly done; then reduce the pulp over 
a quick fire with a wooden spoon, and add | ft) sugar 
with a little orange zest. Butter a plain mould; cut 
some small round pieces of bread with a French or cor- 
net cutter, dip them in clarified butter, and place them 
in miroton round the bottom and sides of the mould; fill 
up with the puree of apples; cover the top with a round 
piece of bread dipped in clarified butter; place a cover 
on the top of the mould and bake for about | hour; serve 
with a dust of sugar. 



BAKED I'UDDINOS. 63 



CHARLOTTE OF BLACK CURRANTS. 
Reducs 2 qts of black cunauts with 2 ozs butter and 
G ozs sugar; fiuish as for charlotte of apples. 

CHARLOTTE OF PEARS. 

Proceed with pears, as for a charlotte of apples, with 
the addition of 4 yolks of eggs, and the juice of half a 
lemon to the puree. 

CHERRY PUDDING A LA CHICAGO. 

Prepare a compote of cherries; put them into a deep 
buttered tart dish; cover an inch deep with a rich fraugi- 
pan mixture (see- fraugipan and apple souffle), flavored 
with noyeau, which again cover with boiling cream 
thickened with arrowroot; bake, and before serving, dust 
with sugar, and salamander. 

CHERRY PUDDING A LA DOUGLASS. 
Proceed as for damson pudding a la Douglass, with a 
compote of cherries; flavor the batter with a glass of 
noyeau. 

CHEESE CURD PUDDING OR CHEESECAKE. 

Mix with the dry beat curd of 3 pts milk, 6 ozs of 
well washed and picked currants, sugar to taste, a little 
lemon zest, and the yolks of 4 eggs beat in ^ pt scalded 
cream, add 1 glass of brandy; mix well and put into a 
tourte tin lined with pufi" paste; bake, and serve with a 
dust of sugar. 

To make the curd, put new milk into a clean pan and 
sot it by the side of the fire so that it will keep blood 
warm; put a spoonful of rennet into it, not too much, or 
it will make the curd hard and the whey very salt; in a 
a short time it will separate into curd and whey; cut the 
former into small pieces with a knife. 



64 BAKED PUDDINGS. 



A large variety of cheesecakes may be made from the 
above recipe by the addition of proper flavors and ma- 
terials. 

CITRON PUDDING. 

Line a flat tourte tin with pufl paste; lay at the bot- 
tom 3 ozs citron peel, cut very tliiu; beat 3 ozs of butter 
to a cream, work in the same of sugar and 3 eggs; pour 
this over and cover with another ounce of citron cut as 
before; bake and serve with a dust of sugar and whipped 
cream in a boat. 

CLEREMONT PUDDING. 
Cut some thin slices of bread; stamp out with a 2-inch 
circular cutter about 40 or 50 rounds, fry in butter and 
place them in alternate layers with 1 ft) stoned cherries, 
in a buttered pudding dish; fill up with a cold custard 
of 4 eggs and 1 pt milk, flavored with one glass of each 
brandy and wine; sweeten to taste and bake of a rich 
color. 

CORA LYNN DARIOLE PUDDINGS. 

Line some dariole moulds with puff j^aste, put a small 
piece of butter in each, and fill with the following mix- 
ture: Take a large spoonful of flcur, mix it with 1 egg, 
5 yolks, 3 spoonfuls of sugar, 8 dariole moulds full oi 
cream, 4 macaroons bruised fine, and a little orange 
flower water; bake, and serve with black currant jelly 
sauce. 

CORN STARCH PUDDING. 

Mix 3 tablespoons corn starch in a little cold milk; 
put 1 qt of milk on the fire with a little cinnamon and 
the rind of a lemon; sweeten to taste; when nearly boil- 
ing, stir in the mixed corn starch and boil (stirring it 



BAKED PUDDINGS. 65 



briskly) for four minutes; take out the cinnamon and 
rind, and when cool, stir up with it thoroughly 3 beat 
eggs; put into a buttered dish and bake. 

COTTAGE PUDDING (CHEAP). 
Put into a deep dish | tb rice, \ fc moist sugar or mo- 
lasses, 2 qts milk, and 2 ozs of dripping; it will take 
some time baking. 

CUSTARD PUDDING. 

Put 1 pt milk into a stewpan with half a stick of cin- 
namon, the rind of a lemon, and three cloves; bring this 
to a boil, and strain it over 4 yolks and 4 whole eggs 
beat; mix well with the whisk, adding one glass each of 
brandy, rum and noyeau, and a little pineapple syrup; 
bake slowly in a buttered dish, and serve with whipped 
cream in a boat. 

CRECI PUDDING. 
Mix together 1 ft raw carrot grated, 1 ft bread crumbs, 
the yolks of 8 and the whites of 4 eggs beat in ^ pt cream, 
■^ ft melted butter, ^ pt sherry, 2 spoonfuls of orange 
flower water, and sugar to taste; pour into a dish lined 
with puff paste; bake about an hour. 

DAMSON PUDDING A LA CHICAGO. 

Stew ^ pt damsons in a sugar boiler as for raspberry 
and currant pudding a la Chicago; finish as for cherry 
pudding a la Chicago. 

DAMSON PUDDING A LA DOUGLASS. 

Put 1 pt dam3ons into the bottom of a dish with \ ft 
SI gar; flavor the batter with two glasses of rum; proceed 
as for apple pudding a la Douglass. 



BAKED PUDDINGS. 



DATE PUDDING. 
Stone and pound to a paste | ib dates; add the juice 
of a lemon, 6 ozs butter, ^ doz eggs, 2 glasses of brandy, 
\ lb sugar, and 2 ozs bread crumbs; mix well together 
and bake for 20 minutes in a buttered dish. 

DUNDEE MARMALADE PUDDING A LA WASH- 
INGTON. 
Reduce sufficient orange marmalade over the fire; let 
it cool in the pot and proceed as for apple pudding a la 
Washington ; serve with Seville orange arrowroot sauce. 

EGERTON PUDDING. 

Cream J ft) of butter with a wooden spoon in a stew- 
pai) ; add 6 ozs sugar and lastly 5 eggs beat as usual, and 
a glass of noyeau; pour into a dish lined withpufif paste; 
bake about half an hour. 

EGG PUDDING. 

Mix together and put into a buttered dish | ft) chopped 
beef suet, ^ doz eggs boiled hard and minced, and 6 ozs 
Sultana raisins; fill up with a cold custard of 3 eggs and 
1 pt milk, flavored with 2 glasses of brandy, and sweet- 
ened to taste; bake about half an hour. 

EGG CHEESE CURD PUDDING. 
Boil with lemon peel and cinnamon, 1 qt milk or 
cream; add 8 eggs well beat and a little salt; sweeten 
iuid flavor with two glasses of rum; stir and let this boil 
uutil it curdles, and the whey is completely separated; 
(liain it well on a sieve, add \ lb butter, put into a dish 
]ined with puff paste, and bake. 

FRENCH BARLEY PUDDING. 

Boil 6 ozs French barley until soft; stir in 6 ozs of but- 



BAKED PUDDINGS. 67 



ter, ^ lb sugar, and the yolks of 2 eggs, and three whole 
ones; add a few orange flowers, and bake in a buttered 
pudding dish. 

GERMAN PUDDINGS. 

Mix ^ ft) butter and \ lb sugar; add | lb flour, 4 eggs, 
the zest of a lemon, and ^ pt milk; stir all well together; 
bake in dariole moulds and serve with melted butter 
sauce. 

GOOSEBERRY PUDDING A LA CHAUNTRY. 

Stew some green gooseberries until they will puree 
through a sieve; when cold, add 6 ozs butter, ^ ft) Savoy 
biscuit, sugar to taste, 4 eggs, and one glass of brandy; 
mix well, put into a buttered dish, bake, and serve as 
usual with a dust of sugar. 

GOOSEBERRY PUDDING A LA CHICAGO. 

Make a gooseberry fool; finish as for Cherry Pudding 
a la Chicago. 

GOOSEBERRY PUDDING A LA WASHINGTON. 
Reduce some gooseberry jam, let it cool in a jam pot; 
proceed as for Apricot Pudding a la Washington; serve 
with red gooseberry sauce. 

GREENGAGE PUDDING A LA DOUGLASS. 
Proceed as for Apricot or Peach Pudding a la Doug- 
lass, with 2 doz greengages. 

GREENGAGE PUDDING A LA WASHINGTON. 
Proceed with greengage jam as for Apricot Pudding 
a la Washington; serve with greengage jam sauce. 

GROAT PUDDING. 
Soak ^ lb whole groats in 1 pt milk for 12 hours; add 



68 BAKED PUDDINGS. 



^ ft) Sultana raisins, 6 ozs veal suet chopped fine, four 
eygs, and sweeten to taste; bake in a buttered dish 1^ 
hours. 

GROUND RICE PUDDING. 

Mix in a stewpan 3 ozs ground rice, half a stick of 
cinnamon, 1^ pts milk, and the zest of a lemon; sweeten 
to taste, put it on the fire, and stir with a wooden spoon 
until it boils; then pour it into a basin; when cool, add 
4 eggs; bake for half an hour in a buttered dish; grate 
a little nutmeg on the top and serve. The cinnamon 
should not be left in the pudding. 

HOGARTH PUDDING. 

Add the yolks of 10 eggs to 1 pt milk; flavor with half 

a glass of rum and a few drops of essence of almonds; 

bake in a very moderate oven until quite set in the 

pudding dish. This forms a cheap substitute for almond 

pudding. 

lONELLA PUDDING. 

Have some macaroni boiled tender; cut it into pieces 

li inches long; line a pie dish with puflf paste cuttings; 

put in a layer of macaroni, and the following preserves 

in equal quantities: apricot and raspberry jam, orange 

marmalade, and apple jelly; half fill the dish in this 

manner; fill up with a cold custard of 4 eggs, | pt milk 

and \ pt cream; flavor to taste and bake. 

IPSWICH PUDDING. 
Steep in 1^ pts cream 3 ozs bread crumbs and a spoon- 
ful or two of water; beaf. ttie yolks of 8 eggs and the 
whites of 5 with \ ft sugar; mix all with \ tb melted 
butler; stir well ovtr n slow fire until it thickens; line a 
dibh with pas' paste; pour in the mixture and bake for 
half an hour. . 



BAKED PUDDINGS, 69 



ITALIAN CITRON PUDDING. 
Beat well together 1 pt cream and the yolks of -J doz 
eggs; add J ib sugar, \ tb citron, cut fine, 2 spoonfuls of 
flour, and a little nutmeg; put the mixture into a mould; 
decorate on the bottom with citron, cut fancifully; bake 
and serve with black currant sauce (1). 

LEMON PUDDING. 

1 pt cream. 4 whites of eggs, beat. 

^ lb ratafias. ^ grated nutmeg. 

Jiiice and zest of | doz 12 ozs powdered sugar. 
lemons. Cinnamon to taste. 

12 yolks of eggs. 

IM'x the above together with a whisk for five minutes; 
put a border of puff" paste round a buttered tart dish; 
put the batter into this dish; strew chopped pistachios 
over the top, and bake for 1^ hours; serve with a dust 
of sugar. 

LEMON CHEESE CURD PUDDING. 

Cut into slices four sponge biscuits, and soak them in 
a gill of cream; add the zest and juice of three lemons, 
with I ib each of butter and sugar, a little mixed spice 
and three eggs; bake as for Cheese Curd Pudding, deco- 
rating with candied lemon peel. 

LEMON PUDDING A LA JOSEPHINE. 

Proceed as for Orange Pudding a la Josephine, sub- 
stitutiug lemons in place of oranges. 

MACARONI PUDDING. 

Boil ^ ib Naples macaroni in water until half done ; 

cut it in lengths, and finish boiling in milk; when done, 

add 4 beat eggs and a glass of brandy; sweeten to 

taste, and bake in a buttered dish, with a few bits of 



70 BAKED PUDDINGS. 

butter on the top; serve with grated nutmeg and a dust 
of sugar. 

MANFRED APPLE PUDDING. 
Pare, core and slice 1 tb apples in a small stewpau 
with a stick of cinnamon, 4 cloves, and a little water; 
when the apples are soft, sweeten to taste, pass them 
through a sieve, and add the yolks of 4 eggs, \ tb butter, 
iind the zest and juice of a lemon; mix well and bake 
lor half an hour in a dish lined with puff paste. 

MARROW PUDDING. 

Put a large cupful of bread crumbs into a basin; pour 
over it 1^ pts of thin boiling cream, and let it swell; 
chop fine ^ ft maiTOw, and add this to the crumbs, with 
2 ozs of stoned raisins, 2 ozs currants, 5 eggs, and a little 
grated nutmeg; sweeten to taste; pour into a baking 
dish and bake. 

MARROW CITRON PUDDING. 

Pour over a French loaf, cut in slices, | pt boiling 
milk; when soaked, put it on the fire in a stewpan, and 
work it into a paste with a wooden spoon; then pound it 
in a mortar with 2 whole eggs and the yolks of six; after 
which put the whole in a stewpan, with the zest of a 
lemon, \ ft citron, chopped fine, 2 ozs macaroons, 
bruised, 3 ozs currants, 3 ozs muscadine raisins, 6 ozs 
marrow chopped fine, and a glass of sherry; sweeten fo 
to taste and bake in a mould; serve with marrow pudding 
sauce. 

MONTEITH APRICOT PUDDING. 

Pour 1 pt boiling cream over 6 ozs bread crumbs; 
when cold, add the yolks of 4 eggs, a glass of sherry, 
and sweeten to taste; stone, peel and pound 10 apricots; 



BAKED PUDDINGS. 71 



mix tbem with the above ingredients adding the beat 
'•. hites of 3 eggs stirred in lightly at the last; bake in a 
bittered dish. 

MONTEITH NECTAKINE PUDDING. 

Proceed with Nectarines as for Monteith Apricot 
Pudding. 

MONTEITH PEACH PUDDING. 

Proceed with peaches as for Monteith Apricot Pud- 
ding, adding a few drops of peach kernel essence. 

MEHL BRIE PUDDING. 

Take ^ lb flour, ^ lb sugar, 1^ pts milk, 1^ pts cream, 
and a pinch of salt; stir the whole with a wooden spoon 
in a stewpan over the fire, until it is reduced to half; 
place an untinned baking dish over the stove to get hot; 
spread the mixture over the baking sheet very thinly, 
brown it, remove from the fire, cut enough rounds from 
it with a circular cutter to fill a buttered dish; turn 
sufficient orange marmalade over this, fill up with a plain 
cold custard, and bake until set. 

NORBERRY PUDDING. 

Line a mould with trimmings of puff paste; fill it 
with flour; bake it and remove the flour; fill up with 
the following preparation: Mix in with 1 pt double 
cream, 3 whole eggs and 4 yolks, add a dariole mouldful 
(if apricot syrup; sweeten to taste; bake carefully until 
set ; serve with apple jelly sauce. 

A great variet}^ of puddings may be made by varying 
tbe above recipe. 

ORANGE PUDDING. 

Proceed as for Lemon Pudding, but double the quan- 
tity of oranges may be used, owing to their not contain- 



BAKED PUDDINGS. 



iDg as much acid as lemon; but the zest of three will be 
sufficient. 

ORANGE PUDDING A LA JOSEPHINE. 
Boil the peel of 8 or 10 oranges in a little boiling water 
until tender; pound it in a mortar; add ^ lb clarified 
butter, two tablespoonsful of cream, 2 ozs sponge biscuit 
crumbs, the juice of one orange, 4 yolks and one whole 
egg; put into a tourte tin lined with puff paste; decorate 
the top with candied orange peel, and bake. 

ORANGE PUDDING A LA CHICAGO. 
Proceed with a compote of ^ doz oranges as for Rasp- 
berry and Currant Pudding a la Chicago. 

ORANGE CHEESE CURD PUDDING. 

Proceed with oranges as for Lemon Cheese Curd Pud- 
ding; decorate with candied orange peel. 

PATRICIAN APPLE PUDDING. 
Mix ^ ft) apples (when grated or finely chopped) with 
^ lb sugar, 6 ozs ^butter, the juice and zest of a lemon, 
and 5 eggs, leaving out the whites of two; line a dish 
with puff paste, and bake for ^ hour. 

PATRICIAN APRICOT PUDDING. 
Proceed with a puree of ^ doz apricots as for Patrician 
apple pudding. 

PATRICIAN BLACK CURRANT OR PINE APPLE 
PUDDING. 

Proceed as for Patrician apple pudding with a puree 
of black currants, or pine apple. 



BAKED PUDDINGS. 73 



PATEICTAN DAMSON PUDDING. 
Proceed as for Patrician apple pudding with a puree 
of ^ pt damsons. 

PATKICIAN GOOSEBEREY OR RHUBARB PUD- 
DING. 

Proceed as for Patrician apple pudding with a goose- 
berry or rhubarb fool. 

PATRICIAN GREENGAGE, STRAWBERRY OR 
RASPBERRY PUDDING. 

Make these puddings as for Patrician apple pudding, 
with a i)uree of 10 greengages, ^ ft> strawberries, or ^ ib 
raspberries. 

PATRICIAN PEAR PUDDING. 

Proceed with pears as for Patrician apple pudding. 

PEAR PUDDING A LA DOUGLASS. 
Proceed with pears as for apple pudding a la Douglass, 
squeezing the juiee of a lemon over them, and omitting 
the cloves. 

PINE APPLE PUDDING A LA WASHINGTON. 

Make this pudding with some pine apple jam, reduced 
stiff; finish as for apricot pudding a la Washington. 

PISTACHIO PUDDING. 
Mix ^ ft) blanched and very finely chopped pistachios 
with a frangipan and apple souffle mixture, and flavor 
with kirschwasser; put into a dish, and bake with a few 
bits of butter on the top for 15 or 20 minutes; serve 
with chopped pistachios strewed over the top. 



BAKED PUDDINGS. 



POOR MAN'S PUDDING. 
To 1 ft) of hot mashed potatoes add ^ ib suet, 2 ozs 
flour, a little sugar, and as much milk as will give it the 
consistency ol a suet pudding; put it into a buttered 
dish and bake a fine brown. 

POTATO CHEESE CURD PUDDING. 
Boil or roast ^ ft> good mealy potatoes; take off their 
skias and press them fine; then reduce \ lb good butter 
to a cream; mix this with the yolks of 3 eggs, 3 ozs pow- 
deied loaf sugar, a piece of stale Savoy or pound cake 
crumbled, and a little essence of lemon; mix as for pound 
cake, adding the potato pulp after the butter and sugar, 
using a few currants if desirable, 

POTATO FLOUR PUDDING. 

Stir four spoonsful of the flour mixed in a little cold 
milk into 1 qt boiling milk sweetened and flavored well; 
add five eggs beat, and a glass of rum; bake in a but- 
tered dish for a quarter of an hour. 

POTATO PUDDING. 

Mix I ft) potatoes boiled and rubbed through a sieve, 
6 ozs sugar, and 6 ozs clarified butter, with 6 yolks of eggs 
and the zest of a lemon; beat up the whites stiff and add; 
bake in a buttered dish. 

POULETTE APPLE PUDDING. 
Boil as for Rice pudding ^ ib ground rice; mix this 
with some candied orange, lemon and citron peel cut 
Mile, U) the puree of a dozen apples baked; add sugar to 
tasste, a little cinnamon powder, and the yolks of ^ doz 
egys; stir in the six whites beat firm, and put into a 



BAKED PUDDINGS, 75 



mould, lined with puff paste trimmings; bake for more 
than half an hour and serve with damson sauce. 

QUINCE PUDDING A LA WASHINGTON. 
Proceed with quince jam, sharpened with the juice of 
half a lemon, as for Black Currant pudding a la Wash- 
ington. 

RASPBEBRY PUDDING A LA WASHINGTON. 

Proceed as for Strawberry pudding a la Washington, 
substituting raspberry jam; omit the whipt cream, and 
serve with raspberry jam sauce. 

RASPBERRY AND CURRANT PUDDING A LA 
CHICAGO. 

Proceed as for Cherry Pudding a la Chicago, substi- 
tuting the following preparation of raspberries and cur- 
rants for the compote of cherries: Put ^ lb each of 
raspberries and red currants into a sugar-boiler, with 6 
ozs sugar, for five minutes over the fire; add a little 
arrowroot, and half a glass of curacoa. 

For strawberries, proceed in the same manner, omit- 
ting the currants. 

RHUBARB PUDDING A LA CHICAGO. 

Proceed as for Cherry pudding a la Chicago, with a 
stiff rhubarb fool. 

RICE PUDDING. 

Wash a large cupful of rice in cold water; boil it in 
water for six minutes; drain off the water and put the 
rice on in 1^ pts milk; let it boil until soft, .slirring 
occasionally to prevent it burning; when done, put it 



BAKED PUDDINGS. 



into a basin, stir in a pat of butter, and when cold add 
4 eggs, a little ground cinnamon, grated nutmeg and 
lemon zest; sweeten to taste, and bake in a buttered 
pudding dish, in a moderate oven, putting a few bits of 
butter over the pudding; when done serve with a dust 
( f s gar. 

SAGO PUDDING. 
Proceed with 6 ozs of sago as for Tapioca pudding. 

SAXON PUDDING. 

Put into a basin about 6 spoonfuls of flour, a tea- 
spoon of salt, and a little grated nutmeg; mix this 
gradually with 1 qt milk, i doz eggs, \ lb moist sugar, 
and a glass of brandy; line a dish with paste trimmings; 
put in the batter, and bake in a moderate oven. 

SEMOLINA PUDDING. 

I ib semolina. 1 pt cream. 

6 ozs sugar. 1 tablespoon orange flower 

^ ft) butter. water. 

8 eggs. 2 ozs ratafias. 

Mix the semolina with the sugar, orange flower water, 
hiilf the butter, two eggs, the cream and salt, in a stew- 
pan ; stir this over the fire until it boils, then continue 
stirring until it is smooth and detaches from the sides; 
withdraw it from the fire, and gradually mix in the re- 
mainder of the eggs, butter, and bruised ratafias; put 
this into a mould, put the mould into a deep saucepan 
half full of hot water, place in the oven and bake for 1\ 
hours; serve with red currant jelly sauce. 

SIMPLE PUDDINGS. 
Beat four eggs; mix ^ fb flour with 1 pt milk very 



BAKED PUDDINGS. 77 



smoothly; add it to the eggs, and sweeten and flavor to 
taste; bake for about 25 minutes in buttered teacups 
filled three parts full; serve with melted butter sauce. 

STRAWBEERY PUDDING A LA WASHINGTON. 

Proceed as for Apricot Pudding a la Washington, sub- 
stituting strawberry jam for the apricot; serve with 
strawberry sauce, and whipt cream, in a boat. 

STRUNG PUDDING. 
Line a tourte tin with puff paste; put in this a thick 
and well flavored frangipan custard (see frangipan and 
apple souffle) ; string this across the top, which is done 
by means of a piece of puff paste rubbed down on the 
pastry slab with flour and water, until it can be pulled 
out into strings; bake in a moderate oven. 

SWISS PUDDING. 
Put a layer of bread crumbs, a layer of sliced apples, 
and a layer of apricots, in alternate layers, in a buttered 
pudding dish, the last layer being of bread crumbs; fill 
up with a mixture of half cream and half milk, sweetened 
to taste; bake and serve with a dust of sugar. 

TAPIOCA PUDDING. 

Put ^ ft) tapioca into a stewpan with 1^ pts milk, J lb 
sugar, 2 ozs butter, and the zest of a lemon; put on the 
fire, and when tender stir until it boils; remove it, add 4 
eggs, and bakfe in a buttered dish for 1^ hours. 

VERMICELLI PUDDING. 

Put I pt milk and 1 gill cream, together with half a 
stick of cinnamon and four cloves, on the fire in a stew- 
pan; when it comes to a boil, take out the cinnamon and 



78 



bake;d puddings. 



cloves, and stir in 3 ozs broken vermicelli; put this into 
a basin and let it cool; add 4 eggs, 2 ozs butter, and 
sweeten to taste; pour into a buttered dish, and bake 
with a few pieces of butter on the top; serve with 
grated nutmeg and a dust of sugar. 

WAFER PUDDING. 
Mix together 2 tablespoons of flour and half a spoon- 
ful of sugar; add 3 well beat eggs, and stir until as 
smooth as butter; melt 1^ ozs butter in 1 gill hot cream; 
when cold mix all well together, and flavor with lemon 
zest; put into dariole moulds buttered, with a dried 
cherry in the bottom of each; bake for about 10 minutes 
in a quick oven and serve with reduced wine sauce. 



CHAPTEK VI. 
Pastry Cream Puddings. 

To make the pastry cream for puddings, boil ^ pt 
each of milk and cream, with the peel of a lemon and 
some sugar; put this into a stewpan with the yolks of 
I doz eggs and two spoonfuls of flour; mix this with 
a wooden spoon and dilute with the above; stir over the 
fire until it boils, and work it well for live or six 
minutes; then mix in ^ ib clarified butter with the 
paste; put it into a basin and stir until cold; if it is too 
thick add a little cream. 

To prepare and bake pastry cream puddings, line a 
flat tourte dish (previously buttered) with trimmings of 
pufif paste; spread the bottom with the ingredients in- 
tended to be used, over which pour some of the pastry 
cream; bake for about an hour; when done slip the 
pudding from the tourte tin onto a dish, which has been 
previously spread with whipt cream, about \ inch thick; 
serve immediately. All pastry cream puddings are 
baked and served in the same manner, so that, in the 
lollowing recipes, for brevity's sake, only the fillings are 
given. 

Frpsh fruit pastry-cream puddings. — Where puddings 
\vi;h pastry cream are made of fresh fruits, the following 
;idditional directions need to be observed; put the fruit 
]inieed or otherwise prepared, in the bottom of a small 
cutbenware pudding dish, previously lined and rimmed 



80 PASTRY CREAM PUDDINGS. 

with puflf paste; till up with pastry cream; bake half 
an hour; tcask with whipt cream on the top, and serv.,> 
immediately. In the following recipes where fresh frait 
is intended to be used it is so marked in brackets after 
the name of the pudding. 

ALMOND PUDDING. 
Beat -to a paste in a mortar \ ib blanched sweet al-. 
monds and four bitter ones, with one glass of noyeau 
and one of plain water; mix with some pastry cream; 
bake in a lined tourte tin and serve as usual. 

APPLE PUDDING (FEESH.) 
Make a puree of | doz apples and ^ lb apricot jam ; 
put this in the bottom of a small earthenware pudding 
dish, previously lined and rimmed with puff paste; fill 
up with pastry cream flavored with cloves; bake half an 
hour; mask with whipt cream on the top and serve im- 
mediately. 

APEICOT PUDDING (FRESH.) 
Proceed as for Fresh Peach pudding, substituting a 
little apricot syrup to taste, for the peach kernel essence 
in the pastry cream. 

APRICOT JAM PUDDING. 
Spread the bottom of a lined tourte tin with a &mall 
pot of apricot jam and the juice of half a lemon; fill up 
with pastry cream. 

BLACK CURRA.NT PUDDING (FRESH.) 
Proceed as for Fresh Red Currant pudding. 

BRANDY PUDDING. 
Flavor some pastry cream with 3 glasses of French 



PASTRY CREAM PUDDINGS. 81- 

brandy; finish as usual with the addition of a few 
chopped cherry kernels sprinkled on the top. 

CHERRY PUDDING (FRESH). 
Proceed with a compote of ^ ib cherries as for Fresh 
Damson pudding. 

CHOCOLATE PUDDING. 
Scrape three fillets chocolate; melt in two glasses of 
sherry over the fire; mix with pastry cream and finish 
as usual. 

CITRON PUDDING. 

Cut one cap of citron in very small dice; mix this 
with some pastry cream; pour into the tourte dish and 
cover with very thin strips of citron. 

COCOANUT PUDDING. 
Add a grated cocoauut and a glass of maraschino to 
some pastry cream. 

COFFEE PUDDING.. 
Flavor some pastry cream with essence of coffee and 
two glasses of brandy; finish and serve as usual. 
CUR AGO A PUDDING. 
Flavor some pastry cream with three glasses of cura- 
coa; add the juice of a small orange and a little lemon 
juice. 

DAMSON PUDDING (FRESH). 
Stone ^ ib ripe damsons; pass -them over the fire in a 
sugar boiler with J tb sugar, for five minutes; place them 
in the prepared dish and finish as usual. 

FILBERT PUDDING. 

Shell and blanch ^ ib filberts and proceed as for Al- 
mond pudding. 



82 PASTliy CKEAM PUDDINGS. 

GINGER PUDDING. 
Put a layer of preserved ginger at the bottom of the 
pudding; fill up with pastry cream, flavored with ginger 
syrup. 

GOOSEBERRY PUDDING (FRESH). 
Put a stiff gooseberry fool in the bottom of the pre- 
pared dish. 

GREEN FIG PUDDING (FRESH). 
Cut ^ doz ripe green figs into slices, and proceed as 
for Fresh Pear pudding. 

GREENGAGE PUDDING (FRESH). 
Stone 8 or 10 fresh greengages, and finish as for Pear 
pudding. 

GREENGAGE JAM PUDDING. 

Proceed as for Apricot Jam pudding, substituting 
greengage jam. 

KIRSCHWASSER PUDDING. 

Flavor some pastry cream with two glasses _of kirsch- 

wasser; finish as usual, decorating the pudding with dried 

cherries. 

LEMON PUDDING. 

Proceed as for Orange pudding, substituting lemon 
zest and juice, and decorating with candied lemon peel. 

MACAROON PUDDING. 

Mix ^ lb bruised macroons, and two glasses of madeira 
with some pastry cream; fill the lined tourte tin with 
this; cover the top with fillets of almond; finish and 
serve as usual. 

MARASCHINO PUDDING. 
Flavor some pastry cream with three glasses of 



PASTRY CREAM PUDDINGS. 83 

maraschino; finish and serve as usual, with the addition 
of half a glass of maraschino poured over the pudding. 

MARMALADE PUDDING. 

Spread the bottom of tlie lined tourte dish with orange 
marmalade; squeeze over this the juice of a small orange; 
pour over this pastry cream and finish as usual. 

MINCEMEAT PUDDING. 

Add a glass of brandy to | lb mincemeat; put this at 
the bottom of the lined tourte tin; fill up with pastry 
cream; flavor with two glasses of brandy, and finish as 
usual. 

NOYEAU PUDDING. 

Proceed as for Maraschino pudding, with the addition 
of the juice of half a lemon. 

ORANGE PUDDING. 

Add the zest of three oranges and the juice of one, 
to pastry cream; finish as usual, decorating the top of 
the pudding with candied orange peel. 

ORANGE FLOWER PUDDING. 

Mix a dariole mould full of orange flowers with some 
pastry cream, and finish as usual. 

PEACH PUDDING (FRESH). 
Peel, halve, and stone ^ doz ripe peaches, and proceed 
as for Fresh Pear pudding; add a few drops of peach 
kernel essence to the pastry cream. 

PEAR PUDDING (FRESH). 
Peel, core and slice thinly four or six mellow pears 
put them in the bottom of a prepared dish with 2 ozs 
sugar; fill up with pastry cream, and finish _as usual. 



84 PASTRY CREAM PUDDINGS. 

PINE APPLE PUDDING (FRESH). 

Peel and cut up a small pine apple in thin slices; take 
out the middle with a round cutter; place the pine rings 
in a copper sugar boiler with some weak syrup, and 
simmer until tender; place these in rather a larger sized 
prepared dish than the small one generally used; finish 
as usual, adding some of the syrup reduced, to flavor the 
pastry cream. 

PINE APPLE JAM PUDDING. 

Proceed as for Apricot Jam pudding, with pine apple 
jam, sharpened with the juice of half a lemon. 

PINK NOYEAU PUDDING. 
Proceed with pink noyeau as for noyeau pudding, 
adding a few drops of cochineal. 

PUNCH PUDDING. 
Flavor the pastry cream with three glasses of Jamaica 
rum, and one glass of very strong green tea; finish and 
serve as usual. 

QUINCE JAM PUDDING. 
Proceed with quince jam as for apricot jam pudding, 
adding the juice of half a lemon and a little apple jelly 
to the jam. 

RASPBERRY PUDDING (FRESH). 
Pick I lb raspberries, and place them at the bottom of 
the prepared dish with \ lb sugar; finish as usual, add- 
ing the juice of a lemon to the pastry cream. 

RASPBERRY AND CURRANT PUDDING (FRESH). 

Take ^ lb each I'aspberries and picked red currants; 
pass them over the fire together in a copper sugar boiler, 



PASTRY CREAM PUDDINGS. 86 

with J ft) sugar, for five minutes; place them in the bot- 
tom of the prepared dish, and finish as usual. 

RASPBERRY JAM PUDDING. 
Proceed as for Strawberry Jam pudding, substituting 
raspberry jam. 

RATAFIA PUDDING. 

Soak 2 ozs ratifias in two or three glasses of sherry; 
place these at the bottom of the lined tourte tin, and 
cover with pastry cream; flavor with a little essence of 
ratafia; finish and serve as usual. 

RED CURRANT PUDDING (FRESH). 
Proceed with 1 pt red currants as for Fresh Damson 
pudding. 

RED GOOSEBERRY JAM PUDDING. 
Proceed with red gooseberry jam, as for Apricot Jam 
pudding. 

RHUBARB PUDDING (FRESH). 
Make a stiflf rhubarb fool, and finish as usual. 

RICE PUDDING. 
Boil 2 ozs rice in milk; sweeten and pass it through a 
tammy; add a glass of double cream, and spread the 
bottom of a lined tourte tin with it; grate a little nut- 
meg over the top, and fill up with some pastry cream; 
flavor with cinnamon, and finish as usual. 

STRAWBERRY PUDDING (FRESH). 
Proceed as for raspberries, adding the juice of half a 
lemon only, to the pastry cream. 



86 



PASTRY CKEAM PUDDINGS. 



STRAWBERRY JAM PUDDING.. 

Put a small pot of strawberry jam, sharpened with the 
juice of a lemon, at the bottom of the lined tourte tin; 
fill up with pastry cream and finish as usual. 

VANILLA PUDDING. 
Flavor the cream with two tablespoonsful of vanilla 
sugar; finish as usual, serving with a dust of vanilla 
sugar. 

WALNUT PUDDING. 
Proceed as for Almond pudding, with 2 doz walnuts 
shelled and peeled, and substituting u glass of brandy 
for the noyeau. 




CHAPTEE YII. 
SWEET SOUFFLES. 

To prepare Souffle Cases, see Chapter I. 

ALMOND SOUFFLE. 
Pound ^ ft) almonds with a little water; work this 
paste into lemon souffle mixture, with one glass of 
noyeau. 

ANGELICA SOUFFLE. 
Chop up three sticks of candied angelica; work in 
with lemon souffle mixture; finish with a few drops of 
essence of almonds. 

APPLE SOUFFLE. 

Peel, core, and slice up a dozen apples; put them in a 
stewpan with 3 ozs of butter, the zest of a lemon, and a 
little nutmeg; set over the fire until the apples are done, 
stirring occasionally to prevent them burning; add 
about 5 ozs bread crumbs, and sugar to taste; remove 
from the fire, stir in seven yolks of eggs, J pt cream, and 
a glass of brandy, adding the whites beat; pour into 
souffle lining, and bake about | hour; remove the paper, 
put it in the souffle case immediately, with a dust of 
sugar on top, and serve. 

APRICOT SOUFFLE. 
Melt 1 ft) apricot jam over the fire; puree it and add 
to lemon souffle mixture, in which not quite so much 
milk has been used. 



SWEET SOUFFLES. 



BEIGNETS SOUFFLES. 
Put about a pint of water into a sauce pan with a few 
grains of salt, a piece of butter the size of an egg, and as 
much sugar, with plenty of grated lemon peel. When 
the water boils, throw gradually into it sufficient flour to 
form a thick paste; then take it off the fire, let it remain 
ten minutes, and work into it three or four eggs, reserv- 
ing the whites of one or two, which whisk to a froth, and 
mix into the paste. Let it rest a couple of hours, then 
proceed to fry by dropping pieces of it, the size of a 
walnut, into hot lard. Serve piled up on a dish with 
powdered sugar over, and a lemon cut in quarters; or 
make an incision in each beignet, and insert a small piece 
of jam or jelly. 

BLACK CURRANT SOUFFLE. 
Proceed with 1 ft) black currant jam, as for Apricot 
Souffle. 

BREAD SOUFFLE. 
Boil 1 pt milk, and pour it over the crumbs of three 
French rolls; when soaked, rub the bread through a 
sieve; sweeten and flavor to taste with spices; add the 
yolks of ■J doz eggs, and eight whites beat stiff; bake as 
usual. 

BROWN BREAD SOUFFLE. 
Boil 1 pt cream, and pour it over | lb brown bread 
crumbs, two pats of butter, 6 ozs sugar, the zest of a 
lemon, and nearly a teaspoon cinnamon powder; stir the 
whole over the fire until it forms into a sort of smooth 
paste; remove and add 8 yolks of eggs; finish with the 
whites beat stiff as usual. 



SWEET SOUFFLES. 



BYRON SOUFFLE. 

Put a layer of frangipau and apple souffle mixture on 
the bottom of a souffle lining; a layer of sponge cake 
cut in slices and soaked in wine, and some apricot jam; 
proceed thus in alternate layers until the dish is full; 
bake about 20 minutes; take out of the oven and mask 
the top with meringue; dust with sugar, and when this 
is dried in the hot closet, remove the paper and serve in 
silver case. 

CARAMEL SOUFFLE. 

Flavor lemon souffle mixture with a tablespoonful of 
well made burnt sugar, and two glasses of brandy. 

CHERRY PUREE SOUFFLE. 
Pick the stalks from 2^ lbs cherries; pound them in a 
mortar so as to break the stones; they must then be 
placed in a small preserving pan, with about -J pt claret 
and 12 ozs sugar; let this boil; remove the scum as it 
rises, and after they have boiled about 10 minutes rub 
the whole through a sieve, and then pour it into a souffle 
case; cut 12 pieces of bread in the shape of eggs; fry in 
butter; drain and place them in close circular rows in 
the puree; fill up with pastry cream; bake for about 1^ 
hours, and send to the table in the silver souffle case. 

CHERRY SOUFFLE. 
Mix J ft) preserved cherries, and ^ glass each of 
brandy and noyeau, with lemon souffle mixture. 

CHINESE SOUFFLE. 
Make a strong decoction of tea, which mix with lemon 
souffle mixture, adding a glass of brandy. 



90 SWEET SOUFFLES. 



CHOCOLATE SOUFFLE. 
Scrape four fillets of chocolate; melt it in a little sher- 
ry, and work it with lemon souffle mixture. 

CITRON SOUFFLE. 
Add \ lb citron, chopped fine, and the zest of an 
orange, to lemon souffle mixture. 

COFFEE SOUFFLE. 
Put 6 ozs of whole coffee in a stewpau over the fire for 
a few minutes; then throw over it 1^ pts boiling milk 
and cream; let it stand at the corner of the stove, for 20 
minutes; strain and make lemon souffle mixture with 
this, instead of the plain milk, adding a glass of brandy. 
Essence of coffee is a very good substitute for the berry, 
and for quickness preferable. 

CURACOA SOUFFLE. 
Make a lemon souffle mixture, to which add two 
glasses of curacoa, and the juice of half a lemon. 

DANTZIC SOUFFLE. 

Add two glasses of Dantzic liquor, with a little orange 
zest, and the juice of half a lemon, to lemon souffle mix- 
ture. 

DUNDEE SOUFFLE. 

Proceed with 1 ib orange marmalade as for Apricot 
S )uffle. 

FILBERT SOUFFLE. 

Blanch and pound ^ lb filberts, and proceed as for Al- 
mond Souffle. 

FRANGIPAN AND APPLE SOUFFLE. 
Boil 1 pt milk and ^ pt cream, with the peel of a 
lemon, half a stick of cinnamon, and 2 ozs sugar; thick- 



SWEET SOUFFLES. 91 



en with a tablespoonful of the best Bermuda arrowroot; 
take out the peel and cinnamon and stir in 6 yolks of 
eggs; let this cool; butter a souffle case; slice some 
tipples at the bottom; cover with apricot jam; cover this 
with the frangipan, and again with the apple and jam in 
iilternate layers, which repeat until the dish is full; bake 
iu a moderate oven for one hour. 

A great variety may be made from this recipe. 

GARIBALDI SOUFFLE. 

Cut some macaroni up small; use it in alternate la}-- 
ers in the souffle lining with lemon souffle mixture. 

GINGER SOUFFLE. 
Prepare a lemon souffle mixture, adding 6 ozs pre- 
served ginger, cut up into very small dice. 

GOOSEBERRY SOUFFLE. 
Proceed as for Apple Souffle with a stifif puree of 3 
pts of green gooseberries; add extra sugar to taste. 

GREEN FIG SOUFFLE. 

Put on in a stewpan 8 green figs with 6 ozs of sugar, 
and tlie juice of half a lemon; when done puree them; 
reduce and mix with lemon souffle mixture. 

GREENGAGE SOUFFLE. 

Proceed with 1 lb greengage jam as for Apricot Souffle, 
adding the juice of half a lemon. 

GROUND RICE SOUFFLE. 

Dilute two tablespoons ground rice with half a pint of 
luilk, and the same of cream; bring it to a boil, stirring 
all the time; remove from the fire; flavor and sweeten 



92 SWEET SOUFFLES. 



to taste; add 2 ozs fresh butter, aud the yolks of seven 
eggs; stir in the beat whites; and bake as usual. 

INDIAN SOUFFLE. 

Grate two small cocoanuts, and add to lemon souffle 
mixture, with a glass of rum. 

KIRSCHWASSER SOUFFLE. 
Add three glasses of kirschwasser and the juice of 
half a lemon, to lemon souffle mixture. 

LEMON SOUFFLE. 
Stir J ft) butter with 6 ozs potato flour in a stewpan 
over the fire, 6 ozs sugar and the zest of three lemons; 
form this into a smooth paste, diluting it gradually with 
nearly 1 qt milk; when well mixed, remove from the 
fire and stir in 8 yolks of eggs (one at a time); beat the 
whites stifif and stir in; pour into souffle lining, and 
bake | hour; remove the paper, put it in the souffle case 
immediately, with dust of sugar on top, and serve. 

MACAROON SOUFFLE. 
Mix 6 ozs bruised macaroons, and a glass of noyeau, 
with lemon souffle mixture. 

MARASCHINO SOUFFLE. 
Proceed as for lemon souffle, using three glasses of 
maraschino. 

NECTARINE SOUFFLE. 
Proceed with a dozen nectarines as for peach souffle, 
omitting the essence of almond. 

NOYEAU SOUFFLE. 

Proceed as for Lemon Souffle, using three glasses of 
noyeau 



SWEET SOUFFLES. 93 



ORANGE FLOWER SOUFFLE. 
Make a mixture as for lemon souffle, adding a small 
handful of orange flowers. 

ORANGE SOUFFLE. 
Proceed as for lemon souffle, using the zest of oranges. 

PANCAKE SOUFFLE. 
Make about 1 doz English pancakes; spread each one 
with apricot jam, and a layer of lemon souffle mixture; 
make a pile of these; bake for about half an hour, and 
serve with a dust of sugar. 

PEACH SOUFFLE. 
Stone and peel ten ripe peaches; stir them over the 
fire in a stewpan with ^ lb sugar; add this to lemon 
souffle mixture, with two or three drops of essence of 
almonds. 

PEAR SOUFFLE. 

Peel, core and chop up ten pears; finish as for Apple 
Souffle. 

PINE APPLE SOUFFLE. 

Cut I ft) preserved pine apple into small dice; add 
this and a little of the syrup, to lemon souffle mixture. 

PISTACHIO SOUFFLE. 
Blanch and chop very finely 6 ozs pistachios; add 
them with half a glass of brandy to lemon souffle mix- 
ture. 

PL DM SOUFFLE. 

Stone 2 doz plums; put them on the fire with | ft 
sugar for ten minutes or more; press them through a 
sieve, and mix the puree with lemon souffle mixture. 



94 SWEET SOUFFLES. 



POTATO SOUFFLE. 
Peel and boil in milk 6 or 8 potatoes; make a puree 
uf them with the milk (not too soft); add 2 ozs each of 
butter and sugar, 6 yolks of eggs, and the whites beat. 

PUNCH SOUFFLE. 

Add two glasses of Jamaica rum, one of a decoction 
of tea, and the juice of half a lemon, to lemon souffle 
mixture. 

QUEEN'S SOUFFLE. 

Cut the crumb of two French rolls in slices; put 
I hem in a stewpan with eight macaroons, 1-^ ozs sugar, 
the zest of a lemon, and sufficient butter; pour over this 
1 pt boiling milk; cover and let it simmer at the corner 
of the stove until the bread has absorbed the milk, then 
work it with a wooden spoon ; when well worked, re- 
move it from the fire, and work in 6 yolks of eggs; rub 
it through a tammy with l-J gills boiled cream, add 8 
beat whites, and finish as usual. 

QUINCE SOUFFLE. 
Proceed as for Apple Souffle, with three quinces and 
four apples. 

RASPBERRY SOUFFLE. 

Proceed with 1 lb raspberry jam as for Strawberry 
Souffle, adding the juice of half a lemon only. 

RHUBARB SOUFFLE. 
Proceed as for Gooseberry Souffle, with about the 
same quantity of stiff rhubarb puree. 

RICE SOUFFLE. 
Put ^ ft) rice with 1 pt cream, ^ pt milk, a little lemon 



SWEET SOUFFLES. 95 



zest, 2 OZ8 butter and 2 ozs sugar; simmer this over a 
slow fire until tender; remove from the fire, and mix in 
8 yolks of eggs; stir in the beat whites, and bake as 
usual. 

SAGO SOUFFLE. 
Proceed as for Tapioca Souffle. 

SEMOLINA SOUFFLE. 

Put into a stewpan 10 ozs of semolina, 5 ozs sugar, 6 
ozs butter, 1 pt cream, and a little orange liower water; 
work the whole over the fire until it assumes a smooth 
paste; stir in 8 yolks and the whites, beat as usual. 

STRAW BEERY SOUFFLE. 
Proceed with 1 tb strawberry jam as for Apricot 
Souffle, adding the juice of a lemon. 

SURPRISE NOUKLES. 
Make a petit chou, sweetened with vanilla sugar; form 
it into balls with a little flour, introducing a dried cherry 
into each one; boil them in water for 5 or *', minutes; 
drain them on a sieve; place them in a souffle dish with 
I pt sherry and a little syrup; bake for about 40 minutes; 
serve with a dust of sugar. 

TAPIOCA SOUFFLE. 

Boil 1 qt cream and milk, and pour over it 10 ozs tapi- 
oca; simmer it very gently until soft and mellow; re- 
move it from the fire and sweeten and flavor to taste; 
add seven yolks of eggs, a pat of butter, the whites beat, 
and bake as usual. 

TURKISH SOUFFLE. 
Boil 2 doz figs for five minutes in a weak syrup; pass 



SWEET SOUFFLES. 



them through a sieve with the juice of a lemon, and add 
to lemon souffle mixture. 

VANILLA SOUFFLE. 

Make a lemon souffle with vanilla sugar, instead of 
common sugar, adding a glass of brandy. 

WALNUT SOUFFLE. 
Blanch and pound 2 dozen walnuts with two glasses of 
sherry; finish as for Almond Souffle. 






''^^Kr^-:^^?^^^^^^: 



CHAPTER YIII. 
DUMPLINGS. 

APPLE DUMPLINGS— BAKED. 

The same as boiled apple dnmplinga, using butter 
paste; bake about forty minutes; serve with a dust of 
sugar. A variety of fruit dumplings may he made from 
the above recipe. 

APPLE DUMPLINGS— BOILED. 

Use russet apples if procurable; pare and cut them in 
half; take out the cores, and fill the cavities with sugar, 
apricot jam, and a clove; join the halves, and enclose 
them in suet paste; boil them in cloths for about | hour; 
serve with melted butter sauce. 

BREAD DUMPLINGS— BAKED. 

Put ^ pt milk into a stewpan, with 2 ozs of each but- 
ter and sugar; while boiling stir in sufficient bread 
crumbs to form a stiff paste; stir until it detaches from 
the sides; remove it and stir in 2 whole eggs one at a 
time, and 3 ozs citron cut in small dice; bake on a but- 
tered baking sheet in the form of buns; serve with a 
dust of sugar, and melted butter sauce in a boat. 

COLLEGE DUMPLINGS. 
Mix some bread crumbs with about half the quantity 
of beef suet, the same of currants, and some chopped 



98 DUMPLINGS. 



preserved peel, flavored with mixed spice and sugar; 
add 4 eggs and 4 glasses of port wine; mould this into 
the size and shape of duck's eggs; if they are not moist 
enough to bind well, add a little more wine; they re- 
quire to lay a short time before moulding, as they bind 
much easier; they must also be baked on double sheets 
to prevent them burning; bake in a sharp oven, and 
serve with brandy plum pudding sauce. 

EGG DUI\1 FLINGS. 
Make a batter of 1 pt milk, two well beaten eggs, a 
phich of salt, one teaspoon baking powder, and flour 
enough to form it to the consistency of pound cake; 
drop it by the tablespoonful into fast-boiling water; four 
or five minutes will boil them; serve with syrup or 
lemon juice; they may be also served round, or with 
boiled beef, with butter and pepper on each. 

HARD DUMPLINGS. 
Make a paste of flour and water, a little butter and 
salt, and a teaspoon of baking powder; make it into 
balls about the size of billiards; boil about | of an hour 
in a pot with a piece of beef. 

NET OR CROCHET DUMPLINGS. 

Dumplings boiled in crochet or net cases, which will 
give them the ajDpearance at table of being carved. 

NORFOLK DUMPLINGS. 
Make a stiff batter of 1 lb flour, a little milk, 2 eggs, 
a teaspoon baking powder, and a pinch of salt; work 
this into balls the size of eggs; roll them in flour; drop 
them into boiling water; boil for 40 minutes; drain and 
serve with boiled meat. 



DUMPLINGS. 99 



OATMEAL DUMPLINGS. 

Mix some oatmeal with half the quantity of chopped 
suet; season with pepper and salt, and a little shred 
onion; bind together with egg and boil in cloths. 

POTATO DUIilPLINGS WITH HALF GLAZE. 

Add 3 yolks of eggs, 3 ozs melted glaze, a p:it of but- 
ter, and pepper and salt to taste, to some mashed pota- 
toes; let this cool; form it into balls; enclose in suet 
paste; boil in cloths, and serve on a vegetable dish with 
half glaze, in conjunction with boiled meats, 

POOE MAN'S DUMPLINGS. 

Make as for Poor Man's pudding, only a little stiffer; 
bake in the form of dumplings, and serve with a dust of 
sugar. 

QUICK FLASH DUMPLINGS. 

Mix a little chopped suet with an equal quantity of 
bread crumbs, a handful of currants, the zest of a lemon, 
two yolks, and two whole eggs; roll them into the form 
and size of eggs, and put them into fast boiling water; 
when done, they will rise to the top; serve with melted 
butter sauce, in a boat. 

RICE APPLE DUMPLINGS. 
Parboil some I'ice in milk and sugar until sufficiently 
stiff to enclose an apple prepared as for boiled apple 
dumplings; tie the rice dumplings up in cloths; boil for 
forty minutes, and serve with melted butter sauce. 

SUET DUMPLINGS (1). 
Proceed as for boiled suet pudding, omitting the eggs, 
and boiling in fast boiling water, in the form of dump- 
lings without cloths; serve with melted butter sauce. 



100 



DUMPLINGS. 



SUET DUMPLINGS (2). 
Mix 1 teaspoon baking powder with every pound of 
flour in a dry state; mix and boil immediately, without 
letting it stand. 

YEAST DUMPLINGS. 

Make a light dough of 2 lbs of flour, 1^ ozs German 
yeast, pinch of salt, and some milk; let it rise in a warm 
place; in about an hour the dough will be ready to use; 
mould them round as for buns, and boil fast for about 
15 minutes in a good deal of water; serve with melted 
butter sauoe. 



CHAPTER IX. 
COLD PUDDINGS. 

APRICOT COMPOTE PUDDING. 

Take al out ^ ib rice, more or less, according to the 
size of the mould; pat it on with milk in a stewpan, and 
cnok it rather stiff; flavor with lemon zest, cinnamon 
find sngar; butter a plain mould slightly; spread it with 
licei'.u inch thick; put a compote of apricots in the 
cavity; cover it over with rice; let the pudding set; 
turn it in its dish; mask with whipt cream, and pour 
apricot sauce round the base. 

A great variety of puddings may be made from this 
recipe by using the compotes or purees of different 
fruits, separately or mixed, and substituting appropriate 
sauces. 

CHICAGO APPLE PUDDING. 

Make a puree of about 2^ d< z apples; add | lb apricot 
jam; put this into an oiled earthenware mould; when 
firm, turn it out on its dish; mask with whipt cream, and 
serve with cold sauce. 

CHICAGO APRICOT PUDDING. 

Proceed as for Chicago Apple pudding, with a puree 
of 2 doz apricots, adding \ oz isinglass. 

CHICAGO BLACK CURRANT PUDDING 

I'roceed as for Chicngo A])plo ])udding, with a puree 
of black currants, adding ^ oz isinglass. 



102 COLD PUDDINGS. 



CHICAGO PEAR PUDDING. 

Proceed as for Chicago Apple pudding, using a puree 
of pears and adding J oz clarified isinglass. 

CORN STARCH PUDDING. 

Four spoonfuls of corn starch to 1 qt milk; dissolve 
the corn in some of the railk, putting the rest on in a 
stewpan; add sugar; when this nearly boils, pour in the 
mixed corn, and boil (stirring it briskly) for four min- 
iites; add some white noyeau or maraschino, to taste, 
and pour into an earthenware mould; when cold, turn 
on its dish, and pour round it any of the fruit sauces 
(cold). 

DIPLOMATIC PUDDING. 

Set a plain mould in ice; put a thin layer of clear 
jelly at the bottom, which decorate tastefully with dried 
cherries and pistachios; cover with another layer of 
jelly; decorate the sides in the same manner, dipping 
the cherries, etc., in jelly first to make them adhere; 
place a mould lining within, and fill the space between 
the two moulds with jelly, by degrees; when set, fill the 
lining with warm water, and quickly withdraw it; fill up 
with the following custard: Make a hot custard of one 
pint of cream and six yolks of eggs, sweetened and 
flavored to taste; add about 1 oz of clarified isinglass; 
serve with cold sauce, round the base; most of the fol- 
lowing Diplomatic puddings being served in this manner, 

DIPLOMATIC PUDDING A LA CHICAGO. 

Cut some very thin rint^s of lipe raw apples; immerse 
a plain mould in ice; stick the rings dipped in clear 
jelly all round the sides and bottom of the mould; put 



COLD PUDDINGS. 103 

a layer of pink jelly at the bottom; when set, introduce 
the monld lining, and by degrees fill up the space be- 
tween the moulds with pink jelly; when this is also set, 
remove the mould lining with hot water as usual; fill 
i;p with the custard, mixed with a puree of apples; serve 
with cold sauce round the base. 

DIPLOMATIC PUDDING— ALEXANDRA. 

Put a thin layer of clear jelly at the bottom of a plain 
mould; make some blanc mange, and set it in a small 
dish; cut it into the form of a neat cross; put this at 
the bottom of the mould, and cover with a layer of pink 
jelly; when set, introduce the lining, and fill up the space 
with pink jelly in the usual manner; when this is also 
set, remove the lining and fill up with the custard; serve 
with cold sauce round the base. 

DIPLOMATIC PUDDING— ALMOND. 

Proceed with | Jb finely chopped blanched almonds as 
for Pistachio Diplomatic pudding, flavoring the custard 
to taste. 

DIPLOMATIC PUDDING— ANGELICA. 

Decorate the mould with angelica, cut fancifully, and 
proceed as for plain Diplomatic pudding; cold sauce. 

DIPLOMATIC PUDDING— ARROWROOT. 

Set a plain mould in ice; put a thin layer of clear 
jelly at the bottom; decorate this fancifully with a royal 
Bweet garnish custard; ornament the sides in the same 
manner, dipping the custard in jelly; put a layer of 
jelly at the bottom; fix in the lining; fill round with 
jelly, and when set, remove the lining as usual; fill with 



104 COLD PUDDINGS. 



some firm made arrowroot, flavored with cherry syrup, 
and I oz isinglass added; serve as usual. 

The above may be varied by using white royal custard 
and pink jelly. 

DIPLOMA.TIC PUDDING— CARAMEL. 
Proceed as usual with plain jelly; fill up with the 
custard, flavored with a tablespoouful of well juade burnt 
sugar, and a glass of French brandy; when turned out, 
place over it a cover of caramel sugar, spun on an oiled 
mould one size larger than that used for the pudding; 
cold sauce. 

DIPLOMATIC PUDDING— CHERRY. 
Proceed as usual with clear cherry jelly, in an un- 
decorated mould; fill up with the custard, flavored with 
essence of cherry kernels; cold sauce. 

DIPLOMATIC PUDDING— CHOCOLATE. 

Proceed as usual with plain jelly (but the mould 
decorated), working in four fillets of scraped chocolate 
in making the custard. 

DIPLOMATIC PUDDING— DANTZIC. 

Proceed as usual in an uudeccrated mould, with 
Dantzic jelly, putting it round the space in layers to 
prevent the gold sinking to the bottom ; fill up with the 
custard, flavored with Dantzic liqueur; cold sauce. 

DIPLOMATIC PUDDING— FROZEN. 

Proceed as usual with a rather weaker jell}', flavored 
with rum, the mould to be set in salt and ice; extract 
the lining; reset the mould in the pickle; when ready to 
serve, fill up the mould with vanilla cream ice, and very 
carefully turn the Diplomatic frozen pudding out, dip- 



COLD PUDDINGS. 105 



ping the mould as usual into warm water; serve on a 
napkin or frozen stand. 

DIPLOMATIC PUDDING— LEMON. 

Proceed as usual with lemon jelly, filling the centre 
with the custard, flavored with the zest of two lemons; 
cold sauce. 

DIPLOMATIC PUDDING— MARBLE. 

Mask a plain mould with whipt sweet jelly; fill up 
with the custard. 

DIPLOMATIC PUDDING— ORANGE. 

Proceed as for Lemon Diplomatic Pudding, using 
orange jelly and zest; cold sauce. 

DIPLOMATIC PUDDING— PINK NOYEAU. 

Proceed as usual with pink noyeau jelly, flavoring the 
custard with white noyeau; cold sauce. 

DIPLOMATIC PUDDING— PISTACHIO. 

Chop very fine ^ tb blanched pistachios; mix with ^ pt 
clear jellj^; mask a plain mould with all this, and fill up 
with the custard, mixed with \ ft) finely chopped al- 
monds, and flavored with a glass of noyeau; cold sauce. 

DIPLOMATIC PUDDING— SILVER. 
Break six leaves of silver into a maraschino jelly; pro- 
ceed as for Dantzic Diplomatic pudding, using the same 
precaution regai'ding the silver; fill up with the custard 
flavored to taste; cold sauce. 

DIPLOMATIC PUDDING— THOUSAND-LEAF. 
Fill a plain mould with alternate and very thin layers 
of the Diplomatic custard and pink jelly; cold sauce. 



106 COLD PUDDINGS. 



DIPLOMATIC PUDDING— VANILLA. 

Proceed as usual with jelly flavored with vauilla liqueur; 
fill up with the custard, flavored with 2 ozs of vanilla 
sugar; cold sauce. 

DIPLOMATIC PUDDING— VICTORIA. 
Proceed as usual with some clear maraschino jelly in 
which six leaves of gold have been broken, and 1 oz pis- 
tachios, blanched and filleted, have been added; use this 
jelly in layers to prevent the gold leaf and pistachios 
from sinking to the bottom; fill with the custard, with ^^ 
lb of apricot jam pureed, added to it; serve with cold 
sauce; the mould mnst not be decorated. 

DOROTHY'S CURD PUDDING. 
Boil with lemon peel and cinnamon, 1 qt of milk or 
cream; add to it 8 eggs; sweeten and flavor with rum; 
stir and let it boil until it curdles, and until the whey is 
completely separated; then drain it on a seive, and put 
into a mould with holes in it, to let the whey drain wholly 
off; when firm, turn it out, and serve with cold sauce. 

GARIBALDI PUDDING. 

Half fill a souffle lining with frangipan and apple 
souffle mixture, flavored with some liqueur; fill up with a 
compote of some fruit; mask the top half an inch thick 
with whipt cream ; put in the souffle case and serve with 
chopped pistachios on the top. 

A great variety can be thus made. 

MELE PUDDING. 

Beat up with a whisk six yolks of eggs over hot water, 
as for Savoy cake, with 6 ozs of sugar, | oz clarified isin- 
glass, a glass of sherry, half a glass of maraschino, the 



COLD PUDDINGS. 107 



juice of three lemons, and | oz pistachio kernels; when 
up, remove the beat until cold; then stir in lightly the 
whites of six eggs, beat; put sufficient of the mixture into 
a plain mould; set and serve with cold sauce round the 
base. 

MINUTE PUDDING. 

Place on the bottom of a dish ^ doz finger Savoy bis- 
cuit and 1 doz macaroons; soak them with sheri'y; cover 
with a frangipan and apple souffle mixture, filling up the 
dish with whipt cream; strew the top with bruised rata- 
fias and serve. 

QUEEN'S PUDDING. 

Add 1 ft) bread crumbs to 1 qt milk, J tb sugar, the 
zest of a lemon, 2 ozs butter and four eggs; bake in a 
buttered pie dish; when done, spread the top of the pud- 
ding with apricot jam, and mask with meringue; set in 
the hot closet, and serve cold with whipt cream in a boat. 

SURPRISE SOUFFLE. 

Half fill a prepared souffle lining with a compote of 
fruits; fill the lining up with a frangipan and apple 
souffle mixture, flavored to taste; fill up with about three 
inches of sweet whipt jelly; when set, strew the top with 
bruised ratifias; remove the paper, put into the silver 
souffle case and serve. 

A great variety may be made from this recipe. 

TIPSY PUDDING A LA GENOISE. 

Make a Genoise in a plain mould and proceed as for 
Tipsy Pudding a la Savoy, soaking the exterior with 
brandy and uoyeau syrup. 



108 COLD PUDDINaS. 



TIPSY PUDDING A LA SAVARIN. 

Make a Savariii cake in a plain mould and proceed as 
for Tipsy Pudding a la Savoy, soaking the exterior with 
syrup; flavor with rum and lemon. 

TIPSY PUDDING A LA SAVOY. 
Bake a Savoy cake in a plain mould; when cold, cut 
out the centre, leaving an inch of cake all round; fill the 
centre with a Diplomatic custard flavored with chocolate, 
but not until half set; when firm, turn it on a dish and 
soak the outside with sherry. 

VENICE PUDDING. 
Cut up ^ ft) greengage, apricot, and dried cherries; 
soak tbese in wine and brandy; make a custard as for 
Diplomatic pudding; place a plain mould in ice; put a 
layer of jelly at the bottom, ornamenting with dried cher- 
ries and pistachios; fill up with alternate layers of the 
fruits and custard with some Savoy biscuit soaked in 
brandy between; when set, turn out on its dish and serve 
with whipt cream garnish. 



CHAPTEK X. 
FRIED PUDDINGS. 

CABINET CUTLETS. 
Cut a cold cabinet pudding (see steamed puddings) 
up in slices; cut these into the form of cutlets with a tin 
cutter of that shape; egg and bread-crumb them; fry in 
lard, drain on paper and stick a piece of almond into the 
narrow end to form the bone; dish en miroton on a silver 
dish and pour round them melted red currant jelly. 

CASSEKOLES OF RICE A LA SURPRISE. 

Put on in a stewpan 1 lb rice; boil with milk and a 
little sugar until stiflf; tighten it with a wooden spoon, 
and set at the corner of the stove for a few minutes; 
turn this out on a buttered dish, and flatten it to the 
thichness of 2 inches; when cold stamp out carefully 
with a patty cutter; trim top and bottom; egg and 
bread crumb them ; cut a circle on the top with a smaller 
cutter; fry in lard; cut the top piece off, scoop out the 
interior and fill as follows; half fill the casseroles with 
a hot compote of any fruit desired, and fill them up with 
a hot custard of -J pt cream, thickened with arrowroot; 
add three yolks of eggs and a glass of rum ; sweeten to 
taste; cover the casseroles, and serve them on a napkin. 

CHICAGO PUDDINGS. 

Take \ tb stale Savoy cake crumbs; \ ft currants; \ ft 
fine chopped suet, a tablespoon of sugar, and some mixed 



110 FRIED PUDDINGS. 



Bpice; make the puddings into balls with the yolk of 
four eggs; fry of a light color in butter; serve with a dust 
of sugar, and melted butter sauce. 

CROQUETTES OF NOUILLES. 
Make some nouilles (see Nouilles paste) ; mix them 
with a custard (as for Casseroles of Rice), extra stiffened; 
when cool, form them into balls; egg and bread-crumb 
them twice; fry in lard; drain and serve on a napkin. 

CUSTARD PUDDING. 
Egg and bread-crumb an ordinary custard pudding (see 
steamed puddings); fry it in lard; when done drain on 
paper, and dish on a napkin, with a large spoonful of 
orange marmalade on top; serve with Seville Orange 
Arrowroot sauce in a boat. A small pudding should be 
used, as it is quicker warmed through. 

DARIOLE CUSTARD PUDDINGS. 
Take eight cold dariole puddings (see steamed pud- 
dings); cut each one across into three with a sharp 
knife, and join them together with apricot jam; very 
carefully egg, bread-crumb, and fry them in lard; drain 
on paper, dish on a napkin, and serve with a teaspoon of 
orange marmalade on top of each; Seville orange arrow- 
root sauce in a boat 

GAUFFRES. 
Beat ^ ft) butter to a cream in a basin, with a wooden 
spoon; mix with this six yolks of eggs (one by one), 
three spoonsful of flour, the zest of a lemon, ^ pt double 
cream (whipt), and six whites of eggs (beat) ; make the 
gauffre irons hot on both sides, pour in a little clarified 
butter for the first baking; bake thegauffres in the irons 



FRIED PUDDINGS. Ill 

over the charcoal fire, qaickl}'; serviog with a dust of 
sugar and cinnamon powder. 

INDIAN MEAL DOUGHNUT PUDDINGS. 

Pour ^ pint boiling milk over ^ ft Indian meal; when 
cool, add ^ ft) flour, ^ ft butter, 2 czs sugar, | oz German 
yeast, 2 eggs, and a little ground cinnamon; if not stifif 
enough, add a little more flour; let it rise; roll out about 
^ inch thick; stamp with a round cutter, and fry in lard. 

LEMON BEIGNETS. 

Make a petit chou, flavored with lemon zest and sweet- 
ened to taste; form this into small balls, and fry in hot 
lard; drain, dish on a napkin, and serve with a dust of 
sugar. 

By altering the flavors, a great variety may be made 
from this recipe. 

MUSH PUDDING. 

Cut a cold Indian meal boiled pudding, out of the 
basin, in slices an inch thick; fry in lard and serve with 
with sugar, or with butter, pepper, salt, and meat. 

PLUM PUDDING. 

Cut slices of cold boiled plum pudding, stamp out 
with a round cutter; fry in fresh butter; drain on paper; 
dust with sugar; bar across with a red hot skewer, and 
serve on a napkin. 

PLUM PUDDING BEIGNETS. 
Cut some cold boiled plum pudding into slices ^ inch 
thick; stamp this out with a round cutter; mask the 
rounds with pastry ci'eam made very thick with arrow- 
root; bread-crumb, and then egg and bread-crumb them; 



112 FRIED PUDDINOS. 



fry in hot lard; drain on paper; dish en miroton on a 
napkin; serve with a dust of sugar, with cold sauce, in 
a boat. 

KICE CROQUETTES. 

Put in a stewpan \ ft) rice; cover with cream and a 
little sugar; simmer this at the corner of stove with the 
cover on; stir it occasionally, and when to the consis- 
tency of a not too stiff paste, flavor with noyeau; let it 
cool; form it into balls; egg and bread-crumb them; fry 
in lard; drain and serve hot on a napkin. 

A great many varieties in both form and flavors may 
be made from this recipe. 

SANDWICH CUSTARD BEIGNETS. 

Cut a cold steamed custard pudding into rounds ^ inch 
thick, with a round cutter 2 inches in diameter; split 
with a sharp knife, spread with apricot jam, and rejoin 
them, forming a sandwich; egg, bread-crumb, and fry 
them in lard; drain on paper, and serve on a napkin; 
use raspberry jam sauce. 

YEAST GAUFFRES. 

Melt ^ lb butter; add this to | pt cream, 6 ozs flour, a 
few currants, G eggs, and | oz German yeast; let this rise 
about two hours before it is wanted; proceed as for 
Gauffres. 



CHAPTER XI. 
FRITTERS. 

APPLE FRITTERS. 

Cut six or eight apples into not too thick slices, cut- 
ting the core cut of each slice with a round cutter, and 
with a larger cutter form it into a ring; lay them in a disli 
with a little powdered sugar, lemon juice and brandy; 
let them stand in this for an hour; dip them in pre- 
pared batter, fry in hot lard, drain on paper, and serve 
with a dust of sugar. 

To prepare the halter for frying fritters, put \ ib of 
flour in a basin, making a well in the middle; add one 
whole egg and a pinch of suit; form a rather thick bat- 
ter with old or pale ale, stirred with a wooden spoon, 
and adding by degrees about ^ pt salad oil. 

APPLE FRITTERS— PLAIN. 

Stir minced apples rolled in sugar, with a little finely 
chopped suet, into a stiff batter; drop this from a large 
spoon into hot lard, and fry. 

APPLE FRITTERS— A LA CHICAGO. 

Beat up the yolks of two eggs with a little warm milk; 
add -J ib of flour, ^ oz dissolved butter, a pinch of .^alt, 
and sufficient warm milk to make the batter of euch 
consistency that it will drop from the spoon; stii it we 1, 
make it quite hmcoth, and, lastly, beat into the mixluiu 



114 FRITTERS. 



the whites of two eggs previously well whisked. Peel 
some apples, cut them into thick slices, stamping out the 
core from the middle of each slice; dip tbem in the 
batter, covering them well over, and fry on both sides in 
boiling lard, or clarified dripping; lay the fritters on 
sheets of blotting paper before the fire; serve very hot, 
with pounded sugar strewed over. It is a great im- 
provement if the slices of apple be steeped in a marinade 
of wine or brandy, lemon peel or cinnamon, for two or 
three hours before frying. 

APRICOT FRITTERS. 
Proceed with apricots, as for Peach fritters. 

BANANA FRITTERS. 

Strip the bananas of their skins, and slice them in half 
lengthwise; proceed as for Apple fritters. 

CHERRY FRITTERS. 
Proceed with unstoned cherries, as for Damson fritters. 

CINTRA FRITTERS. 

These are prepared from the remains of brioche, baba, 
or any other cake; which ever is used for the purpose 
should be first cut in slices J inch thick, and stamped 
out with a round tin about 1 inch in diameter, placed in 
a dish, and soaked with the following mixture, viz.: 1 
gill cream, 1 oz sugar, and a tablespoon orange flower 
water. Previously to frying these fritters, let them be 
dredged over with flour; fry of a light color; dish them 
up without a napkin, and pour some diluted preserve of 
any kind most convenient round the base. 



FRITTEKS, 115 



CORN FRITTERS. 

A teacup of milk, 3 eggs, 1 pt green corn (grated), a 
little sugar, and as much flour as will form a batter ; 
beat the eggs, yolks and whites separately; to the yolks 
add the corn, sugar, milk, and flour enough to form the 
batter; beat the whole well; stir in the whites, and drop 
the batter, a spoonful at a time, into hot lard. 

crea:\i fritters. 

Cut stifi" cold, corn starch pudding into slices; dip the 
slices in cracker dust and egg, and fry, laying them on 
brown paper to free them from grease; serve with pow- 
dered sugar. 

CURRA.NT FRITTERS. 

Proceed with currants, as for Plain Apple fritters. 

CUSTARD FRITTERS. 
Boil 1 pt milk with cinnamon and lemon, adding 4 
ozs sugar, 1 oz flour, a pinch of salt, and ^ doz eggs, 
beat all together, and steam this custard in a plain 
mould previously spread inside with batter; when done 
tirm and quite cold, let it be carefully cut into square 
pieces, dipped in frying batter in which there has been 
mixed a little cream, and dropped separately in hot fry- 
ing fat; when they have obtained a light color all over, 
drain and dish them up with some kind of preserve 
round the base. 

DAMSON FRITTERS. 

Take some large fine damsons; roll them in sugar and 
a little brandy; dip them in fritter batter, and jjick 
them out one at a time; fry them in lard; drain and 



116 FRITTERS. 



dish on a napkin in pyramid form; serve with a dust of 
sugar. 

DATE FRITTEKS. 

Stew 2 doz dates in weak syrup flavored with brandy; 
lay them in a dish with powdered sugar and a little 
lemon juice; fiuish as for Damson fritters. 

GERMAN FRITTERS. 
Roll out about 12 ozs of brioche paste about | inch 
thick; moisten slightly with a paste brush dipped in 
water; place small balls of preserve upon this, at dis- 
tance of two inches from each other; cover over with 
some of the same paste rolled out thin, similarly to the 
first piece; with the edge of the thumb press down all 
round each lump of preserve; stamp these out with a 
round tin cutter, and place them in rows on sheets of 
buttered paper upon a baking sheet; fry them in hot 
frying fat of a light color; when done, dish them on a 
napkin; dredge them over with cinnamon powdered 
with sugar, and serve. 

GREENGAGE FRITTERS. 
Halve and stone 1 doz greengages; finish as for 
Damson fritters. 

MEDLAR FRITTERS. 
Peel and cut up ^ doz medlars into the shape of half 
moons; fry and finish as for Apple fritters. 

MELON FRITTERS. 
Peel and cut a ripe melon; slice, cut and finish as for 
Apple fritters. 



I 



FRITTERS. 117 

NECTARINE FEITTERS. 
Proceed with nectarines, as for Peach fritters. 

ORANGE FRITTERS. 
Cut I doz oranges as for compote; toss them up in a 
basin with some sugar and brandy, and finish as for 
Apple fritters. 

PEACH FRITTERS. 
Peel and quarter ^ doz peaches, and finish as for 
Apple fritters. 

PEAR FRITTERS. 
Proceed as for Apple fritters, coring with the small 
cutter, and stamping out with a pear-shaped cutter. 

PINE APPLE FRITTERS. 
Peel, slice and core a small ripe pine; cut each slice 
into four; stew them for five minutes or more in a 
weak syrup flavored with brandy; dip the pieces in frit- 
ter batter, and finish as for apple fritters. 

POTATO FRITTERS, (1). 

Boil 2 large potatoes, scraping them fine; beat 4 yolks 
and 3 whites of eggs, adding to the above one large 
spoonful of cream, one of sweet wine, a little lemon juice 
and nutmeg. Beat this batter until extremely light; 
fry in hot lard; serve with wine or other appropriate 
sauce. 

POTATO FRITTERS, (2). 

Slice potatoes thin; dip them in batter and fry; serve 
with white sugar, sifted over them. Lemon peel and a 
spoonful of orange-flower water should be added to the 
batter. 



118 FRITTERS. 



PORTUGUESE FRITTERS. 
Put 6 ozs. of rice into 1 pt milk, 4 ozs. sugar, 2 ozs. 
butter, and a little cinnamon and lemon peel; boil very 
gently over a slow fire about | hour, by which time the 
rice will have entirely absorbed all moisture. Mix in 
3 yolks of eggs, and then make up this preparation of 
rice into balls the size of large walnuts, introducing into 
the center of each a teaspoonful of orange marmalade ; 
egg and crumb them over carefully, placing them in a 
wire frying basket, and immerse them in hot frying fat. 
As soon as they have obtained a light color, drain, and 
dish them up on a napkin; sugar them over and serve. 

PUDDING FRITTERS. 

These are prepared with the remains of any kind of 
custard puddings — such as cabinet, ground rice, arrow- 
root, etc., or even plum pudding. The pudding intended 
to be used for the purpose should be cut in neat squares, 
egged over and bread-crumbed, and being fried of a 
light color, may be dished either with or without pre- 
serve. 

For further instructions see Chapter X on Fried 
Puddings. 

RASPBERRY FRITTERS. 

Make a batter of a pint of milk, 1 egg, a little salt, 
and enough flour to make a mixture that will drop from 
a spoon. Add a cup of fine raspberries, with a table- 
spoonful of granulated sugar mixed with them. Fry in 
hot lard and dust with powdered sugar. 

RHUBARB FRITTERS. 
Skin and cut some fine rhubarb into inch lengths; 
stew them in syrup flavored with brandy, till tender; 



FRITTEBS. 119 



drain them, put them into fritter batter, and pick them 
out quickly; fry in hot lard and serve with a dust of 
sugar. 

RICE FRITTERS. 

Boil 1 cup of rice in 1 pt milk until soft and all the 
milk is absorbed; remove and add the yolks of 3 eggs, 
3 ozs. butter and 1 oz. sugar; when cold add the whites 
of the eggs, whipped to a dry froth ; drop in spoonfuls 
in plenty of lard, made hot for the purpose; fry a deep 
buff color; serve with cream, wine and lemon sauce. 

SPANISH FRITTERS. 
Cut the crumb of a French roll into lengths as thick 
as the finger, in any shape to please the fancy. Soak in 
some cream or milk, nutmeg, sugar, pounded cinnamon 
and egg. When well soaked, fry of a nice brown; and 
serve with butter, wine and sugar-sauce. 



CHAPTER XII. 
PANCAKES. 

BUCKWHEAT PANCAKES. 

Mix a large cupful of lukewarm milk with about J ft) 
buckwheat flour; add 3 eggs, and sufficient milk to form 
it into a smooth batter; let it stand in a warm place for 
an hour; add a teaspoonful of baking powder; fry as 
usual; serve rolled up, with sugar and lemon juice. 

ENGLISH PANCAKES. 

Put into a basin four spoonsful of flour, one of sugar, 
and the zest of a lemon; mix smoothly with two eggs; 
add milk and cream to the consistency of double cream; 
fry the pancakes thin and on both sides, giving them the 
well known toss to accomplish this feat; dust them with 
sugar; sprinkle lemon juice over them, and roll them 
up; cut off the ends, and serve very hot on a napkin. 

FEENCH PANCAKES. 
Mix in a basin 3 ozs flour, 3 ozs sugar, J ft) bruised 
macaroons, 1 teaspoon orange-flower water, 1 pt cream, 
a little milk, and the yolks of ^ doz eggs; to fry, put a 
little clarified butter into the omelet pan, make it hot, 
fry a very little of the batter at a time, on one side only; 
drain on paper; spread with apricot jam; form a pile 
on a silver dish; salamander the top, and serve very hot. 



I 



PANCAKES. 121 

GERADEAU PANCAKES, 
Often called French Pancakes; 4 eggs; 4 ozs butter; 
4 ozs sifted sugar; 4 ozs flour; ^ grated nutmeg; 1 good 
pint of milk. Beat the eggs well and butter to cream, 
add the sugar, flour, and nutmeg, then the milk, and 
beat well. Put on buttered plates or tins, and bake in 
quick oven. Serve with lemon juice and sifted sugar, 
or preserved fruit. 

GERMAN PANCAKES. 
Proceed as for Swiss Pancakes, spreading pastry 
cream between each, and serve with currant jelly sauce 

INDIAN MEAL PANCAKES. 
Beat four eggs; add a little milk, and form into a 
paste with sufficient Indian meal; add nearly 1 pt milk, 
and about a teaspoon of baking powder; work smooth; 
fry as for English pancakes, rolling them up with but- 
ter, sugar, nutmeg, and lemon juice. 

IRISH PANCAKES. 
Beat 8 yolks and 4 whites of eggs; strain into 1 pt. 
cream, adding sugar and nutmeg to taste; set 3 ozs but- 
ter on the fire; stir it, and as it warms pour it to the 
cream, which should be warm when the eggs are put to 
it; mix smooth with about ^ pt flour; fry very thin; 
serve one on the other.'-' 

JENNY LiND PANCAKES. 

5 eggs; 6 ozs flour; enough milk to make a thin bat- 
ter; ^ grated nutmeg; salt to season. Beat the eggs 
well and add the flour, salt and a little of the milk; beat 
all to a smooth batter; then add slowly the rest of the 
milk, beating all the time to a thin batter or thick 



122 PANCAKES. 

cream. Ttet the fryiug pan be hot; oil it, and pour in 
thin; when brown lift over; when done, sprinkle with 
nutmeg. Spread on the jelly, roll up, and sprinkle with 
sugar. They should be sent to the table as soon as pos- 
sible, and are never good unless eaten at once; but if 
this is not possible, put them in the oven and let glaze. 
To have the cakes very light it is necessary to beat the 
whites and yolks separately, as for fritter batter. 

NEW ENGLAND PANCAKES. 

Mix 1 pt cream, five spoonsfuls flour, 7 yolks and 4 
whites of eggs, and a pinch of salt; fry in fresh butter, 
and strew between each, sugar and cinnamon. 

ORANGE PANCAKES. 

Peel a few nice oranges, cutting them in slices cross- 
ways; cover the first pancake with them; sugar over 
according to taste; lay another over this, which sprinkle 
with sugar; bake and serve. 

PANCAKES— PLAIN, (1). 
Take six eggs, break them separately into a cup to 
ascertain that they are fresh; put them into a basin, 
whisk them well, then add half a pound of flour, and 
half a teaspoonful of salt; beat to perfectly smooth 
batter, add sufficient milk to make it the consistency of 
thick cream. Place a small frying-pan on the fire, and 
when quite hot put in a piece of butter or lard; when it 
is nearly boiling, pour in about half a teacupful of 
batter, or rather more, according to the size of the pm; 
fry until it is of a delicate brown, then turn it carefully 
with a slice, and when brown on the other side, sprinkle 
some pounded sugar over it; take it out with the slice, 
and place it on a dish before the fire. Proceed in like 



PANCAKES. 123 

mauner until sufl&cient are cooked for a dish; serve 
immediately. Never place one plain pancake upon 
another. Lemon-juice and sugar or jam are served 
with pancakes. 

PANCAKES— PLAIN, (2). 

Mix in a basin with a spoon 4 oz flour, 4 eggs, a little 
salt, a few ratafias, some grated lemon peel, and 1 pt 
milk or cream; fry spoonfuls of this batter with a little 
butter in small frying pans over a clear fire; the pan- 
cakes must be fried on both sides, and when done, folded 
up with sugar inside, and dished upon a pancake drainer 
on its dish, to allow all grease to run off from them. 

French pancakes may be made by introducing some 
preserves in the ordinary pancakes. 

PANCAKES A LA CELESTINE. 

Proceed as for Scotch Pancakes; when all are made, 
spread one with pastry cream, cover with a pancake; 
spread the latter with red currant jelly, cover again; 
spread the third with apple sauce; cover and spread the 
fourth with cranberry sauce or jelly; cover and sift over 
sugar; repeat with the rest. Serve at table like cake. 

A great variety may be made by simply varying this 
recipe. 

PANCAKES WITH APRICOT JAM. 

Take six ounces of flour, four ounces of butter, four 
eggs, half an ounce of sugar, five gills of cream, a small 
pinch of salt; cut a piece of crumb of bread to a dome 
shape, fry it in clarified butter, fix it in the center of a 
dish with a little sticking paste, and put the dish in the 
oven; mix in^a basin the flour, sugar, salt, and eggs; 
melt the butter in the cream and add it, by degrees, to 



124 PANCAKES. 



the flour and eggs in the basin, so as to make a smooth 
batter; should this be too thick, add a little creaii, ; 
warm a pancake pan, brush it over with clarified butter; 
pour in two tablespoonfuls of the batter and spread it 
so as to cover the bottom of the pan entirely; fry the 
pancake until it is colored on one side, and turn it over 
on to the dome shaped block of bread, the uncolored 
side outwards. Spread a layer of warm apricot jam, 
previously rubbed through a hair sieve, on the top of 
the pancake and keep the batter hot; fry the remainder 
of the batter in the same way, coloring only one side of 
the pancake, putting them one above the other on the 
block of bread, and spreading each one over with the 
jam; when all the pancakes are fried, stand one above 
the other, dredge some fine sugar over the top, glaze 
with a red hot salamander, and serve at once. The pan- 
cakes may be spread with any kind of jam or jelly, 
warmed, instead of the apricot jam. amm 

EICE PANCAKES. 
Boil \ lb rice flour in 1 qt thin cream, stirring it all 
the while until thick; when cold, stir in \ lb sugar, four 
spoonfuls of flour, and ^ doz beat eggs; if not stifi 
enough add more flour; fry and serve as for English 
pancakes, with ground rice sauce, in a boat. 

SCOTCH PANCAKES. 
1 ptmilk; 2 ozs butter; 4 eggs; 1 teaspoon baking 
powder, a pinch of salt, and about \ tb flour. Sift flour, 
salt and powder together; add the milk, eggs and but- 
ter (melted); mix into a thin batter; have a small round 
fi-yiug-pan, with a little butter melted in it; pour in | 
cupful of batter; turn the pan round to cover it with 



PANCAKES. 125 



the batter; place it on a sharp fire to brown; then hold 
it up in front of the fire, and the pancake will rise right 
up; spread each with marmalade or jelly; roll it up, 
and serve with sliced lemon and sugar. 

SWISS PANCAKES. 

2 ozs butter; 2 ozs sugar; 6 ozs flour; 1 large apple, 
peeled, cored and minced fine; ^ pt milk; i pt cream; 4 
eggs; 1 teaspoon baking powder; nutmeg and cinnamon 
to flavor. 

Sift the flour with the powder; add to it the butter 
(melted), the sugar and eggs, beaten together and di- 
luted with the cream and milk; add the flavorings; fry 
on one side only. Serve them piled one on the other, 
with sugar strewed between each cake. 

VANILLA PANCAKES. 

Make a pancake batter of 6 yolks of eggs, ^ pt cream, 
3 spoonfuls of flour, and a glass of brandy; beat the 
whites, and whip into the mixture: fry as for English 
pancakes; dust vanilla sugar over each one, and serve 
iu a pile ou a silver dish. 



xisilw jaoiai:!: 



CHAPTEE XIII. 
Miscellaneous Articles of Sweet Pastry. 

Almond Pastry — Apple Charlotte — Apple Trifle — Ballous D'or 
— Chartreuse of Oranges — Iceiug Pastry — Snowballs — ■ 
Tropical Snow. 

ALMOND PASTRY. 
Pound three ounces of almonds, one-quarter pound 
of batter, and two ounces of loaf sugar, with a little rose- 
water till it becomes a thick paste; spread it on a but- 
tered tin, bake in a slow oven. When cold divide into 
eight pieces, put a spoonful of preserve on each piece, 
and cover with whipped cream. 

APPLE CHARLOTTE. 

Cut from a loaf of breacl a number of slices of uni- 
form thickness (one- quarter to thi'ee-eighths of an 
inch); butter a plain mould and all the slices of bread; 
shape one of them round to fit the botton of the mould, 
and another one for the top; cut the rest in pieces an 
inch wide, and the height of the mould in length; lay 
one of the round pieces at the bottom of the mould, 
and line the sides with the small pieces, carefully smear- 
ing the edges with the white of egg, so as to make them 
hold together well. Stew a quantity of apples with 
plenty of brown sugar, a little water, the juice and the 
thin rind of a lemon, and a piece of cinnamon; when 
thoroughly done, pass them through a hair sieve; fill the 



MISCELLANEOUS ARTICLES OF SWEET PASTRY. 1-7 

mould with this puree, put on the round slice of bread 
for the cover, and set in a quick oven for about an hour 
aud a half. 

APPLE TRIFLE. 

•J pt good apple sauce, well sweetened and flavored 
with grated lemon peel, 4 eggs, ^ pt milk, 2 ozs sugar; 
heat the milk, and pour over the beaten yolks and 
sugar; put back in a farina-kettle, and stir until it be- 
gins to thicken, say about eight minutes; set by in n 
shallow vessel to cool; beat the whites vei-y stiff, tLeu 
whip gradually into the apple. When all is in, and well 
beaten, pile up in a glass dish, and pour the cold cus- 
tard about the base. 

BALLONS D'OR. 
Take 1 oz. of sweet almonds, blanched and pound< d 
smooth, 3 tablespoonfuls peach marmalade, or any otlur 
kind of jam, 2 ozs. fine bread-crumbs and 2 well beaten 
eggs. Beat well together, then add 1 oz of buttei', 
melted to the consistency of cream. Half fill sormj 
buttered cups with the mixture and bake twenty minutes 
in a slow oven. 

CHARTEEUSE OF ORANGES. 
Make a very clear orange jelly with a pint and a half 
of water, six oranges, sugar to taste, a wineglassful of 
sherry, and an ounce and a half of isinglass. Divide 
two or three oranges into qnnrters, and with a sharp 
knife carefully remove from each cpiarter every particle 
of skin of any sort. Have two plain moulds, one about 
an inch and a quarter more in diameter than the other. 
Pour a very little jelly at the bottom of the larger 



128 MISCJBLLiANBOUS. ARTICLES OF. BW-IJET' -PA^*AfY. 

mould, and place it iu a layer of orange quarters pre- 
pared as above (if too thick, they should be split in two 
lengthways); cover them with more jelly, but only^iat 
enough to get a smooth surface. Lay this on ice to set. 
When it is quite firm, put the small mould inside the 
large one, taking care to place it exactly in the middle, 
so that the vacant space between the two moulds is of 
the same width. Iu this vacant space dispose prepared 
orange quarters, filling up the interstices with jelly until 
the whole of the space is filled up. Place the mould 
upon ice, and proceed to whip a pint of cream with ball 
an ounce of isinglass and some sweetened orange jnice, 
which must be added to it a very little at a time, else 
the cream will not rise into a froth. When th« cream'is 
ready and the jelly set, remove the inner mould by pour- 
ing warm water into it, and fill up the inner space of 
the chartreuse with the cream. Set it on fee fpl" an 
hour, turn out, and serve. - •. ^ r.-,i 

ICEING PASTRY. -^ -^S^ 

When nearly baked enough, take the pastry out of^Ke 
oven, and sift over it fine powdered sugar. iReplace'in 
the oveo, and hold over it, till the sugar is melted, a hot 
iron salamander. The above method is preferred for pastry 
to be eaten hot. For cold, beat up the whites of two 
eggs well; wash over the top of the pies with the brush, 
and sift over this a good coating of sugar; cause it to 
adhere to the crust; trundle over it a clean brush 
dipped in water till the sugar is moistened. Bake again 
for about 10 minutes. 

SNOWBALLS. ^^i «« 

4 lb raw rice, 1 qt fresh milk, 5 tablespoonfuls of sr.- 



MISCELLANEOUS ARTICLES OF SWEET PASTRY. 12'J 

gar, a little nutmeg. Wash the rice in several waters 
and boil in the milk (always in a farina-kettle), adding a 
little salt and 5 tablespoonfuls of sugar, with a pinch of 
nutmeg. Stew gently until the rice is soft and has 
soaked up the milk. Fill small cups with the rice, 
pressing it down firnily, and let it get cold. At dinner- 
time, turn it out upon a large flat dish, or pile within a 
glass bowl. Eat with sweetened cream. 

TROPICAL SNOW. 
10 sweet oranges, 1 cocoanut, pared and grated, 2 
glasses sherry, \ ft powdered sugar, 6 bananas. Peel 
and cut the oranges small, taking out the seeds. Pat a 
layer in a glass bowl and wet with wine, then strew with 
sugar. Next, put a layer of grated cocoanut; slice the 
bananas thin, and cover the cocoanut with them. When 
the dish h^s been filled in this order, heap with cocoa- 
nut. Eat soon, or the oranges will toughen. 



CHAPTEK XIV. 
MISCELLANEOUS PUDDINGS. 

Biikewell Pudding— Bird's Nest Pudding— Bubble Pudding- 
Cabinet Pudding- Chicago Puddings— Cold Corn Starch 
Pudding— Corn Starch Pudding -Cracker Pudding— In- 
dian Pudding, baked— New England or Bread Pudding- 
Nottingham Pudding -Pound Pudding, etc.— Queen Mab's 
Pudding— Eice Pudding— Snow Pudding— Swiss Pudding 
— Tapioca, Sago and Farina Puddings. 

BAKEWELL PUDDING. 

This pudding, so-called, is famous throughout Eng- 
land. It is made of a pufif-paste, a layer cf any kind of 
jam, and then on top of the jam some chopped almonds, 
and filled up with a rich custard. 

BIRD'S NEST PUDDING. 
Pare 1 doz apples and take out the cores without 
breaking them; fill the holes where the cores came out, 
with sugar, after placing the apples in an earthen pud- 
ding dish. Make a batter of 1 qt milk, ^ doz eggs and 
sufficient flour; pour this over the apples, and bake until 
the fruit is soft. Serve with cream sauce. 

BUBBLE PUDDING. 

One quart of fresh milk, 5 eggs, well beaten, 3 table- 
spoonfuls of corn starch, 1 tablespoonful of sugar, nut- 
meg to taste, pinch of soda in the milk. Scald the milk, 
stir in the coi'n starch, cook one minute, and pour uj on 
the beaten eggs and sugar. Season, whip up well; pour 



MISCELLANEOUS PUDDINGS. 131 

into a round-bottomed mould, well-buttered, fit on the 
top, set in a pot of boiling water, boil three-quarters of 
an hour, turn out upon a dish, and eat with wine sauce. 
It will almost certainly break in two on the way to the 
table, hence the name. 

CABINET PUDDING. 

Save cake crumbs till sufficient to make the size pud- 
ding needed; assort all the best parts, those parts that 
are not burned, or to which paper is not attached, leaving 
them in good sized chunks; place them in a mould or 
pan; take one quart of sweet milk, \ ft sugar, 3 eggs; 
beat well together and pour upon the cake, adding a lew 
currants or raisins. This pudding is always baked or 
steamed. The pudding can be made any size, but as the 
cake crumbs always contain sugar and eggs, ^ ft sugar 
and 3 eggs are sufficient to 1 quart milk. 

CHICAGO PUDDINGS. 

Crumble a pound of sponge cakes and some cocoa- 
nut grated in a basin; pour over a pint and a half of rich 
cream previously sweetened with a quarter of a pound 
of loaf sugar, and brought to a boiling point. Cover 
the basin, and when the cream is soaked up stir in it 
eight well beaten eggs. Butter a mould, arrange four 
or five ounces of preserved ginger round it; pour in the 
pudding carefully and tie it down with a cloth; steam 
or boil slowly for an hour and a half; serve with the 
syrup from the ginger, which should be warmed and 
poured over the pudding. In the way of ambrosia, so- 
called: Peel and slice twelve sweet oranges, a grated 
cocoanut added, and a cup of powdered sugar. Arrange 
this in layers in a cut-glass compote, having the cocoa- 



132 MISCEL.LANEOUS PUODINOS. 

nut and sugar for the crowning point; it must be served 
directly after it is prepared. Opposed to this arc 
orange snow-halls: Boil some rice for ten minutes, drain 
and allow it to cool; pare some oranges closely; spread 
the rice, as many portions as there are oranges, on some 
pudding cloths; tie the fruit, surrounded by the rice, 
separately in these, and boil the balls for one hour; turn 
them out carefully on a flat dish of green majolica, 
sprinkle them with a quantity of sifted pounded suga 
candy; serve with sauce or sweetened cream. 

COLD CORN-STARCH PUDDING. 

Take 1 qt of boiling milk, 6 ozs sugar, and 6 ozs corn- 
starch; sift the sugar and corn-starch together; stii- 
into the boiling milk until it thickens; flavor according 
to taste, and set in moulds previously wet with water, or 
the white of an egg; set to cool; serve with sweetened 
cold cream. 

CORN-STARCH PUDDING. 

A simple but sure way to inake corn-starch pudding 

is, first to boil 1 qt of milk. Take 4 ozs corn-starch, (5 

ozs white sugar and 4 eggs; beat together the sugar and 

eggs and corn-^^tarch ; put them into the boiling milk 

stir briskly until the mass thickens; flavor with vanilla; 

use cream sauce. , , , ... 

•'Iluio'WiO *>a;Dbriq 

CRACKER pudding; ^ ' 

Is made by taking six milk crackers and rolling them 
very fine. Let them soak in two teacupfuls of water; 
add the grated rind and the juice of two large leinons, 
and one-half pound of sugar. Make f-orae puff paste- 
with which to line the puddi rg dish.- liake for -half Tin- 



MISCELLANEOUS PUDDINGS. 133 



hour. This may be eaten with or without sauce. If 
with sauce, make that in this way: beat one egg, add a 
little water, thicken it with corn-starch, sweeten to 
taste. Keserve a little of the rind for flavoring. Let it 
just come to a boil. 

INDIAN PUDDING— BAKED. 

Soak 1 ib of corn meal in 2 qts of milk or water; 
pour into 3 qts of boiling milk, and cook the same as 
mush. "When thoroughly boiled, add 1 tb of brown 
sugar, ^ pt molasses, a little ginger and 1 doz eggs; bake 
the same as foriice pudding. This pudding can also be 
steamed in moulds. Serve with brandy sauce. 

NEW ENGLAND, OR BREAD PUDDING. 

Take any quantity of bread; soak it in cold water in 
order to extract the yeast (as the latter would make the 
custard sour); squeeze the water out as dry as possible. 
Make a custard as follows: 1 qt milk; i fib sugar; 4 
eggs; a little molasses; some ginger and nutmeg; pour 
upon the bread; bake or steam until done. This makes 
New England Pudding, Washington Pudding, etc. 

NOTTINGHAM PUDDING. 

One pint sifted flour, 3 gills of milk, 1 gill rich cream, 
a apples, 4 eggs, a saltspoon of salt. Pare the appks 
and take out the cores without cutting them. Mix the 
batter very smooth and pour over the apples. Bake one 
hour. Serve with wine or cream sauce. 

POUND PUDDING, ETC. 
One ft) of sugar and 1 lb of butter; rub the same as 



134 MISCELLANEOUS PUDDINGS. 

for pound cake; add 1 doz eggs, rubbir g them into 
it; then add 1 pt milk, 2| lbs of flour and 3 ozs baking 
powder (or -^ oz soda and 1| ozs cream tartar). Put the 
mixture into moulds and steam. With this mixture a 
{^[reat variety of puddings may be made. Add to it 2 
ibs of raisins, for Raisin or Malaga Pudding; add 
2 fbs currants, for Currant Pudding; add 2 flbs 
citron, for Citron or Peel Pudding; grate and add the 
rinds of six lemons, for Lemon Pudding. By farther 
iiddiug 2 qts of blackberries, raspberries, or any other 
fruit, with the addition of about 1 lb flour, a variety of 
fruit puddings are produced. Sponge Pudding is made 
by taking ten eggs to 1 ft) sugar; beat the same as for 
common sponge cake; when beaten light, mix into it 1 
pt milk and 2 lbs floui', with a little baking powder (or 
soda and cream tartar), the same as pound pudding. 
All the foregoing puddings are generally boiled or 
steamed. 

QUEEN MAB'S PUDDING— (Cold). 
Take one pint of cream, one ounce of isinglass, one 
ounce of mixed citron and lemon-peel, two ounces of 
preserved cherries, and sugar to taste; add half a wine- 
glassful of brandy; mix well, pour it into a mould, 
and ice. 

RICE PUDDING. 

Wash the rice well; soak it in sweet milk for a half 
hour; boil some milk; about 3 qts to ^ lb rice, and 1 qt 
to soak it in, making four quarts in all. When the milk 
boilSj put the rice into it and stir very often, unless 
steam is used when it does not need stirring. When 
boiled, take | ft) white sugar and 8 eggs: beat together 



MISCEliLANEOUS PUDDINGS. 135 



and pour into the rice; flavor with lemon or vaniHa; 
pour into a pan or earthen dish and bake until it rises 
in the center; if left to bake any longer it is very apt to 
curdle: For this pudding, some use sweetened milk 
with a little thickening in it; some use hard sauce; 
while others again prefer bi'andy sauce. The above is 
called rice custard. A very nice rice padding is made 
without eggs. After the rice is cooked, put with the 
above | pt of brandy and bake as usual; or it does very 
well without the brandy. 

SNOW PUDDING. 
Soak about 2 ozs gelatine in a very little cold water 
for an hour to two, add 2 gills of boiling water and the 
juice of two lemons. When cold and commencing to 
thicken, stir in the whites of three eggs beaten to a stift' 
froth. Beat rapidly for fifteen minutes, pour into a glass 
bowl and set away to grow firm. Make a boiled custard 
with the yolks of the three eggs, two gills of milk and 2 
ozs of sugar. Pour this over the pudding (after it has 
hardened) if there is room in the bowl, or mould the 
gelatine in a form, turn it onto a platter, and serve with 
the custard poured around it. 

SWISS PUDDING. 
For a quart pie-dish, cut up 2 lbs of apples, put them 
into a saucepan, add a ^ pint of cold water and brown 
sugar to taste, also any flavoring liked. Lemon rind is 
very good with it. Simmer until the fruit is quite soft. 
Butter a pie dish very well, line it with bread crumbs, 
about 1 in. thick at the bottom and as many as will 
adhere to the sides. Beat the apple mixture until 
thoroughly light, adding one egg, beaten separately- 



136 MISCELLANEOUS PUDDINGS. 

Put tLis into the dish, cover with a layer of bread 
crumbs. Pat a few small pieces of butter on the top 
and bake 20 minutes or until the crumbs are nicely 
browned. Turn out on to a dish, and sift with white 
sugar. 

TAPIOCA, SAGO AND FARINA PUDDINGS. 

Wash, cook and prepare in the same manner as for 
rice pudding; observing, however, that the above ingre- 
dients need 4 eggs to each quart of milk. 



THE COMPLETE 

practical pagtriij Gool^, 



IN — 



THREE PARTS. 



PART III. 



Savory Pies and Puddings; Patties, 
Vol-au-Vents, Etc. 



CHICAGO : 
J. Thompson Gill, Manager Confectioner and Baker Publishing Co., 

1889. 



I 



Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1889, by 

The Confectioner and Baker Publishing Co. 

In the office of Librarian of Congress, at Wasliington, D. C. 

All Rights Reserred. 



I 



CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER I. PACB 

Miscellaneous Articles for Savory Pies, Puddings, etc. 5 

CHAPTER 11. 
Savory Sauces 14 

CHAPTER III. 
Raised Pies; Meat, Game, etc 18 

CHAPTER IV. 
Meat and Game Pie Fillings, Pasties, etc 25 

CHAPTER V. 
Fish Pies 70 

CHAPTER VI. 
Vegetable Pies 85 

CHAPTER VII. 
Patties, Vol-au-Vents 92 

CHAPTER VIII. 
Savory Boiled Puddings 112 

CHAPTER IX. 
Vegetable and Garnish, etc., Puddings 122 

CHAPTER X. 
Meat and Fish Batter Puddings 128 

CHAPTER XL 
Timbales 1^1 

CHAPTER XII. 
Savory Fritters (Beignets), Rissoles and Cromesques 137 

CHAPTER XIII. 
Boudins 142 

CHAPTER XIV. 
Souffles — Fondues (Mayonaise Souffles) 152 



CHAPTER I. 

Miscellaneous Articles for Savory Pies, 
Puddings, etc., etc. 

Anchovies, Essence of — Aromatic Herbaceous Seasonings- 
Aspic Jelly — Custard for Garnish — Custard for Garnish 
(white) — Forcemeat of Liver and Ham for Raised Pies — 
Farce or Forcemeat (2) — Forcemeat, Oysters— Financiere 
Ragout— Fine Herbs for Puddings— Glaze —Glaze for 
Pastry— Gravy for Fish Pies, etc. — Half Glaze — Jelly for 
Game Pies — Jelly for Meat Pies — Mushrooms for Pud- 
dings — Panada for Puddings — Potato Paste— Quenelles 
for Boudins — Rice Pastry for Savory Dishes — Roux — 
Roux, brown— Roux, white— Stock — Stock, brown — Preser- 
vation of Pastry. 

ANCHOVIES, ESSENCE OF. 
Remove the bones from a few Anchovies; beat into 
paste with green chilies, or cayenne pepper and shallots; 
mix with about 1 pt walnut catsup and ^ pt mushroom 
catsup; preserve in well closed bottles. 

AROMATIC HERBACEOUS SEASONING. 

1 oz nutmeg. 3 ozs majoram. 

1 oz mace. 2 ozs winter savory. 

2 ozs cloves. 3 ozs thyme. 

2 ozs peppercorns. ^ oz cayenne pepper. 

1 oz dried bay leaves. | oz grated lemon peel. 

3 ozs basil. 2 cloves of garlic. 
Pulverize in a mortar; sift through a fine sieve, and 

put away for use, in a dry, well corked bottle. 



6 ARTICLES FOR SAVORY PIKS, PUDDINGS, ETC. 

ASPIC JELLY. 

1 qt good stock brotb. 1 sprig of thyme. 
6 shallots. 6 cloves. 

2 bay leaves. 4 ozs gelatine, 
raace, q. s. 

Place in a stew-pan upon the fire and stir until the 
gelatine becomes thoroughly dissolved, vphen remove 
from the fire to cool. Whip three whites of eggs with 
■^ pt cold water and a tablespoon tarragon vinegar, and 
having well mixed this in with the aspic, stir over the fire 
until it boils; after allowing it to boil ten minutes, pass 
through a jelly-bag or napkin; it will then be fit for use- 

CUSTARD FOR GARNISH. 

Make a cold custard of ten yolks of eggs and ^ pt 
good clear stock; steam this in a prepai'ed pudding 
mould ; when cold, cut into fancy shapes, and serve in 
consomme, etc. 

For sweet custard for garnish, use cream In place of 
stock, adding half a glass of rum and a very little sugar. 

CUSTARD FOR GARNISH— WHITE. 

Make a cold custard of 6 whites of eggs, just broken 
with the whisk, and not quite ^ pt melted (but not hot) 
clear stock; season, steam and serve as above. 

For sweet custard for garnish (white), use cream in 
place of stock, adding half a glass of white noyeau, and 
a little sugar. 

FORCEMEAT OF LIVER AND HAM, FOR RAISED 
PIES. 

Take equal quantities of calf's liver and fat bacon; cut 
into square pieces the size of a walnut; fry the pieces of 



ARTICLES FOR SAVORY PIES, PUDDINGS, ETC. 7 

bacon in a lar^e stew-pan, and when about half done 
add the liver; season with aromatic herbaceous season- 
ing, a clove of garlic and a little salt. As soon as the 
liver is about half done, first chop tine, aud then pound 
the whole in a mortar until reduced to a smooth sub- 
stance, and force this through a wire sieve; put in a 
basin for use. 

FARCE, OR FORCEMEAT (2). 
To I ft) veal cutlet, from which cut off all the sinews, 
add i ft» bacon or ham, cutting off all the rind and out- 
side. To this add \ lb dressed ox-tongue. Chop all 
very fine, after which, pound in a mortar till quite 
smooth. Add a little parsley, mixed herbs and shallot, 
and a small portion of truffles, if they are to be had. 
These herbs must also be chopped fine. Mix and season 
with pepper and salt, powdered mace, ground allspice 
aud one egg. For game, chicken, pigeon, etc., add the 
liver of the several birds. 

FORCEMEAT, OYSTERS. 
Open and beard 2 doz fresh oysters, and preserve the 
liquor; mince them finely, pound to a smooth paste, 
and mix with 5 ozs finely grated bread crumbs, 1 oz 
butter, the rind of half a lemon chopped fine, cayenne, 
salt, pepper and minced parsley; when well mixed, bind 
together with the unbeaten yolk of an egg, and a small 
ijuantity of the oyster liquor, added very gradually. 

FINANCIERE RAGOUT. 

Place in a stew-pan, ready cooked, a few cockscombs, 
button mushrooms, truffles, quenelles, and scollops of 
.sweetbreads; add | pt brown sauce (flavored if possible 



8 ARTICLES FOR SAVORY PIES, PUDDINGS, ETC. 

with game), a gla'-s of sherry or madeira, and a small 
pinch of cayenne; boil together for three minutes, and 
serve for garnishes of vol-au-veuts, patties, etc. 

FINE HERBS FOR PUDDINGS. 

Chop some parsley, some prepared mushrooms, and 
about four shallots; fry with 3 ozs butter; season with 
pepper and salt, and put by for use. 

GLAZE 

is made from clear stock, boiled down until it forms a 
sort of meat varnish or strong jelly. The knuckles of 
veal, the legs and shins of beef, and the shanks of 
mutton are particularly glutinous, and therefore the 
best for making glaze; it may be kept for some time in 
small jars, if kept drj'. 

GLAZE FOR PASTRY. 

A rich yellow glaze is given to meat pies by brushing 
them over with the beaten yolk of an egg. A lighter 
glaze is given by using the white as well as the yolk, 
and a lighter still by the addition of a little milk; or, 
for sweet dishes, by brushing the pastry with sugar 
and water, 

GRAVY FOR FISH PIES, ETC. 
Take any common fish, such as eels, flounders or 
pike, or a mixture of one or two kinds; cut into small 
pieces and put in a stew-pan ; to 2 lbs fish put 1^ pts 
water, pepper, salt, two bunches of parsley, a sprig each 
of majoram and thyme, a blade of mace, and a crust of 
bread toasted brown and hard; simmer gently for an 
hour or more, then strain; thicken with flour and 
butter, and a teaspoon of anchovy essence, or 2 or 8 



ARTICLES FOR SAVORY PIES, PUDDINGS, ETC. 9 

pounded anchovies. If brown gravy is wanted, the fish 
must be fried before it is stewed. 

HALF GLAZE 
is the best stock reduced over the fire to a half glaze; it 
must be used sparingly. 

JELLY FOR GAME PIES. 

Take the bones of birds and the various cuttings from 
veal, tongue and other meats; add a little parsley, 
sw^eet-herbs and shallot; cover with broth or water; re- 
duce the quantity by simmering to one-half; dissolve 
and add gelatine; season with pepper, salt and mace; 
strain through a seive, and put into pies, as directed. 

JELLY FOR MEAT PIES. 

Take 1-^ ft s of the knuckle or neck of veal, and ^ ft 
of the shin of beef; cut them into small pieces, and put 
into a sauce-pan with \ pt good beef stock; simmer 
gently for a half hour, then add 2 pts more stock, a 
shallot, 3 ozs undressed lean ham, J teaspoon bruised 
celery seed tied in muslin, a clove, a small bunch of 
savory herbs, and ^ doz peppercorns. Simmer slowly 
for 3 or 4 hours or until the liquid will jelly. If quickly 
boiled the jelly will not be so clear. Strain the gravy, 
add salt if required, and put aside until quite cold, so 
that the fat may be entirely removed. 

MUSHROOMS FOR PUDDINGS. 

Put into a stewpan 3 ozs. of butter, with a little water, 

a pinch of salt, and a few drops of lemon-jnice; cut the 

end, or dirty parts, off 1 doz mushrooms, wash them 

quickly in three or four waters, and turn or peel them 



10 ARTICLES FOR SAVORY PIES, PUDDINGS, ETC. 

ueatly with a sharp vegetable knife, throwing them into 
the prepared liquor as they are done; place them on the 
lire, boil with a cover on for about four minutes; put by 
iu the liquor. 

PANADA FOR PUDDINGS, QUENELLES, ETC. 

Put on in a stewpan ^ pt best white broth, flavored 
with shallot and a little parsley, and sufficient bread 
crumbs to form it into a sort of paste; set at the corner 
of the stove to swell, then stir in a pat of butter; stir 
until it detaches from the sides of the stew-pan and is 
quite firm to the touch; put it on a buttered plate, flat- 
ten, let it cool, and use as directed. 

POTATO PASTE. 
Bake 1 doz large white potatoes, and when done and 
just out of the oven, rub their pulp through a clean wire 
sieve; put this into a stew-pan with 2 ozs butter, 4 yolks 
of eggs, nutmeg, pepper and salt; stir the paste over the 
fire until it ceases to adhere to the sides of the stew-pau ; 
roll it out on the slab with flour, remembering that as 
this paste possesses little elasticity it must be handled 
with care, and when rolled out to the size and in the 
form of the dish which has to be covered with it, the 
cover should be divided into two or four parts (accord- 
ing to the size of the pie); by this contrivance it will be 
more easily adjusted on the top by gently pressing the 
joints together with the flat part of the thumb; parts of 
f he paste can be used to decorate the surface of a pie in 
the usual way. 

QUENELLES FOR BOUDINS. 

Scrape with a knife all the best part from 2 lbs of leg 



ARTICLES FOR SAVORY PIES, PUDDINGS, ETC. 11 



of veal; cut in slices, leaving the fibre or skin part only, 
which put into the stock pot to avoid waste; pass the 
pulp of meat thus obtained through a wire sieve; pound 
this with half the quantity of finished panada; add | pt 
double cream, 2 whole eggs, and seasonings to taste; use 
as directed. Quenelles may be made of other meats, 
fish, game, poultry, etc., in a similar manner. 

RICE PASTE FOR S IVORY DISHES. 

Put seasoned cutlets of veal, lamb, chicken, or game, 
already dressed, into a pie-dish; cover the meat with a 
layer of rice which has been boiled to a stiff paste in a 
little milk, with pepper, salt and onion for seasoning; 
brush over with egg, and put into the oven for a minute 
or two to color the paste lightly. A little egg mixed 
with the rice will make it adhere better. 

ROUX 

is simply a mixture of flour and butter, which, when 
baked, is used for thickening soups and gravies; it 
should be kept in a covered jar, and will remain good 
for months. A teaspoon ful is generally sufficient to 
thicken a pint of gravy, etc. 

ROUX— BROWN. 

Dissolve ^ ft fresh butter; skim well, let stand for a 
minute, aud pour it away from the impurities, which 
will settle at the bottom. Put the clear, oily part into a 
sauce-pan over a slow fire, and shake into it about ^ ft 
fine flour, or as much as will make a tbick paste. Stir 
constantly, heating slowly and equally until it is ver3'^ 
thick and of a bright brown color; put into a jar till 
needed. 



12 ARTICLES FOR SAVORY PIES, PUDDINGS, ETC. 

ROUX -WHITE. 
Proceed as above, but be careful to remove the paste 
from the fire before it has acquired any color. White 
roux is used for white sauces. 

STOCK. 

Cut 1 fb of shin of beef into small pieces; put into a 
clean stewpan with a few bones (broken up small), and 
about five pints of water. Trimmings of meat or poul- 
try, if convenient, may also be thrown into the pot, as 
well as a little bacon rind which has been first scalded or 
scraped. Bring the contents of the pan slowly to the 
boil; carefully remove the scum as it rises, and throw in 
a spoonful of cold water now and then to assist it in 
doing so. An onion with a clove stuck into it, a turnip, 
a carrot, two leeks, a few outer sticks of celery, with a 
little salt and pepper may be added, if liked. Draw the 
sauce-pan to the side of the fire, and let its contents 
simmer very gently, keeping it covered, excepting when 
it is necessary to take off the lid for the purpose of skim- 
ming. Strain into an earthenware pan, and remove the 
fat when it forms on the surface. It should simmer 
about four hours. 

STOCK, BROWN. 
There are various ways of browning stock; the best is 
to let it boil to a glaze when making it, letting it color 
itself over the fire. Stock made from bones cannot, 
however, be thus colored, and in this case Liebig's 
extract may be used. Brown thickening may be em- 
ployed when the stock is to be thickened as well as 
browned, though it must be remembered that after it is 
added the stock must simmer by the side of the fire. 



ARTICLES FOB SAVORY PIES, PUDDINGS, ETC. 13 

that it may throw up the fat, which should be removed. 
Liquid browning, which can be bottled and used as 
required, may be made as follows: Put J pt moist sugar 
in a stew-pan and let it remain over a gentle fire till it 
is melted; keep stirring with a wooden spoon till it is 
almost black; pour upon it 1 pt water, and let it remain 
until dissolved. Three or four drops will color 1 pt 
stock. 

PEESERVATION OF PASTRY. 

Pastry should never be put into a cold pantry directly 
it comes out of the oven, as the sudden change of tem- 
perature is likely to make it heavy. It may be kept 
good for several days if put into a tin box, when perfectly 
cold. 



CHAPTEE II. 
SAVORY SAUCES. 

Bechemel Sauce — Bohemian Sauce — Brown Sauce (Espagnol) 
— Cardinal's Sauce — Chestnut Sauce — Dutch Sauce — 
D'Uxelles Sauce — Grouse Sauce — Poivrade Sauce — 
Steward's Sauce (maitre d'hotel)— Suprenie Sauce— Tata 
Cold Sauce (Ma yon aise)— Truffle Sauce— Venison Sauce — 
White Sauce. 

BECHEMEL SAUCE. 

Pat 4 ozs flour into a sauce-pan with 2 ozs butter; 
knead these together smoothly by working them with a 
wooden spoon; add an onion, a carrot, some celery, 
l^arsley, a bay leaf and thyme (the vegetables out thin), 
a little nutmeg, pepper and salt; moisten with 1^ pts 
milk; stir the sauce over the fire while it boils sharply 
for 20 minutes; then strain it through a tammy into a 
basin — afterwards to be immediately removed into a 
convenient-sized covered stew-pan or bain-marie, for 
use. 

It is important when stirring a sauce upon the fire, to 
bear with some strength and a little tact on the edge of 
the bowl of the wooden spoon, so as to prevent the 
sauce from burning at the bottom of the stew-pan while 
it is being reduced, especially with such sauces as con- 
tain milk or cream. 

BOHEMIAN SAUCE. 
Sweat 3 ozs of chopped trufHes over the fire, with a 
glass of sherry ; add ^ pt brown sauce. 



SAVORY SAUCES. 15 



BROWN SAUCE. 

(espagnol). 
Put some well-finished brown ronx into a stew-pan 
over the fire; stir in best brown stock until the consist- 
ency of single cream; clarify (as for white sauce), and 
when the butter is all ofi", pour it into a stew-pan, in 
which has been sweated, with a pat of butter, some lean 
ham (cut in small dice), some trimmings of mushrooms, 
one sliced shallot, and two glasses of sherry; reduce (as 
for white sauce) until the consistency of cream; squeeze 
through a tammy and put by for use. 

CARDINAL'S SAUCE. 
Put on in a stew-pan over the fire, some trimmings of 
fish, with a little white stock; make an essence of this; 
strain and boil it down to half; add a glass of sherry 
and ^ pt of unereamed white sauce, reduced, and some 
live lobster spawn, rubbed through a sieve with a pat of 
butter; clarify at the corner of the stove, and squeeze 
through a tammy. 

CHESTNUT SAUCE. 

Peel and skin twenty- four chestnuts; simmer them 
over the stove in stock until tender; rub them through 
a tammy; add more stock if required, and a spoonful of 
brown sauce; season to taste. 

DUTCH SAUCE. 

Scrape a little horse-radish, and boil it in four spoons- 
ful of elder vinegar; add ^ pt white sauce, and 5 yolks 
of eggs; pass through a metal search, and keep hot in 
the bain-marie until required. 

D'UXELLES SAUCE. 
Chop separately a sufficient quantity of prepared 



16 SAVORY SAUCES. 



mushrooms, three shallots, a handful of parsley, and 3 
02S truffles; pass the whole over the fire with 3 ozs butter, 
pepper, salt and a little nutmeg; add 1^ glasses sherry; 
reduce this to half; mix in 1| gills white sauce, and 
thicken with 4 yolks of eggs. This is used for masking, 
etc. 

GROUSE SAUCE. 

Put some stock to trimmings of grouse and boil until 
an essence is obtained; strain and reduce it to half; add 
a glass of sherry and some brown sauce; let it simmer; 
squeeze through a tammy. 

Most essences may be made in this manner, 

POIVRADE SAUCE. 
Put 2 ozs of butter into a stew-pan, with two onions, 
a shallot, a carrot, a turnip, cut into dice, two cloves, a 
bay leaf, and a sprig of thyme; stir constantly over a 
gentle fire until lightly browned; dredge over them a 
spoonful of flour, add pepper, salt, a glass of claret, half 
a glass of vinegar, and one of water; boil gently for a 
half hour; skim, strain and serve. 

STEWARD'S SAUCE. 

(maitbe d'hotel.) 
Chop a little parsley very fine, and squeeze it in a 
cloth; reduce some white sauce; and if for fish, add 
some of the essence made from the bones, and reduced 
in half a glass of sherry; pass through a metal search, 
and add the chopped parsley, with a little lemon juice. 

SUPREME SAUCE. 
Put some white sauce into a stew-pan, add some trim- 
mings of chicken, and a little essence of truffles; reduce 
the whole over the fire; pass through a tammy for use. 



SAVORY SAUCES. 17 



TATA COLD SAUCE. 

(mayonaise ) 

Place two raw yolks of egg.s in a rouod-bottomed 
basin, set in pounded ice; stir iu briskly with a wooden 
spoon, some salad oil di'opped in very sparingly at first; 
add a little salt and proceed stirring in the oil carefully, 
and using a little tarragon and French vinegar when 
required. When a sufficient quantity is thus made, and 
has the appearance of alight petit choux, season to taste; 
this is MAYONAisE. For tata sauce, reduce some of this 
with a little vinegar and cream, and stir in a little chop- 
ped tarragon. 

TRUFFLE SAUCE. 

Chop 2 ozs truffles very fine; sweat them over the fire 
with half a glass of sherry; add ^ pt Supreme sauce to 
this. 

VENISON SAUCE. 

Boil 2 glasses of port wine to half; add some red 
currant jelly and 1^ gills brown sauoe; boil up and pass 
through a tammy. 

WHITE SAUCE. 
Put some well finished white roux into a stew-pan 
over the charcoal stove or hot plate; stir into this some 
best white stock to the consistency of single cream; 
when well mixed, set it at the corner of the stove to 
simmer, with the cover three parts over to allow the 
butter to rise; when taken off, place over a quick fire 
with some prepared mushrooms, stirring all the time 
until reduced to the consistency of double cream; pour 
in some boiled cream, pass through a tammy and put by 
for use. 

2 



CHAPTEE III. 
Raised Pies; Meat, Game, Etc. 

Raised Pies — Raised Pies in Moulds — Paste for Raised Pies^ 
French Raised Pie— French Paste (Pate Brisee)— Hot 
Water Paste— Three Quarter Paste— Cold Water Paste — 
Additional Pastes — How to Ornament Game Pies — Game 
Pie Shells. 

RAISED PIES. 

Raised pies may be made of any size and with almost 
ill! kinds of meat, poultry or game, the only indispen- 
sable requisite being that there shall be no bone in 
them. They are usually served cold, and should be 
rather highly flavored. The pastry of small pies is 
generally eaten, but with large pies it is merely used as ■ 

a case in which to serve the savory preparation inside. 
There is no difficulty in making the paste for raised 
pies, but inexperienced cooks often find it difficult to 
laise the walls of the pie; this latter is easier of accomp- 
lishment if a tin mould is used. 

For the manner of forming raised pies, both with and 
without moulds, as well as for a variety of pastes suit- 
able therefor, see Part I. Chapter 3. 

Raised pies should be baked in a well heated but by 
no means brisk oven, and if there is any danger of the 
pastry being too highly colored, a buttered paper should 
be laid over it. To ascertain when the pie is done 
enough, run a skewer into the middle of it, and if it is 



4 



RAISED PlES; MEAT, GAME, ETC. 19 

tender throughout, it is done. When the appearance of 
the pie is a consideration, it is a good plan to cut the 
top carefully out, and cover the meat with bright stiff 
aspic jelly, cut into dice. If this is not done, however, 
a little good bright gravy, which will form a jelly when 
cold, should always be poured into the pie through the 
hole at the top, whenever it is taken out of the oven. 
In summer time it is safer to stiffen this with a little 
dissolved isinglass. When a mould is used, richer 
pastry can be employed than without its use. 

KAISED PIES IN MOULDS. 

{Use hot water paste or three quarter pasfe, as described 
below): 

The mould must be well buttered with a butter brush 
dipped in melted butter, taking care that every part is 
covered, or the crust will stick. To line the mould, the 
easiest way is to take a small portion of the paste, roll 
it out to the size of the bottom of the mould, where, 
press carefully down so as to lay quite level. Then, 
with the remainder of the paste (or sufficient of it to 
form a long strip the exact circumference of the mould, 
and about 2 inches wider than its depth) proceed to line 
the sides, pressing into the flutes or ornamental depres- 
sions with a small portion of the paste. Wet with a 
brush the extreme edge, so that where it falls on the 
bottom it may stick to the bottom piece only. Press 
this down close so as to make the crust water-tight, or 
the gravy will be lost. Trim off the top edges, and it is 
ready for the filling. This paste being dry and tough, 
is not generally eaten. (For additional instructions see 
Part I. Chapter 3). 



20 RAISED pies; meat, oame, etc. 



PASTE FOR RAISED PIES. 

In making raised pies the first consideration is, 
whether the pastry is intended to be eaten or not; if 
merely to form a mould in which to hold the meat, etc., 
it may be made firm and compact without much diffi- 
culty, and may be beaten with a rolling-pin, or kneaded 
with the knuckles, to make it stiff and hard. If the 
paste is intended to be eaten, greater care will be 
necessary. 

When the pastry is not to be eaten; dissolve 3 or 4 ozs 
of lard in ^ pt of boiling water, and stir in as much flour 
as will make a stiff smooth paste; a little more than a 
pound being required. Knead it thoroughly with the 
fingers, and when it is sufficiently firm to keep its form 
when moulded, put it into a bowl, and cover with a 
cloth until it is nearly cold. Dredge a little flour on the 
pastry board, put the pastry upon it, and roll it with the 
hands into the shape of a sugar-loaf or cone, with the 
diameter of the lower part rather less than the size 
required for the pie. Place the cone upright, and flaten 
the top until it is half the height. Press it down with 
the knuckles of the right hand, at the same time form- 
ing the walls of the pie with the left. When the sides 
are smooth, and of equal thickness, fill the pie, roll out 
the cover, lay it on, and make a hole in the centre. 
Fasten the edges securely with a little egg, ornament the 
pie according to fancy, glaze it by brushing it over with 
the beaten yolk of an egg, and bake in a quick oven. 

An easier way of shaping a raised pie, is to roll out 
the pastry to the required thickness, and then cut out a 
piece for the top and bottom, and a long strip for the 
sides. These pieces must be fastened with egg, and the 



RAISED pies; meat, GAJIE, ETC. 21 

edges pressed over one another, so as to be securely 
fastened. The pie is then finished as above. 

Wfien (he jMstry is. to eaten; rub \ ft batter into 1 ft 
flour; sprinkle over it a piuch of salt. Pour another ^ 
ft butter into a sauce-pan with \ pt milk; stir over a 
gentle tire until the butter is dissolved; pour the liquid 
over the flour, and stir it to a smooth paste; dredge 
some flour over it; give it two or three turns, and mould 
it into the proper shape before it has had time to cool. 

FEENCH RAISED PIE. 

According to Ude this should be moulded as follows: 
Take a lump of paste the size of the pie to be made; 
mould it in the shape of a sugur-loaf ; put it upright on 
the table, and with the palms of the hands flatten the 
sides of it; when these are equalized all round, and it is 
quite smooth, squeeze the point of the cone down to 
half the height of the paste; then hollow the inside by 
pressing it with the fingers, being careful to keep it in 
every part of equal thickness; fill it, roll out the cover, 
egg the edges, press them securely together, make a 
hole in the centre, lay a roll of paste round it, and 
encircle this with a wreath of leaves, or ornament the 
pie accoi'diug to taste; glaze with the beaten yolk of 
egg, and bake from 2 to 3 hours in a well heated oven, 
if the pie is small; or if large, from 4 to 5 hours, the 
time being regulated by the nature of the contents and 
the size of the pie. 

FRENCH PASTE (PATE BRISEE). 

6 ozs butter, , pinch of salt, 

1 ft) flour, cup of water. 



22 RAISED pir:s; meat, game, etc. 

Make rather stifif; lard or suet may be used in place 
of the butter. 

HOT WATER PASTE. 

Put 1 ft) of flour on the table ; spread it out with the 
back of the hand so as to form a hollow in the centre; 
put in 1 oz salt, and ^ pt of hot water with 4 czs of 
dissolved butter; mix all together with the hand into a 
firm paste; work it compactly with both hands; roll it 
up in a cloth, and put it in a warm stew-pan for use. 

THREE-QUARTER PASTE. 
Mix 2 ft)S flour with 1^ tbs butter, and rub well 
together. Add sufficient water to make the mass into a 
stiflf dough; work it well. 

COLD WATER PASTE. 

Prepare 1 lb flour with a hollow in the centre; add | 
oz salt, 4 ozs butter, and -^ pt water; mix the whole into 
a firm compact paste. 

{For additional pastes, etc., for raised pies, etc., see Fart 
I. Chapter 3). 

HOW TO ORNAMENT GAME PIES. 

This may be done in three ways, some being appli- 
cable to all raised pies; (1) by using the plumage of the 
bird; (2) with aspic jelly; (3) by paste decorations (see 
Part I. Chapter 3). To proceed according to the first 
method, — before boning the bird, cut through the skin 
right down the breast from neck to rump in a straight 
line, very carefully removing the skin at the wings; cut 
these latter from the body, as also the head with the 
neck and the rump, leaving all these parts attached to 



RAISED ritjs; :>ii;at, game, etc. 23 



the skin. Havitig doue tliiri, put tbe skia or skins on 
one side. Now take out the inside of the bird, cut 
out all the bones, and fill as usual This being done 
and the pie baked and cold, go on with the decora- 
tion. Taking the plumage if it be a pheasant (with the 
head, neck and wings attached) in the land, pass a 
small skewer up the neck, right into the head, leaving 
about two inches of the skewer to put into the pie, to 
act as a prop. Cover the pie with a sheet of writing 
paper cut to its size, and arrange the plumage nicely 
and gracefully over it, pressing the skewer into the pie 
exactly where a proper posture of the bird will force it. 
A sprig of parsley put into the beak, and the whole 
thing is complete. If partridge or grouse, the tails of 
the birds are usually put together, the heads being over 
the edge of the pie. 

GAME PIE SHELLS. 

Take 2 tt>s flour, into which rub 4 ozs butter; place in 
a sauce-pan on the lire f pt water, with 4 ozs mutton 
suet and | oz salt; when boiling, make a bay in the tiour 
and mix. The paste should be stiff, and be either passed 
through a biscuit break or be well worked with the 
hands till it is firm and pliable; roll out the paste 1 inch 
thick, and with a piece of cardboard, the size and shajie 
i-equired (oval or round) placed upon it, cut out the 
bottom with a sharp knifp, then cut out the middle in one 
piece, about 3 inches deep, and the length required. It 
is necessary to have a paste-brush and an egg to gloss 
the paste ovei", and also to make it stick together. 
Gloss the edge of the bottom over and place the middle 
on, bevel the two ends a little to make them fit, also to 



24 RAISED pies; meat, game, etc. 

be of one thickness, then fill with bran, put a lid on, 
and if for show in a window, etc., cut some small leaves 
out of the paste, and decorate the lid; put a border 
round the bottom part of the shell, which ornament 
with the paste pincers. Cut some thin pieces of paste 
two inches long, and form chain work round the top, or 
vary the pattern at will; when ornamented, gloss over 
with egg, and let it stand till the next day, if possible; 
bake in a moderate oven. 

These shells are used in the places of dishes, ard are 
considered to look more noble. They are used for 
game, veal and ham, pate-de-foie-gras, etc. This paste 
is not generally eaten, but is only to make the table 
look artistic 



CHAPTEE IV. 
Meat and Game Pie Fillings, Pasties, Etc. 

GENERAL NOTES. 

In this and the following chapters a variety of recipes 
are presented — so great a variety, in fact, that the pastry- 
cook, can with a few variations, be able to produce every 
species of raised pies, p«,tties, etc., that human ingenuity 
can invent. Although specific directions accompany 
most of the recipes, still the cook can often exercise his 
discretion as to the kind of paste to be employed, which 
should be carefully adjusted to the material used, so that 
it should not be too moifit when done. In regard to 
seasoning, discretion must be used. 

Raised pies and patties may also be made of canned 
meats, etc, which, however, need no special directions. 

It is scarcely worth while to more than mention that 
patty cases, game pie cases,etc., can be filled with jellies, 
fruit purees, preserves, etc., for desert. 

BEEF PIE (RAISED). 
See rump-steak pie (2). 

BEEF STEAK PIE. 

Cut a piece of steak in very thin slices, put a small 

piece of suet or fat bacon on each slice, witfh a very 

small quantity of finely mixed parsley, pepper and salt, 

aud powdered sweet herbs; roll up each slice, which 



L'G MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 



should be so cut that when rolled up each will form a 
mouthful; make a layer of them in a pie-dish, rubbed 
with shallot; on that put a layer of kidneys, par-boiled 
for a minute or two, and cat in thin slices; then an- 
other layer of steak and so on until the dish is full; add 
a dash of pepper and salt and pour in as much call's foot 
or aspic jelly as the dish will hold; cover with a short 
crust; ornament, glaze, etc.; bake one and a half or two 
hours. 

BEEF STEAK AND OYSTER PIE. 

Cut up about two pounds rump steak in collops the 
size of a teacup; trim away unnecessary fat and sinew 
without waste; season with pepper and salt; fry them 
brown on both sides with about one ounce butter; shake 
in two tablespoons flour; add two dozen oysters and 
their liquor, a little catsup and chopped onion; shake 
round gently over the fire, allowing all to simmer to- 
gether for five minutes; arrange the collops of beef, etc., 
neatly in the pie-dish; add the sauce and a few cooked 
potatoes; cover with paste; bake one hour. 



BRIDE PIE. 

Par-boil some veal sweet-breads and pieces of lamb; 
cut them into slices; mix with them some slices of blanched 
ox-palate, streaky bacon, one pint oysters, some roast 
chestnuts, seasoning with salt, mace and nutmeg. When 
the pie-dish is full, lay slices of butter on the top, cover 
with paste and bake. When done lift up the lid and put 
into the pie four raw eggs, beaten up with a little butter, 
the juice of a lemon, and a glass of sherry. 



MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 1:7 



CALF'S HEAD PIE. 

{A Scotch Cold Di^h.) 
Scald and soak a moderate sized calf's bead; put in a 
stew pan with a knuckle of veal, two onions, the rind of 
a lemon, cut thin, a small bunch of winter savory and 
parsley, two blades of mace, and a few white peppercorns, 
with as much water as will cover all, and let them simmer 
for a half hour. Remove the head and when it becomes 
cold, cut the meat into small, neat pieces, and after tak- 
ing the skin from the tongue, do the same with the latter. 
Boil the broth by itself, with a small addition of gelatine 
till it is reduced to a strong jellified gravy. Cover the 
bottom of a pie-dish with thin slices of lean ham, then 
add a layer of the head and tongue, a little forcemeat 
made from the knuckle of veal, and hard yolks of eggs 
cut in two. Repeat the layers in the same order till the 
dish is full; season with nutmeg, pepper, salt and a 
little lemon peel. Pour over all as much jelly as the dish 
will hold, cover with good paste, and bake one hour. 
Eaten cold, this pie is most delicious. 

CAPON RAISED PIE. 
Line a mould or shape a pie large enough to hold the 
capon and forcemeat. Spread at the bottom a layer of 
forcemeat and some slices of truffles. Split a capon 
down the back, and take out the bones without injuring 
the skin; lay it breast downward upon a board, season 
with pepper, salt and spices; spread on it a layer of 
forcemeat one-half inch thick; put some slices of truffles 
on this and then another layer of forcemeat. Roll the 
capon over, make the skin meet at the back and shape it 
to fit the mould; lay it breast uppermost, on the force- 



28 MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 

meat on the pie; sprinkle pepper and salt over it, lay on 
it some slices of truffles and cover with forcemeat; lay 
on top thin slices of fat bacon; put on the lid and finish 
as usual. When baked, let it cool one-half hour and 
pour into it through a hole in the top, a quarter pint 
savory gravy, reduced to jelly. 

When quite cold this pie is served in a napkin, garn- 
ished with parsley. Slices of veal or ham may be used 
in place of truffles. 

CHICKEN PIE. (1). 

Take two young chickens, freed from bone; open one 
of the birds by the back and spread it upon a board; season 
with prepared seasoning and salt; fill in with forcemeat, 
(2) and close the bird so as to restore it to its original 
shape. Do the same with the other bird, taking care 
that both are equally fitted. Place in the mould, filling 
up the cavities with fillets of tongue and a few slices of 
bacon or ham. Should the mould not be quite full, put 
in some slices of veal, well seasoned. Bake, and when 
nearly cold, fill up with jelly. 

In making the jelly for this pie, the bones and giblets 
of the chicken may be put in. 

CHICKEN PIE. (2). 
To a large tender chicken add about a half pound salt 
pork, chopped fine; lay on one layer of pork; pepper, and 
cover with pieces of chicken; another layer of pork and 
chicken, etc. Have three h:ird boiled eggs chopped up, 
and added with the chicken. Before laying on the top 
crust, place a few lumps of butter about the top, and add 
water to make as much gravy as desired. 



MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 29 



CHICKEN POT-PIE. 

An old chicken will do for this purpose — in fact, it is 
preferable to a very young one. Singe and draw the 
fowl, cutting it up in joints. Cover with cold water, and 
h.t it siminei-, closely covered, for an hour or more, ac- 
cording to its age. Add three medium sized onions, 
sliced, some sprigs of parsley, salt and pepper, and con- 
linne cooking until the meat is tender and the onions 
done. Dish the bulky pieces such as the back, under part 
ot the bi-east, and first joints. Make a batter with one egg. 
a cup of milk find a teaspoonful of baking powder sifted 
Ihrongh enough flour to make it of proper consistency- 
Drop this into the boiling broth in small spoonsful. 
While the dumplings are cooking, which will take about 
eight minutes, heat to boiling half a pint of milk; pour 
this into the gravy after the rest of the meat and dump- 
lings have been removed, and stir in a lump of butter 
and a large tablespoonful of flour wet with a little cold 
mi'k; boil for a minute and pour over the chicken. The 
dumplings should be served on a separate dish. Bake a 
piece of rich pie-crust the size of a dinner plate; break it 
into as many pieces as there are people to be served, and 
place as a broder around the dish containing this meat. 
This is chicken pie par excellence. If the fowl is old and 
fat, it would be advisable to remove as much as possible 
of the fat and skin, before cooking. 

CHICKEN PIE, A LA SUPREME. 

Cut small pieces as for fricassee; cover the bottom of 
a pie-dish with scallops of veal and ham, placed alter- 
nately; season with mushroom and parsley, pepper and 
enlt: add a little white sauce; then add the pieces of 



30 MEAT AND GAMIC PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 

chicken, arranged in neat order and on these place plov- 
er's or bird's eggs in each cavity; repeat the seasoning 
and the saace; lay a few thin slices of trimmed, dressed 
bam on the top; cover with puff paste, ornament, egg, 
and bake one and a half hours. 

CHICKEN AND HAM PIE. 
Proceed as for chicken pie (2), using veal and ham in 
place of salt pork. 

CHICKEN AND SWEETBKEAD PIE. 

Line a deep pie-dish with a good crust and spread a 
layer of forcemeat on it; put over this alternate layers 
of chicken cut into neat joints and sweetbread cut into 
small pieces, both seasoned with salt and cayenne; 
f-prinkle over each layer a few mushrooms or truffles, 
chopped small; when the dish is nearly full, put some 
slices of hard-boiled eggs over the top, pour a little 
gravy over the meat, cover the dish with the same crust 
as it was lined with, brush over with beaten egg, and 
bake one to one and a half hours in a good oven. Just 
before serving, make a hole in the top and pour in some 
good gravy. 

CHICAGO PIE. 
Cut up sufficient pork in square pieces — fat and lean 
in equal proportions; season with pepper, salt and a 
small quantity of chopped sage-leaves. Finish as usual. 

CHRISTMAS PIE. 

Bone a fowl, a wild duck, pheasant, woodcock, etc.; 
having spread them open on the table, season with 
aromatic herbs, pepper and salt; garnish each with 
forcemeat; sew them up with small twine; place them 



1 



MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 31 

on a sauce-pan with clarified butter, and set them to 
bake in a moderate heat, until they are done through, 
when withdraw from the oven and set to cool. Mean- 
while place the carcasses in a stew-pan, with two calf's 
feet, carrot, celery, onion, a clove of garlic, two bay 
leaves, thyme, cloves, mace and salt; fill up with 4 qts 
water; boil, skim, and set aside to boil gently for 3 
hours; strain, free from grease, and boil down to a thin 
glaze, and keep for use. 

Line a raised pie mould with hot water paste; line 
the inside of the pie with forcemeat; arrange the baked 
fowl, etc. in the centre, placing at the same time layers 
of forcemeat and seasoning, until all the preparation is 
used up; put a cover of paste on top, egg and ornament; 
finish as for Game Pie. 

DARTMOUTH PIE. 

Mince 2 lbs mutton, from which all the fat has been 
cut away; add 1 lb finely shred beef suet, 1 lb well 
washed currants, 4 ozs sugar, salt and nutmeg to taste. 
Make a paste by boiling 2 ozs butter with 4 ozs beef 
suet, and working it into 8 ozs flour. Cover the mixture 
with this paste; bake 1| hours. 

DUCK PIE. 

Previous to putting the duck in the pie-dish, boil it 
about J hour, having first cut off the neck and wings, 
which should be stewed for a few minutes with the 
giblets in a stew-pan containing 2 ozs butter, a bunch 
of herbs, an onion sliced, an anchovy, a blade of mace, 
pepper, salt and cayenne; when the butter has dissolved 
pour in ^ pt boiling water, and stew gently one hour; 
strain and add the mixture to the gravy from the duck. 



32 MEAT AND OA.AIi: Til:; riJ.LlNCiS, PASTIES, ETC 



Cut up the duck neatly, and arrange it in the pie-dish, 
adding more seasoning if required; skim off all fat from 
the gravy, which should be cold, and pour it into the 
dish. Cover with puff paste or any crust desired. 
Bake one hour. 

FAVORITE MEAT PIE. 

Take cold roast meat of any kind, slice it thin, cut it 
rather small, lay it with gravy, sufficiently peppered and 
salted, in a pie-dish. If liked, a small onion may be 
chopped fine and sprinkled over it. Over the meat 
pour a couple of stewed tomatoes, a little more pepper, 
and a thick la^^er of mashed potatoes. Bake slowly in a 
moderate oven till the top is a light brown. 

FIELDFARE PASTIES. 

Take ^ doz birds — fieldfares, snipe, woodcocks, quails 
and young plovers — draw them and put the insides into 
a stew-pan with a little butter, first taking out any grit 
from the gizzards; when steamed enough, take them 
out, and put the birds into the butter to brown lightly; 
remove them, add a little more butter and stir in 3 or 4 
eggs well beaten, with a cup of milk. Spread a layer of 
forcemeat over the bottom of a dish, with a boiled 
sweetbread cut in dice, if obtainable; lay on the birds 
with their trails, seasoning with salt, pepper and lemon 
juice; the rest should be laid upon tliem, and a cover of 
paste over all. Bake, and pour in a little rich gravy, 
when done. 

FIFE PIE. 
Skin a young rabbit and cut into pieces about the size 
of a small egg. Prepare a forcemeat of the liver, par- 



MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 33 

boiled and minceil, some bread crumbs, a little fat 
bacon, and a seasoning of lemon-tbyme, minced parsley, 
nutmeg, pepper and salt; moisten with an egg and make 
into balls. Cat 1 lb bacon into thin slices; free from 
rind, sprinkle with pepper, salt and nutmeg, and pack it 
with the balls, closely into a dish; pour in sufficient 
good gravy and a small glass of white wine; cover with 
puff-paste; bake 1^ hours. 

FRENCH PIE (1). 

Take 1 lb or 2 lbs veal (knuckle or breast); boil 
tender in as little water as possible; when cold, cut 
into squares, season highly with pepper, salt and lemon; 
let it boil slightly. Have two or three hard boiled eggs, 
which cut into slices, some small pieces of bacon and 
dressed sausage. Place part of the eggs, sausage and 
ham at the bottom of a pie-dish, and round the edges; 
fill up with veal and gravy, which when turned out will 
be a jelly. This makes a suitable dish for breakfast, 
lunch or supper. 

FRENCH PIE (2). 

Pass any remains of cold meat, free from fat or 
gristle, through a mincing machine, till finely minced; 
season according to taste and moisten with plenty of 
gravy; have ready some mashed potatoes, and after 
warming the mince in a sauce-pan, turn it out into a 
pie-dish; heap the mashed potatoes well up, spread bits 
of butter on the top, and place in a hot oven till brown. 
Any scraps may be used, the chief point being to mince 
everything well. 

FOWL PIES. 

See Game Pies, etc. 

3 



oi MKAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 

GAME PIE. 

Take pheasants, partridges, woodcocks or snipes, or a 
mixture of some of them, etc. ; bone and cut them up in 
convenient pieces, larding the breast pieces. Line a 
prepared mould with slices of bacon cut as thin as 
possible, and proceed to fill it with the pieces of game, 
truffles, previously cooked in white wine, and mush- 
rooms cooked in lemon juice, filling up the interstices 
with forcemeat (2), being careful to pack the whole 
closely. When taken out of the oven pour in through 
the hole in the crust some hot aspic jelly. The next 
day take off the cover and lay on the top a layer of 
bright aspic chopped up, not too finely. 

To serve; remove the pie from the mould; lay it on a 
clean white napkin; garnish according to fancy with 
parsley, etc. 

GAME AND MACAKONI PIE 

Put J ft) pipe macaroni into a sauce-pan of boiling 
stock, and let it simmer till it is tender, but unbroken. 
Drain, and lay it at the bottom of a deep dish; place on 
it a layer of game (partridges, pheasants or grouse, 
etc.,) cut into neat joints, and stewed until they are 
three parts cooked; a few slices of raw, lean ham should 
be put amongst the game, together with a few chopped 
mushrooms. Season with salt and pepper. Place a 
layer of macaroni on the top, grate over it a liftle 
Parmesan cheese^ and put little lumps of butter here 
and there. Pour some good gravy, mixed with cream 
or new milk, over the whole; cover with a good crust; 
bake about an hour in a moderate oven. Before serv- 
ing add a little more boiling gravy and milk, if required. 



MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 35 

GAME PIE— ENGLISH. 

Trim the best end of the neck of venison, and rub it 
with mace, nntmeg, cayenne and salt; boil down the 
trimmings of venison and the inferior joints of a hare, 
to make gravy. Take the back and thighs of the hare, 
and after boning them, fill with forcemeat, using shallot 
and the raw liver minced. Line a dish with short crust; 
put in the venison and hare, filling up every space with 
forcemeat; add a little of the gravy, put on the cover, 
ornament the top and bake about 2^ hours in a hot 
oven. When venison is not liked, substitute the prime 
joints of another hare. 

GAME PIE— HUNTING. 

Make a stifi short crust for raised pies; bake in a 
moderate oven ; cut into neat and rather small joints, 
one turkey, two pheasants, two partridges, two wood- 
cocks, half a small hare, one grouse, one snipe, and one 
large ox-tongue. Stew them gently till tender; season 
rather highly, put them into the crust, pour over them a 
little of the gravy in which they were stewed, and strew 
on the top some finely chopped stewed mushrooms. 
Put on the lid, and warm the pie in a moderate oven, 
when wanted. 

GAME PIE— PERIGORD (1). 
This celebrated pie, composed of partridges and 
truffles, derives its name from Perigord, where truffles 
are abundant: to m;.l^-e, first line the crust of a raised 
pie with fat bacon ; spread on it a forcemeat made by 
mincing and pounding liver and seasoning in the follow- 
ing proportions: I ft) liver (the partridges' liver and a 
little calf's liver may be used), | lb fat bacon, -J & lean 



36 MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 

ham, 2 shallots, 4 ozs seasoning spices, one or two 
truflfles, and pepper and salt. Stuff the partridges with 
this forcemeat and some truffles; place them on the 
crust, back downwards; fill up the vacant places with 
forcement and bacon; put a slice of bacon on the top; 
cover with paste, and bake 4 hours in a moderate oven. 
When the pie is baked nearly enough, fill up with some 
gravy, made by stewing the trimmings and a little 
isinglass. 

GAME PIE— PERIGORD (2). 
Soak sufficient truffles for two or three hours in fresh 
water, to loosen the earth about them; rinse well and 
scrub them with a hard brush ; peel, mince the small 
and broken ones, and put aside. Truss, as if for boil- 
ing, as many parti'idges as required; bone, lard and 
season with salt, pepper and powdered spice. Make 
some highly seasoned forcemeat; mix with it the minced 
truffles; stuff the birds with the whole truffles and a 
portion of the forcemeat. Line a raised crust with 
slices of bacon, and forcemeat; place the birds in it 
backs downwards; fill the vacant places with forcemeat; 
lay a slice of bacon on top; put on lid, ornament and 
bake. 

GAME PIES. 

Very good pies may be made of game, either cut into 
joints, or, if the birds are small, put in whole. The 
seasoning should be rather high, and it is usual to put a 
beefsteak at the bottom of the dish. Game pies are 
often too much cooked, and thus the flavor is spoilt. A 
little good melted butter, mixed with claret, and a 
soupcon of lemon juice may be poured over the game, 



MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 37 

wlieii it is to be eaten hot. Stewed macaroni is some- 
times substituted for the beefsteak in pies. 

GAME PIES (SMALL). 
Bake some small raised pies with good eatable crust, 
in tin hoops about 3 in. across by 1 in high; paste sides 
and bottom, but not the tops. Fill with tlour before bak- 
ing; when baked, empty the flour out clean. Bone, stuflf 
with forcemeat, and braize in a cloth, any kind of game; 
when done, put on a dish, tighten up the cloth by re- 
tying one end, place another dish on top, and some 
weights on it to press it down. When cold, cut up into 
small dice; fill the pie-cases with a mixture of this 
game and liver foie gras; level the surface, and cover 
over the top with chopped aspic jelly. 

GAME PIE— SMALL BIRDS. 

Season the birds highly with cayenne pepper and salt; 
they may be divided or not. Boil down any trimmings 
for gravy; put this with some good beef gravy, into a 
pie-dish, and lay in the birds with bits of butter over 
them; or a rumpsteak, well seasoned, may be laid in the 
bottom of the pie-dish, with the gravy from the trim- 
mings; cover with puff paste and bake, but do not over- 
do it; if eaten hot, melted butter with claret and 
lemon juice may be poured into it through a funnel; 
but for a cold pie this is not necessary. 

GIBLET PIE. 

Thoroughly clean a set of goose giblets, and put them 
into a pan with 1 pt water, an onion, some black pepper, 
and a bunch of savory herbs; simmer IJ hours; remove 
the giblets, allow them to cool and cut them into small 



38 MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, EJC. 

pieces. Cut up 1 lb rump steak into thin slices, and 
liue the bottom of a pie-dish with a few of them; place 
a layer of giblets on top of them, then cover the giblets 
again with the remaining slices of beef; strain the 
gravy in which the giblets were boiled, and pour it over 
the pie, seasoning with pepper and salt; cover with 
plain crust, and bake in a brisk oven 1^ hours. 

If beefsteak is used, it must be stewed in a separate 
sauce-pan until nearly tender before being put into the 
pie; with rump steak this is not necessary. Chicken, 
cut into neat joints and seasoned with pepper, salt and 
pounded mace, may be used in place of beef. 

A. giblet pie should never be eaten cold. 

GODIVEAU EAISED PIE. 

Fill a raised pie with balls of Godiveau forcemeat, 
mixed with any savory ragout ; pour over the whole a 
rich sauce. To make the forcemeat proceed as follows: 
Take 1 lb of the fillet of veal and 1^ lbs of good beef 
suet; remove the skin and gristle, chop the meat small 
and pound it in a mortar; add salt and pepper, half a 
nutmeg, grated, a spoonful of scalded and minced par- 
eley, and one of chopped onions or chives; add, while 
pounding, two well-beaten eggs and a little water. Take 
-the forcemeat up and put it in a cool place for an hour. 
It should have been so thoroughly pounded that no 
pieces are distinguishable; it should be made in a cool 
place and quickly. 

GOOSE PIE. 

This is made either with one goose, or what is better 
still, two green geese. Braize or stew them, and cut 
each goose into eight pieces; season and put them into 



MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 39 

a good raised pie crust. Or they may be put into a pie- 
di.'-li with a short crust, in the usual way. A good-sized 
piece of butter should be i)ut iuto the dish. 

GOOSE PIE— ENGLISH, 
Is made by boning a goose, turkey, fowl and' pigeon, 
and putting the turkey inside the goose, the fowl inside 
the turkey, and the pigeon inside the fowl. A strong 
raised crust is then fixed j)roperly in form and all are 
put inside it, any vacancies being filled up with pieces 
of ham, tongue, or forcemeat. Clarified butter is poured 
over the whole, the lid put on, the crust brushed over 
with beaten egg, and ornamented. It should be well 
l^ound with three or four folds of buttered paper before 
being put into the oven. 

GOOSE LIVER PASTY. 

Take the livers of two fat geese and cut away the gall 
bag entirely; soak the livers in milk to whiten them. 
Mince very finely IJ ibs veal and J lb fat bacon; mix 
with them 2 ozs. of sardines cleared of skin and bone, 
lemon juice and rind, and chopped capers, all minced 
linely. Melt some butter in a stew-pan, put in the above 
articles, cover closely and steam gently until the meat is 
cooked, but not browned; then stir in 1 gill thick, sour 
cream, vinegar, white wine, pepper, salt, grated nutmeg 
and two well-beaten eggs. Line a pie mould with pastry, 
spread half the mince at the bottom and cut the livers 
in slices and lay them upon it; season with pepper, salt 
and cloves; spread the rest of the mince on top; cover, 
inalce a hole in the top, ornament and bake, but do not 
brown. The next day it inay be put into hot water to 



40 MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 

make it turn out more easily. A few truffles are a great 
improvement. 

GROUSE PIE. (1). 

Line the edges of a pie-dish with good paste; put 1 lb 
rump steak, cut into convenient sized pieces, at the bot- 
tom; lay a couple of grouse on these. If the birds are 
large they should be cut into joints; if small, they may 
be put in whole or in halves. Season rather highly, with 
salt, cayenne and pepper; pour J pt. nicely flavored broth 
over the grouse; cover with a good crust and bake about 
one hour in a moderate oven. If the pie is to be eaten 
hot, a little more boiling gravy, to which has been added 
a little lemon juice and some claret, may be poured 
in before serving. 

The Scotch fashion is to fry the grouse and steak in 
cutlets, preparing the pie as above, and sometimes adding 
stewed mushrooms and hard boiled eggs. 

GROUSE PIE. (2). 
Proceed with grouse as for partridge pie. 

GROUSE PIE. (Scotch). 
Pick and draw two or three young grouse; cut oflf the 
wings and legs; tuck the drumsticks in through a slit 
made under the thighs; singe the birds over a charcoal 
flame; split them in halves; season and fry with butter 
until half done; prepare also some collops of beef, sea- 
son, fry and place them at the bottom of a pie-dish; add 
chopped mushrooms, parsley and shallots, and a table- 
spoonful of Worcester sauce; place the fried halves of 
grouse in neat order on this; add a little more seasoning, 
and some hard boiled yolks of eggs; moisten with suffi- 
cient sauce, gravy or water, and a little salt, to reach up 



MEAT AND QAMD PIE FlLLilXGS, PASTIES, ETC. 41 

to the sides of the pie-dish; cover with puff paste, and 
bake about 1^ hours. 

HAEE PASTY. 

Cut the hare into convenient sized pieces, and cook 
partially in a little gi-avy; spread a layer of forcemeat at 
the bottom of a battered pie-dish; put the pieces of 
hare upon it and the rest of the forcemeat between them ; 
sprinkle with finely minced shallots, chopped paisley, 
thyme, salt and pepper; lay over the whole a few thin 
slices of bacon; pour in ^ pt. blood and ^ pt. of the 
gravy in which the hare was stewed; cover and bake. 
It may be eaten either hot or cold. 

HARE PIE. 

Skin the hare, cut into convenient sized joints; season 
these with pepper and two pounded cloves; fry them in 
hot butter ten or fifteen minutes and put them aside to 
cool. Line the edges of a pie-dish with good crust; 
arrange the hare and some forcemeat in alternate layers; 
cover the whole with thin slices of bacon, and pour over 
it I pt gravy, to which has been added a teaspoonful of 
red currant jelly and a glass of port wine; bake labours 
in a good oven, and serve hot. 

HARE PIE— RAISED. 

Cut a hare, which has hung for a week or two, into 
neat joints and bone it, if practical. When emptying 
it be careful to preserve the blood. Mince finely ^ tb 
each lean veal and fat bacon, pound them in a mortar, 
adding the blood in small quantities while pounding. 
Roll the paste in the proper shape, ^ inch thick; butter 
the mould, press the pastry into it, fill with alternate 



42 MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 

layers of forcemeat and hare; fill the cavities with force- 
meat and jellied gravy; lay two or three slices of bacon 
on the top; put on the pastry cover; brush it over with 
beaten egg; ornament the sides and top; make a hole in 
the centre, and bake for three hours. 

No gravy should be put into this pie until after it is 
baked. It is to be eaten cold. 

HUNTER'S PIE. 
Take 2 lbs of the best end of a leg of mutton; cut it 
into chops, trim these neatly, remove all superfluous fat, 
add pepper and salt; put into a stew-pan with a little 
water and let them stew gently for ^ hour. Boil and 
mash 3 or 4 tbs good potatoes. Line a buttered pie-dish 
with them, put in the meat and gravy, and shape a crust 
over the top, of the remainder of the potatoes. Bake in 
a good oven for | hour. If the pie is not nicely browned, 
hold a red-hot salamander over it for a minute or two. 
Just before serving, make an incision in the middle of 
the crust and pour in a little boiling gravy. 

ITALIAN PIE. 

Cut thin slices of veal from the fillet, and prepare a 
careful seasoning of thyme, parsley, a couple of sage 
leaves, white pepper, cayenne and salt. Cover the 
bottom of the pie-dish with the meat; strew the seasoning 
over and lay thin slices of ham (previously dressed) upon 
the top. Distribute forcemeat balls throughout, and fill 
up the dish with veal, ham and forcemeat balls, and the 
yolks of hard boiled eggs. Before baking, pour in | pt. 
rich white stock, and a large cup of cream when the pie 
is ready for the table. Cover the dish with pufi' paste, 
put an ornament in the centre, which can be removed 



MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 43 

to put in the cream; bake about 1^ houi'S in a quick 
oven. 

KIDNEY PIE. 

Take four veal kidneys and half its bulk in fat with 
each. Cut them into slices \ inch thick, season rather 
highly with salt and cayenne, and add half a teaspoonful 
of powdered mace for the whole. Cut the meat from a 
calf's foot and season it in the same way. Place a layer 
of kidney at the bottom of a pie-dish, strew over it two 
ozs. finely minced ham, and lay on this the slices of calf's 
foot. Repeat until the dish is nearly full. Put the hard 
boiled yolks of six eggs and half dozen forcemeat balls 
at the top. and pour over them \ pt. veal stock, flavored 
with lemon juice. Line the edges of the dish with a 
good crust, caver it with the same, and bake in a mod- 
erate oven. Though forcemeat balls are an improve- 
ment, they may be dispensed with. 

Kidney pies are usually eaten cold. 

LAMB PIE. 
Take about 2 flbs of the neck, breast or loin of lamb; 
(iiit it up into neat pieces and sprinkle over these suffi- 
cient salt, white pepper and minced paisley; put them 
into a pie-dish; take out some of the bones to stew for 
gravy and pour over them half ^ pt. of cold water. Line 
the edges of the dish with good crust, cover it with the 
same and bake in a moderate oven. When the pie is 
sufficiently cooked, pour in a little good stock or meat 
jelly; bake 1^ hours. Lamb pie is usually eaten cold. 

LANCASHIRE RAISED PIE. 
Take 2 lbs meat, (pork is most generally used), cut 
the lean into thin slices, seasoning each with pepper and 



44 MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 

salt. Stew the bones with half pint water, salt and 
pepper, for two hours, strain the gravy and set aside for 
use; when cold, it should be a stiff jelly. Melt over the 
fire in half pint water, about 4 ozs finely shred beef suet, 
with a pinch of salt. Put 1| ft)s flour in a bowl, pour 
the boiling fat and water into the middle of it, and mix 
thoroughly, first with a spoon, and afterwards with the 
hands; knead to a stiff paste; cut off a piece large 
enough to form the lid of the pie; put the rest on the 
table and mould it into the form of a cone; flatten the 
sides with the palm of the hands, or when quite smooth 
press down the top of the cone with one hand, and with 
the other make the sides equally round. Great expedi- 
tion is necessary, as the excellence of the pie depends 
upon its being placed in the oven while still warm. 

Put in the lean meat, strew a little minced fat over 
each layer, and press it closely until the mould is full; 
egg the edges; roll out the cover and place it over the 
pie; make a small hole in the centre, through which the 
gravy can afterwards be put in; ornament with leaves of 
pastry, or according to fancy; brush over with the yolk 
of egg, and bake about 3 hours in a good oven. When 
the pie is done enough, pour a little of the jelly gravy 
(melted) through the hole in the top. 

Lancashire raised pies are much more easily made in 
moulds. Beef suet is better than either butter or lard 
for this pasti-y, but if either of these latter is used, an 
extra ounce will be required for the same quantity of 
flour or water. 

LARK PASTY. 

Take 1 dozen larks, empty them, cut off their heads, 
legs and necks, and put into a saucepan with a few 



MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 45 

trimmings of veal, a sprig of parsley, one of thyme, a 
sliced carrot, and one pint water; let simmer gently 
till the liquid is considerably reduced and will jelly. 
Mince the livers of the larks finely and mix with half 
pound lean veal, half pound sausage meat, four ozs. un- 
smoked bacon, chopped parsley, powdered thyme, white 
pepper and salt; work up half of this forcemeat with a 
little light wine and fill the larks with it. Line a mould 
or pie-dish throughout with a good stiflf crust; put a 
layer of loose mince meat at the bottom, lay the larks 
upon it and fill up with mince meat; place a few slices 
of bacon on top, cover, fasten the edges securely, and 
cut a slit in the middle through which the gravy may 
afterwards be poured; bake, and when suflficiently done 
strain the liquor into it through the hole in the top; 
ornament and let get quite cold before cutting. This 
dish is better to be kept a daj' or two before being eaten. 

LAEK PIE. 

Take a dozen larks, empty them, cut oflf their heads, 
necks and legs; roll them in flour, and fill them with 
forcemeat. Place three or four slices each of bacon and 
lean ham at the bottom of a pie-dish; put the larks 
upon them and strew over them a little pepper, salt, 
parsley, and if required a shallot, cut into small pieces. 
Pour ^ pt weak stock over the whole, line the edges 
with good crust, cover and bake. 

LAEK PIE, A LA MELTON MOWBKAY, 

Cut about 1 ft) veal into small collops and fry them 

with an equal proportion of collops of ham or bacon, 

placing them at the bottom of a prepared pie-dish; fry 

2 doz larks from which the gizzard only has been re- 



46 MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 

moved, by picking it out from under the thigh with the 
point of a knife; season with chopi^ed parsley, truffle 
and shallot, pepper and salt, some mushroom catsup, 
button mushrooms, and a tablespoon of flour; moisten 
with ^ pt gravy or water, stir over the fire until it boils, 
and add the whole to the collops of veal, etc., contained 
in the pie-dish; cover with puff paste, and bake 1^ 

hours. 

LEICESTER PIE. 

Cut 3 tbs pork (fat and lean) into pieces 2 in. long 
and I in. wide; season with pepper, salt and powdered 
sage, and put them aside. Mix a teaspoon of salt with 
1 ft) flour; stir into it with a knife, 4 ozs lard dissolved 
in ^ pt hot water; roll it out; line a greased tin mould 
with part of it; put in the pieces of pork; place the lid 
on top, and fasten the edges securely; bake in a moder- 
ate oven about If hours. The pie must be put into the 
oven when the paste is still warm. 

LEICESTERSHIRE PIE. 
Take 1 ib each cold fat bacon, cold roast beef or pork, 
and cored apples; line the edges of a pie-dish with 
crust made of drippings; fill with the meat and apples 
in alternate layers, seasoning each layer with salt, 
pepper and powdered ginger; pour ^ pt ale over all; 
place the lid on top, and bake 1^ hours in a good oven. 

MELTON MOWBRAY PIES. 

See Veal and Ham Pie. 
See Yorkshire Veal Pie. 
See Yorkshire Hare Pie. 

MICHIGAN PIE. 
Take 2 flbs chops from a neck of mutton; cut them 



MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 47 

short and pare away some of the fat. Peel, core and 
slice about 2 lbs well flavored sour apples. Put a layer 
of them in the bottom of a pie-dish with a little sugar 
and ground allspice; place the chops next, and season 
with salt, pepper and finely chopped onion. Continue 
with alternate layers of apples and meat till all are 
used up. Make an ordinai'y crust, line the edges of the 
dish and cover over the top, adding J pt gravy or water. 
Bake IJ hours in a moderate oven. 

MUTTON PIE (1). 
Trim a neck of mutton as for cutlets, removing the 
superfluous fat; separate the neck into thick cutlets; 
divide the short ribs and scrag end into equal sized 
pieces about 2 inches square; season highly with pepper 
and salt, and place in a stew-pan with enough water to 
cover the meat; set to stew for ^ hour over a slow fire; 
the gravy must now be strained from the meat, freed 
from grease, and poured again into the meat; add six 
onions and eight potatoes; put the lid on the stew-pan, 
and set the whole to stew gently for another ^ hour; 
arrauge the cutlets, etc., neatly round the pie-dish; lift 
the potatoes and onions into the centre without smash- 
ing them; boil down the gravy to the quantity required 
to fill up the pie; sprinkle 2 doz oysters over the sur- 
face; cover the pie with potato-paste, bake for an hour 
and serve a sauce of gravy separately. 

MUTTON PIE (2). 

Make a seasoning of chopped parsley, powdered 

savory herbs, an onion, pepper and salt. Cat from 2 to 

3 tbs neat chops from the loin or neck of mutton, free 

from bone and most of the fat; put them well covered 



48 MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 

with the above seasoning, into a pie-dish. Cut three 
kidneys into halves and each half into two parts; dis- 
tribute them equally amongst the meat; pour in ^ pt 
veal broth or water; bake with a puff or good suet 
paste. A tablespoon of catsup and two of port wine 
may be added to the gravy, with less water. 

MUTTON PIES— SMALL. 

See Mutton Patties. 

OLIVE PIE— BEEF. 

Make a good forcemeat of equal parts of suet, and 
finely grated bread crumbs, with plenty of finely mixed 
parsley, pepper, salt, grated nutmeg and the well beaten 
yolk of an egg. Cut thin slices four inches long and 
two wide from the inside of a fillet of beef; spread a 
layer of forcemeat upon each slice, and roll it up 
securely; place the rolls side by side in a deep pie-dish 
piling them high in the centre; pour ^ pt gravy over 
them; line the edges of the dish with good crust; place 
a cover of the same on the top, and bake about 1^ hours 
in a moderate oven. A little wine and catsup will im- 
prove the gravy. 

OLIVE PIE— VEAL. 

Line the edges of a pie-dish with good puff paste. 
Cut 2 ft)s fillet of veal into slices J in. thick, 4 in. long 
and 2 in. wide. Make a forcemeat with 4 ozs minced 
veal, 4 ozs finely shred suet, 4 ozs grated bread crumbs, 
3 tablespoons chopped parsley, a teaspoon mixed sweet 
herbs, salt, pepper, powdered mace, grated lemon-rind, 
and the yolks of eggs, well beaten. Season the slices of 
veal with pepper and salt; place a slice of fat bacon on 
each, and a little of the forcemeat, and roll them up 



MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 49 

neatly and securely. Make the forcemeat which remains 
into balls; place them amongst the veal olives in a pie- 
dish, pour over them | pt nicely seasoned gravy; line 
the edges of the dish with a good crust; place a cover 
of the same over the top, egg over and bake in a good 
oven. Lemon juice and sherry greatly improve the 
gravy. This pie is good eaten either hot or cold. 

PARTRIDGE PIE. (1). 

The mould being prepared, take 1 ft veal cutlets, cut 
into very thin slices, and with them cover the bottom of 
the pie; add a layer of forcemeat (2), then the pai't- 
ridges, which should be boned, filled with the forcemeat, 
then cut in half and placed on the layer below. Follow 
with a few more slices of veal and forcemeat, and be- 
tween each layer place (if convenient) a truffle or two, 
chopped rather fine. Season the veal and partridges 
before putting them in the crust. Having proceeded 
thus far, put in a little water or broth. If truffles are used, 
and any are left, cut some into pieces about one inch 
long and half inch thick, and place them between each 
layer. TJie mould must be filled. This being so, put on 
a top crust (hot water paste); make a hole in the centre 
to let out the steam, and bake 1^ to 2 hours in a 
moderate oven. When the pie is slightly cool, remove 
the false top and fill the pie up with jelly. 

PARTRIDGE PIE. (2). 
Pluck, draw and singe a brace of young partridges; 
season them inside and out, with salt, cayenne and pow- 
dered mace; cover with this rashers of bacon, and put 
into a stewpan with ^ pt veal stock or water; put on 
the lid and let them simmer ^ hour as gently as possible. 
Spread some forcemeat at the bottom of a pie-dish, take 



50 MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 

oat the birds aad cut them into quarters; lay half the 
bacou which was tied round them npon the forcemeat; 
pack in the partridges and cover with forcemeat and 
bacon; pour in three tablespoons of gravy in which the 
partridges were simmered; line the edges of the dish 
with good pastry and cover with the same; make a hole 
in the centre and bake in a quick oven; before sending 
to the table pour in | pt good gravy slightly flavored 
with lemon juice. 

PATE DE GIBIER. 
Bone four partridges, or two partridges and two 
grouse; cut np a hare; season all with salt and cayenne; 
put inside each partridge a good sized truffle and a por- 
tion of forcemeat; mould the pastry according to the 
pi'oper shape; cover the bottom of the pie with slices of 
fat bacon; place upon this, half the hare with forcemeat, 
then put in the partridges, etc, two with their breasts 
upwards and two with their breasts downwards; place 
the remainder of the hare and forcemeat upon these, 
with a good slice of fat bacon and a bay leaf on top; 
cover with pastry, ornament and bake; when done and 
almost cold, pour into it through a hole in the centre \ 
pt dissolved gravy-jelly, made by stewing the bones in 
water and mixing the stock with a little gelatine. 

PATE DE FOIS GRAS— IMITATION. 

Take the livers from three fine fat geese, remove the 
gall bladders carefully, and lay the livers in milk for six 
or eight hours to whiten them; cut them in halves and 
put these halves aside for forcemeat. Sort, wash, scrub 
and peel | lb truffles, carefully preserving the cuttings; 
slice a third of them into narrow strips like lardoona 



MEAT AND aAML I'll:: FILLINGS, I'ASTliiS, ETC. 



and stick them into the remainder of the livers | inch 
apart; sprinkle over them pepper, salt and spice, and 
put in a cool place until the forcemeat is prepared. 
Cover the bottom of the pie with thin rashers of ham, 
fat and lean together; spread evenly on these, part of the 
forcemeat, then put in the three livers with the slices of 
truffles stuck in them, and afterwards forcemeat; inter- 
sperse amongst the contents of the pie the remainder of 
the truffles and cover the whole with two or three more 
slices of ham or bacon; cover with pastry, ornament, 
egg and bake. 

PERIGOKD PIE. 
See Game Pie — Perigord. 

PHEASANT PIE. 
After boning a large bird, partly fill with fillets of 
veal and ham, cut in about \ in squares, and forcemeat, 
in equal proportions. The bird may now be put into the 
mould whole, or it may be cut into halves or quarters, 
afterwards filling up with jelly. 

PICNIC PIE. (1). 
Butter a deep pie-dish ; quarter three bard boiled eggs 
and lay round the bottom to form a wreath, ornamenting 
the same with chopped parsley and strips of boiled 
tongue, to form a star. Have ready a par-boiled chicken, 
finely minced and highly flavored with mace, mushrooms, 
pepper, salt and chopped herbs. Put in layers of this, 
then strips of bacon, then chicken, till the dish is nearly 
full, and a good quantity of strong, clear, well-flavored 
jelly (made from chicken bones); put crust of butter 
and flour over whole. Bake IJ hours and turn out. 



52 MEAT AND GAME flE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 



PICNIC PIE. (2) 

Boned lereret, etc., and three boned pigeons. Force- 
meat balls of pounded chicken, flavored with herbs, salt, 
butter, three hard boiled eggs and truffles. All the 
above to be put in layers in a standing crust, and cov- 
ered with aspic jelly. 

PIE OP SMALL BIRDS. 
The birds intended for this pie should be stuffed with 
the following preparation: Soak the crumbs of a French 
roll in a little milk; put it into a stewpan with 2 ozs 
butter, a little grated lemon peel, shallot, chopped parsley, 
nutmeg, pepper, salt, a pinch of aromatic herbs, and 
three yolks of eggs; stir over the fire until it becomes a 
compact paste, and use it to fill the insides of the birds. 
Line the bottom of the pie-dish with fried collops of 
beef and place thereon the birds in neat order; pour 
some fine herb sauce over these; add hard boiled yolks 
of eggs; cover with puff-paste; bake IJ hours. 

PIGEON PIE. (1). 
Having lined the mould, cover the bottom with about 
1 ft) rump steak, cut in thin slices and well beaten. 
Bone and stuff with forcemeat as many pigeons as may 
be required; fill with jelly. It is usual to add two or 
three hard boiled eggs, cut in quarters. 

PIGEON PIE. (2). 
After the bird has been thoroughly washed inside and 
out, and dried, fill it with a highly-seasoned and very 
savory forcemeat. Rub the inside with a compound of 
pepper, ground allspice, one pounded clove, and about 
the same weight of cinnamon, nutmeg and grated lemon 



MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 53 



peel. Put into a stew-pan one teacupful of lemon juice, 
one of orange juice, and one of port; four or five sprigs 
of parsley, and the same of sweet marjoram and thyme. 
Let this commence to boil, then put in the bird, and 
iillow it to stew very slowly for nearly an hour. Keep 
the pan closed the whole time, and send to table as hot 
as possible, garnished with slices of lemon and red 
cairant jelly, or pieces of cold aspic. 

PLOVER PIE. 

Pluck, draw and skin three plovers, and truss them 
as for roasting. Lay ^ lb rump steak, cut into conve- 
nient sized pieces, at the bottom of a moderate sized 
pie-dish, seasoning highly with pepper and salt; lay the 
birds upon them, and beside each bird place the yolk of 
a hard boiled egg. Clean one dozen mushrooms, cut 
the stalks off, and lay them at the top of the pie; pour 
in -^ pt good brown gravy. Line the edges of the dish 
with puff-paste, and finish as usual. 

PORK AND APPLE PIE. 

Cut a sufficient quantity of pork chops (fi'ee from fat) 
into three or four pieces each, leaving the bone attached 
to the meat; roll in flour and season with salt, pepper 
and allspice; peel, quarter, core and slice apples, in 
quantity and bulk about half that of the pork; invert 
a cup of cider or stock at the bottom of the pie-dish. 
At the bottom put a layer of pork, then apples, so on, 
finishing with sliced apples at the top. Pour in a small 
cupful of stock or cider; cover with a good solid crust. 

PORK PIE. 

Take the knuckle end of a leg of young pork, say 4 lbs 



54 MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 

or 5 lbs; take the meat off the bone; cut into thin slices, 
and season. Be careful not to put in too much fat. 

Make the jelly by boiling the bones, skin and trim-- 
mings, without fat; season with pepper, allspice, salt, 
two small onions, and two or three leaves of sage. Both 
pie and jelly should be slightly warmed on filling in the 
jelly. 

PORK PIES (1). 

Pork pies are generally made of the trimmings taken 
from a hog when it is cut up; make and shape the pies 
according to directions below; the pies must be moulded 
while the paste is warm, and are more easily made with 
a mould. (If a mould is not at hand, the pies may be 
moulded in a warmed jelly pot). Cut the meat into 
small pieces, keeping the fat and lean separate; season 
with salt, pepper, finely shred sage leaves, (or powdered 
sage), and cayenne. Pack the fat and lean closely into 
the pie in alternate layers until it is filled; put on the 
cover, press and pinch the edges and ornament; brush 
over with a well-beaten egg, and bake in a slow oven, as 
the meat is solid and requires to be cooked through. 
Neither water nor bone should be put into pork pies, 
and the outside pieces will be hard unless they are cut 
small and pressed closely togethei*. The bones and 
trimmings of the pork may be stewed to make gravy, 
which should be boiled until it will jelly when cold, 
and when this has been nicely flavored, a little may be 
poured into the pie after it is baked, through an open- 
ing made in the top. When pies are made small they 
require a quicker oven than large ones. 

Special Pastry for Pork Pies. — Put J ft> finely shred 
beef suet, (or 5 ozs lard, or ^ lb mutton suet), and 1 oz 



MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 55 

fresh butter into a sauce pan with i pt boiling water and 
a pinch of salt; stir the mixtare until the fiit is dissolved, 
and pour it boiling hot into H tbs flour; knead to a stiff 
paste, adding more water if required; shape the dough 
and get it into the oven while it is warm. If the pie is 
to be baked in a mould, laj a piece of the proper shape 
in the bottom; press long pieces in the sides, and fasten 
them to the top and bottom with white of egg. If a 
mould is not to be used, cut off as much pastry as will 
make the cover, and wrap it up in a cloth to keep warm; 
mould the rest with both hands into the shape of a cone, 
making the sides firm and smooth; press the top down 
with the knuckles of the right hand, and with the left 
press the outside closely to keep it firm and smooth, 
keeping the walls equally thick in every part; fill the 
pie, put on the cover, pinch the edges, fasten securely 
with the white of egg, ornament, egg over and bake in a 
slow oven if the pie is large, in a quicker oven if it be 
small. 

POEK PIES. (2). 

14 lbs flour. 4^ tbs lard. 

2 0Z8 salt. 16 tbs pork, (free from bone 

Seasoning, 3 ozs pepper and and gristle.) 
4 ozs salt. 

Sift the flour with 2 ounces of salt, four and a half 
pounds of lard; rub half of it in the flour, making a 
bay; the other half, put in a pan with three and a half 
pints of water; place it on the stove; when it boils pour 
into the bay, and mix at once with spatula, till the flour 
is well in, then finish with the hand ; spread it out on 
the stone to cool a short time, then put it all together; 
weigh off pieces for the pies, and mould them round. 



56 MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 

Suppose for a four-pound pie, one and three-quartei-s of 
a pound; or two-pound pie, one pound of paste; one- 
pound pie, half poand, and so on for all sizes. When 
moulded round knock them out, so that they are similar 
in shape to a cocked hat, flattened thicker in the middle 
than at the edge. Allow them to lie on the stone till 
they are comparatively stiff, but not too much so; 
then raising them, some by means of blocks, some by 
hoops: For a four-pound pie, an oval or elliptic 
hoop, its transverse or longest diameter eight 
inches, its conjugate or shortest diameter six inches 
wide and five inches high: A two-pound pie, a round 
hoop five inches in diameter, four high; push the thickest 
part of the piece of paste, that has been knocked out 
and laid by to stiffen, down the centre of the hoop to 
form a bottom, drawing it up the sides gradually, so as 
to be thinnest at the top. The size of the hoops can, of 
course, be regulated according to the pie required. 

The meat required for the above would be sixteen 
pounds free from bone, also taking out what skiii and 
gristle may be in it, and cutting it up fine in a meat 
machine; when cut mix it with sis ounces of seasoning, 
with a quart of water, putting two pounds of meat in 
the four-pound pie, one in the two-pound, etc. When 
filled, the lid can be cut from the paste that is over, 
with the hoops in which they were raised, and .placed on 
the pies, wetting the edges; afterwards trimming them, 
washing them down with egg, and decorating with 
fancy leaves and roses cut from the paste. The four- 
pound pie would require about two hours' baking in a 
nice oven, and the two pound, about au hour and a 
quarter, with either the hoops or paper round them. 



I 



MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 57 

PORK PIES. (Small). 

4 ft>s flour. 1 ft) butter. 

1 tb mutton suet. Salt and pepper to taste. 

8 lbs neck of pork. A little powdered sage. 

Dry the flour well, mince the suet, and put them with 
the butter into a sauce-pan, to be made hot, adding a 
little salt. When melted, mix it up into a stiff paste 
and put it before the fire with a cloth over it until ready 
to make up. Chop the pork into small pieces, season 
with white pepper, salt and powdered sage; divide the 
paste into rather small pieces, raise it in a round or oval 
form, fill with the meat, and bake in a brisk oven. 

POULARDE PIE. 

See Capon Raised Pie. 

PRAIRIE HEN PIE. 
Choose two plump birds, pluck, draw and wipe them; 
cut off the legs at the first joint, and remove the heads ; 
season them inside with pepper, salt, butter and minced 
parsley, mixed together. Line a pie-dish with slices of 
ham, and proceed as for game pie, using good beef 
stock. 

RABBIT PIE. 

Cut a young rabbit into neat joints, lay them in luke- 
warm water for ^ hour, then drain and dry. Cut i ft) 
streaky bacon into strips, and | ft> lean veal into inch 
squai-es. Line the edges of a pie-dish with good puff 
paste; put the veal into the pie, then the rabbit, and 
lastly the bacon; intersperse the contents with force- 
meat balls and hard boiled eggs, cut into quarters 
lengthwise; season each layer with savory herbs; 



MEAT AND GAMK PIK FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 



moisten the whole with stock or water, but do not 
entirely cover the meat; finish as usual. 

Truffles or mushrooms and port wine mixed with 
some good gravy, may be poured into the pie through a 
hole in the top, when it is taken from the oven. 

R4BBIT PIE— RAISED. 

Take the meat from a fine young rabbit, cut it into 
small pieces, and season with salt, pepper and grated 
nutmpg. Cut I ft) fat bacon into dice. Pack tightly in 
the mould the pieces of meat and bacon, interspersing 
aiiongst them the yolks of 3 or 4 hard boiled eggs, cut 
into quarters lengthwise; pour over all a little tomato 
sauce, or a spoonful or two of good gravy, which will 
jelly when cold. 

ROOK PIE. 

Skin and di'aw ^ doz young rooks; cut out the back- 
bones; season with salt and pepper; put them in a deep 
dish with ^ pt water; lay some bits of butter over them; 
cover the dish with a tolerably thick crust. Let the pie 
be well baked. Rooks require long stewing, or they 
will not be tender. The breasts are the only part of the 
birds which are really worth using, and when the other 
portions are put into the dish, care should be taken lo 
cut out the spine and the llesh near it, to the width of 
I in., or the pie will have a bitter taste. 

RUxMP-STE.lK PIE (1). 
Take about 3 lbs rump-steak, the under cut being the 
best; cut in thin slices and beat; season and fill mould 
with alternate layers of meat, forcemeat, a few button 
mushrooms, and three hard boiled eggs, cut in slices. 
Fill the pie bel'oie it gets cold, with a jelly made with 



MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC, 59 

1 ft) beef gravy aud 2 ozs gelatine, seasoned with pepper, 
mace, catsup and salt. 

RUMP-STEAK PIE (2). 
Take 2 flbs ramp-steak and cut them into small 
collo^'s; season with minced parsley, pepper and salt; 
dust with flour and lay them around the prepared 
mould; fill with alternate layer of potatoes, thinly 
sliced, and meat. Finish and bake. 

SAVORY PIE. 
Butter a pie dish very thickly, and cover the bottom 
with a layer of chopped mushrooms; place upon them 

2 ozs tapioca soaked for 10 minutes in 4 pt water; 
sprinkle over an onion and three sage leaves chopped 
tine; add 3 hard boiled eggs, chopped small, and season 
with salt and pepper; lay bits of butter on the surface; 
cover and bake. 

SEA PIE. 

This is made of any scraps of meat, properly seasoned. 
SHEEP'S HEAD PIE. 

Scald, clean and boil a sheap's head, also some feet; 
cut off the meat in neat pieces, packing them closely in a 
pie-dish; season with salt, pepper aud finely minced 
onion; lay bits of butter upon them and pour over a 
little of the liquor in which the head and feet were 
boiled. Cover the dish with pastry and bake till done. 
When cold, take off the crust, and serve it cut into thin 
slices, garnished with parsley. 

This makes a nice breakfast or luncheon dish. 

SNIPE PIE. 

Parboil the birds in bouillon and a little white wine, 



60 MEAT AND GAME IM K FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 



seasoned with a grated onion, pepper, salt and nutmeg. 
Line a dish with forcemeat; put in the birds with a 
little of the soup, and small pieces of butter; cover 
with a thick layer of forcemeat; finish and serve with 
supreme or other sauce. 

SQUAB PIE. 

This is generally made of mutton. Take a deep dish 
and fill it with layers of mutton chops, apples cut as for 
other pies, and finely shred onions; season the layers 
with pepper and salt, and sweeten the apples with sugar; 
cover with a thick crust and bake 2 to 3 hours. 

SWEETBREADS PIE. 

Take two or more fresh sweetbreads; soak, blanch and 
cool then; cut each one into three pieces, and simmer ^ 
hour in white stock with about 2 doz mushrooms. Lay 
them in a dish, put the mushrooms among them and 
also 6 or 8 forcemeat balls, the green tips of asparagus, 
and the hard boiled yolks of eggs. Thicken the gravy 
with white thickening, add pepper and salt, and pour 
over the meat. Lay slices of fat bacon on the top of the 
meat, cover with good pastry, and bake in a moderate 
oven. 

Ox palates are often used in connection with sweet- 
breads, in making the above pie. 

SWISS PIE. 
Cut 3 ft)S rump steak in moderate pieces, and split | 
doz mutton kidneys; put both on the fire with enough 
water to cover them, with an onion cut in small rings, 
and seasoned with pepper and salt. Have some potatoes 
ready boiled, but not too miuh, cut ihem in quarters, 
brown them and put round the dish in rows on the top of 
the meat. 



MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. Gl 

A pretty way of dishing this, is to put it in a game 
pie-dish. 

TONGUE PIE. 

Use equal parts of cold tongue and cold poultry or 
roast pork; season and place them in layers; add suffi- 
cient cold gravy to moisten the meat. 

TRIPE PIE. 

Tripe which is to be used for a pie should be stewed 
and allowed to jelly in the liquor in which it was boiled. 
Line the inside of a pie-dish with good pastry; put a 
slice of tender steak or a little undressed ham at the bot- 
tom of the dish; place upon this the tripe with the jel- 
lied gravy adhering to it; season with pepper and salt; 
place pieces of butter on the meat, and pour in two or 
three spoonsful of good brown gravy. Cover with a 
good crust and bake. 

UNION LEAGUE PIE. 

Take thin slices from a calf's head when cold, and 
some of the brains, pieces of cold lamb, pickled tongue, 
a few slices of bacon, and some hard-boiled eggs cut 
neatly into rings; with these fill a pie-dish. Season 
with pepper, salt and cayenne; arrange the meat in 
layers; see that all is well seasoned; fill up the dish with 
a rich gravy. Bake about an hour in a slow oven, with 
a cover of flour and water paste, and remove when 
cold. The pie must then be turned out on a dish. Gar- 
nish with parsley and pickled eggs, sliced. 

VEAL PIES. 
Any part of lean veal free from fat and bone may be 
used for a pie; the loin and the best end of the neck are 



62 MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 



excellent for the purpose, when the bone and the greater 
part of the fat are removed; slices from the fillet are 
also very good. The knuckle, part of the leg, the breast, 
and the shoulder may also be used, but they should be 
partially stewed before being put into the pie, to render 
tbem tender. 

Veal pies may be made plain or rich, according to 
choice. Ham or bacon, forcemeat balls, hard-boiled 
eggs, sweetbreads, sausage, oysters, potatoes, mush- 
rooms, truffles, etc., may all be introduced. If ham or 
bacon has been cured with saltpetre, there is danger it 
will make the veal red, and so spoil the appearance of 
the pie; on this account dressed ham or bacon is to be 
preferred. The following recipes for veal pies may be 
varied to suit convenience and taste. 

VEAL AND HAM PIE. 
Cut 1-| ft)s veal-cutlets into small collops ; also | ft> ham 
or streaky bacon; chop a few mushrooms, some parsley 
and shallot, and fry these with 1 oz butter, in a small 
stewpan; season with pepper and salt; add a little cat- 
sup, a tablespoon of flour and | pt gravy or water: Stir 
this sauce over the fire till it boils, then add the juice of 
half a lemon, and use it to mix with the veal and ham, 
as they are placed in alternate layers in the pie-dish; 
place hard-boiled yolks of eggs on the surface, cover 
with puff-paste; when the pie is done, pour in a little 

gravy. 

VEAL PIE. 

Put a piece of the knuckle of veal into a stewpan, 
cover with water, let it boil up, and simmer till tender; 
when cold, divide into small pieces. Butter a plain 
round or oval shape, and cover the bottom with the 



MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 63 

yolks and whites of hard-boiled eggs, neatly arranged; 
place over these pieces of the meat and gristle, seasoning 
with salt, peppei', pounded mace and grated lemon-peel ; 
pour in a little of the gravy in which the meat was 
boiled, (which ought to form a strong jelly) and fill the 
dish with the meat, hard-boiled eggs, and sliced beet- 
root, so arranged that the color will contrast prettily: 
pour in as much gravy as will cover the ingredients, 
and bake in a good oven. When quite cold, turn it out; 
it will have a glazed appearance. 

VEAL PIE— RAISED. 

Take 1| tbs lean veal and 1 lb ham; cut three parts of 
the veal into neat pieces and season with pepper and 
chopped mushrooms; mince the remainder of the veal 
with an equal quantity of fat bacon; pound the mixture 
in a mortal', and season with salt and cayenne, a smaM 
piece of onion; herbs and spices may be added to the 
forcemeat if liked. Line a mould with pastry; cover 
the bottom with forcemeat, and fill the pie with alternate 
layers of thinly sliced ham, veal and forcemeat. Lay thin 
slices of fat bacon on the top of the meat, put a bay-leaf 
on that, finish and bake. Half an hour after the pie is 
taken from the oven, pour into it through a pointed 
strainer placed in the hole in the top, a little highly sea- 
soned gravy, which will jelly when cold. 

The jelly maybe made by stewing a couple of hours, a 
calf's foot and the bones and trimmings of the veal, 
with an onion stuck with two cloves, a small bunch of 
herbs, pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, in stock or water. 
If liked, the pieces of veal in the pie nia}' be larded. 

VEAL PIES -"RAISED, (Small). 
Take the lean part of the best end of a neck of veal, 



G4 MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 

with half its weight of thinly sliced bacon; divide the 
meat into inch squares. Put the bones and trimmings 
of the meat into a sacepan, cover with water, add flavor- 
ing ingredients, and stew tlie liquor until it is strong 
enough to jelly when cold. Put the veal into a stewpan, 
cover with the strained stock, and add about 1 gill 
cream, and a few mushrooms if desired; simmer gently 
for an hour, then let it get cold. Line some small pate 
moulds; fill with the preparation, cover and bake till 
done. Serve cold. 

VEAL PIE— Windsor. 

Fill a dish with alternate layers of lean veal, cut in 
slices -^ in. thick, and thin slices of lean ham; season 
each layer with powdered mace and white peppei*. Place 
a dish with a weight over the meat and press it for ^ 
hour; pour upon it strong veal gravy, as much as will 
jelly and cover it, when cold; add a slice of fresh butter; 
cover with good pastry and bake. 

VENISON AND HARE PIE. 

Take the flesh in onejpiece from a neck of venison and 
cut it to the length of the pie-dish; season with salt, 
cayenne and pounded mace. Divide the hare into pieces 
not larger than an egg; take out the bones and fill the 
c.ivities with good forcemeat. Line the edges of a pie- 
dish with good pastry; lay the venison in the centre and 
arrange the pieces of hare closely around it; fill up the 
empty space with forcemeat and lay 2 or 3 spoonsful of 
jellied gravy on top. Cover, ornament and bake. When 
done enough pour in, through a pointed strainer, a little 
additional gravy, made of the trimmings of the hare and 
venison, properly seasoned. 



MEAT AND GAMK PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 65 

VEAL LIVEE PATE. 

Mix separately, and afterwards together, 1 tb call's 
liver aud 10 ozs. fat bacon; season with pepper, salt and 
pounded mace; add chopped parsle}^ 2 ozs. finel^'-minced 
lean ham, and au ouicn, sliced and browned in fat; mix 
thoroughly, and mix with them first the beaten yolks, 
and afterwards the well-whisked whites, of two eggs; 
line a mould with thin slices of fat bacon and put in the 
mince; place slices of bacon on the top and bake gradu- 
ally; let get cold and turn it upon a dish; garnish with 
parsley. 

VENISON PASTY. 

This is generally made of the portions of the venison 
which do not roast very well, such as the neck, breast and 
shouldei's. The pasty should properly contain venison 
only. Wash the venison in vinegar, sprinkle sugar upon 
it and hang in a cool, airy place for, say, ten days; when 
used, sponge it over with lukewarm water and dry with 
a soft cloth; bone, trim away all the skin and cut into 
pieces 2 in. square. Line a baking dish entirely with 
good stiff paste (see below); put in the pieces of meat, 
fat and lean together, or if there is not fat enough add a 
thin slice of the firm fat of the loin or neck of mutton; 
season with pepper and salt; put over -^ lb butter and 
pour in \ pt. stock or water; cover with thick pastry, 
ornament, make an opening in the centre, and lay a sheet 
of letter paper over it; bake. While baking put the 
bones and trimmings into a stew-pan with powdered 
mace, salt, pepper and 3 pts. of water; simmer till strong 
and pleasantly flavored and reduced to less than half the 
quantity; strain, let cool and remove the fat. When the 
pie -s done enough heat the gravy with a little lemon- 



G6 MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 

juice and port; pour it into the pie so that the gravy 
will penetrate all parts. Serve hot or cold. If the un- 
dercrust is omitted the pie will not need to bake as long. 
Unless the pastry is thick it will be burnt up before the 
meat is none enough. The venison is often partially 
slewed before being put into the pie. 

The paltry forvenii^on pasti/ should be good and short, 
but stiff. For a rich pasty it may be made in the propor- 
tion of 10 ozs. butter to 1 lb. flour, and worked to a smooth, 
stiff paste with 2 eggs and lukewarm water. For an ordi- 
nary pasty, rub .3 or 4 ozs. butter into 1 ft), flour, and 
work to a smooth, stiff paste with a beaten egg and luke- 
warm water. 

VENISON PIE. 

Proceed with venison alone as, for Venison and Hare 
Pie. 

WASHINGTON PIE. 

Line a buttered oblong tin mould with short paste; 
fill the pie with alternate slices of pork, bacon and 
apples; season between each layer with chopped onion, 
pepper and salt, and chopped sage-leaves; pour in good 
gravy; cover the top with paste; egg it over and bake 
1^ hours. 

WOODCOCK PIE. 

Line the edges of a dish with good puflf-paste; place 
at the bottom, a slice of thin veal well seasoned with 
pepper, salt and pounded mace; place on this a slice of 
thin lean ham. Pluck four woodcocks carefully, so as 
uot to injure the tender flesh; do not open them, but 
season with salt, pepper and mace, covering them witli 
layers of bacon; pack them closely into the dish and (ill 



MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 67 

up the empty space with bard-boiled plover's or hen's 
eggs; pour over them 1 pt. beef gravy, so strong that it 
will jelly vpheu cold; cover with pastry, ornament and 
finish as usual. It should be eaten cold. 

WOODCOCK PIE— RAISED (COLD). 

Bone four woodcocks; put the bones and trimmings 
into a saucepan with a shallot, a small onion and a sprig 
of thyme; cover with stock and let simmer till the gravy 
is strong and good. Remove the gizzard from the trail, 
pound and mix it with forcemeat. Place the woodcocks, 
skin downward, open upon a board; spread over them a 
layer of forcemeat; then 2 or 3 sliced truffles and another 
layer of forcemeat; fold the skin over and restoi'e the birds 
to something of their original shape. Line a pie-mould 
with pastry; put a layer of forcemeat at the bottom; place 
two woodcocks over this, covering them with a few slices 
of truffles and a thin layer of forcemeat; put in the other 
two woodcocks with a little more truffles and another layer 
of forcemeat; place over all some thin slices of bacon. 
Cover and finish. Half an hour after it has been taken 
from the oven, pour in a little of the gravy from the 
bones, which should be strong enough to form a jelly 
when cold. 

WOODCOCK PIE— RAISED (HOT). 

Divide four woodcocks into quarters; line a pie-mould 
with pastry and fill it with alternate layers of forcemeat 
and pieces of woodcock; cover and bake; take out of 
oven and pour into it some good brown sauce made of 
the trimmings of the woodcock stewed in beef gravy. 
Serve hot upon a dish covered with a napkin. If liked 
a hollow place may be left in the centre of the pie, into 



GS MEAT AND OAMK PIE FILLINGS, PASTIES, ETC. 

which a piece of the crumb of bread, covered with fat 
b.'.con, may be placed whilst the pie is being baked; when 
done euoaghthis hollow maybe filled with sliced truffles 
mixed in browu sauce. 

YALE PIE. 

Put 3 lbs. or 4 lbs. steak, seasoned with pepper and 
s:i!t, into a dish. Cut in pieces two chickens; lay them 
on the steak and over them put 1 doz. oysters without 
the liquor; add ^ doz. hard-boiled eggs; pour in ^ pt. 
strong ale and cover with fresh mushrooms and ^ lb. 
calf's-foot jelly; cover with paste and bake in a brisk 
oven. 

YORKSHIRE HARE PIE. 

Remove all the flesh from a hare in as large pieces as 
possible — that is, take out the fillets, remove the should- 
ers and hind quarters, and bone them; cut all the meat 
into collops about \ in. thick and set them aside on a 
plate; with the carcass and trimmings and a calf's foot 
make some well-seasoned aspic jelly; prepare also some 
thin slices of ham and hard-boiled eggs, and finish as 
Yorkshire veal pie, using aromatic seasoning. These 
pies may be varied by using pork, veal, mutton, venison, 
poultry or any kind of game, instead of veal or hare. 

YORKSHIRE PIE. 
Bone a goose, or hare, two grouse and four snipes; 
spread them out on the table, season with aromatic 
spices, pepper and salt; fill them with pork-sausage 
meat; sew them up with string; bake them until done; 
proceed with them in the usual way, using thick slices 
of cooked ham and sausage meat in place of forcemeat. 
When the pie is baked, pour in the reduced stock from 



MEAT AND GAME PIE FILLINaS, PASTIES, ETC. 69 

the bones; and when cold the next day, garnish the top 
with aspic jelly. 

YOEKSHIRE VEAL PIE. 

I ft) thin slices ham or strea- 1^ lbs. veal collops, 
ky bacou (previously par- 4 hard-boiled eggs, 
boiled). Sufficient aspic jelly. 

Pour a thin layer of aspic jelly at the bottom of a pie- 
dish, and upon this place in neat circles a layer of veal 
collops; season with pepper and salt, chopped parsley 
and shallot; then put a layer of ham, and upon this a 
layer of hard-boiled eggs cut in slices; repeat the sea- 
soning and aspic jelly, and so on, until the whole of the 
ingredients are used up. Cover the pie-dish with stifif 
flour and water paste; bake on a baking sheet contain- 
ing a little water to prevent the possibility of the aspic 
jelly contained in the pie from being dried up. Bake 1\ 
hours in a moderate oven; when done, set in a cold place 
till the next clay; it may then be turned out whole on a 
dish, garnished with fresh parsley. 



CHAPTER V. 
FISH PIES. 

Salmon, trout, codfish, turbot, haddock, mackerel, etc., 
— indeed any kind of fish tolerably free from small bones, 
are adapted to this purpose. Whichever kind is intended 
for the pie should be freed from skin and bone, etc., and 
cut into large scollops; a mould should be lined with 
paste, a thin layer of Bechamel sauce spread over the bot- 
tom, and over this place a close layer of scollops of fish; 
season with chopped mushrooms, parsley and shallot, 
fillets of anchovies, capers, nutmeg, pepper and salt, and 
slices of hard-boiled eggs; repeat the sauce, fish, etc., 
until the pie is filled up; cover in the usual manner; 
bake 1^ hours and serve. 

From 2 lbs. to 3 lbs. of fish is the quantity supposed 
to be used in reference to above recipe. 

In place of the Bechamel sauce, forcemeat may be 
used or oysters and bread crumbs; and the seasoning 
may be varied according to taste. 

Fish pies may be served with any sauce desired, sep- 
arately in a boat. 

CARP PIE. 

Line the edges of a pie-dish with a good light crust; 
stuff a medium-sized carp with oyster forcemeat; sew it 
up to prevent this escaping, a.nd lay it in the middle of 
the dish; put round it pieces of eel about 1| in. long, 
which have been already partly cooked. Take | pt. of 



FISH PIES. 71 



the liquor in which the eel was stewed; put it with a gill 
of port, a little salt and cayenne, an onion stuck with 
cloves, and a blade of mace; let these simmer gently till 
reduced to ^ pt. gravy, which may be thickened with 
flour and butter; pour this over the fish; cover with 
crust and bake. 

COD PIE. 

Steep over night the middle cut of a small cod, in salt 
and water; wash well and season with cayenne, pepper 
aud salt. Pat a little good stock or broth into a pie-dish, 
with small pieces of butter; place the fish in the dish; 
cover with paste and bake. Serve with sauce made as 
follows: -J pt. cream, spoonful of broth, a little grated 
demon peel, and a small piece of roux. A.low it simply 
to come to a boil, and when the pie is baked enough, 
raise the crust and pour the same over the the fish. 

COD PIE— FRESH. 

Fill a deep pie-dish three parts full, with pieces of fresh 
cod about 2 inches square; season with salt, cayenne 
aud grated nutmeg; lay 2 dozen oysters on the top, with 
bits of butter over them; cover with a good crust and 
bake. 

COD PIE— SALT. 

After soaking the cod for 12 hours, simmer J hour; 
cut into pieces about 2 inches square. Place a layer of 
sliced potatoes, half boiled at the bottom of a pie-dish, 
then a layer of fish, and one of sliced onions, partly boiled; 
season each layer with pepper and pounded mace (no 
salt). Melt some butter and mix with it mustard, 
catsup, and essence of anchovies; pour this over the pie; 
cover; balie. If preferred, mashed potatoes may be spread 
on top of the pie, in place of the pastry. 



72 FISH PIES. 

CEAB PIE. 

Boil a moderate-sized crab, and, when it is done, pick 
out the meat, and mix with it a little butter, pepper and 
salt, and if too liquid, bread crumbs, sufficient to give it 
the proper consistency, after adding three spoonsful of 
vinegar. Clean out the shell, and place the mixture in 
it, covering it slightly with bread crumbs; heat it before 
the fire or in the oven; brown it with a salamander, 
sprinkle a little cayenne over it, and it will be ready for 
serving. 

EEL PIE (1). 

Wash and skin 1 tb. eels; cut them into 2 in length; 
line the bottom of a pie-dish with a slight layer of force- 
meat, on the top of which place the eels, with a seasoning 
of chopped parsley, one shallot, grated nutmeg, the juice 
of half a lemon, and pepper and salt to taste; pour over 
it some strong gravy. Bake, and when sufficiently done, 
heat ^ pt. bechamel sauce, and pour into the pie, before 
serving. Oysters may be used in place of forcemeat. 

EEL PIE (2). 

Having skinned and cleaned 2 lbs. large sized eels, di- 
vide them into pieces 2 or 3 in. long. Cut off the heads, 
tails and fins, and boil them with lemon peel, a shallot, a 
blade of mace, and as much veal or mutton broth as will 
cover the eels in the pie-dish; thicken \^ith butter ard 
flour, and add the juice of half a lemon ; when strained and 
cool, turn the broth into the pie-dish over the eelp, 
sprinkle with pepper, salt and chopped parsley, and cover 
with puff-paste. Bake in a moderate oven: or the eels 
may be stewed first for -J hour and finished in the pie. 



FISH PIES. 73 



FISH AND OYSTER PIE. 

Clear the meat from the bones of any cold fish which 
has been left over from a previous occasion. Cod, had- 
dock, sole, or plaice are best for the purpose. Place a 
layer of the fish in the bottom of the pie-dish, and 
sprinkle it with pepper and salt; over this put a layer of 
bread crumbs, on which place a few oysters, a little 
chopped parsley and grated nutmeg, and repeat the 
layers till the dish is full. Before covering, pour over 
the pie the liquor of the oysters, and a little melted but- 
ter or white sauce; it may be covered with strips of puflf 
pastry, laid trelliswise, or it may be simply covered with 
bread crumbs. Bake for about twenty minutes. 

FLOUNDERS PIE. 

Clean and dry well in a cloth some flounders; boil and 
separate the fish from the bones; boil the bones in a 
saucepan with 1 pt. of the water in which the fish was 
boiled, parsley, lemon-peel, pepper and salt; when re- 
duced to the quantity required for gravy, make a crust 
and line a pie-dish; put bits of butter in the bottom, 
then a layer of fish; strew with chopped parsley and 
sprinkle with flour, pepper and salt; proceed thus until 
the dish is full, pour in the gravy, and bake with a top 
crust. 

HALIBUT PIE. 

Take 4 lbs. fresh halibut (the middle of the fish is 
best) ; season with salt, pepper, cayenne and powdered 
mace. Take off the skin, cut the flesh into thick slices, 
and put them into a pie-dish with \ ft), of butter, broken 
into pieces, and a little anchovy sauce. Liue the edges 
of the dish with pastry, cover and bake. 



74 FISH PIES. 

HERRING PIE. 

Choose some herrings with soft roes; scale and clean 
them well; cut o£f the heads, tails and fins; sj^lit thtiu 
open, take out the bones, and season their inner surface 
with salt and pepper Line the edges of a buttered pie- 
dish with a good crust; spread over the bottom a layer 
^ in, thick of equal parts of finely minced appl s and 
onions; place the herring on this, and cover with an- 
other layer of apples and onions; sprinkle the surface 
with grated nutmeg and finely shred lemon rind; place 
pieces of butter on top, pour in a little water, cover and 
bake. 

LING PIE. 

Take 3 ibs. of the thin part of a salt ling, wash in two 
or three waters, and let soak for 2 hours; put it into a 
fish-kettle with as much water as will cover it, and let 
boil slowly until done. Take off the skin, and put layers 
of the fish into a pie-dish, with four hard-boiled eggs cut 
into slices, chopped parsley, with salt, cayenne and 
pounded mace strewn amongst them; add 3 ozs. butter* 
in small pieces; pour over the fish J pt. gravy. Line 
the edges of the dish with a good crust, cover, egg and 
bake. Before serving pour a cupful of warm cream into 
the pie. 

LOBSTER PIE. 

Pick the meat from two medium sized, freshly boiled 
lobsters, and cut into neat small pieces. Bruise the 
shells and spawn in a mortar; put them into a stewpan 
with J pt. water, vinegar, pepper and pounded mace; 
simmer gently until the goodness is extracted; strain 
the gi'avy, thicken with 1 oz butter rolled in flour, und 
let boil again. Line the edges of the pie-dish with good 



FISH PIES. 75 



puff paste; put in the pieces of lobster, strain the gravy 
over them, strew finely grated bread crumbs over them; 
cover and bake. 

LOBSTER AND OYSTER PIE. 

Pick the meat from the tails of two freshly-boiled 
lobsters; cut into neat pieces and season with pepper, salt 
and pounded mace. Bruise tlie shell and spawn, and 
make a little gravy from them. Pound the flesh from the 
claws and bodies, to a small paste, mix it with a slice of 
bread finely grated, 6 ozs. butter, vinegar, pepper, salt 
and nutmeg. Line the edges and sides of a pie-dish 
with good pnfif paste; put in the slices of lobster, then 2 
doz oysters with their liquor, and afterwards the pounded 
meat; cover and bake. Before serving, sti*ew a little of 
the gravy from the shells, into the pie. 

MACKEREL PIE. (1) . 

Clean three middling sized mackerel, taking out the 
melts and roes which are in the composition of a force- 
meat, to stuff the fish. Add bread-crumbs, chopped pars- 
ley, onion, mace, pepper, salt, butter, and an egy; or two, 
to cement the whole. Sew up the fish neatly and l;iy 
them into an ordinary oval flat dish with an edging of 
good mashed potatoes or a puff paste. Balls of force- 
meat will enrich the dish, and some rich sauce may be 
poured over the fish when baked; but both forcemeat 
and sauce should be delicately prepared. Cover with 
bread-crumbs, and put bits of butter over the fish; bake. 

MACKEREL PIE. (2) 
Proceed as for cod pie, but do not salt them till ustd. 



76 FISH PIES. 



OYSTER PIE. (1) 
Butter the inside of a shallow pie-dish rather thickly, 
and line the edges with a good pufif-paste. Open and 
beard 2 doz fresh oysters, lay them in the dish, season 
with salt, cayenne and pounded mace; sprinkle over 
I hem flnely-grated bread-crumbs. Mix the strained 
oyster-liquor with the same quantity of thick cream and 
a little lemon-juice; pour over the oysters; cover the pie 
and bake; | lb of the kidney fat of a loin of veal, or a 
small boiled sweetbread cut into thin slices, may be put 
into the pie with the oysters. 

OYSTER PIE. (2) 
Cook 1 qt oysters in about 1 pt milk, for five minutes; 
add 3 ozs cracker dust, | oz pepper, and a little sage; 
fill the pies; cover and bake. 

PATE OF FISH. 

Boil and mash smoothly, with 1 oz butter and a 
spoonful of milk or cream to each pound, as many pota- 
toes as will make a border about 3 inches high within 
the rim of the dish; 3 fbs. of potatoes will do for a mod- 
erate-sized dish; raise this border, ornament it, brush 
over with beaten eggs and bake till lightly browned; 
have ready crab or other fish, stewed in sauce, and when 
the potatoes are colored, put in the preparation and 
serve very hot. 

To prepare the fish. Take 2 lbs. cold boiled fish, care- 
fully picked from bones and broken into small pieces; 
warm in 1 pt. good white sauce, richly flavored; stir 
gently over the fire until the fish is hot; turn the whole 
into the hollow in the centre of the potatoes. 

To prepare the crab. Pick the meat from the shell, 



FISH PIES. 77 



mix with it | of its bulk in fried grated bread crumbs; 
season with salt, cayenne and grated nutmeg; pound in 
a mortar; moisten with gravy thickened with flour and 
butter; add a spoonful of sherry and stir over the fire 
till quite hot; squeeze over it the juice of a lemon, and 
it is ready for use. 

PILCH A.RD AND LEEK PIE. 
Trim off the coarser leaves from four or five large 
leeks; cut the white parts only into equal lengths and 
scald them in salted water; lay them in a pie-dish, 
the edges of which are lined with plain pastry; put be- 
tween the layers four salted pilchards, which have been 
laid in water the previous day to soak; cover and bake; 
when done enough lift up the cover, drain o£f the gravy, 
and put in a little boiling cream. 

PEAWN PIE. 
Have as many well-cleaned prawns as will nearly fill 
a die-dish; season with powdered mace, cloves, cayenne or 
Chili vinegar; put some butter in the dish, cover with a 
light puff-paste and bake. 

SALT FISH PIE. 
Soak and boii the fish; divide the flesh, freed from 
skin and bones, into neat squares. Take double the 
quantity in partially-boiled potatoes, thinly sliced, and as 
many as agreeable of half-cooked sliced onions. Butter 
a pie-dish thickly, fill it with layers of sliced potatoes, 
first, hard-boiled eggs and onions; season each layer with 
pepper and dry mustard; place pieces of butter in the 
pie; pour over egg sauce, cover and bake. If liked, 
mashed potatoes may be used to cover the pie instead of 
pastry; or potato paste may be used. 



FISH PIES. 



SALMON PIE. 

Remove the skin from about 3 lbs. fresh salmon; raise 
the flesh from the bones and divide it into pieces conven- 
ient for serving; season every piece separately with salt, 
pepper and pounded mace. Shell 1 pt. shrimps and 
])ound them with 1 oz. butter and a pinch of cayenne. 
Pat the pieces of salmon in a dish, interspersing the 
jionnded shrimp amongst them. Make some fish gravy 
by boiling the skin and bones in water till the liquor 
will jelly when cold; fill the dish with this; cover and 
1 ake. 

SALMON PIE— HOT. 

Make a short paste as follows: Take 1 Jb. flour and 
spread it in a circle on a slab; lay in the center the yolk 
of an egg, 10 ozs. butter, ^ gill water and a pinch of 
salt; dilute the butter with the liquid and introduce the 
flour gradually into it; as soon as a firm paste is obtained 
break it three times with the palms of both hands, gather 
it up and set it aside for ^ hour. 

Take a round pie-mould, butter the inside well and set 
it on a baking sheet. Make a quenelle forcemeat with 10 
or 12 ozs. of the flesh of pike. Remove the skin and 
bones from about 1^ lbs. fresh salmon and divide the 
flesh into squares. Chop an onion, fry it in a stewpan 
with oil and butter, adding a few fresh-chopped mush- 
rooms; whenever their moisture is reduced add two or 
three raw chopped truffles and pieces of salmon; fry 
over a sharp fire for a few minutes; season with salt and 
spices and moisten with half a glassful of Maderia; let 
the whole boil for a few minutes, keeping the saucepan 
covered. 

Mould two-thirds of the prepared paste into a ball 



FISH PIES. 79 



and roll it out into a thin, circular, flat form; raise 
the sides of this paste, pressing it between the 
fingers so as to form the paste into a sort of bag; 
lift the paste carefully and place it in the mould, 
covering it well at the bottom and along the sides; 
cut the paste ^ in. above the rim of the mould and 
then mask it at the bottom and along the sides with 
a layer of forcemeat; above the layer place half of the 
slices of salmon with some of the fine herbs; mask again 
with forcemeat and pile up the rest of the fish in a dome- 
like shape, rising above the rim of the mould. Cover 
the pieces of salmon with another layer of forcemeat, and 
place over all the rest of the paste rolled out very thin; 
fasten the. two flats of paste on the edges, pressing the 
paste so as to render it thinner; cut it regularly, in order 
to be pinched all around with pastry pincers. With 
the trimmings of the paste prepare a few imitation 
leaves, which arrange as a rose on the dome, on the top 
of which form a small cavity ; cover it with three small 
rounds of paste of different sizes, placed one above an- 
other like a pyramid; egg and push it into a moderate 
oven; cover with paper and bake. On taking it out, 
having put it on a dish, remove the mould and cut the 
dome all around its centei*, by which aperture "pour into 
the pie white sauce, reduced with extract prepared with 
wine and the trimmings and bones of the pike and sal- 
mon. 

SALMON PIE— COLD. 

Cut 2 lbs. raw salmon into squares, larding them with 
fillets of truffles and anchovies; season with salt and 
spice; fry them a few minutes with butter in a stewpan; 
pour over ^ gill of sherry, which must be reduced; re- 



80 FISH PIES; 

move the stewpau back, add to the fish 1 ib. peeled raw 
truffles cut in quarters, seasoned; cover t^ie stewpau and 
let all the ingredients coo^ together. Chop very fine 10 
ozs. lean veal or pork with the same quantity of raw 
pike or eel* add to this mince 1 ft. fresh fat bacon; 
pound the whole together and pass through a sieve; sea- 
son the forcemeat well, with salt and spices and add to 
the above the trimmings of truffles, pounded with a little 
bacon and passed through a sieve. 

Prepare a short paste (see Salmon Pie — Hot). Butter 
a cold pie-mould of either round or oval shape, which set 
on a baking sheet covered with paper; line it with two- 
thirds of the paste and mask the hollow and sides wtih 
a thin layer of forcemeat; fill the hollow with the 
squares of fish and the truffles and forcemeat 
mixed, arrange the preparations in a dome-shape 
fashion, rising above the rim of the mould; mask 
it with little slices of bacon, and then with a thin round 
flat made with the remainder of the paste; cover, deco- 
rate and bake. One-half an hour after removed from 
the oven, pour into the hollow on the top two glasses full 
of aspic jelly, mixed with a little Maderia. Half an hour 
after take out of the mould, and let the pie cool 24 hours 
previous to being served. 

SALMON PIE A LA EUSSE. 

Cut 2 tt)s. fresh salmon in slices about ^ in. thick; fil- 
let I dozen anchovies; trim 2 dozen olives (removing the 
stones by paring off the outer part without altering the 
shape); boil ^ dozen eggs; place the whole of these in a 
dish. Chop a sufficient quantity of mushrooms, shallots, 
parsley, green thyme, sweet-basil, tarragon; put them 
into a stew pan with 2 ozs. butter, nutmeg, pepper and 



FISH PIES. 81 

salt; simmer five minutes; add ^ pt. brown sauce and 
the juice of a lemon; stew the whole five minutes longer. 

Have ready 2 lbs. short paste; roll out | of it about 
l-6th in. thick, and after having thinly spread the 
inside of an oblong mould with butter, line it with this, 
and fill with alternate layers of the slices of salmon, 
hard eggs, olives, and fillets of anchovies, at the same 
time spreading some of the fine herbs' sauce between 
each layer; the pie must be covered with the remainder 
of the paste in the usual manner; bake 1^ hours; dish 
on a napkin. 

These pies may also be made of sturgeon, trout, mack- 
eral, soles, etc. 

SALMON AND POTATO PIE. 

Free from skin and bones the remains of cold boiled 
salmon; divide into small pieces, and season 1 ft), of it 
with salt, pepper and cayenne. Butter a shallow pie-dish; 
spread over the bottom a layer of potatoes which have 
been mashed lightly with butler, milk and the yolk of an 
egg. Put the pieces of fish on the potato, moisten with 
any fish sauce, and cover with another layer of potato; 
roughen the top of the pie with a fork, and put in a brisk 
oven till the surface is lightly browned and quite 
hot; serve in the dish it was baked. 

SHRIMP PIE (1). 
Pick as many shrimps as will almost fill the dish, sea- 
soning with cayenne, pounded mace, salt and vinegar or 
lemon pickle; a small proportion of essence of anchovies 
may be added if desired. Butter a pie-dish rather thickly, 
and line the edges with pufi" paste; put in the shrimps, 
pour over them a glass of hgiit wine, and a small cup ol 
rich gravy; cover with puff paste and bake. 



82 PISH PIES. 



SHRIMP PIE (2). 

Pick 1 qt. shrimps, if they are very salt, season them 
with only mace and a clove or two. Mince a few ancho- 
vies; mix them with the spice and then season the 
shrimps. Put some butter at the bottom of the dish and 
over the shrimps, with a glass of sharp white wine. The 
paste must be light and thin; they do not take long 
to bake. 

A few hard boiled eggs, cut in quarters, may be placed 
over the shrimps. 

SOLE PIE (1). 

Split some soles from the bone, and cut the fins close; 
season with a mixture of salt, pepper, nutmeg and 
pounded mace; put them in layers with oysters. 

SOLE PIE (2). 

Clear from bones the remains of any cold boiled sole 
or cod; put a layer of it in the bottom of a pie-dish; 
add a little seasoning of pounded mace, pepper and salt, 
and a few oysters, in the proportion of a dozen to each 
pound weight of fish. Fill tlie disk with alternate layers 
of fish, oysters, and seasoning; add three tablcspoonsful 
of white stock; cover the pie with puff paste, and bake 
in a moderate oven for half an hour. Boil a teacupful of 
cream with just snflicient flour to thicken it, and. when 
the pie has been baked, pour it into it, and serve. 

The remains of cold cod may be made into a pie in the 
same way. 

STAR-GAZY PIE. 

Take as many fresii herring or mackerel as will fill a 
moderate-sized dish; scale, empty, open and remove 
the bones; lay them flat on the table; season the inside 



FISH PIES. 83 



of each with salt, cayenne, and chopped parsley; and roll 
it up neatly. Butter the pie-dish, and sprinkle upon it a 
thick layer of finely grated bread-crumbs, lay in some of 
the fish, and fill the dish with alternate layers of fish and 
bread-crumbs; cover the contents of the pie with a few 
slices of fat bacon or the fat of a ready-dressed ham; 
pour over all ^ dozen eggs beaten up with tarragon vine- 
gar, or I pt. cream, if preferred. Cover the dish with 
a good crust, and bake. Arrange the heads of the 
fish in the center of the pastry, and when the pie is baked, 
put a piece of parsley in the mouth of each fish, and 
serve. 

This pie is so named because the heads of the fish are 
usually placed mouth uppermost in the centre of the lid 
of the crnst, as pigeon legs are in a pigeon pie, and there- 
fore the fish are supposed to be star-gazing. 

TENCH PIE. 

Butter a pie-dish rather thickly, and line the edges 
with a good crust; put in the tench; season with pepper, 
salt and grated nutmeg; place on it lumps of butter, and 
pour over it claret and water; cover and bake. When 
the pie is done, pour in some strong gravy through the 
hole at the top. 

TENCH AND EEL PIE. 

Bone two tench, and bone and skin two eels; cut the 
latter in two inch lengths, but leave the sides of the tench 
whole. Simmer the bones of the fish gently for an hour 
in a stewpau, with a pint of water, a faggot of savory 
herbs, two onions, four blades of mace, three anchovies, 
and pepper and salt to taste. Afterward strain the liquor, 
and allow it to cool, skimming off the fat. Place the 



84 PISH PIES. 

^ench and eels in a pie-dish, in layers, having between 
each a seasoning of one teaspoonfal of chopped parsley, 
the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs, and pepper and salt. 
Pour part of the strained liquor over all, cover the pie 
with puff paste, and bake for fully half au hour in a 
quick oven. When ready, heat well the remaining por- 
tion of the strained liquor, and add to the pie. 

TURBOT PIE. 

Take the remains of cold turbot; free the white flesh 
from skin and bone; tare it into flakes and season with 
pepper, salt and powdered mace. Spread it at the bot- 
tom of a thickly-buttered baking dish, and pour over it 
any appropriate sauce, or melted butter; cover with a 
thick layer of potato paste; bake, and salamander. 

WHITING PIE. 
Take the fillets of about a dozen small whitings, wash 
and trim without taking off the skins; season highly with 
salt, pepper and nutmeg; spread over them forcemeat 
of crayfish, with truffles or mushrooms; roll up the fil- 
lets, quite round, beginning at the small end. When thus 
prepared, spread some of the forcemeat at the bottom 
and sides of the pan ; place upon it some of the fillets 
upright, which should thus cover the bottom; pour upon 
them butter scarcely melted, and place two more layers 
of the fillets; pour butter over them with two bay-leaves 
added; finish and bake. When serving pour off all the 
fat, and mask with a ragout. 



CHAPTEK VI. 
VEGETABLE PIES. 

Scald and blanch some beans; cut young carrots, tur- 
niijs, artichoke-bottoms, mushrooms, peas, onions, 
lettuce, parsley, celery — any or all of them — making the 
whole into a nice stew. Bake a crust over a dish, with 
a little lining around the edge, and a cup turned up to 
keep it from sinking; when baked, open the lid and pour 
in the stew. 

VEGETABLE PIE (2). 

Scald some Windsor beans; cut into neat pieces, young 
carrots, turnips, artichoke-bottoms, lettuce, mushrooms, 
celery, and parsley, with green peas; onions and spinach 
may be added if liked. Stew the vegetables partially in 
gravy and season with pepper and salt. Trim the edges 
of a dish with pastry; put in the vegetables, pour the 
gravy over this, cover and bake. If a maigre dish is 
wanted, use cream or milk, slightly thickened with flour 
and butter, in place of gravy, 

CAREOT PIE. 

Wash and slice the carrots, and parboil them; put 
them into a dish edged with a light crust; add pepper 
and salt, and pour a little water over them; cover with 
crust, and bake. 

HERB PIE. 

Wash and boil a little, Fufficient parsley, spinach, let- 
tuce, mustard-seed, cresses, and a few leaves of borage, 



86 VEGETABLE PIES. 



etc.; drain and press out the water; cut them small; 
mix, and lay them in a dish, sprinkled with salt. Mix a 
batter of flour, 2 eggs well beaten, 1 pt cream, and ^ pt 
milk; pour it on the herbs; cover with a good paste, and 
bake. 

LEEK FLAMMISH. 

Cut up one doz leeks (previously washed clean and 
free from grit) into pieces ^ in. long; place these in a 
basin with ^ pt good thick cream, seasoning with nut- 
meg, pepper and salt; mix all well together. Prepare 
1 lb short paste; divide it into four equal parts; mould 
these into balls; roll them out to the size and shape of 
pudding plates, and place them on a baking-dish or tin; 
with a paste brush dipped in water, wet all around the 
paste, fill the centre of each with enough of the prepared 
leeks to fill theflammish, when, by gathering up the sides 
of the paste, each flat assumes the form of a puckered 
] urse; this must be secured by fastening the plaits to- 
gether with a wetted small circular piece of paste gently 
pressed upon their centre. Bake ^hour. 

MACARONI PIE. 

Take a piece of gravy beef, cut in small pieces, put it 
into a saucepan with an onion sliced, and a piece of but- 
ter; toss it on the tire till the onion and pieces of meat 
are browned; then add a glass of white wine, a faggot of 
sweet herbs, a carrot cut in pieces, spices pepper and 
salt to taste, mushrooms^ and a fair allowance of tomato- 
sauce. Let the whole simmer for a couple ot hours, then 
strain, and skim off superfluous fat. Put the boiled 
macaroni into a saucepan with a piece of butter, plenty 
of grated Parmesan cheese, and as much of the sauce or 



VEGETABLE PIES. 



gravy as it will absorb; toss it on the fire a little while 
and put it by till wanted. Make a smooth and stiff paste 
with 1ft) fine flour, 5 ozs fresh butter, two or three yolks 
of eggs, two ozs sugar, a pinch of salt, and tepid water, 
q. s. Roll it out to the thickness of the eighth of an 
inch, and line with it a plain round mould previously 
buttered, uniting the joints carefully with white of egg. 
Have ready some very small fillets of breasts of chicken, 
just cooked with butter in a covered tiij in the oven, 
some cooked ham or ox tongue cut in dice, some truffles, 
mushrooms, and cockscombs, cut in convenient piec: o 
and cooked in the gravy used to dress the macaroni. 
Fill the lined mould with all these things in judicior.s 
proportion, letting the macaroni, of course, predomi- 
nate, and adding during the process a little more sauce oi- 
gravy and' a due allowance of Parmesan cheese; cover 
up the mould with a disc of paste, unite the edges care- 
fully, and bake in a moderate oven for about an hour. 
Turnout the mould carefully and seive. 

MUSHROOM PIE. 

Choose 1 or two 2 doz. fairly large mushrooms; peel 
and quarter them — cut button mushrooms in half if used 
instead of the larger kind. Pare and slice ^ doz. pota- 
toes, and put both mushrooms and potatoes into a 
buttered pie-dish with a little water. Divide 2 ozs. 
butter into equal pieces, and add, placing on the other 
ingredients; season with pepper and salt, cover with a 
good paste, and bake. 

Stew down the parings and stalks of the mushrooms 
in a little water for \ hour; strain, and when the pie is 
ready to serve, make an incision in the top and pour 
in the gravy. 



88 VEGETABLE PIES. 



ONION PIE. 

Equal quantities of onions, apples, J oz. dried sage, 
and 2 oz. butter. Cut the onions in two, boil five min- 
ntes, and chop them small, adding the sage; season with 
pepper and salt, and put them in a pie-dish with the 
butter and a little water. Prepare the apples as for 
sauce, with a little sugar; lay them over the onions, 
cover with paste and bake. 

PATE OF MACAEONI. 

Put into a stew-pan 6 ozs. macaroni with a moderate 
sized onion, and 3 pts. boiling water, seasoned with salt 
iiiid pepper; let simmer 20 minutes, drain well, and put 
back into the saucepan with|^pt. broth; let simmer again 
until the onion is absorbed and the macaroni tender, but 
unbroken. Place a layer at the bottom of a deep pie- 
dish; sprinkle with grated Parmesan and pieces 
of butter; cover with beef steak, highly sea- 
soned and stewed until tender, in good brown 
gravy and cut into small thin pieces. If preferred, 
a fricasseed chicken, minced veal, sweetbread cut 
into dice, or mushrooms, may be substituted for the beef 
but they all must be stewed in I'ich gravy before they are 
put with the macaroni; fill up the dish with alternate 
layers of macaroni and meat, the uppermost layer being, 
macaroni; sprinkle Parmesan over the top, and pour over 
it -J oz. clarified butter; put the dish into the oven, and 
when the cheese is dissolved it is ready to serve. 

POTATO GIPSY PIE. 
Peel and slice thinly as many potatoes as will fill a 
moderate sized pie-dish; put them in in layers, and sea- 
son with salt, pepper and minced onion; pour over a 



VEGETABLE PIES. 



little water and place pieces of butter on top; cover and 
bake; when done enough, pour mushroom catsup 
into it, through a hole in the top. 

POTATO PASTY. 

To make this, a pasty-pan must be procured with a 
well-fitting perforated plate and a valve-pipe to screw on. 
The meat seasoning and gravy are put into the lower 
part, the plate is then laid upon the meat, the valve-pipe 
screwed on and mashed potatoes equally spread on the 
top; it should be baked in a moderate oven and sent to 
the table in the same tin in which baked, with a neatly 
folded napkin pinned around it; the cover should not be 
removed until the meat is to be served, and an empty 
dish should be placed in readiness for it; if properly 
baked, the potatoes will be nicely browned, and flavored 
like the meat. 

The contents of this pie may be varied indefinitely. 
Mutton or veal cutlets, pork chops, chickens or rabbits 
cut into neat joints and fish of various kinds may all be 
used. The meat should be neatly trimmed, nicely 
seasoned, and gravy poured over it; the mashed potatoes 
should form a crust at least 3 inches thick; 2 lbs. meat 
and 3 ft>s. potatoes will make a moderate sized pasty. 

POTATO PIE (1). 

Slice three onions and put them in a stewpan with 
4 ozs. butter, and 1 doz. potatoes; add 1 qt. water, pepper 
and salt; put the lid on, and set the whole to stew on a 
rather brisk fire, for ^ hour; by this timethe potatoes will 
be done, and the water sufficiently reduced to furnish 
only enough for the pie; pile the stew up in an earthen 



90 VK(iKTABJ.K PIES. 



pie-dish, covered with potato paste; bake ^ hour and 
serve. 

Any kind of fish, or shell fish may be added; but 
when fish is used for potato-pie it should be freed from 
bone and skin, arid simmered with a little butter, pepper 
and salt, and when done, placed in neat rows on top of 
the potato stew, previously to the pie being covered in. 
In this case the pie will require an extra quarter of an 
hours' baking. Sausage meat is frequently mixed with 
the potatoes. 

POTATO PIE (2). 

Skin some potatoes and cut them into slices; season 
them; also some mutton, beef, pork and veal; proceed 
as for turnip pie. 

POTATO PIE (3). 

Peel, slice and wash some potatoes; place them in a 
deep dish, narrower at the bottom than the top; place 
the potatoes in layers, then pour over them liquor from 
mutton bones, that have been carefully stewed for a 
couple of hours; season with salt; put a thick crust over 
the top. 

A tvMstler is made as above with the addition of 1 
It), onions to every 5 tbs. potatoes. The onions are sup- 
posed to be whistling for the meat which is very conspic- 
uous by its absence. 

POTATO PIE— TEN TO ONE. 

Line the edges of a deep pie-dish with good crust, fill 
it with either beef steak or slices of mutton, nicely sea- 
soned, and slices of raw potato | inch thick, allowing 8 
or 10 slices of potato to one piece of meat; pour a little 



VEGETABLE PIES. 91 



gravy or water over the whole; cover and bake; serve very 
hot. 

This is a favorite New England dish. 

POTATO PIES. 

It is a good plan to have made a tin perforated with 
lioles, and with a handle at each end to fit an ordinary 
sized pie-dish; this lid should fit down at least an inch 
below the level of the dish, and before using it the first 
time it should be washed in boiling soda and water, as 
new tin is often poisonous. 

Cut any cold meat into neat slices, sprinkle over them 
pepper and salt, minced onions and a little gravy or water, 
with lumps of butter or beef-drippings; put on the tin lid, 
and pile upon it as many cold boiled potatoes, mashed 
with milk, as will fill the space to the top of the dish; 
bake and send to table in the dish in which baked, with 
a hot napkin pinned around. 

TUKNIP PIE. 

Season mutton chops with salt and pepper, reserving 
the ends of the neck-bones to lay over the turnips, which 
must be cut into small dice, and put on the steaks; put 
:n a little milk and a sliced onion; cover with a crust 
\nd bake. 



CHAPTEE VII. 

Patties, Vol-au-Vents. 

PATTIES, OR VOL-AU-VENT CRUST. 

FOR OYSTERS, CHICKEN, FRUIT JELLY, ETC. 

2 ibs. flour, 1 wine-glass rum, 

2tbs. butter, Ice water. 

I teaspoon salt, 

Puff paste must be made in ice box or very cold room. 

Wash butter, squeeze dry, flatten out square; sift 
flour with salt; put in ice box until next day, to become 
chilled. 

Put ^ lb. of cold flour on corner of table or dough 
board and sprinkle mm in the 2 lbs. of flour in large disb 
or bowl; mix. Break off J of the butter, rub finely into 
the flour, pour m enough ice water to make a soft dough; 
mix lightly, turn on floured table, roll out to | inch 
thickness. Place butter in center, fold 4 sides over, turn 
all over. Roll out to ^ inch thickness; be careful butter 
does not break through; spriukle with flour; let stand 15 
minutes. 

Fold once toward you and once from you, making 3 
laps; roll out to ^ iucb thickness; let stand ^ hour. 
Fold up again, this time from the sides; roll out to ^ 
inch thickness; let stand ^ hour. Repeat this five times 
in all, from front to side fold", and It-t last fold stand | 
of an hour. Cut into shape desired with cutter; place 
into pan and let.,st;uid 20 minutes, and bake in medium 



PATTIES, VOL-AtJ- VENTS. 93 

oven. If the oven is too hot, they rise too quickly and 
topple over; if too cold, the butter will run out. Follow 
all directions closely, not forgetting to use good rum. 

PATTIES 

May be baked in patty pans or v^ithout them, the 
former being styled French Patties, the latter being 
preferable They are usually made with puff-paste and 
lilled with savory ingredients of various kinds; they 
should be baked in a brisk oven. 

If made in pans, lightly grease them; line the moulds 
with puff-paste (| inch thick), fill them with flour, or 
place a crust of bread in the middle of them, put on the 
cover, trim the pastry evenly with the moulds, moisten 
the edges, press them together', and mark them with the 
prongs of a fork; when baked enough, raise the covers, 
take out the crusts, and return the patties to the oven 
for a minute or two to dry; before serving put the proper 
meat into the place where the bread has been. 

When made without moulds, roll out the paste about 
^ inch thick, cut into rounds 1| inches in diameter; 
place half of them on a buttered baking tin, moisten the 
edges, place a teaspoon of the proper forcemeat in the 
centre of each, and cover it with another of the rounds, 
press the edges securely, egg and bake. 

Patties, served hot or cold, should be arranged on a 
folded napkin. 

VOL-AU-VENTS. 

A Vol-au-Vent is one of the handsomest forms in 
which the remains of dishes can be served; it is generally 
filled with a mince, or ragout, or fricassee of dressed 
meat; it is made of the lightest puff-paste, which should 



94 PATTIES, VOL-AU-VENTS. 

be prepared an hour or so before wanted, and kept in a 
cool place. If the paste is not exceedingly ligbt the 
Vol-au-Vent will not rise properly; in rolling, care must 
be taken to keep it perfectly square and even at the ends, 
or the pastry cannot rise evenly; the pastry ought to 
have six turns, and five minutes should elapse between 
each turn; brush over with lemon juice, and when 
doubled for the last time, fold it in such a manner that, 
when finished, it will be the exact size of the inside of 
the dish in which it is to be served, and a little more 
than an inch thick; cut it evenly all round with a knife 
that has been made hot in water, so as not to drag the 
pastry; make an incision with a cutter ^ in. deep all 
round the edge of the lid; press the inner circle away 
from the outer one with the point of a knife to prevent 
them closing again; this inner circle when baked will 
form the cover of the Vol-au-Vent. Put in a well 
heated oven ; in | or | hour, if it appears baked through, 
take it out, lift up the cover with the point of a knife 
where it has been marked, and scoop out the soft 
crumby centre without injuring the walls of the case; 
put in the oven a few minutes to dry ; fill with the savory 
mince; put on the cover, and serve on a napkin. 

Care must be paid to the condition of the oven; if it 
is not well heated the pastry cannot properly rise; if the 
heat is too fierce, the surface will be set before the heat 
has penetrated through the pastry, and this will also 
keep it from rising. When it has risen a couple of 
inches, and before it acquires any color, cover the Vol-au- 
Vent with paper to keep it from browning too quickly. 
If, accidentally the walls of the Vol-au-Vent should re- 
ceive any injury, a little piece of pastry should be stuck 
in the thin place, with white of egg. The appearance of 



PATTIES, VOL-AU-VENTS. 95 

the Vol-au-Vent will be improved if it is brnsbed over 
with egg after it has risen iu the even. 

When preparing the ragouts; etc., for Vol-au-Vents, it 
is very important that the sauces in which the meat is 
heated should be very thick; unless this is done, the 
liquor will be in danger of oozing through the crust, and 
this will entirely spoil the appearance of the Vol-au-Vent. 
Also the meat should be simmered only in the sauce; if 
allowed to boil, it will in all probability be hard and un- 
palatable. 

VOL-AU-VENTS— SMALL. 

Prepare the pastry as for large vol-au-vents: roll out 
^ inch thick ; have two cutters, one double the size of the 
other, if fluted, so much the better; bake, and when done 
enough, lift off the covers and scoop out the insides as 
before; dry the pastry and fill the cavities; put on the 
covers and serve hot or cold, 

A LA FINANCIERE. 

When about to send to the table make a vol-au vent 
case hot; place it on a dish; garnish with a financiere 
ragout (see below). The top may be finished by placing 
in it a larded sweetbread surrounded by decorated 
quenelles, or truffles and crayfish. 

Financiere Ragout. Place in a stew pan, ready cooked, 
a few cockscombs, button mushroom, truffles, quenelles, 
scollops of sweet breads; add a half pint good brown 
sauce, flavored, if possible, with game, a glass of sherry 
or Madeira, and a pinch of cayenne; boil together three 
minutes and serve as garnish for vol-au-vents, etc. 

A LA NORMANDE. 
Fillet a large sole, put on a buttered dish, and sprinkle 



96 l»ATTlES, VOL-AU-VENTS. 

upon it a finely miuced oniou, previously parboiled; pour 
upon it as much milk or light wine as will barely cover it, 
and bake till done enough; divide it into neat slices of uni- 
form size, and put them in a stewpan with an equal quan- 
tity of oysters which have been plumped in their liquor, 
mussels which have been shaken over the fire in a stew-pan 
till their shells open, mushrooms stewed in butter, and 
small pieces of the crumb of bread fried in butter till lightly 
browned; take as much veloute or other approj^riate sauce 
as will cover the ingredients; put it into a sauce pauj and 
stir in the oyster liquor, the mussel broth and the gravy 
from the sole; let simmer till thick; beat the yolks of two 
eggs in a basin; mix a spoonful or two of the sauce with 
them, and add to the rest; simmer the suace without 
allowing to boil, and pour it over the fish; let all heat 
very gently for three minutes, and the ragout will be 
ready for the vol-au-vent. 

BEEF PATTIES— (PODOVIES). 

Take ^ doz. slices under-dressed roast beef, with a 
small portion of fat; shred finely, season with salt, pepper 
and chopped onion or shalot. Roll out ^ ft) puff-paste 
very thin; lay spoonsful of the mince upon it, one inch 
apai't, and moisten the pastry round the meat with a 
little water; cover with a piece of pastry; press together 
the portion round each little ball of mince, and stamp 
rounds out with a cutter; pinch the edges and fry the 
patties in hot fat until bright coloi'ed; drain on blotting 
paper; serve piled high on a dish. 

BEEF PATTIES. (1.) 

Take thick slices of stale bread, cutting them of the 
desired form and size, with a tin cutter; scoop out the 



i 



PATTIES, VOL-AU-VENTS. 97 

middle to receive the mince, as prepared below; dip 
each piece of bread into cream, and when drained brush 
with the white of egg, and dredge bread crumbs over 
them; fry in fresh butter, fill with the mince made hot 
and send to table on napkin. 

To prepare the tilling. — Mince | ft) fresh suet; put it, 
to 1 ft) each of beef and veal, cut into small pieces, but 
not chopped; season with pepper, salt, pounded allspice, 
and mace; mix all together; when wanted for patties 
cut up a little parsley, and shred one blade of shalot, very 
finely, to mix with it. Bake in patty pans or buttered 
saucers, 

These patties are good cold, and may be warmed up at 
any time. 

BEEF PATTIES. (2). 
Shred 1 ft undercooked beef, a little fat and lean 
together; season with pepper or cayenne, salt and onion 
or shalot. 

CHEESE PATTIES. 

Line some tartlet tins with good puff paste, and half 
fill them with the following mixture: Put ^ ft) cheese, cuj. 
into small pieces, in a mortar with salt, pepper, raw mus. 
tard and a small piece of butter; pound smoothly, and 
add by degrees the well beaten yolks of three eggs, and a 
tablespoon of sherry; mix thoroughly, and just before 
the patties are to be baked, add the white of an egg 
beaten to a solid froth. 

CHICKEN PATTIES. (1). 

Take three or four old chickens after having them 
well cleaned; put them in about 3 or 4 quarts cold 
water, well seasoned with salt, pepper, thyme, celery, 
7 



98 PATTIES. VOL AU VENTS. 



etc., and well garnished with carrots and onions. When 
it commences to boil take them out and let them get cold; 
take off all the meat, letting the carcasses reboil in the 
same stock; cut the meat in small square pieces. Let 
the stock boil down until reduced to 1| quarts, and 
strain through a towel. In a small sauce pan put three 
spoonsful of flour with two of butter and mix well until 
almost brown (but not dark) ; add the stock in which the 
chickens have boiled, and stir constantly till it comes to a 
boil; then take the yolks of four eggs, mixed with a little 
cream and one ounce butter; bind the whole together; 
strain the same, adding the juice of a lemon and a little 
butter, as required; mix with this sauce, the chickens 
already cut up. Warm the patty pans and fill. 

CHICKEN PATTIES. (2.) 
Proceed as for veal patties, using chicken in place of 
veal. 

CHICKEN VOL- AU- VENTS. 

Take the bones from a boiled chicken and cut the 
meat into small cubes, adding a few mushrooms, cut up in 
a similar manner, and a bit of lean, boiled ham, finely 
minced. Make a sauce of well reduced chicken broth, 
adding a few yolks of eggs, a pat of butter and a glass 
of cream; season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and the juice 
of a lemon; into this put the minced chicken, etc., and 
place in a sauce pan over the fire; Warm up the cases 
and line them from the mass with a spoon. Serve on a 
dish with a folded napkin undeaneath. 

DRESDEN PATTIES. 

Take the outer crust of a stale French roll, divide the 
crumb into slices, and then into rounds, with a tin cutter; 



PATTIES, VOL-AU-VENTS. 99 

make the slices suflficiently thick to allow of the middle 
being scooped oat. Dip the croustades into milk, drain 
well, smear with egg and cover with fine bread raspings, 
fried in butter to a pale brown. Fill with compote of 
fruit; or with minced fowl, ham, and tongue; or with 
oysters, mushrooms, etc. 

EEL PATTIES. 

Skin and wash some middle-sized eels, and after hav- 
ing cut them into pieces 1 inch long, soak in salt and 
water one hour; when drained, put them into a stew-pan 
with just enough hot water to cover them; add salt, 
pepper, a blade of mace, a little lemon peel, and a sprig 
of parsley; when the fish will separate from the bone, 
after ten minutes gentle stewing, divide each piece into 
two, puting them aside until the broth has stewed a 
little longer, when remove the lemon-peel, mace, etc.; 
thicken with butter and a little flour; flavor with lemon- 
juice or vinegar, and return the pieces of eel to the 
broth. 

EGG VOL-AU-VENTS. 

Mince two truffles; put them into a stew-pan with two 
tablespoons of thick cream ; add four eggs that have 
boiled twenty minutes, chopped fine; season with salt, 
pepper and nutmeg; when the mixture has simmered five 
minutes, fill the cases and serve hot. 

FISH PATTIES. 
Pick from the shell of a crab all that is good ; pound 
it in a morter with a small quantity of bread-crumbs, 
and a seasoning of white-pepper, cayenne, salt and 
nutmeg; add a little gravy, which thicken with butter 
rolled in flour; make it hot and squeeze in a little lemon 



100 PATTIES, VOL-AU-VENTS. 

juice. Have ready a wall of mashed potatoes round the 
iiiEer rim of a flat dish, 2^ inches high; smooth and 
ornament it with leaves, flowers, etc.; this can be done 
with a tin-cutter, and, if egged and browned in the oven, 
will have a pretty appearance. Fill the centre with the 
fricassee, and salamander. 

Small patties may be made and filled with this 

iri09.SS6P 

FOWL or GAME PATTIES. 
Take the breast and flesh of chickens, etc. ; pass the 
meat twice through a mincing machine at fine tension; 
then through a wire tammy, using a little white stock 
to help it through; season. Mix ^ ft), of mince to 1 pt. 
whipped cream ; warm up ; fill the cases three-fourths 
full; whip the whites of eggs to a stiff foam, and season 
with salt; color green with parsley juice; put a cone of 
this over each patty and warm in the oven; but be 
careful not to let the egg mixture brown or change color, 
or the beauty of the dish will be lost. Place on a hot 
plate covered with a lace paper; garnish with crimson 
or red flowers, and serve. 

GAME PATTIES (1). 
Proceed with any kind of game, as for veal patties. 

GAME PATTIES (2). 
Make a nicely-flavored mince of the remains of game; 
moisten with a little gravy; warm the mince in a sauce- 
pan, put a little in the centre of each patty, and serve 
hot, piled on a napkin. 

HAM AND CHICKEN PATTIES. 
Take two-thirds chicken and one-third ham, freed 
from sinew and skin; mince finely and season with 



PATTIES, VOL-AU-VENTS. 101 

greated lemon-peel, salt aud cayenne; put the meat into 
a saucepan with good gravy, sufficient to moisten it; 
sqeeze over it a few drops of lemon juice. 

KEDGEREE PATTIES. 

Boil a little rice, Indian fashion, showing the separate 
grains; take the fish from the bones of some yesterday's 
ilsh, and mince it. Boil some eggs hard, let cool, shell 
and mince them also. Fry chopped onion in a stewpan, 
with some butter; stir curry powder into it to taste, 
also salt. Have equal quantities of fish, rice and eggs. 
Put them into the stewpan, and stir them up into the 
curry; then cover with milk, boil up with a lump of roux 
stirred in, set to the usual consistency, and fill into 
patty-cases. 

LEMON PATTIES. 

Rub the rind of a fresh lemon with 3 ozs. loaf sugar; 
crush it to powder, and mix with finely grated bread- 
crumbs; pour over the mixture \ pt. boiling milk, and 
soak for an hour; then stir in 2 ozs. clarified butter and 
2 well beaten eggs. Butter some small cups; fill them 
rather more than half full with the mixture, and bake; 
when done, turn out on a hot dish and serve with wine 
sauce. 

LOBSTER PATTIES. 
A hen lobster should be had. Put some of the spawn 
or coral into a mortar, or cut smooth and fine with a 
knife; add butter, and when well mixed, rub through a 
sieve and put in the sauce. Chop the meat of the lob- 
ster rather fine and add to the sauce, with a little 
essence of anchovy and a little cayenne. Make all hot, 
and fill the cases. 



102 PATTIES, VOL-AU VENTS. 



MA.RROW PATTIES (I). 
The only marrow fit for this purpose is that takeu 
from llie bones in the rump. Empty this and chop up the 
marrow; add pepper and salt, a little cream and a beaten 
egg. Line patty pans with puff-paste as follows: Roll 
it out very thin; cover the pans once all over; cut strips 
about 1 in. wide; moisten the edges of the paste already 
on, and lay three rows of strip paste, one over the other, 
moistening each row slightly. Fill the hollow centre with 
the marrow mixture. Put on a thin coat of paste and 
bake in a quick oven. 

MARROW PATTIES (2). 
Take the marrow from the bone, cut it up and parboil 
in salt and water for one minute; drain and season with 
pepper, salt, lemon juice and chopped parsley (a bit of 
shalot if desired) ; toss these ingredients lightly together 
until hot; till the cases and serve. 

MUTTON PATTIES (1). 

Line some tartlet pans with a good paste; take an 
equal weight of lean mutton from the fillet, and fat bacon, 
which pound together; season with salt, spice and 
cayenne. Place a round ball of the meat into each 
patty-pan; cover with paste, and make a small hole in 
the centre; bake in a quick oven, and pour into each 
patty, through a funnel, a little well seasoned gravy or 
glaze, before the patties get cold. 

MUTTON PATTIES (2). 
Cut the lean part of a loin of mutton into very small 
squares; season with chopped mushrooms, parsley and 
shalot, pepper and salt, and a little brown sauce or 



PATTIES, VOL-AU- VENTS. 103 

gravy ; mix all together in a basin. Fill the preparred 
patty pans. 

OYSTEK PATTIES (1). 

Plump and beard 2 or 3 doz. oysters; mix very smoothly 
a teaspoon of fkrnr with 1 oz. butter, put them in a clean 
saucepan, shake them round over a gentle fire, letting 
them simmer two or three minutes; throw in a little salt, 
pounded mace and cayenne; then add, by slow degrees, 
two or three spoonfuls of rich cream; give these a boil, 
and pour in the strained liquor of the oysters; next lay 
in the oysters, and keep at the boiling point for a couple 
of minutes. Raise the covers of the patties, take out the 
bread, fill them with oysters and their sauce, and replace 
the covers. 

It is an improvement to stew the beards of the oysters 
with a strip or two of lemon peel in a little good veal 
stock for J hour, then to strain and add it to the sauce. 
The patties should be made small, with a thin crust, and 
well filled with the oysters and their sauce. The substi- 
tution of fried crumbs for the cover will vary them 
agreeably. 

Oyster patties may be served either hot or cold, and 
should be sent to table piled high on a napkin. They 
may be baked in patty pans if liked; when so made, line 
the pans with a good puff-paste, rolled out thin, put a 
crust of bread in each, lay on the cover, brush the top 
with beaten egg, and bnke in a quick oven; when done, 
remove the covers, take out the bread, fill with oyster 
mixture, lay the covers on again, and serve. 

OYSTER PATTIES (2). 
Line small patty pans with a fine puft'-paste; fill each 
of them with bread crumbs, and cover with paste. Chop 



104 PATTIES, VOL-AU-VENTS, 

oysters into bits, put them into a saucepan with a little 
grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, a little cream, a little of 
the oyster liquor, and a small lump of butter. Take the 
bread crumbs out of the patties and fill them with the 
oysters, after simmering them for a few moments, and 
serve hot. 

OYSTER VOL-AU-VENTS. 
Beard 3 doz, oysters; put the liquor into a saucepan 
with the beards, mace, nutmeg and pepper, adding the 
rind of half a lemon and the strained juice; boil up; knead 
3 ozs. of butter with a spoonful of baked flour, and stir 
in; boil till it is reduced to ^ pt. ; strain; add the oysters, 
simmer five minutes, and stir in 1 gill very thick cream; 
fill the cases and serve. 

PATTTES DE CREME DE VOLAILLE, 

Make a puree of fowl, cooked in milk (no salt). Use 
the milk in passing the puree through the tammy; put 
the whole over the fire in saucepan, with two tablespoon- 
fuls of desiccated white vegetable soup; stir till the puree 
is quite thick, then season with salt. Have pufi'-paste 
cases ready ; three parts fill with the puree; decorate the 
top with white of egg, whipped to a stiff foam, colored 
with saffron, spinach, cochineal, etc.; season with salt, 
and dry in the oven, but do not color. Set on stands, 
with lace-paper under the pastry, and a centre-piece of 
flowers rising out the middle of the stand. 

PETITS PATTIES. 

Cut some chicken in dice; put it into a saucepan with 

some Becherael sauce, well seasoned with ashalot; reduce 

it a little and let it get cold. Line some patty pans with 

rather thin puff-paste; put a little of the meat in each. 



PATTIES, VOL-AU-VENTS. 105 

Spi'iukle them over with bread crumbs and bits of but- 
ter. Bake 20 minutes in a quick oven. 

PIGEON VOL-AU-VENTS, 

Divide two freshly killed pigeons into neat joints. 
Put two veal sweetbreads into a saucepan, cover with 
luke-warm watex', and set over the fire till the water 
boils; lift them out and plunge at once into cold water; 
cut them into neat pieces of uniform shape and size, and 
bind them securely together with twine. Put the sweet- 
breads with the pigeon, into a stewpan, pour a cupfull of 
water over them, adding an onion, a bunch of parsley, a 
bay leaf, a slice of fat bacon, ^ oz. butter rolled in flour, 
pepper and salt; simmer gently an hour; remove the 
twine from the sweetbreads, strain and thicken the gravy, 
if necessary; fill the Vol-au-Vents. The sauce must be 
very thick or it will soften the light paste. 

PIGEON-PATE, CHAUD. 

Boil 4 ozs. lard in J pt. water; stir while hot with 1 Jb. 
flour and a little salt, and work the whole into a stiff, 
smooth paste; shape § of it as for raised pies, fill with 
bran or flour; roll out the remainder, place on top as a 
lid, ornament, egg and bake; when done enough cut out 
the lid, remove bran, and fill with stewed pigeons; put 
with them stewed mushrooms, or any other garnish, and 
pour a little poivrade sauce over the whole; serve as hot 
as possible. 

The shells may be made and baked the day before 
wanted, and put into the oven to heat, when the pigeons 
are ready for serving. 

PODOVIES. 
See Beef Patties. 



106 PATTIES, VOL-AU-VENTS. 

POTATO PATTIES. 

Take as many large well-shaped potatoes as it is 
intended there should be patties; wash well and bake; 
take them out before quite done enough, so that the skins 
may not be injured, and carefully cut gff the top, and 
scoop out the inside with a spoon; mix with the floury 
part a little thick cream, a piece of butter and a pinch of 
salt, together with sugar, lemon or cinnamon flavoring, 
and the yolks and whites of 2 or 3 eggs, beaten and 
added separately. Put this mixture into the hollow 
potatoes; place them upright, side by side in a buttered 
dish, and bake in a hot oven. 

If liked, savory patties can be made by mixing with 
the potato flour a little pounded veal and ham, cream, 
salt, pepper, lemon peel, grated nutmeg, and mushroom 
catsup. 

EABBIT PATTIES. 

Free from skin and sinew the white meat from a cold- 
dressed rabbit; mince finely with portions of suet. 
Bruise the bones, put them into a stewpan with salt, 
pepper, grated nutmeg and lemon peel; let simmer until 
the gravy is pleasantly flavored; thicken with flour and 
butter, and stew the mince in this till quite hot. 

RABBIT PATE. 

Bone and cut in pieces two young rabbits. Chop 
small I lb. each fresh pork and veal fat; mix with a laurel 
leaf,ashalot, thyme and parsley (finely shred), pepper, salt 
and powdered cloves. Lay the rabbits and minced meat 
in a pie-dish lined with slices of fat bacon: pour a glass 
of brandy over the whole, and cover the top with slices 
bacon; bake, and when done enough, serve the pate in a 



PATTIES, VOJj-AU-VENTS. 107 

flat dish, garnished round the edges with slices of pickled 
beet-root, or pickled capsiunis. 

SHRIMP PATTIES (1). 

Pick the shrimps and cut the tails in two pieces. Put 
the heads and shells into a saucepan and boil gently with 
sufficient water to extract the flavor; thicken the liquor 
with arrowroot, egg yolks or floui-, to the consistency of 
cream; moisten the shi'imps' tails with the same; season 
with salt (if necessary), cayenne, grated nutmeg or 
scraped horse-radish, or 2 or 3 pounded anchovies; or 
the seasoning may be omitted if liked. Fill the cases 
while the preparation is hot. 

Sometimes shrimp patties are served with bread- 
crumbs sprinkled over them, and without the pastry 
covers. 

SHRIMP PATTIES (2). 

Proceed with shrimp as for lobster patties; the shrimps 
of course are not cut up; color with lobster coral or a 
few drops of prepared carmine. 

SHRIMP VOL-AU- VENTS; BOUCHEES. 

Use same preparation as for Shrimp Patties. 

SWEETBREAD VOL-AU-VENTS. 

Soak two large fine sweetbreads in water for a couple 
of hours; boil them quickly for 10 minutes, and throw 
them into cold water; when cool, dry them perfectly, cut 
them into small pieces, and dredge with flour. Melt 2 
ozs. butter in a saucepan, put in the pieces of sweetbread, 
add one-third pint white stock, the strained juice of a 
lemon, 2 tablespoons of sherry or Madeira, a bunch of 
sweet herbs, the thin rind of ^ lemon, half a blade of 



108 PATTIES, VOL,-AU-VENTS. 

mace, two cloves, pepper, salt and grated nutmeg; let 
the sauce boil up once, skim, and let the sweetbreads 
simmer gently until done; take them up, strain the sauce, 
and mix with it gradually the yolks of two eggs, beaten 
up with sufficient cream; stir the sauce over the fire a 
minute or two, but do not let boil. 

This dish will be much improved if a few mushrooms 
and browned potatoes are added, in the shape of balls, 
when the Vol-au-Vent cases must be at least sis inches in 
diameter. 

TURBOT PATTIES or VOL-AU-VENTS. 

Take the white meat of the turbot freed from skin and 
bone; mince finely and season with pepper and salt. Put 
into the stewpan a few spoonsful of thick cream; 
thicken by boiling with butter rolled in flour; when 
quite hot put the minced fish into it that it may also 
heat. 

TURKEY PATTIES. 

Mince very finely a little of the white meat of a cold 
dressed turkey, adding a small proportion of grated ham; 
stew this gently for a minute or two in as much melted 
butter or goodgravj^as will barely cover it; add a spoon- 
ful of thick cream; season with grated lemon-rind, white 
pepper, salt and powdered mace. 

VEAL AND HAM PATTIES. 
Mince finely 6 ozs. lean veal and 3 ozs. dressed ham. 
Put J pt, cream and ^ pt. white stock into a saucepan; 
thicken this sauce with white roux or with a small piece 
of butter rolled in flour; simmer till it is smooth and 
coats the spoon; add pepper, salt, cayenne, and a flavor- 
ing of grated nutmeg and lemon rind with a little lemon 



I 



I 



PATTIES, VOIi-AU-VENTS. 109 

juice. Put in the minced meat and simmer gently, stir 
all the time till quite hot; it must not boil or it will be 
hard. 

VEAL PATTIES (1). 
Boil I ft), veal cutlet till firm; save the liquor; chop 
the veal fine and add to white sauce. Reduce the reserved 
liquor one half, then add to the sauce with cayenne and 
salt. The sauce must not be too thin. A little essence, 
or a small portion of ham, chopped very fine, is a great 
improvement; a few drops of lemon juice may also be 
added. 

VEAL PATTIES (2). 

Mince first separately, and afterwards together -^ ft). 
lean veal and 2 ozs. ham; add a tablespoon flour, a little 
grated Parmesan, the rind of a grated lemon, grated 
nutmeg, pepper and salt. Put tlie mince into a sauce- 
pan with strong veal stock that will jelly when cold, to 
moisten it; stir over a gentle fire ^ hour; add cream and 
lemon juice. 

VEAL PATTIES (3). 

Mince -J lb. dressed lean veal free from skin and fat, and 
^ doz. oysters separately; moisten with veal stock which 
will jelly when cold; mix with it two tablespoons of thick 
cream, the oyster liquor, and a little grated lemon rind. 
Put the sauce with the mince into a saucepan, and 
let it get quite hot; put in the oysters for ^ minute, and 
serve. 

VEAL PATTIES (4). 

Cut into strips 1 lb. dressed lean veal free from skin 
and gristle ; mince finely with | lb. lean ham. Put the 
bones and trimmings of the veal into a saucepan with 1 



110 PATTIES, VOL AU-VENTS. 

pt. water, a bunch of parsley, ^ doz. peppercorns, a blade 
of mace, and a little thin lemon rind; simmer for an 
hour or more till strong and pleasantly flavored; 
strain, let get cold and free from fat. Put the minced 
veal into a saucepan with as much gravy as will moisten 
it; add a little cream and a piece of butter rolled in 
flo ^.r; stir the mince over a gentle fire till hot and smooth. 
If preferred the mince may be baked in the cases; but 
it is best to bake the pastrv separately, as the mince 
hardens in baking. 

VEAL PATTIES— FRIED. 

Mince ^ ft>. dressed lean veal and J lb. ham; season 
with salt, cayenne, grated lemon rind and nutmeg; mix 
with a hard boiled egg chopped small; moisten with 
stock that forms a strong jelly when cold; add a little 
cream. Roll out thin some good pastry; place on this 
little mounds of mince about 1 inch apart; place over all 
a piece of pastry stamp the covered mounds out in 
patties with a round cutter; moisten the edges and 
press the pastry together round the mince. When 
wanted, drop the patties into hot fat and fry a light 
brown; drain and serve on a napkin garnished with 
parsley. 

If preferred, these patties may be baked in a moderate 
oven. 

VEAL VOL-AU-VENTS. 

Cut some lean veal into small thin round slices; beat 
with a cutlet bat and fry till lightly browned; cover with 
rich brown thick gravy, highly flavored; put with them a 
few fried forcemeat balls, and serve the Vol-au- Vents on 
a napkin. 



PATTIES, VOL-AU-VENTS. Ill 

Small Vol-au-Veuts may be filled with the savory pre- 
parations recomended for veal patties. 

VEGETABLE PATTIES. 
Prepare a macedoine of vegetables; moisten with nicely 
flavored white sauce. 

VENISON PATTIES. 
Chop cold bits of venison, and heat with some of the 
gravy; season with pepper and salt; fill some patty pans 
and cover the top with crust; bake brown. 



CHAPTEK VIII. 
Savors Boiled Puddings. 

(For the method of preparing Suet and Butter Pastes — also 
preparation of pudding basin etc., see Part II, page 36). 

BEEF STEAK PUDDING. 

Cut and flatten some rump steak, with a moderate 
proportion of fat; season with pepper, salt and fine herbs; 
fill a lined pudding basin with it; add a little good stock, 
cover with paste; tie over with a cloth and boil 3^ hours. 

BEEF STEAK AND OYSTER PUDDING. 

Cut some fillets of beef into thin slices; season and 
put them into the prepared basin, in alternate layers, 
with 3 doz. oysters; add some stock and finish as above. 

CALVES' HEAD PUDDING. 

Stamp out with a round cutter some pieces of calves* 
head, which has been previously dressed; mix with 1 pt. 
brown sauce, reduced with two glasses of sherry; add to 
this 1^ doz. balls of veal etc. quenelle, cooked in stock; 
put into a prepared basin and boil 2^ houi's. 

CALVES' HEART D'UXELLES PUDDING. 

Roast a calf's heart in buttered paper; when done 
and cold, take the best parts and out into convenient 
pieces; then sweat some prepared mushrooms, three 
shalots, and some parsley, all chopped fine, in ^ ft butter, 
over the tire; add 5 yolks of eggs and a couple spoons- 
ful of brown sauce; mix, season etc.; boil 2i hours. 



SAVORY BOILED PUDDINGS. 113 

CALVES' TONGUE A.ND BRAIN PUDDING. 

Wash aiid remove the outer skins from six c.ilvcs' 
brains, and boil them in vinegar and water; egg and 
bread crumb with fine herbs, and bake on a buttered 
cutlet-pan in the oven for ^ hour; cut up two cooked 
calves' tongues in slices; place them round the lined 
basin; fill the center with the brains and some reduced 
white sauce; finish and boil 1^ hours. 

CUERY CALVES' FEET PUDDING. 

Make a good curry of two calves' feet as follows: bone 
the feet and boil them in water till nearly done; chop 
up four onions very fine and fry them in \ lb. butter ; 
add 2 tablespoons of curry powder, the calves' feet cut 
into convenient pieces, and some stock; season to taste; 
add a little cream, and set at the corner of the stove, 
stirring occasionally until done; put into a prepared 
basin, finish and boil 1-J houis. 

CHICKEN AND HAM PUDDING. 

Cut up two chickens into small pieces, and likewise a 
proportiuate quantity of ham cut rather thin; place this 
in prepared basin in alternately seasoned layers; add 
some chicken broth; finish and boil 2 hours. 

EEL PUDDING. 

Skin and cut two large eels into inch lengths, season- 
ing with pepper, salt and chopped parsley; fry in a cut- 
let-pan with butter; put them in some brown sauce, re- 
duced with fine herbs, and a couple glasses of sherry; 
put the whole into prepared basin, finish and boil 2 
hours. 

FROG PUDDING. 

Put a canister full of prepared frogs into pudding 



114 SAVORY BOILED PUDDINGS. 

basin with some prepared mushrooms, and ^ doz. truffles 
cut in slices; mix with ^ pt. reduced white sauce; finish 
and boil 1^ hours. 

GIBLET PUDDING. 

Cut and prepare a set of goose giblets; boil them 
until tender, in broth flavored with a bouquet of vege- 
tables and a little fresh basil; line a prepared basin with 
pieces of fillet of beef seasoned; season the giblets, mix 
them with some brown sauce, and put in the center of 
the pudding; finish and boil 2 hours. 

GROUSE PUDDING. 
Fillet eight grouse; saute in a cutlet-pan with 3 oz. 
butter, some prepared mushrooms chopped, pepper and 
salt; add to this while hot, three yolks of eggs; mix 
with the raw fillets; put into prepared basin with a little 
gravy; fimsh and boil 1| hours. 

HARE PUDDING. 

Fill the pi'epared basin with the fillets of two fine 
hares, cut into scallops and seasoned; 1 doz. button onions 
blanched and slightly fried or passed in butter, some 
prepared mushrooms, a little red currant jelly, 2 ozs. 
melted glaze, and some stock; finish and boil 2 hours. 

IRISH STEW PUDDING. 
Make a good Irish stew; put it when cold into pre- 
pared basin ; and boil 2 hours. 

KIDNEY PUDDING. 
Fill a prepared basin with about 1^ doz. sheeps' kid- 
neys, skinned, cut into slices, dipped into clarified butter, 
and seasoned with fine herbs, pepper, salt and lemon 
juice; finish and boil 3 hours. 



SAVORY BOILED PUDDINGS. 115 

KIDNEY AND BEEF PUDDING. 
Fry in butter, enough bullock's kidney, cut into thin 
Flices, to half fill the pudding, and place it in prepared 
basin, with alternate layers of fillet of beef cut thiu, and 
seasoned with pepper and salt, fine herbs, and a little 
lemon juice; add some stock, and boil 2| hours. 

LAMB AND GREEN PEAS PUDDING. 

Line a prepared basin with nicely seasoned neat pieces 
cut from a small leg of lamb; fill the centre with boiled 
green peas, adding some white sauce, and a layer of the 
lamb on top; finish and boil 1^ hours. 

LAMB'S TAIL PUDDING. 

Cut and prepare the tails as for ox tail pudding, 
finishing as follows: Reduce 1 pt. white sauce, flavored 
slightly with fresh basil and a glass of sherry; season and 
boil 1-J hours. 

LARK PUDDING. 

Saute 3 doz. larks in a cutlet pan with butter and fine 
herbs; cut with a circular cutter 1^- doz. rounds of raw 
ham; place all in a prepared basin, season, add some 
stock ; finish and boil 2 hours. 

iMvk Diimj^lings. — Bone 1 doz. larks; stuff them with 
quenelle, and a small trufile in the centre of each; enclose 
each one in suet or butter paste; tie up in cloths; boil and 
serve with half glaze. 

LIVER AND BACON PUDDING. 

Cut some calf's liver in thick slices, saute or fry them 
in a buttered cutlet pan for a few minutes, with some 
fine herbs; cut them into convenient pieces and place 
them in alternate layers, with a proportionate quantity 



IIG SAVORY BOILED PUDDINGS. 

of bacon, in a prepared basin; add ^ pt, brown sauce, re- 
duced; finish and boil 2 hours. 

MACKEREL PUDDING. 

Take one or two mackerel; thoroughly cleau thera, 
removing the heads, fins and tails; cut into blocks of about 
2 inches; take a quarter of the weight of fish in pickled 
pork, rather fat, cut it into dice, and season with pepper, 
salt and parsley, or a little fennel; put into a prepared 
mould, and boil an hour or more. 

MUTTON PUDDING. 

Cut up some of the lean, and a proportionate quantity 
of the fat of a loin of mutton into convenient pieces; 
season each piece; fill a prepared basin; sprinkle some 
fine herbs on top; add some stock; finish and boil 2 
hours. 

MUTTON PUDDING— HARICOT. 

Fill a prepared basin with 1 doz n eat braized mutton 
cutlets, and the same of boiled turnips cut into the 
same shape; season; add brown sauce; finish and boil 1^ 
hours. 

OX CHEEK PUDDING. 

Boil an ox cheek in stock till tender; when cold, trim, 
bone and cut into square pieces; boil 1^ doz. button 
onions, and the saineof carrots and turnips cut out with 
the vegetable scoop; fry in butter, and mix these vegeta- 
bles with the pieces of cheek and about \ ft), glaze; put 
into a prepared basin, with a little stock; finish and boil 
2i hours; serve with strong gravy. 

OX TAIL PUDDING. 
Cut two ox tails into pieces, stew them until tender in 



SAVORY BOILED PUDDINGS. 117 

weak broth, remove the meat from the bone, and add to 
1 pt. brown sauce, reduced to nearly one-half; mix with 
two glasses sherry, and some prepared mushrooms, 
sliced; season to taste; place in prepared basin; boil 2^ 
hours. 

PARTRIDGE PUDDING. 
Proceed with three partridges, as for Pheasant Pudding. 

PHEASANT PUDDING. 
Trim and cut two pheasants into members, putting 
the backs into a stewpan with a little stock; draw a good 
essence over the fire from this; strain and add two glasses 
of sherry; season the members, and pat all together in 
prepared basin; finish and boil 2 hours. 

PIG'S FEET PUDDING. 

Prepare and boil some pig's feet, reserving the large 
bones; reduce some white sauce, adding chopped parsley 
and the finished feet; season and fill prepared basin; 
boil 1^ hours. 

PIGEON PUDDING. 
Trim eight or ten pigeons; cut them in half, and pro- 
ceed as for grouse pudding, with the exception of fillet- 
ing them. 

QUAIL PUDDING. 
Cut up the remnants of quail which may have been 
left from dinner; season; put them into a reduced 
brown sauce; fill a prepared basin; finish and boil 1^ 
hours. 

RABBIT AND PORK PUDDING 
Cut up a young rabbit; well season some neatly 
trimmed pork cutlets; place them in layers with some 



118 SAVORY BOJLED PUDDINGS. 

streaky bacon, in prepared basin and a little chopped 
onion fried in butter; liuish and boil 3 hours. 

EAGOUT PUDDING. 

Fill the prepared basin with the following mixture: 
put into ^ pt. brown sauce, two throat sweetbreads, 
blanched, skinned, and cut into pieces; ^ ib. cock's 
combs, boiled tender; the yolks of ^ doz. eggs, boiled 
hard; some prepared mushrooms; six slices of cooked 
ox tongue, and the same of ham, cut with a circular 
cutter; and three truffles, sliced; finish and boil 11 
hours. 

KOMAN PUDDING. 

Butter a basin and line it with boiled macaroni, round 
like a beehive; have ready veal, ham, tongue, chicken or 
cold game, all cut very finely; 1 oz. Parmesan cheese, 
nutmeg, salt, pepper; lemon peel and cayenne, 2 eggs 
and a cupful of cream; mix altogether, and fill the 
basin; boil -J hour, glaze and serve with brown sauce. • 

RICHELIEU PUDDING. 

Take 1 ft), cold meat, 2 oz. fat or suet, chopped fine; 
have ready some bread previously soaked in milk, a 
little chopped parsley, thyme, lemon peel, pepper and 
salt; mix well together with 2 well-beaten eggs; butter 
a mould, fill and boil 3 hours; turn out on a dish and 
serve with white or brown sauce. It is equally good 
when eaten cold. 

SAUSAGE PUDDING. 

Take 2 ft)S. pork sausage; remove the skins, form 
them into balls; beat up on a plate one egg with fine 
herbs, pepper and salt; roll the balls into this, and fry 



SAVORY BOILED PUDDINGS. 119 

them of a light brown; fill prepared basin with them; 
add a little brown sauce; finish and boil 1| hours. 

SHEEP'S TONGUE AND BRAIN PUDDING. 

Proceed as for Calves' Tongue and Brain pudding, 
using more of the sheep's in proportion. 

SMALL BIRD PUDDING. 
Pick and clean 1 lb. small birds, larks, sparrows, etc.; 
slightly fry or saute them in a cutlet-pan, with herb 
mixture and a pat of butter; place them in a prepared 
basin with ^ ft. rump steak, and some fat bacon cut up 
thin; season, add a little stock, finish and boil 2| hours. 

SNIPE PUDDING. 
Cut ten snipes in half, remove the trail, place the snipes 
on a dish, and season with cayenne, salt and lemon 
juice; chop and fry two onions in a little butter, when 
rather brown, mix in a dessert spoon of flour; stir over 
the fire two minutes, then add some fine herbs, and 
moisten with ^ pt. port wine; boil this almost five min- 
utes, and then add the trail; put the snipes into pre- 
pared basin, add a little stock and the mixture; finish 
and boil 2 hours. 

SQUAB PUDDING (DEVONSHIRE). 

Cut tlie mutton from the Join, with a proportionate 
quantity of fat; fill prepared basin with this, in alternate 
layers, with sliced onions and apples; season each layer 
with pepper, salt and sugar, (sugar to predominate); add 
a little clear stock; finish and boil 2^ to 3 hours. 

SQUAB PUDDING (SOMERSETSHIRE). 
Proceed as above, subslutitiug pork for mutton, and 
adding a little sage to the other seasonings. 



120 SAVORY BOILKD PUDDINGS. 

SWEETBREAD PUDDING. 

Blanch four veal throat sweetbreads; skin, cut them 
into pieces and put them into a buttered cutlet-pan, 
with prepared mushrooms chopped fine; fry for a few 
minutes; fill a prepared basin, add a little stock and two 
glasses of sherry ; finish and boil 2 hours. 

TENDRON AND GREEN PEAS PUDDING. 

Place a dish of tendrons, after being well seasoned, 
into a prepared basin, with some fresh boiled green peas, 
and a little white sauce; finish and boil 2 hours. 

THREE DECKER PUDDING. 

Line a pudding basin with suet paste; put at the 
bottom a layer of mutton cut up and seasoned; put a 
little stock to this, and cover with a thin layer of the 
paste; on the top of this put a layer of pork cut 
up and seasoned, with the addition of a little sage 
and chopped onion; add some stock, and cover with a 
thin layer of paste as before; lastly, put in a layer of 
fillet of beef cut up and seasoned; add some stock to 
this, cover in and boil 3 hours. 

TRIPE PUDDING. 

Cut into square pieces 2 lbs. of the rich part of tripe, 
cook it in milk; when done, strain off; reduce 1 pt. white 
sauce to half; add to this a puree of onion, and then mix 
in the tripe with a little of the milk; put into prepared 
basin and boil 2^ hours. 

VEAL AND HAM PUDDING. 

Take 2 flbs. fillet of veal, cut into thin scallops, and put 
into prepared basin, with a proportionate quantity of 
slices of ham; cut neatly, and fill in alternate layeis with 



SAVORY BOILED PUDDINGS. 121 

the veal, and fine herbs, pepper and salt; add ^ doz. 
spoonsful white sauce; boil 3^ hours. 

VENISON PUDDING. 

Boil some of the best parts of a neck of venison; cut 
it in slices and lard it coarsely with pieces of fat bacon, 
rolled in chopped pars!©}^; place the pieces, seasoned well, 
into a prepared basin; add a little stock, some red 
currant jelly, and a little game glaze melted; finish and 
boil 2 hours. 

YACHT PUDDING. 

Cut small rounds of pieces of the salt round of beef, the 
same of veal and mutton cut from the neck, a duck cut 
Up small, some pickled pork and onions, and potatoes in 
slices; mix the whole well together; season highly; put 
into prepared basin; add ^ lb. glaze melted and diluted 
with water; finish and boil 3 hours. 



CHAPTEE IX. 

VEGETABLE AND GARNISH, ETC., 
PUDDINGS. 

BEETROOT AND ONION PUDDING. 
Fry two rather large finely chopped onioBS in a stew- 
pan, with 3 ozs. butter and some grated horse-radish; 
when of a light brown color, remove it from the fire, and 
add two boiled beetroots chopped fine; season with salt, 
pepper and mustard; mix this with Yorkshire pudding 
batter (see below), and finish as there directed; sei've 
with roast beef. 

BRUSSELS SPROUT PUDDING. 
Proceed as for cabbage pudding; dish and garnish 
with a few Brussels sprouts, reserved for the purpose. 

CABBAGE PUDDING. 

Boil two cabbages; press them on a sieve; take out the 
stalk and chop fine; put it over the fire with 2 ozs. 
butter, 2 ozs. glaze, a teaspoon of sugar, pepper and salt 
to taste; remove from the fire; add 4 yolks of eggs; 
steam in a prepared mould until perfectly set, and serve 
with half glaz3, as a second course, or garnish vegetable 
pudding. 

CARROT PUDDING. 
Boil the red part of ten or twelve carrots; when done, 
press and chop them very fine; put into a stewpan over 
the fire, with 3 ozs. butter, a little sugar, pepper and 



I 



VEGETABLE AND GARNISH, ETC., PUDDINGS. ^^23 

salt; stir this over the fire for a few minutes, and finish 
as for cabbage pudding. 

CHEESE PUDDING. 
Mix with ^ lb. Cheshire cheese, grated, 2 eggs, half a 
dariole mould of clarified butter, one dariole mould of 
cream, and a spoonful of bread crumbs; mustard, salt 
and pepper to taste; bake in a small dish, lined with^ 
pufi^ paste. 

CHEESE PUDDING (Welch). 
Melt 1 ft), grated Cheshire cheese and one egg with old 
ale; mix in two tablespoons of bread crumbs, and a few 
bits of butter; salamander and serve. 

CHEESE PUDDING— MACARONI TIMBALE. 

Bnild a timbale of macaroni (Indian), and fill care- 
fully with the following: Thicken | pt. milk and -J pt. 
cream over the fire with 3 ozs. butter kneaded with flour; 
work this over the fire until it assumes a smooth paste; 
add J lb. grated Parmesan cheese, a spoonful of ready- 
made and anotber of French mustard; cayenne, pepper 
and salt, 4 yolks and 2 whites of eggs; steam. 

CHESTNUT GARNISH PUDDING. 

Peel, skin and boil in weak stock, about 1 doz. chest- 
nuts, pass them through a sieve into a stewpan, with 2 
ozs. butter, 1 gill cream and a lump of glaze; season to 
taste, and finish as for cabbage pudding, serving with 
turkey as a garnish pudding. 

CHICKEN PUDDING. 

CREME DE VOLAILLE. 

t^illet one large fowl, or two small ones; scoop the 
fillets away with a knife until they are reduced to a pulp; 



124 VEGETABLE AND GARNISH, ETC., PUDDINGS. 



pound the chicken pulp in a mortar with 1 oz. fresh 
butter; add to this the yolks of 4 or 5 eggs, one at a time, 
pass the whole through a fine wire seive; place it on the 
ice in a basin; stir in lightly | pt. whipped cream; then 
beat up the whites until they are stiff, and stir them 
lightly into the mixture; season to taste with salt and 
c lyenue; fill it into a plain buttered mould; place the 
mould in a stewpan with a little boiling water; let it 
steam at the corner of the stove, being careful not to let it 
boil; when set firm enough, turn it carefully out on its 
dish, and serve with a little half glaze poured round it. 

FISH PUDDING. 

Take 2 fts. of any cold fish, chop and pound it^ adding 
minced onion, parsley, prepared mushrooms, pepper, 
salt and 2 eggs; line a plain mould with slices of fat ba- 
con, put in the fish pudding, cover with fat bacon, and 
bake 1| hours; when done, turn it out on its dish, 
remove the bacon, and serve with brown sauce; or cold 
with marinade. 

FRENCH BEAN PUDDING. 

Cut two hundred french beans into diamonds; boil 
them very green; strain and put tbem into a cutlet pan, 
with a pat of butter, a little chopped parsley, and season 
to taste; pass over the fire for three or four minutes; put 
into about ^ pt. white sauce; add 6 yolks of eggs, and 
finish as for cabbage pudding. 

GAENISH PUDDING FOR ROAST GOOSE. 
Fry three finely chopped onions and the same of apples, 
with a pat of butter, sage, pepper and salt to taste; add 
this to Yorkshire pudding batter, and finish as there 
directed. 



VEQETABIiE AND GARNISH, ETC., PUDDINGS. 125 

GREEN PEAS PUDDING. 

Make a stiff puree of green peas; reduce the puree in 
a stewpan, with a piece of glaze, 2 ozs. butter, sugar, salt 
and pepper to taste; add to this, when off the fire, five 
yolks of eggs; line a prepared mould with green peas 
boiled carefully; fill in the puree; steam, and serve with 
white sauce, round the base. 

HAM GARNISH PUDDING. 

Take enough fried bread crumbs to half fill a prepared 
pudding mould; mix with this ^ ft), grated ham; put the 
whole in a basin, with 3 ozs. clarified butter, and a cold 
custard of sis yolks and four whites of eggs, and | pint 
cream; season; pour into the mould; steam, and serve 
with roast chicken, etc. 

JULIENNE PUDDING. 

Cut a quantity of Julienne roots as for soup; boil them 
for two minutes; strain, and fry them in a stewpan, with 
2 ozs. butter and a teaspoon of sugar; add | pt. white 
sauce; remove from the fire, add seven yolks of eggs, and 
finish as for cabbage pudding. 

MUSHROOM PUDDING. 

Cook sufiicient prepared mushrooms; chop them up 
very fine; mix with ^ pt. white sauce; stir in 8 yolks of 
eggs; season to taste, and finish as for cabbage pudding, 
serving with white sauce. 

ONION PUDDING. 

Boil 1| doz. onions; drain, pass and rub them through 
a wire sieve; put the puree into a stewpan, and stir it 
over the fire to evaporate the water; add | pt. double 
cream, still reducing it over the fire until it nearly 



126 VEGETABLE AND GARNISH, ETC., PUDDINGS. 

detaches from the sides; add 1 gill of white sauce; re- 
move from the fire; add 7 yolks of eggs, and finish as for 
cabbage pudding. 

OYSTER PUDDING. 

Take a round French loaf about the size of a pudding 
mould, cut the top off, scoop out the crumbs quite close 
to the crust, spread the outside of the case with butter, 
and a band of foolscap paper round it; place it in a bak- 
ing sheet, and fill in alternate layers — 6 doz. raw oysters, 
horned and bearded, and bread crumbs fried in butter of 
a light brown; bake 1|^ hours in a moderate oven, putting 
a few pieces of butter on the top; remove the paper, and 

serve hot. 

PEAS PUDDING. 

Boil I pt. split peas in a bag or cloth until soft; when 
done, turn out into a stewpan, and stir over the fire, with 
3 ozs. butter, and some mashed potatoes; season to taste; 
add 3 eggs; tie up in a buttered and floured cloth as an 
ordinary pudding; boil ^ hour, and serve with boiled pork. 

POTATO PUDDING (1). 
Mash some boiled potatoes firm; add 2 ozs. butter, 1 
gill double cream, salt and pepper to taste, and the yolks 
of 5 eggs; put into prepared mould; let it set in a mod- 
erate oven; turn it out on its dish; glaze it lightly, and 
pour Steward's sauce round the base. 

POTATO PUDDING (2). 

Mash some potatoes, adding a little milk; season to 
taste; put into a Yorkshire pudding tin, and finish as for 
Yorkshire pudding. 

RHUBARB GARNISH PUDDING. 
Skin, cut into pieces, and boil a bundle of rhubarb; 
drain on a sieve, press and put into a stewpan; evaporate 



I 



i 



VEGETABLE AND GARNISH, ETC., PUDDINGS. 127 

the water over the fire; add 2 oz^. butter, ^ gill cream, 
pepper, salt and sugar to taste; remove it; add 6 yolks of 
eggs, and finish as for cabbage pudding. 

SPINACH PUDDING. 
Boil, press and pass through a wire sieve some spinach 
as for a dish; put it into a stewpan over the fire and stir 
into it one gill double cream and a pat of fresh butter; 
season to taste with a little nutmeg, etc. ; remove from 
the fire and finish as for cabbage pudding. 

TONGUE GARNISH PUDDING. 
Proceed as for Ham Garnish Pudding, using grated 
tongue. 

TURNIP PUDDING. 

Boil and press as dry as possible eight or ten turnips; 
pass them through a sieve; stir them over the fire to ex- 
tract all the water; add ^ pint double cream, pepper, 
salt and sugar to taste; when sufficiently reduced, re- 
move from the fire; add ^ dozen yolks of eggs, and 
finish as for cabbage pudding, serving with white sauce. 

WINDSOR BEAN PUDDING. 
Boil and skin sufficient Windsor beans to make enough 
puree to fill a prepared mould; put the puree into a 
stewpan with 2 ozs. butter, a little lemon juice, chopped 
parsley, a piece of glaze and a half gill cream; season and 
finish as for cabbage pudding, serving with white sauce. 

YORKSHIRE PUDDING. 

Put inio a basin six ounces flour; mix four eggs in 
smoothly with a little milk; add 1^ pints milk, and a 
little salt; butter a Yorkshire tin ; make it hot; powr in 
the batter; place it under the roasting meat; brown on 
both sides; when done, cut into squares and dish; serve 
with roast beef. 



CHAPTEE X. 

Meat and Fish Batter Puddings. 

BATTER FOR BAKED MEAT PUDDINGS. 
Put about ^ ft) flour into a basiu; mix smooth with a 
little milk; add about 1 pint milk with 3 beat eggs, and 
pinch of salt; use according to recipes. 

CHICKEN BATTER PUDDING. 

Place at the bottom of a buttered pie dish, a chicken cut 
up into small pieces, and each piece dipped into clarified 
butter, and seasoned with pepper and salt; put a layer of 
cooked tongue at the top; fill up with batter and bake. 

CURRY BATTER PUDDING. 

Make a curry (see curry calfs' feet pudding); place it 
it in the bottom of a buttered pie dish, and fill up with a 
batter of ground rice boiled in milk, and a couple of beat 
eggs; put a few pieces of butter on the top and bake. 

FISH BATTER PUDDING. 
See tuvbot batter pudding. 

IRISH BATTER PUDDING. 

Put a layer of fillets of beef, seasoned with fine herbs, 
at the bottom of a buttered pie dish ; fill up with a batter 
of mashed potatoes, thinned with milk; season, add four 
eggs and bake. 



i 



MEAT AND FISH BATTER PUDDINGS. 129 



LAMBS' FRY BATTEE BUTTER PUDDING. 

Cut up a lambs' frj^ and place it at the bottom of a 
buttered pie dish; season and add some fine herbs to 
this; pour over it batter, and bake. 

LAMBS' HEAD AND MINCE BATTER PUDDING. 

Boil and bone two lambs' heads; place at the bottom 
of a buttered pie dish; parboil the liver; mince and add 
it to batter; season to taste; fill up with the batter and 
liver; bake. 

LIVER AND BACON BATTER PUDDING. 

Proceed as for lambs' fry batter pudding, using slices 
of calves' liver and bacon, in proportion. 

PIGS FRY BATTER PUDDING. 

Cut some pigs's fry into convenient pieces; lay it at 
the bottom of a buttered dish; season, pour over it 
batter, and bake. 

RABBIT BATTER PUDDING. 

Place at the bottom of a buttered pie dish two rabbits 
cut into joints, and seasoned with fine herbs, pepper and 
salt; cover with a layer of streaky bacon ; fill up with 
batter and bake. 

TOAD IN THE HOLE. 

Butter a pie dish, and place at the bottom 1^ lbs rump 
steak, beat with the cutlet chopper; spread with fine 
herbs, and fold into three; season well; pour over this 
the batter, and bake about an hour. 

TURBOT BATTER PUDDING. 
Form a thick batter with 1 ft) flour and 1 quart milk, 

9 



130 MEAT AND riSH BATTER PUDDINGS. 

two shalots, a bay leaf, chopped parsley, thyme, salt, 
pepper and grated nutmeg; stir and boil the batter over 
the fire until thick, then remove, stir in | lb butter and 
the yolks of 3 eggs; pass this through a tammy, and jjour 
some into the bottom of a buttered dish; place over this 
a layer of cold turbot, boned, then a layer of batter and 
fish in altei'nate layers, finishing with the batter; strew 
the top with grated Parmesan cheese, bake for 20 min- 
utes in a moderate oven; salamander and serve. 

All other Fish batter puddings may be made in the 
same manner. 



CHAPTER XI. 
Timbales. 

Timbales are French dishes, so named from timbale, a 
metal cup, because they are generally made in plain 
moulds, either round or oval. They are excellent and 
-pretty, but dififcult to make, as they require both care 
and practice; they resemble our raised pies. The outer 
case may be constructed of short paste, macaroni, rice 
or other substances, and they may be filled with any 
nicely flavored fricassee of fowl or game; or with fruit and 
sweetbreads. 

PASTE FOE HOT TIMABLES. 

This should be a little more delicate than for a cold pie, 
and therefore requii'es more butter. Take 1 lb flour, a 
little more than | ft> butter, 2 yolks of eggs and a pinch of 
salt; work with a half glassful of water, making the paste as 
smooth as possible; then proceed as follows: butter a 
plain mould all over; decorate the bottom a little and 
and the sides by using some of the same paste, and add- 
ing some pounded sugar, as the paste will take a trimmer 
shape; spread the paste over the board, cut a piece the 
size of the bottom of the mould (using the mould to 
measure with) and cover the bottom of the mould and all 
the decorations, without disturbing them; water the 
ornamented paste as above; stick the other paste lightly 
over, and cut a bit to put all round over the decorated 
parts; roll a little paste also to stick the whole together 
round the bottom; fill the mould with beef suet chopped 



132 TIMBALES. 



fine, and make a cover of the same length; bake and 
when done empty it for use. 

These timbale cases may be used for macaroni, fricassee, 
blanquettes of every kind, etc. 

SMALL TIMBALES. 

Butter a dozen dariole moulds thoroughly; cut with a 
round cutter trimmings of pufif-paste large enough to fill 
the mould; have a bit of paste the same form as the in- 
side of the mould, but not so large; put the round piece 
over the latter, let it fall all around and then introduce 
this into the mould; press equally everywhere with the 
fingers to keep the paste the same thickness; cut off all 
the paste above the rim, fill the mould with trimmings of 
paste, and put on a false cover to prevent the paste from 
taking a bad color; bake, and when done, empty the in- 
side, and garnish as desired. 

For pates aujus (with gravy), fill the inside with godi- 
veau (see godiveau pies) and bake with false covers; 
when done, take off the cover, open with a knife to let in 
a spoonful of Espagnol sauce, and cover with small 
covers made of pufi' paste ; serve hot. 

Small Timbales can be filled with any savory prepa- 
ration desired. They are also used for all sorts of en- 
trees; fruit, jelly, cream, truffles, etc. 

CAULIFLOWER TIMBALES. 

Cut the flowerets of three cauliflowers; boil them care- 
fully but not too much; place them in a cutlet pan with 
a pat of butter; pepper, salt and Parmesan cheese to 
taste; pass over the fire for a few minutes, and finish as 
macaroni timbale (1). 



TIMBALES. 133 



FRENCH TIMBALES. 

Line a round well-buttered mould with short paste; 
put a thin layer of forcemeat to correspond. Lard a 
piece of the fillet of veal, about 3 lbs, and cut in thick 
slices, across the grain; fill up the mould with alternate 
layers of the veal, small thin slices of boiled ham, and 
forcemeat, seasoning with herbs and spices. Roll out 
paste for a cover, even round the edges and securely 
close; pinch, ornament, egg and bake. When done and 
the heat has passed from it, pour in a thin glaze through 
the top, made from the bones and trimmings of the veal, 
and some jelly of calf's foot. 

INDIAN TIMBALES. 

Boil and dry about | ft rice, with the same weight of 
turbot, and 3 hard boiled egg minced up; moisten with 
white sauce, a spoonful of curry paste and half a gratad 
cocoanut; finish as macaroni timbale (1); garnish with 
with rice sprinkled with Parmesan. 

ITALIAN TIMBALES. 

Boil some Italian paste in consomme until done; finish 
as for macaroni timbale (1). 

LOBSTER TIMBALES. 

Proceed as for oyster timbales, Avith a lobster, cut up 
into small dice, adding a little essence of anchovy. 

MACARONI TIMBALES (1). 

Butter a round plain mould; stick all round the sides 
and bottom with some broken vermicelli; line with puff 
paste cuttings reduced with a little extra flour; fill the 
centre with flour and bake; when done take out the flour 



134 TIMBALES. 



and turn the case out the mould. Have some macaroni 
boiled and cut into inch lengths; put into a stewpan 
with some supreme sauce; add 2 yolks of eggs, \ ft Par- 
mesan cheese, a teaspoon mustard, salt and cayenne to 
taste; put over the fire for a few minutes; fill the timbale 
case and turn it over into its dish and serve. 

MACARONI TIMBALES (2). 

Cut some firm boiled macaroni into not quite | in. in 
length; build these round the bottom and sides of a pre- 
pared mould, with the open pipe against the mould, to 
represent when turned out, a honeycomb; line very care- 
fully with any quenelle, filling the centre with a mixture 
as for Richelieu Boudin (which see); cover in with 
quenelle; steam and serve with supreme sauce, round the 
base. 

A great variety may be made from. this. 

MACARONI TIMBALES (3). 

Honeycomb eight buttered dariole moulds as for mac- 
aroni timbale (2), cutting the macaroni much shorter; 
fill carefully with quenelle; steam and serve with supreme 
sauce; a salpicon may be introduced with care. 

MACARONI TIMBALES A LA MINUTE. 

Proceed as for macaroni timbale (2) only winding the 
macaroni round the bottom and sides of the mould, in- 
stead of honeycombing it. 

MACARONI TIMBALES— INDIAN. 

Proceed with some macaroni which has been tinged 
with saffron, as for macaroni timbales (2); line carefully 
with veal quenelle; fill the centre with a mince of calves' 



TIMKALKS. 135 

head curried (see Curry Calves' Feet Pudding) ; close over 
with quenelle; »team and serve with a curry aauce round 
the base, and rather a large spoonful of boiled rice at 
each end. 

MACEDOINE TIMBALPJH. 

Drain the liquor from a canister of mecedoine vegeta- 
bles, and finish as for macaroni timbale (1). 

MACKEKEL ROES TIMBALES. 

Take the soft roes of four large madcerel; (do not wash 
the fish, for the roes woukl turn black and soft); put 
them into melted butter, without any salt; cover with 
the butter and either bake or let them sweat on the stove, 
taking care not to let them break; when done, lay them 
on paper to drain; dust with salt and cut into neat 
small dice; finish, as usual, using Bechemel sauce. 

NOUILLE TIMBALEH. 

Make and blanch some nouilles, and finish as for Mac- 
aroni timbale (1). 

ORSINI BOMBS. 

Make ten timbales of macaroni, as for macaroni tim- 
ba^es (2), in dariole moulds; steam, dish, and mask with 
brown sauce. 

OYSTER TIMBAIiES. 

Take about 6 doz oysters; blanch them slightly, remove 
the beards; thicken ^ pt. cream with some arrowroot, 
and 2 yolks of eggs; season to taste, add the oysters to 
this, and fill; serve in timbale case, as for macaroni tin:.- 
bales (1). 



136 TIMBALES. 



PETITS CHOUX TIMBALES. 
Bake some petits choux, in the form of small balls; 
shortly before using throw them into some strong con- 
somme j boil up for a minute over the fire; flavor with 
Parmesan cheese, cayenne, pepper and salt; stiffen with 
arrowroot, and serve as for macaroni timbales (1). 

PRAWN TIMBALES. 

Prepare 50 fine prawn, and proceed as for oyster tim- 
bales, adding a little essence of shrimps. 

SPANISH TIMBALES. 
Peel and blanch 3 doz. button onions; put them into 
a cutlet pan with a pat of butter, a dust of sugar, and 1 
oz. grated Parmesan; fry of a light brown; prepare some 
mushrooms, drain and mix with the onions; put them 
into a stewpan with some brown sauce; thicken with 
three yolks of eggs, and serve as for macaroni timbale (1). 

VERMICELLI TIMBALES. 
Blanch enough vermicelli in consomme to fill the tim- 
bale case; finish as for macaroni timbales (1). 



CHAPTER XII. 

Savory Fritters (Beignets), Rissoles and 
Cromesques. 

Fritters should be dipped in batter (see part 2, chap- 
ter XI) and fried quickly in hot lard; drain and serve 
with a little cayenne and salt. 

Eissoles after being prepared according to recipes, are 
put in small portions into paste cut and finished as 
follows: Work some extra flour into trimmings of puff- 
paste; roll out very thin; stamp out with a 3f in, cutter; 
place a portion of the mixture into the middle of each 
round; egg the edge, and double into the form of a turn- 
over ; egg the rissoles, and roll them in broken vermicelli or 
bread crumbs; fry in hot lard; drain on paper, and serve 
on a napkin with fried parsley. 

BEEF AND GHERKIN RISSOLES. 
Cut some cold roast beef and four gherkins into small 
dice; put into some brown sauce reduced; spread on a 
plate to cool, and put small portions of the mixture in- 
to the paste ; finish as above. 

CALF'S HEAD FRITTERS. 
Cut some cold calf's head in rounds with a circular 
cutter; mask them in cold reduced brown sauce, flavored 
with a little fresh basil and sherry; season to taste, and 
finish as directed above. 



138 SAVORY FRITTKKS, RISSOLES, ETC. 

CHEESE FRITTERS. 

Make a petit cboux, season with 2 ozs. grated Par- 
mesan, a teaspoon of mustard, salt, cayenne, etc. to taste; 
form them into balls; fry ia hot lard until very light and 
thoroughly done; drain on paper, and serve with a dust 
of Parmesan. 

CHICKEN RISSOLES. 
Proceed as for turkey I'issoles with cold roast chicken, 
adding some cold ox tongue, cut into dice. 

Rabbit rissoles are j^repared in a similar manner. 

COD RISSOLES. 

Mince up some cold cod; put into white sauce, re- 
duced with a little elder vinegar, and sea^cred with 
cayenne and salt; finish as directed. 

Salmon rissoles are similarly prepared from cold sal- 
mon. 

CROMESQUES OF SWEETBREADS. 

Blanch two throat sweetbreads; skin and cut them up 
into dice, with some cooked ox tongue and a few 
truffles; put this into some reduced white sauce; season 
to taste; let it cool on the ice; roll them into oblong 
pieces about the size of a croquette; wrap each one 
carefully in a piece of pig's caul; dip in batter, 
fry, drain, and serve on a napkin with fried parsley. 

A great variety of these can be made. 

EGG RISSOLES. 
Poach ten eggs and place them delicately on the 
back of a fine hair sieve; when cold, stamp off the su- 
perfluous white with a round cutter; season and enclose 



SAVORY FKITTERS, RISSOLES, ETC. 139 

them carefully in the paste, and finish as usual, using 
bread crumbs instead of vermicelli. 

GROUSE RISSOLES. 

Cut the breasts of three cold roast grouse into dice 
using the backs to flavor some brown sauce, by making 
a strong essence of them; reduce the sauce; add the 
mince to it; cool and finish. 

Pheasant and Partridge rissoles are prepared in a similar 
manner. 

LEVERET RISSOLES. 

Cut up into small dice the fillets of a tender roast 
leveret; put into a good brown sauce, reduced with a 
ittle red currant jelly and port wine; finish. 

LITTLE DEVILS. 

Make a petit choux, adding ^ ft) grated Parmesan 
cheese seasoned very highly; spread on a buttered sheet; 
when cold, stamp out with a round cutter, egg and bread- 
crumb; fry in hot lard, drain and dish on a napkin; 
sprinkle with Parmesan and serve. 

LOBSTER RISSOLES. 
Cut a lobster up into small dice, and mix with white 
sauce, reduced with a little of the spawn and a very 
little anchovy sauce: when finished and dished, stick a 
piece of the horn into each, before serving. 

MUTTON RISSOLES. 

Cut some small dice of cold loin of mutton and a 
couple of eggs boiled hard; mix this with white sauce, 
reduced, season and finish. 

Pork Eissoles are made as above, omitting the eggs, 
and adding a little of the stuffing. 



140 SAVOIiY FRITTERS, RISSOLES, ETC. 

OYSTER FRITTERS. 
Remove the beards from 4 doz. large oysters; lay. them 
on a sieve; throw them into fritter batter; pick them out 
one by one; fry in Lot lard; drain and serve on a napkin, 
with a dust of salt and cayenne. 

OYSTER RISSOLES. 

Blanch and beard 4 doz, oysters; put them into a 
strongly reduced white sauce; season to taste and finish 
as usual. 

RUSSIAN FRITTERS. 

Mix six very thin pancakes (see chapter XII. pt. 2, Eng- 
lish pancakes), seasoned with pepper, salt and choppe(J 
parsley; make a good salpicon of sweetbreads, mush- 
room, tongue and truffle, chopped and put into reduced 
white sauce; put this on the ice to cool, and spread each 
of the pancakes with it; roll and cut them into 1^ inch 
lengths; dip into fritter batter and fry in hot lard. 

SALPICON RISSOLES. 

Cut into dice some prepared mushroons, truffles, 
sweetbread, and tongue; put them into some reduced 
white sauce and finish. 

TENDRON FRITTERS. 
Mask cold tendrons with cold reduced white sauce; dip 
them in fritter batter; fry, etc. 

TURBOT FRITTERS. 

Cut some scallops of cold turbot; marinade them in 
oil, vinegar, salt, pepper and chopped parsley, for four 
hours; pick them out of this; dip into batter; fry etc. 



I 



SAVOKY FRITTERS, RISSOLES, ETC. 141 

TURBOT RISSOLES. 

Cut some cold turbot and a little lobster into dice; mis. 
with white sauce reduced to taste; finish. 
TURKEY RISSOLES. 

Cut some of the breast of a cold roast turkey, with a 
little of the (chestnut) stuffing, into dice; have ready 
some reduced white sauce; mix carefully together and 
finish. 

VEAL RISSOLES. 

Cut small dice from a cold roast fillet of veal; mix this 
with some white sauce, reduced, adding a little chopped 
mushrooms; finish as usual. 

TENSION RISSOLES. 

Cut up into small dice cold roast vension, adding little 
of the fat; mix with brown sauce, reduced, with little red 
currant jelly and 1 oz. glaze; season and finish. 
WHITING RISSOLES. 

Set four fillets of whiting in the oven on a buttered 
baking sheet; season the fillets with pepper, salt chopped 
parsley, and the juice of a lemon; mince the whole fine 
with the essence, and add to it a little white sauce thick- 
ened with four yolks of eggs; finish as usual. 

Sole rissoles are made in the same way. 



CHAPTEE XIII. 
BOUDINS. 

(For Boudin Moulds, see Peart 2, Chap. 1). 

BEEF PALATES, BOUDINS. 
Boil two palates of beef for foui- or five hours until 
done; skin, press, and when cold cut them out with i in 
circular cutter; put them into a reduced brown sauce, 
with a few slices of mushroons; line a boudin mould with 
quenelle, put the mixture in the middle, cover in with 
quenelle, and steam ; serve with Bohemian sauce. 

BEEF PALATES' BOUDINS (Small). 

Cut the palates of beef, dressed as above, in small dice; 
put them into reduced white sauce; let this cool; line 
eight dariole moulds with quenelle; fill the centre with 
the mixture; cover in with quenelle; steam and serve with 
Bohemian sauce. 

CALYES' TAIL BOUDINS (White). 
Cut two calves tails into joints; stew them until tender; 
remove the bone from the best pieces; put the meat into 
reduced Bechamel sauce, flavored with basil; line a 
boudin mould with quenelle, fill with the mixture; cover 
in with the quenelle; steam and serve witli white sauce. 

CALVES TAIL BOUDINS (Brown). 
Proceed as for Calves' tail Boudin (white), substitut- 



BOUDINS. 143 

ing reduced brown sauce for bechamel; and serve with 
half-glaze. 

CAEDINAL LOBSTER BOUDINS. 
Shell and chop up a lobster very finely; pound it in a 
mortar, adding by degrees towards the last its weight of 
double cream; add enough lobster spawn to color, and 
one egg; season and pass through a wire sieve; fill the 
boudin mould; steam and serve with Cardinal sauce. 

COD BOUDINS. 
Proceed as for Turbot boudins, 

CHICAGO BOUDINS. 

Make a quenelle as for pheasant boudin, using pheas- 
ants, partridges or grouse etc.; roll it with a little flour 
into balls about the size of croquettes; roll them in egg, 
and then into chopped truffle; blanch in stock; dish in a 
circle, and centre with mushroous and white sauce er- 
duced; pour white sauce round. 

D'UXELLES BOUDINS. 

Make a rabbit quenelle, roll it out with a little flour 
into the form of a roll-pudding; poach it in consomme; 
when cold, mask it with D'A'ixelles sauce; then egg and 
bread-crumb it; fry in hot lard and serve with half- 
glaze. 

Veal may be substituted in place of rabbit. 

EEL BOUDINS. 
Line the boudin mould with with a quenelle of whit- 
ing or other fish; fill the center with some pieces of eel, 
dressed and thrown into some reduced Steward's sauce, 
and the yolks of 2 eggs; cover with quenelle; steam and 
serve with tata cold sauce. 



144 BOUDINS. 



FOIES GRAS BOUDINS. 

Cut l{ lbs, calf's liver, ^ lb. fat bacon, ^ ib. lean ham, 
into dice; put into a good sized stewpan with two spoon- 
fuls of tine herbs; sweat it at the corner of the stove for 
1| hours, stirring occasionally; season with pepper, salt, 
and a little hei-bacious mixture; pound in a mortar with 
1 gill double cream and 5 yolks of eggs; pass through 
a sieve; fill a bondin mould; steam, and serve with half- 
glaze. 

FOIES GRAS BOUDINS (Nouille). 
Make and blanch some nouille paste in the form oi 
rings; stick these all round the inside of a boudin 
mould; carefully line the mould with foiesgras, as above, 
so as not to disturb the rings; fill in with nouilles 
blanched in strips, and put into reduced brown sauce; 
fill in with the forcemeat; steam, and serve with half- 
glaze. 

FOWL BOUDINS A LA LUCULLUS. 

With all the meaty part of a fowl, prepare some veal 
forcemeat, and when finished, incorporate therewith two 
spoonsful of puree of mushrooms, and use this to form 
some quenelles with tablespoons, filling the centre of 
each quenelle with small pellets of puree truffles; the 
quenelles are to poached in the usual way in boiling 
water, and when done, are to be drained, and dished np 
in a croustade: some white sauce is to be poured over 
the quenelles, and a border of truffles placed around the 
base. 

FRENCH BOUDINS (1). 

Make some quenelle; divide it into two equal parts; 
roll them up with a mixture of minced sweetbread, 



BOUDINS. 145 



tongue, truffles aud mushrooms, tbrowu into reduced 
white sauce and cold salpicon, in the centre; poach 
them in stock; when cold, egg and bread-crumb them; 
fry in hot lard; drain, and serve with half-glaze. 

FRENCH BOUDINS (2). 
Make the bonding as above, with the exception of 
using partridge or chicken quenelle, aud forming them 
in the shape of birds; cut the necks, heads, wings and 
tails in bread, which fry in butter; and when the pud- 
dings are fried and dished, stick the necessary orna- 
ments in their respective places. 

GROUSE BOUDINS. 

Ornament a boudin mould with truffles; line with a 
quenelle of fillets of grouse, fill with a financiere mixture 
of cock's combs cooked, prepared mushrooms, and truf- 
fles, thrown into reduced white sauce; fill over with 
quenelle; steam, and serve with grouse sauce. 

GROUSE BOUDINS A LA STANLEY. 

Prepare some forcemeat with a couple of grouse, re- 
serving the carcasses to make sauce. Finish the force- 
meat by incorporating therewith two spoonsful of stiffly 
reduced sauce; form the boudins with two tablespoons, in- 
troducing small pellets of croquette preparation of truffle, 
tongue and mushroom, seasoned with chopped chives; 
when the boudins have been poached, drained, and be- 
come cold, they are to be masked over with some game 
sauce, finished with three yolks of eggs, egged, crumbed 
and fried in hot lard ; they are then to be dished up with 
a ragout of artichoke bottoms, and the remains of the 
sauce is to be poured round the base. 

10 



146 BOUDINS. 

LEVERET BOUDINS (1). 
Make a quenelle of fillets of three leverets; coat the 
interior of the mould all over with chopped truffles; 
steam, and serve with venison sauce. 

LEVERET BOUDINS (2). 
Decorate the bottoms of some dairole moulds with a 
large ring of boiled white of egg, the interior of the ring 
filled in with a round of truffle; fill with leveret que- 
nelle; steam, and serve with venison sauce. 

MUSHROOM BOUDINS (1). 
Make a boudiu of veal quenelle, filling the centre 
with prepared mushrooms thrown into reduced brown 
sauce; cover in with quenelle; steam, and serve with 
truffle sauce, with chopped mushrooms in it. 

MUSHROOM BOUDINS (2). 
Fill some dariole moulds, buttered as usual, with 
quenelle, to which 2 doz. prepared mushrooms, first 
chopped, have been added ; steam, and serve with truffle 
sauce, and a neat button mushroom ou top of each. 

NORMANDE BOUDINS (1). 
Line the boudin mould with whiting quenelle, and fill 
with the following mixture: 1 doz. mussels scalded, ^ 
doz. button onions cooked, ^ doz. prepared mushrooms, 
and 1 doz. oysters bearded and cooked; mixing all to- 
gether in reduced white sauce; cover in with quenelle; 
steam, and serve with Dutch sauce. 

NORMANDE BOUDINS (2). 
Fill eight buttered dariole moulds with whiting quenelle ; 
steam, and dish them in a circle on the dish; centre 



BOUDINS. 14'3 



with the above Normande mixture, and serve with 
with Dutch sauce. 

NORMANDE BOITDINS OF SOLES— SMALL. 
Prepare a quenelle of soles; line the boudin mould 
with this; fill the centre with prepared mushrooms, 
oysters, truffles, and a few button onions, all well fin- 
ished, and put into reduced white sauce; cover in with 
quenelle; steam, and serve with Steward's sauce. 

NORMANDE BOUDINS OF SOLIVS. 
Fill eight dariole moulds with quenelle of soles; steam 
and dish them in a circle; centre with the Normande 
mixture, and serve with Steward's sauce. 

PARTRIDGE BOUDINS. 
Make some quenelles of fillets of partridges, adding 
two tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, fill the boudin mould 
and serve with brown sauce. 

PHEASANT BOUDINS. 
Line a boudin mould with a quenelle of fillets of 
pheasants; centre with a financiere mixture as for grouse 
boudins; fill in with a quenelle; steam, and serve with 
half-glaze. 

PHEASANT BOUDINS A LA RICHELIEU. 

Take a cold pheasant and pick the meat from it; re- 
move the skin and sinews, and pound the flesh in the 
mortar to a smooth paste. Mix its weight with the same 
quantity of potatoes or panada and six ounces of fresh 
butter. Mix these thoroughly, pound them together, 
and season highly with salt, cayenne, and a trifle of 
mace. Bind together with the yolks of four eggs, one at 
a time, two tablespoonfuls of white sauce, and, last of 



148 BOUDINS. 



all, two tablespoonfuls of boiled onions, chopped small. 
Spread this mixture out on a dish and make it up into 
small cutlets, about 3 in. long, 2 in. wide, and ^ in. thick. 
Drop these carefully into very hot water and poach 
them gently for a few minutes. The water must not 
boil. Take them up, drain, and let them get cold; then 
egg and breadcumb them, and fry them in hot butter a 
nice pale color. Make a gravy by peeling and frying 
four onions in butter till lightly browned, dredge an 
ounce of flour over them, and pour upon them half-a 
pint of stock, a glassful of claret, the bones of the pheas- 
ant, and pepper and salt. Simmer over fire for twenty 
minutes, strain through sieve, and it is ready for use. 
Serve the boudins in a circle with the gravy round. 

PIG'S FEET BOUDINS. 
Line a boudin mould with quenelle, and fill up with 
two pigs feet, boned, cooked, cut into convenient pieces, 
and thrown into a reduced white sauce, and a little par- 
sley chopped fine; cover in with quenelle; steam and 
serve with Steward's sauce. 

POTATO BOUDINS. 
Prepare some potatoes (see mashed potato pudding); 
line the boudin mould with it; fill in with macedoine 
vegetables mixed with reduced white sauce; cover in 
with potato; make it hot in the hot closet; turn out on its 
dish, and serve with Steward's sauce. 

QUEEN'S BOUDINS (1). 

Make a quenelle of about J doz. rabbits, using the 

fillets only, adding two tablespoonsful of white sauce; 

line the mould with the quenelle, and put in the 

centre, prepared mushrooms chopped and boiled up in 



BOUDINS. 149 



a reduced white sauce; cover in with a layer of quenelle; 
steam, and serve with white sauce. 

This is also made with a quenelle of fillets of chick- 
en ; serve with supreme sauce. 

QUEEN'S BOUDINS (2). 
Butter eight dariole moulds; fill with chicken quen- 
elle, and steam; when dished mask with supreme sauce, 
and place a round truffle on the top of each. 

RICHELIEU BOUDINS. 

Ornament a plain boudin mould, prepared as usual, 
with truffles cut fancifully; line the mould carefully with 
veal quenelle; three parts fill with the following mixture: 
put into reduced white sauce, some prepared mushrooms, 
truffles, cooked sweetbreads, and tongue, cut into rather 
large dice; cover in with a layer of the quenelle; paper 
and steam; serve with supreme sauce. 

This may also be made with a quenelle of fillet of 
rabbit; serve with half-glaze. 

SALMON BOUDINS (1). 
Fill a boudin mould with salmon quenelle made with 
raw or cooked salmon; steam and turn out on a bed of 
tata sauce, in a cold dish; serve immediately. 

SALMON BOUDINS (2). 
Fill ten dariole moulds with solmon quenelle ; steam 
and turn them out on a plate; mask them with Cardinal 
sauce, thickened with 2 yolks of eggs; di&h them on a bed 
of tata sauce, in a cold dish. 

SALMON BOUDINS— ITALIAN. 
Pound some cooked salmon, mixing in by degrees its 
weight of double cream j season and color as for lobster 



150 BOTTDINS. 



boadins; add 3 yolks of eggs; and pass the whole 
through a wire sieve; fill a boudiu mould; steam and 
serve with Cardinal sauce. 

SUPREME BOUDINS. 
Make a delicate quenelle of fillets of chicken, with 
which line the buttered and papered boudin mould ; cut 
some slices from the middle of a cooked ox tongue, and 
build them up against the quenelle, thus leaving an in- 
terior coating of tongue: — fill the centre with scallops 
of chicken and truffles, tossed up in reduced white 
sauce, cover in with a layer of quenelle, and paper and 
steam; serve with supreme sauce. 

TRUFFLE BOUDINS. 
Make a veal or other quenelle, mix with it J lb truffles 
chopped very fine, line the boudin mould with this; cut 
eight truffles into slices, and mix them with a reduced 
brown sauce; fill with this; cover in with quenelle, steam 
and serve with truffle sauce. 

TURBOT BOUDINS. 

Fill a boudin mould with a quenelle of cooked turbot, 
suitably seasoned, steam and serve with Dutch sauce. 

Small Turbot Boudins are made as above, in dariole 
moulds. 

TURKEY BOUDINS (1). 
Line a mould with quenelle made from the fillets of a 
a small turkey; fill with a dozen or more chestnuts, 
peeled and boiled in stock, and put into reduced brown 
sauce; cover in with quenelle; steam and serve with 
chestnut sauce. 



BOUDINS. 161 



TUKKEY BOUDINS (2). 
Fill some dariole moalds with tarkey quenelles, as 
above, introducing in each a tine chestnut, also prepared; 
steam and serve with chestnut sauce. 

VENISON BOUDINS (1). 
Chop, pound and pass some lean venison, mixing in 
by degrees, its weight of double cream, one whole egg 
and one yolk; season well; steam in the boudin mould, 
and serve with venison sauce. 

VENISON BOUDINS (2). 
Steam the above quenelle in dariole moulds, laying a 
round of the venison fat at the bottom of each; serve 
with venison sauce. 

VERMICELLI BOUDINS. 
Put on the fire 1 pt. of milk with a pat of butter and a 
pinch of salt; when boiling, stir in enough broken vermi- 
celli to form a stiflf paste; set it at the corner of the stove 
for a few minutes, and fill in 8 or 10 buttered dariole 
moulds with it; when cold, turn them out; scoop out the 
centre; warm the boudins in the hot closet just before 
serving, and fill with a hot salpicon of truffles, tongue, 
sweetbreads, etc., cut into dice and mixed with reduced 
white sauce; manage to turn them over into their dish, 
and serve with Bohemian sauce. 

WRITING BOUDINS. 
Make a quenelle of whiting, with which line the boudin 
mould; fill the centre with a small lobster chopped up 
fine, and mixed with a little white sauce, reduced with 
some live lobster spawn passed through a sieve; mask 
over with quenelle; steam and turn on to its dish; serve 
with Cardinal sauce. 



CHAPTER Xiy. 
Savory Souffles — Fondues. 

(MAYONAISE SOUFFLES.) 
Small Souffles may be made of any the following mix- 
tures exactly as the larger ones, except they are baked 
in crimped paper cases, (sold for the purpose) in place 
of the Souffle lining. Where any special directions are 
needed for these small Souffles, they are noticed under 
each recipe. For Souffle cases, see Part 2, Chap. 1. 

CHEESE SOUFFLE (Fondue) (1). 

Moisten J lb. flour with ^ pt. milk, the same of cream, 
and I lb. butter, stir over the fire until it forms a paste, 
remove and add 8 yolks of eggs, \ lb. Parmesan cheese, 
and season to taste; beat up the whites stifif, pour into 
souffle lining, and bake 30 or 40 minutes, serve with Par- 
mesan sprinkled on top. 

Place upon the small fondues a small square of gruyere 
cheese, bake as usual. 

CHEESE SOUFFLE (Fondue) (2). 
Put into a stewpan | pt. milk, \ lb. butter, and 5 ozs. 
flour, work this over the fire to a smooth paste, remove 
and add 3 ozs, Parmesan cheese, 2 ozs. gruyere, cut into 
small dice, season to taste, add 8 yolks of eggs, and at , 
the last the whites beat stiif; bake in a souffle lining 
about ^ hour. 

CHICKEN SOUFFLE. 
Take the breast and white parts of a cooked fowl'; 



SAVORY SOUFFLES -FONDUES. 153 

chop it very line, pound it in a mortar with three spoons- 
ful of reduced white sauce, and the same of double 
cream, 2 ozs. butter, salt and pepper; mix with the yolks 
of ^ doz. eggs; rub the whole through a sieve; beat five 
white of eggs stiff, mix gently together; bake in souffle 
case 20 minutes, 

GARIBALDI SOUFFLE (Fondue). 
Mix lightly in at the last some boiled macaroni cut in 
strips, vermicelli, or Indian paste, to cheese Fondue 
(2) mixture, just before placing it in the lining. For 
the small fondues, cut the macaroni into very small 
pieces, and bake the mixture in paper cases, colored red 
on the outside. 

GROUSE SOUFFLE. 

Pound and sere )n the lean parts of four roast grouse; 
add six spoonsful of brown sauce, one of chopped mush- 
rooms, and one of melted game glaze; season to taste; 
add six yolks of eggs and pass; beat the whites; mix and 
bake. 

LAMB SOUFFLE. 

Take some lean meat from a cold leg of lamb; minoe 
and pound it, adding a little chopped mint, a spoonful 
of sugar, one of vinegar, six of white sauce, | doz yolks 
of eggs; season and pass; beat the whites stiff; mix 
lightly together, and bake. 

LEVERET SOUFFLE. 

Pound the fillets and best pieces of meat of a fine 
cooked leveret; add 4 spoonsful oi brown sauce, one of 
red current jelly, and I doz. yolks of eggs; season and 
pass; add the beat whites of five eggs and bake. 



154 SAVORY SOUFFLES— FONDUES. 



LOBSTER SOUFFLE. 

Shell and chop two lobsters up fine, adding six spoons- 
ful of Cardinal sauce, a little essence of anchovy, and ^ 
dpz. yolks of eggs; season; pass; mix with the whites, 
beat, and bake. 

Small souffles are served with a piece of lobster on the 
top of each. 

MAYONAISE ANCHOVY SOUFFLE. 

Boil ^ doz. eggs hard; chop them up and mix with the 
fillets of 2 doz. anchovies cut into small pieces; proceed 
with this in alternate layers as for mayonaise chicken 
souflfle, flavoring the mayonaise with a little of the es- 
sence of anchovy. 

MAYONAISE CAULIFLOWER SOUFFLE. 

Boil the flowerets of two good cauliflowers: drain, and 
when cold, marinade, and proceed as for mayonaise 
chicken souffle. 

MAYONAISE CHICKEN SOUFFLE. 

Boil a chicken until tender; remove the bone; let it 
cool; take the best pieces, mince them up, and put into 
a dish, and well marinade with oil, vinegar, pepper and 
salt; whip up some good (but not too stiff) aspic. Put a 
layer of the whipt aspic at the bottom of a souffle lining; 
put a thin layer of mayonaise (see tata cold sauce) over 
the w^ipt aspic, and over this a layer of the minced 
chicken, seasoning each layer with white pepper, salt and 
Tarragon vinegar; proceed thus in alternate layers until 
about three inches above the edge of the souffle lining, 
finishing with the whipt aspic; set in the refrigerator un- 
til required. When about to serve, remove the paper, 



SAVORY SOUFFLES— FONDUES. 155 

place the lining on the silver souffle-case, sprinkle the 
top with fried bread crumbs (cold), and serve with 
a plate of chopped aspic, to hand round. 

Grouse, Partridge, Pheasiant, etc., raayouaise souffles are 
made in a similar manner, using the fillets of each. So 
also mayonaise souffles of salmon or lobster. 

MAYONAISE CRAB SOUFFXE. 
Proceed and finish as for mayonaise chicken souffle, 
with the exception of placing the eatable part of the 
crab altogether in the centre of the souffle in a bed of 
mayonaise, instead of alternate layers of it. 

MAYONAISE CUCUMBER SOUFFLE. 
Peel and slice two cucumbers very thin; marinade in 
oil, vinegar, pepper and salt, and proceed as for mayo- 
naise chicken souffle, in alternate layers, with the ex- 
ception of mincing up the cucumber. 

MAYONAISE EGG SOUFFLE. 

Boil ten eggs hard; when cold, cut them across into 
rather thin slices; marinade and proceed as for mayon- 
aise chicken souffle. If Plovers etc. eggs are used, cut 
them in two lengthways, but do not marinade. 

MAYONAISE GREEN PEAS SOUFFLE. 
Boil 1 qt. green peas until tender; when cold proceed 
as for mayonaise chicken souffle. 

MAYONAISE ITALIAN SOUFFLE. 
Take the breast of a boiled chicken and cut it into 
strips; mix with it half the quantity of cooked ox-tongue 
and a third of olives cut in the same manner; let this lay 
in a marinade of vinegar, pepper and salt for ten hours; 
proceed as for mayonaise chicken souffle. 



156 SAVORY SOUFFL.es- FONDUES. 

MAYONAISE LETTUCE SOUFFLE. 

Prepare and shred up very fine the best parts of eight 
lettuces; marinade and finish in alternate layers as for 
mayonaise chicken souffle. 

MIYONAISE MACEDOINE SOUFFLE. 
Open and drain a canister of macedoine vegetables; 
steep in a marinade of oil, vinegar, pepper and salt, for 
two hours, and proceed as for mayonaise chicken souf- 
fle, with the exception of placing the vegetables in the 
centre of the souffle dish in a bed of mayonaise. 

MAYONAISE OYSTER SOUFFLE. 
Blanch and beard 6 doz. oysters; proceed as for may- 
onaise chicken souffle, placing the oysters in alternate 
layers, but do not marinade or cut them up. 

MAYONAISE POTATO SOUFFLE. 
Chop up five cold potatoes and two cooked beetroots, 
not too fine, marinade these for two hours in oil, vin- 
egar, pepper, salt and chopped parsley; proceed with 
alternate layers as for mayonaise chicken souffle. 

MAYONAISE RABBIT SOUFFLE. 

Fillet four rabbits, flatten and saute the fillets in a cut- 
let pan with a pat of butter; marinade, and proceed as 
for mayonaise chicken souffle. 

MAYONAISE SMALL SALAD SOUFFLE. 

Wash and dry in a cloth a punnet of small salad, with 
which proceed in alternate layers as for mayonaise 
chicken souffle. 



SAVORY SOUFFLES — FONDUES. 157 



MAYONAISE SPINICH SOUFFLE. 
Cook a large dish of spinach, season and flavor well, 
flatten it out on a dish to cool, and proceed as for may- 
onaise chicken souffle, with the exception of mixing the 
spinach with the mayonaise, instead of alternate layers 
of it. 

MAYONAISE SOLE AND PRAWN SOUFFLE. 

Proceed with the fillets of two soles as for mayonaise 
whiting souffle, adding 3 doz. prepared prawns, whole. 

MAYONAISE TURBOT SOUFFLE. 
Proceed with | ft) of cooked turbot as for mayonaise 
chicken souffle, seasoning with elder instead of tar- 
ragon vinegar. 

MAYONAISE WHITING SOUFFLE. 
Fillet four whitings, set them in the oven on a baking 
sheet, with some butter, white pepper, salt and lemon 
juice; proceed as for mayonaise chicken souffle, adding 
some chopped parsley. 

MUTTON SOUFFLE. 
Proceed with 1 ft> lean cold mutton, as for vension 
•souffle. For small souffles, introduce a thin piece of 
fat on the top of each. 

NOUKLES OF PARMESAN. 
Make a petit chou, seasoned with salt, cayenne, and a 
little mustard; make into balls and and blanch for about 
ten minutes or so in boiling water, strain and place them 
lightly in a souffle lining, with alternate layers of Par- 
mesan cheese grated, half fill the lining with good con- 



158 SAVORY SOUFFLES— FONDUES. 

somme; bake | hours and serve with sprinkled Parme- 
san cheese. 

PARTRIDGE SOUFFLE. 

Proceed as for pheasant soufHe, adding a spoonful of 
chopped truffles. 

Sfnall souffles are served by sticking one of the feet, 
cleaned and blanched, on each souffle. 

PHEASANT SOUFFLE. 

Pound the lean part of a fine pheasant with two table- 
spoonsful of chopped dressed ham, three of brown 
sauce, three of double cream, one of melted game glaze, 
seven yolks of eggs; pass, beat, and add the whites beat 
stiff; bake. 

PIGEON SOUFFLE. 

Pound the fillets of four pigeons that have been pre- 
viously served; add four spoonsful of brown sauce and 
four yolks of eggs; season to taste and pass; beat the 
whites, mix and bake. 

PLOVER SOUFFLE. 

Proceed as for pigeon souffle, serving with fried bread 
crumbs on the top. 

PRAWN SOUFFLE. 

Prepare about 6 or 8 doz. prawns, and proceed as for 
lobster souffle. The smaU. souffles are served with a 
small prawn on the top of each. 

RABBIT SOUFFLE. 

Remove the meat from two tine boiled rabbits; mince 
and pound it, adding about five spoonsful of double 



SAVORY SOUFFLES — FONDUES. 159 

cream, a pat of butter, and five yolks of eggs; season to 
taste; pass; add the whites beat stiff; mix and bake. 

SALMON SOUFFLE. 

Pound 1 ft) cooked salmon with three spoonsfial of 
white sauce, three of whipt cream, and a little essence of 
shrimps; season to taste; add ^ doz. yolks of eggs; pass; 
mix with the whites beat stiff, and bake. The smal/ 
souffles are served with tata cold sauce in a boat. 

SOLE SOUFFLE. 

Proceed as for Whiting souffle with the fillet of three 
soles. 

SHAKESPEARE SOUFFLE. 

Mix ^ pt. whipt cream with 6 ozs. Parmesan cheese; 
stir gently into this the yolks of seven eggs; mix lightly 
in the seven whites beat firm; season well; pour into a 
souffle lining; bake 10 or 12 minutes, and serve immedi- 
ately. 

TURBOT SOUFFLE. 

Take 1 lb cold turbot; chop and pound it, adding two 
spoonsful of elder wine, a little grated horseradish, three 
spoonsful of white sauce, three of double cream, and the 
yolks of seven eggs; pass; mix in the whites beat sti£f, and 
bake. The small souffles are served with grated horse- 
radish on the top of each. 

VEAL SOUFFLE. 

Take about 1 ft> of cold fillet of veal, mince and pound 
it with a little of the stufiiing, adding six spoonsful of 
reduced white sauce, and two of double cream; season to 
taste ; add ^ doz. yolks of eggs and a little grated ham ; 



160 SAVORY SOUFFLES— FONDUES. 

pass througli a sieve; beat up; mix the whites in lightly, 
and bake in souffle lining 20 or 30 minutes. 

Small Souffles of Veal. — Put a small quantity of above 
mixture into each of eight or ten crimped paper cases; 
put to this two or three pieces of the veal stuffing cut in 
dice; fill up with the mixture and bake. 

TENSION SOUFFLE. 
Take 1 lb. of the lean part of a cold haunch of ven- 
ison and proceed as for leveret souffle, adding 2 ozs. 
melted butter, and introducing about 2 ozs. of the fat, 
cut thin, during the process of filling the souffle lining. 
Before baking small souffles of venison, place on the top 
of each a thin piece of the fat, cut with a round cutter. 

WHITING SOUFFLE. 

Fillet and set in the oven three whitings; chop and 
pound them with six spoonsful of double cream and a 
pat of butter, season to taste, add ^ doz. yolks of eggs; 
pass and add the beat whites; bake. 

WOODCOCK SOUFFLE. 
Pound the best part of some cold woodcocks, add six 
spoonsful of double cream, season to taste, add eight 
yolks of eggs, pass through a sieve, beat the whites; mix 
and bake. 



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